Posts: 43
Joined: 12/6/2006 From: Leawood, KS, USA Status: offline
Dave, Be careful of Aileron size. The 190 used a frieze type aileron. As such, the bottom side of the aileron was significantly larger than the top side. I noticed the enlargement you made was for the bottom side of the wing. The hinge line was place well back of the leading edge on the bottom. When up aileron was given, the leading edge on the underside of the wing depressed into the wind stream, acting like an airbreak and thus preventing adverse yaw during a turn. I attached a photo of a 190 wing without its aileron. You can clearly see the pocket in the wing for the aileron was much deeper for the lower side of the wing vs the upper side. You probably already know this, but just in case........
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Rob Johnson "....I've been shot at, I've been shot up, but I havn't been shot down...."
Posts: 43
Joined: 12/6/2006 From: Leawood, KS, USA Status: offline
Dave, I'll be glad to show you how I set mine up. In fact I was going to take some pics yesterday, but my camera batteries were dead. They are recharging now, so when I get out of work this evening, I'll post to this thread.
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Rob Johnson "....I've been shot at, I've been shot up, but I havn't been shot down...."
Posts: 43
Joined: 12/6/2006 From: Leawood, KS, USA Status: offline
Dave, Here are the pictures I promised. Just a little background on the plane I am rebuilding (bashing). Its a 1/6.5 scale Dora 9. Don't worry about the fact that its a Dora 9. Both the 190A and the 190D had identical wings. I picked up the plane in a swap meet. Its a Czech kit (I know this by the instructions that came with it) that employs a foam wing. The 'bashing' that I did can be used on either a foam or build up wing. In fact, I think it is likely easier on a built up wing. Anyway, the kit is a standoff scale that has lines that are close to scale so, I decided to really scale it up. I have a 1/5th Holman 190A that I plan on building later, so I wanted to see if I could develop the building techniques necessary to make it 100% scale. Although having stated that, if you can make the CMP 190 pretty close to scale, I might give that a shot next. BTW - I am pretty impressed with the mods you make so far to your fuse. If I can help you a little bit with the details, the that might be my next plane.
OK, For the wing, I decided to install flaps (which the kit didn't have) and remake the ailerons 100% scale. (I am not going to describe how I did the flaps, but I can later if you are interested). The model had ailerons whos spans were too long and they did not extend to the wing tip as they should. So, the first order of business was to layout the flap and aileron outline on the bottom of the wing. I had to add an inch or so to the flaps, reducing the aileron outline accordingly. I drew the outline on the bottom, then cut out the bottom skin and removed all the foam in the pertinent areas. I created a bay to house the aileron and flap servos at a somewhat scale location (the original wing had a large hatch for access to the outboard 20mm cannon). Rather than using robard hinge points, I decided to make my own hinges to better simulate the original. The portion that is fixed in the wing are a sandwich of 2 pieces of 1/8th inch balsa with a flight skin core. The ailerons portion is actually a tube that houses a thin piano wire rod that runs the length of the aileron. This permits me to take the ailerons off very, very easily. It also makes for a very precise fit and allows the ailerons to rotate with virtually no binding. I have been playing around with flightskin and used it to build the ailerons...kind of an experiment. You can just as easily use balsa. I decided not to cover the ailerons with fabric. I find it easier to make them out of hard material (flightskin) to better simulate the scale details later. Her are some overview pics (please excuse the poor quality of the pics. My camera didn't quite survive a house fire I had last year).
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Rob Johnson "....I've been shot at, I've been shot up, but I havn't been shot down...."
Posts: 43
Joined: 12/6/2006 From: Leawood, KS, USA Status: offline
Here are the hinges. As I mentioned, they are make of a sandwich of 1/8th balsa - flight skin (or G10) - 1/8th balsa. They go a couple of inches into the wing and were glued in with epoxy. They have rounded ends for proper clearance of the aileron. A couple of things to note. First, I rough shaped the hinges, the drilled the holes for the piano wire. I inserted the hinges into the wing with the piano wire in them to test the fit and make sure the hinge line lined-up correctly. Some fine sanding was required. I then epoxied them in place.
< Message edited by Jagdfleiger -- 6/20/2007 4:41:30 PM >
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Rob Johnson "....I've been shot at, I've been shot up, but I havn't been shot down...."
Posts: 43
Joined: 12/6/2006 From: Leawood, KS, USA Status: offline
Next, the construction of the aileron. I started by cutting out the bottom part of the aileron from flightskin. It extends the full cord of the aileron, so I simply used my blown-up 3 view diagram as a guide. You could so this just as easy using balsa. I then glued a piece of 3/32 balsa on the forward edge of the aileron. In back of that I glued on a portion of the original aileron (its the green looking thing in the photos) so as to give me the exact angle of the aileron from trailing edge to the hinge line. I then glued the piano wire guide (Full length) to the onto the 3/32nd balsa piece where I wanted the hinge line to fall. Next, I marked the location of the hinges coming from the wing. I cut into both the aileron and the piano wire guide using a jig saw. If everything is done correctly, you can now check the fit of aileron by placing in the wing and inserting the piano wire. All of this is actually alot easier to do than to describe. Once that was done, I used balsa on top for the front portion of the aileron (for shaping) and flight skin for the back portion of the aileron. I also installed the pushrod attachment in the scale location and use hardware that looks pretty close to the original. This was a bit of work, but I like the end product.
< Message edited by Jagdfleiger -- 6/20/2007 5:00:23 PM >
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Rob Johnson "....I've been shot at, I've been shot up, but I havn't been shot down...."
Posts: 43
Joined: 12/6/2006 From: Leawood, KS, USA Status: offline
Just a couple of notes about the servo bays. Each bay houses 2 servos; one for the aileron and one for the flap. I installed standard size servos for these. However, things were very tight and hard to work in. So, I changed my approach as follows. I built 1/8th ply frames that hold both servos. The frame is removable with 4 screws. This helps things alot. I am now planning on replacing the standard servos with mini's that have roughly the same torque. This should help greatly with the space problems. I wouldn't expect anyone to try and do all this....again, I wanted to see how far I could go in making everything scale.
Dave, here is what I would recommend. Build the ailerons in a similar fashion to the way I described. You can use robart hinge points - that will make it a bit easier, quicker. Use the aileron servo, linkage arrangement that comes with the model. That will allow you to do the job quickly and come out with a scale looking aileron.
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Rob Johnson "....I've been shot at, I've been shot up, but I havn't been shot down...."
Posts: 970
Joined: 7/16/2003 From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA Status: online
Hey Jagdfleiger,
I was thinking of building the ailerons the same way as the Sist Fw-190 ones are done, but i think i might go a combination of both ( which is what you have in fact suggested).
I have been swamped with work and a whole lot of other stuff that is sucking up all my time but i will get back onto her soon...
Posts: 970
Joined: 7/16/2003 From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA Status: online
Hey guy's
well, had a couple of test pulls done on the canopy plug, and i have to say, what i ifference it makes to the model!!! I'm almost prepared to forgive the other shape inaccuracies Not.
We did 3 pulls of the canopy with the last one beaing the only really useable one. I'm thinking i might to some more slight modifications to it and then i'll call it done!. I have also included a pic of the original canopy for reference. and in the pic's the canopy look really blurry and quite bad, but it not that bad???
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RE: CMPro 71" Fw-190 kitbash - 
