Posts: 987
Joined: 7/16/2003 From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Hey LDM.
Yeah mate, post away!!!!
suffice to say that i have already reinforced the gear area but there is always something more to learn or a new/better way of doing things. I have been trying to get in contact with Lenny at Shindin but he is not responding to my emails anymore??? anyone else having troubles? I would really like to get my hands on the gear if i can because as you can see the fuse is almost complete and all i will have left will be the wing to complete.
thanks
Dave
< Message edited by ticketec -- 7/30/2007 12:15:28 PM >
perfect job.. interesting,.. how can some people remake the classic ARf into a scale - plane.. Nice.. Interesting choice have you done.. i will look at your report.. regards.
Tomas
_____________________________
Fw 190 Dora flies like a dream....hurri too and now i just wait.. how will fly my Ziroli Stuka...
Posts: 987
Joined: 7/16/2003 From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Thanks Moelders,
Starting out with an out of scale ARF ties your hands behind your back a fair bit when it comes to being totally correct scale wise but i'll try and get the best representation of an Fw-190 i can out of her.
Maybe one day i'll have enought time to build a Vally Fw or something like that which is mouch closer to scale to start with. in the mean time the CMpro will do
Posts: 1501
Joined: 9/22/2004 From: El Reno,
OK, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: LDM
great job , I have found an old artical on foam wing/retracts install upgarde if your interested let me know . Great stuff that may cure this planes history of weak retracts installation .
I've tried several methods. sure would like to hear about a better way before redoing mine again. Broke retracts out again this last Sat.
I was almost about to sheet the top on the flap cutout before i cut the aileron off, but the flaps will be of a scale size and they are bigger than the kit sized ones, so i will mark out and remove the "flap area" material before i sheet the top of the wing.
The flap skins themself's will be about 3-4 layers of carbon fiber.
thanks
Dave
< Message edited by ticketec -- 8/4/2007 2:54:16 AM >
Dave sorry been on the road , two quick things one he has responded to me about a p40 questions so check your email address or let us all know we can email him for you 2)i will pull the artical , great info , even with your instalation you can still add stength with part the part on how they add a carbon fiber mesh to the entire area that house the retracts and 2" beyond . I find the info and post
Found the artical, RCM October 2000 , I will try to repeat the info but feel free to PM me and I will fax it to anyone interested on Monday when I get to work. hey just found the web address but remember this is 7 years old so you never know in this hobby but the guy who wrote the article referannces the http://www.arts-hobby.com/EngineeringConsultant he apparently sells all the materials as a kit for this purpose .
Posts: 987
Joined: 7/16/2003 From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
time to attack the last major shape issue i'm going to do on this kit bash, the blisters on the nose cowl.
Pic #1: firstly is start out like i have always done and i wish the kit manufactures would have done, and that is with full sized three views of the blisters, they do stick out a fair way so what the main goal will be is to size them correctly in terms of the side view and position them in their correct location. at this stage,i also covered the cowl with clear packing tape. this allows me to work on the cowl and not damage it. I taped directly above the blister as the cowl is symetrical and this would give me the correct curve without the blister being in the way. a blank canvas if you will.
pic#2: i transfered the correct shape and location of the blister to the tape on the cowl with a permanent marker. for this i jut cut out the blister from the printed side view after placing some clear tape on it firstly, so that the cutout edges would let the marker "ride" along them
pic#3: This techinque i use is an extension of the platt idea, the pink stuff is 2 part automotive body filler, or bog. this is generously placed in the correct location.
Pic#4: after 3-5mins the bog begins to firm up and you can carve it with your hobby knife. this whole process is very time sensitive and you cannot leave it once you start! in another 3-5mins it will become too hard to carve, but hopefully you have roughly the right shape, and you can begin to sand it. the longer you leave it the hard the product becomes. it's still very sandable once fully cured, but why work harder than what you have to
Pic#5: the bog will pop off the tape, but a good property is that it sucks up some of the permanent marker you placed on the tape. perfect way to trasfer the correct shape to the bog!!! I then carve to almost the right outline and then sand the item till i'm happy. in this pic i have finished sanding the blister and have placed it back onto the cowl. this time i CA'd it to the tape.
Pic#6: another great feature of bog, it that you can always ad some more it it's not the right shape, over carved, etc... in this case, i add more to blend the blister back into the cowl.
Pic#7: this is where it's at right now. i coated the finished blister with a release agent then i also polish it with canubra wax as well, and then used about 10 or so layers of glass over the top.
The plan is to use this as a female mold, and i will lay up 2-3 layers of 3-6oz glass for the cowl, and end up with a nice, smooth external surface. it will be setup in such a way so that i can just cut the kit blisters off the cowl using the panel lines as guides and glue my new blisters into place!!! this also makes it really easy if i have to replace them in the future, or if i kitbash another one!!!!
thanks
Dave
< Message edited by ticketec -- 8/8/2007 12:49:44 PM >
Posts: 987
Joined: 7/16/2003 From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Hey EM,
I was wondering the same thing for a while till it dawned on me
It's a bit of backwards and forwarding, but i got there in the end,
pic#1: this is the female mold all cured. you can just make out in the pic that i have attached some plastic strips to the top and bottom of the mold. this is so the when i lay the glass into the mold, i will end up with a "step" in the final piece which should in practice, align with the cutout in the cowl and give me a large area to glue to the cowl and so make a very strong joint. I took measurements for thse and it was a bit of a calculated guess.
pic#2: I removed the original blister along the exsisting panel lines.
Pic#3: this is the new blister. you can see where i have marked the lines were it should sit on the cowl. the front and rear sides will be cut to their final lengths, the top and bottom sides are the set which will be glued to the cowl.
Pic#4, 5, 6: these are the new blister attached. i just need to fill the joint line and they will be done. i will also add a small amount of glass to the front of the blister.
Pic#7: this is a pic i quickly drew to visualy show what i was trying to explain about the "step" in the new blisters top and bottom edges.
The only problem with the new blister is that now i have to make another of the other side
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RE: CMPro 71" Fw-190 kitbash - 
