RE: Shinden Build

RE: Shinden Build
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RE: Shinden Build - 6/5/2008 10:27:49 PM

M A W

Posts: 39
Joined: 6/3/2008
From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

Hi Kevin,

Thank you, I will take a look on Bolly's site.

I'm still waiting for the plane to be delivered, but at least I can do some research in the meantime.

Thanks again,

Mark.

(in reply to elan120)

Post #: 151

RE: Shinden Build - 6/5/2008 10:55:18 PM

can773

Posts: 1655
Joined: 1/25/2002
From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
Status: online

Hi Mark

The regular 30-10 is marginal on a plane of that size. I flew it on my Twister which is pretty much at 5kg, and more close in size to the Shinden. You can do it but again, its not the best. If you were flying Intermediate or Advanced I think you would be satisfied, if you are flying Masters or FAI I think you will want the Evo.

Either motor, a 21x14 is a good starting point. The Evo is a little hotter motor, so it also likes props like the 20x15, 20.5x14.

If you go with the regular 30-10 you can save some weight with controller, it needs only a 60A esc, with the Evo you need to bump up to an 80A.

< Message edited by can773 -- 6/5/2008 10:56:24 PM >

_____________________________

Chad Northeast

(in reply to M A W)

Post #: 152

RE: Shinden Build - 6/6/2008 1:08:17 AM

flyncajun

Posts: 120
Joined: 12/25/2006
From: DENHAM SPRINGS , LA, USA
Status: offline

Hi Mola
those weight are weights from around the second batch
my last kit 06 -07 was 6 onces lighter total
however you should have no problem building it for 10.75 pounds
let us know how it flys
Bryan

(in reply to mola)

Post #: 153

RE: Shinden Build - 6/6/2008 7:36:08 AM

M A W

Posts: 39
Joined: 6/3/2008
From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

Hi Chad,

Thanks for the information - very helpful.

Well it looks like is going to have to be the Plettenberg Xtra 30-10 EVO! from the couple of replies I have already received, it seems to be the best option for 'fit & forget'. I might look at ordering the EVO from abroad, because they are very expensive to buy in the UK. If any of you Guy's can suggest a a company that will ship to the UK, please let me know.

I have 90amp ESC's so at least I do not have to go buying one of them

Thanks to all for your input so far.

Regards,

Mark.

(in reply to can773)

Post #: 154

RE: Shinden Build - 6/6/2008 2:41:09 PM

can773

Posts: 1655
Joined: 1/25/2002
From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
Status: online

Hi Mark

You can try Etienne at www.icare-rc.com

He is the distributor over here for Plettenberg, I think he has sold to overseas customers previously.

sales@icare-rc.com

_____________________________

Chad Northeast

(in reply to M A W)

Post #: 155

RE: Shinden Build - 6/6/2008 6:21:26 PM

M A W

Posts: 39
Joined: 6/3/2008
From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

Hi Chad,

I have tried 'icare' and they are out of stock.

I gave my local model shop a call earlier today and he reckons that he can get me a good deal on one! if that is the case I will go through him as it makes sense to buy local just incase there is a problem - easier to return etc.

Regards,

Mark.

(in reply to can773)

Post #: 156

RE: Shinden Build - 6/7/2008 7:26:04 PM

burtona

Posts: 114
Joined: 4/7/2003
From: Bolivia, NC, USA
Status: offline

Question for those who have built a Shinden. Should the canopy be glued inside the canopy hatch or outside? Looking at mine, it seems like it would be easier, more secure, and nicer looking to glue to the inside of the hatch. What glue did you use for this? I'm thinking of using a white marine silicone caulking to glue on the inside of the hatch.
Thanks,
Dave Burton

(in reply to M A W)

Post #: 157

RE: Shinden Build - 6/7/2008 7:34:32 PM

M A W

Posts: 39
Joined: 6/3/2008
From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

Hi Dave,

I'm still waiting for my Shinden kit to arrive but, if you take a look at post #5 of this thread it may help. Looks like it goes on the outside of the canopy frame.

Regards,

Mark.

(in reply to burtona)

Post #: 158

RE: Shinden Build - 6/7/2008 8:02:58 PM

burtona

Posts: 114
Joined: 4/7/2003
From: Bolivia, NC, USA
Status: offline

Yeah, I saw that too. But when I fit the hatch frame over the canopy (before cutting) it fits almost perfectly inside and could easily be trimmed to fit and glue. Maybe Bryan will chime in with an idea too.

< Message edited by burtona -- 6/8/2008 5:14:11 AM >

(in reply to M A W)

Post #: 159

RE: Shinden Build - 6/8/2008 1:05:12 AM

elan120

Posts: 223
Joined: 9/28/2004
From: Fremont, CA, USA
Status: online

The one I saw two weeks ago was glued from inside, and the owner mentioned using AeroPoxy, but I also have seen using RC56 successfully.

Kevin

(in reply to burtona)

Post #: 160

RE: Shinden Build - 6/8/2008 2:39:32 AM

mjfrederick

Posts: 593
Joined: 8/18/2006
From: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
Status: offline

The clear canopy should be glued inside. The only reason he showed it on top in post #5 was to show how he determined how much he was going to cut off. I believe Bryan used RC56 for his, but I can't say for sure. If he hasn't chimed in by the time I talk to him next, I'll get back and let you know.

< Message edited by mjfrederick -- 6/9/2008 2:32:34 PM >

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mjfrederick AMA 275874 NSRCA 4134
Maybe the Dingo ate your baby

(in reply to elan120)

Post #: 161

RE: Shinden Build - 6/9/2008 2:34:46 AM

Jetpilot12

Posts: 201
Joined: 12/27/2001
From: Rayne, LA, USA
Status: offline

Yes Matthew, I was just trying show how I decided how much to cut off of the canopy.
I glued my canopy on the inside. I also used RC56, but any canopy glue will work.

Jon

(in reply to mjfrederick)

Post #: 162

RE: Shinden Build - 6/14/2008 9:01:43 AM

M A W

Posts: 39
Joined: 6/3/2008
From: Basingstoke, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

Shinden update,

Well the kit finally arrived on Thursday, well packed and all intact with no damage. I have to say I thought the quality was going to be a tad better than it is - but for the money I suppose I should not grumble. There are two areas I'm not that happy with: 1, the fuselage sides where they join at the front ( just behind spinner ) have not been aligned that well and there is a step between the two halves and the wings do not lign up with the fairings on the fuselage! if you do lign them up with the fairings then they are out when checked with a meter. Also the airelons are very very stiff to move by hand is this normal? I'm worried that they will put a fair bit of load on the servo's / RX battery.

So, they are the couple of areas I have found a bit disapointing so far - otherwise it all looks good.

Component weights are as follows:

Fuselage with canopy frame - chin cowl & rudder 1162gs
Canopy ( un cut ) 163gs
Left & Right wing halves 402gs each
Wing tube 94gs
Left stab 127gs
Right stab with carbon joiners 165gs
Fixed gear ( pair ) 157gs - will be replaced with a Bolly item
Wheel pants ( pair ) 30gs - may have to replace to take bigger wheels - Grass strip!

Grand total 2705 grams

I have ordered the Plettenberg 30-10 EVO as this seems to be the motor to go for, which will be coupled to a Jeti 90amp esc and I will first try a 21 x 14 to get me going.

My real concern is making weight! I put some rough weights together and I came up with approx 4600gs which is for airframe weight - motor - lipos - servos - esc, but does not include: RX + RX battery etc - wheels - tail wheel unit ( MK ) - push rods - closed loop - bulkhead - control horns and the other final bits n bobs that will be required to finish her.

I still have not made up my mind on servo selection yet, I'm tempted to use JR 8411's all round, using one for the elevator coupled to a MK dual elevator coupler and carbon push rod.

What I would like to know is........ the 5000kgs or 11lbs is that a dry weight? i.e Glow with no fuel and Electric with no Lipo's on board, as I really do believe that it will be over the 11lbs in a ready to fly state.

Also, some input of Lipo selection would be much appreciated - I can easily get Flightpower or Thunder Power cells. I already have a few packs of TP 3850 5S and FP 3700 5S which I will use for practise, what should I use capacity wise for longer flight times and for competion use bearing in mind weight is an issue.

Sorry to be asking more questions, but I would like to get this as right as possible first time as budget will not allow to many errors.

I look forward to some feedback.

Regards,

Mark.

(in reply to M A W)

Post #: 163

RE: Shinden Build - 6/14/2008 10:46:43 AM

f3a05

Posts: 434
Joined: 3/12/2005
From: Saffron Walden, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

quote:

Also, some input of Lipo selection would be much appreciated - I can easily get Flightpower or Thunder Power cells. I already have a few packs of TP 3850 5S and FP 3700 5S which I will use for practise, what should I use capacity wise for longer flight times and for competion use bearing in mind weight is an issue.

The TP prolites (around 5000maH) work well for competition use; they are just slightly lighter than the FP evolite F3A 5350 maH packs, which are just a little more powerful.
Both will cope easily with a typical PO9 or F09 schedule, staying well within the 80% capacity suggested for long battery life.
And, whether or not you think it's the right way to go on, the fact remains that here in the UK nobody's going to object if you're a bit over 5Kg at a comp., unless you're trying for a team place.

(in reply to M A W)