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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 12:44 PM   
Zor



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quote:

ORIGINAL: TexasSkyPilot

Hi guys,

You wouldn't know if anybody makes an ARF, kit or plans or ??? of the Skybolt in a size to take a 30-50CC gasser, would you? I'm guessing that the wingspan would be about 80 inches, more or less. I built a larger version of the GP Skybolt in my RealFlight program, and it's so much fun to fly that I've found myself hoping that I'll be able to find a REAL R/C model in about the same size. I already have the GP Super Stearman set up with a 30CC gasser, and it's a nice bird and a good flyer, but nothing flies quite like a Skybolt, if you ask me.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. I'm not in any rush, but I'm keeping my eyes peeled from now on.

Jim


Hello Jim,

Depending on your outlook on this hobby, your facilities (drafting), your availability of material (balsa, plywood, steel wire), and your sense of material properties (weight, strength, dimensioning), and guidance from the kit drawings (two sheets drawn by Paul Carlson) and the time, it could be a most enjoyable project to increase the size by a factor of 150% making the model 85.5 inches wingspan or even double it at 114 inches wingspan.

It would not be necessary to draw all the details as seen on the kit drawings.

Example for the wings _ _ _ you increase the outline of the airfoil and make the ribs with the same thickness and hardness of balsa and ply. There is many ways to do that again depending on your facilities.
You then draw the outside dimensions of the larger wing and a single line to show the position of each rib.
You decide on the size of the spar material and just draw two lines showing its position. Any details are drawn in your mind (if you understand what I mean).

You keep in mind that doubling a linear dimension increase the area by the square of the ratio and the volume (weight) by the third power (eight times). That is simple enough.

If you decide to go that way, and I do not know any better way, there is many fellows in this forum that can help you in your endeavor.

I agree with you on the flying qualities of the Skybolt. That is due to some minute (small) factors hard to define or explain. I very recently wrote that the only other model with similar qualities is the original Astrohog.

I can try to explain these flying qualities by analogy to a woman's face. What makes a pretty lady compared to an ordinary one or an ugly one. They all have two eyes, a nose, two lips, two ears, hair on the top but as often said and written "beauty is in the eyes of the beholder" _ _ _      .

The decision is all yours. All that can be done through the forum is help wih advices and suggestions.

Good luck,

Zor







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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 1:16 PM   
smithcreek



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Wendell Hostetler makes plans for one that would be the size you are looking for. I'm sure there are a few kit cutters that could supply parts. No way I would bother to scale up the GP kit. It flies ok, but it's not even stand-way-way-off scale.

Hostetler Skybolt

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 2:16 PM   
Zor



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quote:

ORIGINAL: smithcreek

Wendell Hostetler makes plans for one that would be the size you are looking for. I'm sure there are a few kit cutters that could supply parts. No way I would bother to scale up the GP kit. It flies ok, but it's not even stand-way-way-off scale.

Hostetler Skybolt


When you open the URL you have to go to  the very bottom and click on to go to the home page and find the prices of the set of drawings.

Zor



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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 2:46 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Thanks, guys.

I found a few sources for the Hostetler kits, and I think they're all associated with each other. The model looks like it's going to be pretty heavy for the size, though I'm sure it'll fly okay.

It's about 5" more wingspan than my GP Super Stearman, and I think the extra weight is due to old-style stick building design versus the weight savings of today's lite-ply engineering we now see so much. My Super Stearman (at 15 pounds and 1440 sq inches) should be highly-powered with the 30CC engine it has, whereas the Hostetler model at estimated weight of 24 pounds and 1660 sq inches would be an underpowered dog. They recommend 50CC minumum.

I don't have all the info yet, so I'll keep researching it.

I'm not concerned with scale, smithcreek. I really like the looks of the GP Skybolt. If it doesn't look like it's scale, then I probably wouldn't like the actual full-scale Skybolt as much as I do the GP. I finished with scale modeling years ago. Sure, they look good, but scale modeling means extra weight to me, and nothing more.

Jim

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 6:14 PM   
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Jim,

quote:

ORIGINAL: TexasSkyPilot

I found a few sources for the Hostetler kits, and I think they're all associated with each other. The model looks like it's going to be pretty heavy for the size, though I'm sure it'll fly okay. 

It's about 5" more wingspan than my GP Super Stearman, and I think the extra weight is due to old-style stick building design versus the weight savings of today's lite-ply engineering we now see so much. My Super Stearman (at 15 pounds and 1440 sq inches) should be highly-powered with the 30CC engine it has, whereas the Hostetler model at estimated weight of 24 pounds and 1660 sq inches would be an underpowered dog. They recommend 50CC minumum.

I don't have all the info yet, so I'll keep researching it.


I have the Hostetler Skybolt plans and a kit by Precision Cut Kits. Glass engine cowl and wheel pants by Fiberglass Specialties, aluminum main landing gear from Abell Hobby. The kit is a little more than three years old now, and was cut by CNC router before PCK swithed-over to laser. I have a Zenoah G-62 (62CC) with a Toni Clark electronic ignition conversion.

The Hostetler 'Bolt plans are a 1/4-scale (76.5") enlargment of Sig's 1/6-scale 'Bolt plans, with slight building differences here and there. Sig modeled thier 'Bolt after Steen's debute 1970 edition, therfore the same for the Hostetler. I have the Sig 1/6-scale kit as well and have made the comparisons bewteen it and the Hostetler plans. Being larger, and being Hostetler, Wendell added some areas of support not needed in the Sig. One area I'm not too wild about is that Hostetler followed Sig in using solid balsa sheet tail surfaces. The vert. stab/rudder - hori. stab/elevators are 3/8" balsa. I'd be far more comfortable with open-structures using laminated outside edges. Far-stronger and far-less susceptible to warping like sheet balsa. Needless to say that as the builder, modifications can be made to suit.

Last summer, I came across a guy selling a set of Dario Brisighella's 1/4-scale 'Bolt (78"). Brisighella's presentation is truly scale. The main landing gear is a built-up wire structure emulating the full-size 'Bolt instead of "strap" aluminum gear. The tail surfaces are built-up, open-structures utilizing laminated outside edges. The plans themselves are a work of art, and I'm very lucky to have come across them.

Between the two, I'm really conflicted because I have the kit and all the major components for the Hostetler, but I really like the Brisighella better... 


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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 8:02 PM   
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Thanks, EJ,

I can see you've put a lot of thought into these two. As far as how to build the tail, I have to wonder about the CG of this bird, whether it's prone to tail-heavy or ?? Typically bipes are tail heavy, so I think you're probably right about the built-up tail versus solid balsa sheet. Stronger, lighter, and will last longer through times of humidity, etc.

I was thinking that if the tail was built nice and light, the gas engine could be one of the new 55CC gassers they have out now. They're quite light and strong runners. It's always a tough call on the engine, and the plane's tendencies toward nose or tail heaviness can dictate what you must use.. So far, I'm not finding any build reviews on the Hostetler or the other one.

If I could have exactly what I want, I'd have something that would hold a Syssa 30CC. That's equivalent to good-running 1.80 glow.

My GP Super Stearman was a beautiful match to the Syssa. The instructions and the guys building it almost all had to add 19 ounces to the nose when using the specified glow motor, and the Syssa was exactly the weight of the 19 ounces plus the glow motor.

It would be nice to find a Skybolt with a 72" span. I'll bet that would be just perfect for the Syssa. That's probably a tall order, though. I know the kitcutters can resize plans to order, and that might be the way I have to go.

If you have all the major parts, you should probably go with it, because making another cowl would be a bear. That's what I'd be facing if I had the plans resized.

Jim

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 8:44 PM   
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The picture of the wing shows why I lose stuff on my workbench. I finally got the wings finished and attached. Getting the wings right on this plane was a bit of a struggle. I had them on and off numerous times. The lower wing was not zero incidence with respect to the fuselage and I had to sand the saddle a little bit. It all seems pretty good now. I have the lower wing at zero, the tail at plus 1.5 give or take a little, and the top wing at about minus .8 at the root as well as the wingtips. I think it is as good as it is going to get.

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 8:45 PM   
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Maybe Bob Dively plans. I'm not knowledgeable on his Skybolt plans, but his Pitts plans built into a light plane.

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 9:13 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Bob Dively just wrote me back.

He's apparently discontinued everything related to the Skybolt. Drat.

Jim

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/6/2012 9:50 PM   
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Jim,

Hostetler offers his plans in any scale (ref: bottom of Wendell's home page).

The bugaboo comes in when re-gauging what size material to use, i.e.: 1/8" sheet/stick instead of 3/16", etc.. I'm betting that the plans still show the dimensions of materials for the scale the model was designed for. Wendell is very responsive to e-mails, you may want to drop him one...

As far as my cowl, Fiberglass Specialties offers most of Hostetler's designed, the 'Bolt included. They also offer the Brisighella 'Bolt cowl, so its not like I can use that excuse as a deal-breaker...



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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/7/2012 12:29 PM   
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Some reflections and comparisions with other Bipes I have built.

I have built a Goldberg Ultimate, D&L Designs Stampe, Andrews Aeromaster, Sig Hog and am working on the Bolt. While I don't remember all the details, or perhaps hardly any of the details, here is what I think so far.

I thought all very really nice kits, except the D&L, which was a short kit and more like a plans built.

I prefer the all balsa construction of the Bolt, Aeromaster and D&L Stampe to the light ply of the Hog and Ultimate, though the light ply build quicker and are more foolproof for sure. The balsa fuselage of the Bolt is a work of art. The Stampe has the lightest fuselage by a long shot and is the lightest of these planes (but is underpowered with a Saito 82), and has the most wing area (1000 squares). The Bolt has the most "shapely" fuselage by a long shot.

For some reason I have used a LOT of CA on the bolt: about 4 oz of medium and 3 + oz of thin. I think the manual says 2 of each. I am sure I used quite a bit less on my Hog Bipe and the other planes as well.

The cabane and interplane connections are very clever, but fitting, rigging the wings and setting the incidence was a time consuming and scary process, by far the hardest of all the Bipes. I agree with Zor that the directions have the wrong sequence.

I really, really did not like the part where you apply light fiberglass cloth to the interplane struts. It was hard to do, I used quite a bit of CA here I think to wet the fiberglass, I got my hands covered with CA and fiberglass, it certainly did not help my CA allergy, and when I was all done it came out so crappy I spent about an hour sanding it all off back down to the balsa (which is definately at least hardened by CA now). I may use a very small piece of heavier fiberglass right at the tips where the wires come out, and not try to cover the whole top and bottom of the strut, which seems pointless.

I much prefer the cabane and interplane strut system on the Sig Hog in terms of easy building and sturdy set up. I liked the Hog set up the best of all the Bipes. The Sig was probably the easiest of all to build, not that I am necessarily looking for ease of build.

The lack of a cowl, and omitted wheelpants contributed to the ease of built of my Hog and also probably saved a good 1/2 pound.

I notice that the Hog is about the same span as the Bolt, but has at least one additional inch of chord to the wing. My Stampe has the most wing area of all of these 60 sized Bipes.

I think my kit was pretty old and the die cutting was rather perfect. I don't think a single part broke while punching it out. It was much easier to punch out the parts than with laser cutting. I thought Great Planes provided really good balsa, with different densities for different parts. I liked the heavy balsa ribs because they didn't break every time I touched them. I did replace some of the pretty light balsa supplied for the tail with even lighter balsa. BTW, Sig also provided really nice balsa with their kit.

I really dislike the solid balsa ailerons on the Hog and the Bolt and I think on the Ultimate. They are way too heavy. I replaced them with built up on the Bolt. I don't like the solid tail surfaces on the Sig for the same reason, and built up the elevator on that one.

The Hog came with the best hardware kit. It used metal clevisis, 4-40 for the interplane wires and aileron wires, and had other good stuff. I have to throw away the plastic clevisis on the Great Planes kit.

I am glad I did the U-tube elevator connection on the Bolt (so far). It is simple.

I haven't flown the Hog and obviously not the Bolt. I think of the three I have flown, the Andrews Aeromaster, which I bashed into a Jungemeister lookalike, is the most fun to fly. The Ultimate is a great flyer too. I think there is something off with the incidence of the Stampe and it is underpowered, but the Saito 82 was as big as would fit in the cowl.


The Skybolt seems to have the most active thread going.

I am about to the stage of a ready to cover ARF.



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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/7/2012 2:49 PM   
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I had a SIG Hog Bipe for years, and it was a super-dependable plane, and a very good flyer. Not as responsive as an Ultimate. It was more relaxing to fly. I gave some thought to creating a larger Hog Bipe, but decided that if I'm going to build something like that it's going to be sleek.

Somebody stole the Hog Bipe, and since then I've replaced it with a SIG Sundancer .50, which is a nice flying, very nimble little bipe, powered with a Saito .72, and also a GP Super Stearman, with the 30CC Syssa which I talked about above.

I've been trying to upload a photo of my Hog Bipe, but there's something wrong in RCU right now, it won't go through.


Jim

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/7/2012 3:09 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: TexasSkyPilot

Bob Dively just wrote me back.

He's apparently discontinued everything related to the Skybolt. Drat.

Jim


There's a Dively Skybolt on ebay right now, but it's partially built. Looks like one side of top and bottom wing, the elevators and rudder are built. Hard to tell what is still with the kit, the seller says bought it at an estate sale and doesn't seem to know much. Plans, wing ribs, cabane wires all seem to be mixed in the box. It might be worth getting some more info on from the seller. It's a buy it now price of f$179, with shipping still under $200.

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/7/2012 3:55 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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I've already looked into it. No Cowl.

Jim

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/7/2012 3:55 PM   
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Check this out. Nimble is an understatement for a Hog Bipe. I wish I had this guys skill.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNqTb0na0jQ

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/7/2012 7:23 PM   
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I have flown 3 bipes bust must admit to having only limited stick time on all of them, say 10 to 15 flights on each. They have all been a joy to fly and stand out from the single wingers when at the club, theres just something about the way a bipe flys.

The hog bipe flys really well and has a nice light wing loading that makes for forgiving landings and takeoffs, is a bit squirly on the ground though.

The bolt is faster by far and has a much higher wing loading, but has easier take offs than the hog, much more predictable, probably due to the extra weight, she also flys very well but when landing you need to watch not slow her to much. She is a much nicer shape. She flys much more scale like.

The pitts is a arf I got second hand, it is a asm pitts special 1/4 scale with a 62.5 inch wing span, she weighs about 12.5 pounds with a 26 cc crrc engine and smoke  in her and has a huge wing cord, she flys very light and has unlimited vertical with the crrc 26, a modern 30 cc would hover her no problem. She takes off and lands the easiest of the three but is far more elevator sensitive than the other bipes, the rolls are not that fast, not as fast as the bolt or hog bipe.

i love all three of the planes but will mostly fly the pitts as she is not one of my kit builds so I have less stress flying her as I do not have as much time invested in her, hopefully by the time summer comes and goes I will be flying all three with confidence and be able to give a more skilled assesment of these models.

Oh I have a goldberg ultimate in kit form to build as well, but that will not be next as need a few single wingers in the hanger.

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/7/2012 10:12 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: u2builder

The cabane and interplane connections are very clever, but fitting, rigging the wings and setting the incidence was a time consuming and scary process, by far the hardest of all the Bipes. I agree with Zor that the directions have the wrong sequence.

I really, really did not like the part where you apply light fiberglass cloth to the interplane struts. It was hard to do, I used quite a bit of CA here I think to wet the fiberglass, I got my hands covered with CA and fiberglass, it certainly did not help my CA allergy, and when I was all done it came out so crappy I spent about an hour sanding it all off back down to the balsa (which is definately at least hardened by CA now). I may use a very small piece of heavier fiberglass right at the tips where the wires come out, and not try to cover the whole top and bottom of the strut, which seems pointless.



I also did the cabanes in a different sequence. It was still a bit intimidating but no where near as difficult as setting up the cabanes and struts on the BUSA 1/4 scale EAA Bipe.

I glassed my struts and am very pleased with them. At first I did just the ends like described in the instructions but I decided I woud rather paint the struts than cover them. So I went back and glassed the rest. Now mine are completely glassed, top to bottom and on the ends too, with 3/4 oz fiberglass. It wasn't bad doing it with finishing resin. I've used CA to put glass on a wing center joint but would never try it for a piece like this. It came out great and I didn't have to mess around with covering around the corners, just shoot the struts while painting the cowl.

I also glassed the wings around the strut and cabane connections to prevent wing rash while assembling.

Dave

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/8/2012 12:02 AM   
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Yeah, that probably made more sense. I should have done them like that the first time. I wound up putting fiberglass tape on the corners. It least it came out neat. I am not going to blend it in and try to make it dissapear. I'll paint them rather than cover them. It is a heavier tape that came in the kit and will be very strong. I also taped the cabane holes and might do the interplane holes as you suggest.

I had planned to mount my Saito 125 engine sideways as per plans but was very concerned there would not be enough space on the top and just didn't dare cut my expensive fiberglass cowl and then find out it wouldn't clear something or I couldn't get the cowl on or off. Luckily my engine mount had symmetrical holes, so I rotated the engine to face down. The thrust line is still where it should be. I cut the cowl for that and it fits well and leaves a decent portion of the head exposed for good cooling. Should be fine as long as I don't wipe out the gear. The fiberglass specialties cowl stuck out about 5/8" more than the plans showed so I had to add some plywood spacers. I ordered a TNT gear, and asked them to make it 1 1/4" longer. I also got some bigger wheelpants so I can run 3 1/4" tires on the sometimes tall grass at our club field. I am using the HD version of the Sullivan tailwheel bracket which tends to raise the tail, another reason for the taller gear in addition to the 16" prop I will be running.

I am about ready to start covering as soon as I finish the cowl and throttle hookup.

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RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/8/2012 12:29 AM   
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Hi guys,

This is a very active and interesting thread.

I remember when I was looking for a thread on the Skybolt I found this thread that at the time was just about dead.from 31 Dec to the following July.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _


 RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 12/31/2008 8:40 PM        
 
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 RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 5/7/2009 1:09 AM        
 
thisoldman
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Status: offline   im at a standstill on mine.. have a p38 im building for someone else so had to stop and put mine on the back burner for now.. was at the covering stage..

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 RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 5/7/2009 2:51 AM        
 
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Zor

HELLO guys,

I am wondering if this forum or thread is still active.

I am just finishing a Skybolt

Zor

RCU threads are always active as long as we have searchers like yourself. I've got 200+ flights on mine, and it still flys like the day I maidened it...better, actually. It's a real ball in the air, just keep the speed up on landing. She's NOT a floater.

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Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

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 RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 5/7/2009 3:13 AM        
 
 
biplanemurphy

Posts: 203
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Last Login: 2/2/2012
From: Lancaster, CA, USA
Status: offline   Yep,

Still here.

So is my Skybolt.

Flyin'' in the desert.
Tumbleweed Flats Flyers.

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I now also notice that some postings are missing.
I cannot find my first posting .

I was just curious.

Zor

 



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       Post #: 1294

RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/8/2012 12:47 AM   
Zor



Posts: 2768
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From: Ontario, ON, CANADA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: u2builder

Yeah, that probably made more sense. I should have done them like that the first time. I wound up putting fiberglass tape on the corners. It least it came out neat. I am not going to blend it in and try to make it dissapear. I'll paint them rather than cover them. It is a heavier tape that came in the kit and will be very strong. I also taped the cabane holes and might do the interplane holes as you suggest.

I had planned to mount my Saito 125 engine sideways as per plans but was very concerned there would not be enough space on the top and just didn't dare cut my expensive fiberglass cowl and then find out it wouldn't clear something or I couldn't get the cowl on or off. Luckily my engine mount had symmetrical holes, so I rotated the engine to face down. The thrust line is still where it should be. I cut the cowl for that and it fits well and leaves a decent portion of the head exposed for good cooling. Should be fine as long as I don't wipe out the gear. The fiberglass specialties cowl stuck out about 5/8" more than the plans showed so I had to add some plywood spacers. I ordered a TNT gear, and asked them to make it 1 1/4" longer. I also got some bigger wheelpants so I can run 3 1/4" tires on the sometimes tall grass at our club field. I am using the HD version of the Sullivan tailwheel bracket which tends to raise the tail, another reason for the taller gear in addition to the 16" prop I will be running.

I am about ready to start covering as soon as I finish the cowl and throttle hookup.


u2,

I also have my Saito 125 upside down. I have shown that in posts 1205 and 1217.

It makes for a better looking fuselage front and cowl.

Zor



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       Post #: 1295

RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/8/2012 12:49 AM   
dbacque


 

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U2, I used the 3/4 oz. cloth on the wings too. But once I had the patches I decided I wanted a little more protection and added a second layer so in total I've got 1 1/2 oz. around the wing connections. Then I feathered the edges with filler so the patches aren't visible through the covering. I'd do the same thing on your struts.

I was able to get the Fiberglass Specialties cowl to fit as per the plans but it did take quite a bit of carving on the chin of the fuselage to get it to slide back far enough. There was plenty wood in the chin so I kept carving where ever it was tight until it would slide into position.

Dave

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       Post #: 1296

RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/8/2012 1:57 AM   
u2builder


 

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Thanks Dave. I will do the protection on the wings. Not hard to do and now is the time.

I also did quite a bit of carving just to get it to fit on at all, but after a while I just didn't want to make it any thinner and put the spacers under the engine mount. The inverted engine looks good in there with plenty of space and the throttle lines up nicely. I run several Saitos inverted with no issue, other than of course what happens if I wipe out the gear. I have em every which way, rightside up, sideways, and inverted. Again, I love the exposed, right side up engine on the Sig Hog. So simple. But this installation on the Bolt won't be bad, I think the muffler connection is just out of the cowl, and the glow plug is out of the cowl. And it looks like I have a lot of head exposed for cooling, when combine with the inlet in the front and more outlet around the cylinders should work well.

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       Post #: 1297

RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/8/2012 2:00 AM   
u2builder


 

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Yes Zor, I noticed that from an earlier post. I was just going to follow the plans, but decided it was too risky the way things looked. I am glad I had a mount that I could just rotate and am very happy with the cowl installation as this is something I didn't want to screw up. I do think the engine looks good like that too.

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       Post #: 1298

RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/8/2012 4:20 AM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Just a suggestion, but quite a few years ago I got sick of glassing with fiberglass, and after having it suggested to me I tried using the white glue with the polymers in it. One brand is called Gluit, another is called Probond I think, I think you know which ones I'm talking about. I tried the method just the way it was told to me.

I simply used a business card to spread a medium-thin layer of the glue on the wood, then used a squeegee or piece of cardboard to lay the cloth down into the glue, then used another business card to spread a thin layer over the top of the cloth smoothly. No stinky smells, works great, and the polymer-base glue is sandable. You can also add microballoons to the top layer to increase the sandability, and adding another coat is no big deal at all. Fills the weave like magic, and sands WAY easier than F-glass resin.

Best of all, it cleans up with water!

I first started using it to tape my wing centers for strength, and when I found that by using it I had achieved the smoothest job ever, I was hooked. Did I mention no nasty smells? lol

By the way, here is a photo of my Hog Bipe. If anybody spots it anywhere, let me know! Sweet bird. It's checkerboard underneath the wings.

Jim

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_____________________________

J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC, and T.I.T.O.R. - In July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

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       Post #: 1299

RE: Skybolt hangar and clubhouse - 2/8/2012 12:08 PM   
Zor



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Here are better views of the Saito 125 installed inverted in my Skybolt.

Actually the cylinder center line is 20 degrees off the vertical.

zor


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