molyhotdog
Posts: 33
Joined: 11/5/2007 From: , MN, USA Status: offline
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I redid my nosewheel retract steering system eliminating the cables. I took the factory steering arms out of the nosewheel strut, rethreaded the holes to 6-32 so I could use bolts to replace the arms, used 4-40 ball links, spaced out to the length where the original cable holes were, and drilled out the balls to fit over the 6-32 bolts so when the retract rotataes up the ball link swivels rearward pushing the steering linkage rearward. I used dual 4-40 rods at each end with the yellow 4-40 flex in the middle back to the servo, remounted the servo at an angle front to rear to match the angle of the rods. On the servo arm I used the heavy-duty 4-40 easy connectors , slightly drilled out for more clearance, with the allen heads removed so the rods can slide forward and backward through the easy connectors when retracting. I ran the rods through the easy connectors and put a 90 degree bend on the end of the rods. When the nose wheel retracts the rods go rearward through the easy connectors, when the retract goes down the 90 degree bend at the end of the rods goes against the easy connectors for a pull-pull condition. It keeps the nosewheel fairly straight when retracting and there is nothing to mess up when the servo actuates when the nosewheel is retracted. It works awesome and seems to be extremely foolproof. Unfortunatly when I put the Moki in it didn't come with a manual. I used the fuel sold to me with the Moki for use in the engine and guess what, too much nitro and not enough oil, the motor blew up in the air. Fortunately it gave me about 10 seconds warning which gave me enough time to position myself for a flawless deadstick landing without issue, thank goodness.
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