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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> Yellow Spitfire Questions
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Yellow Spitfire Questions - 3/6/2003 1:24:46 AM   
SpitfireMKI



Posts: 1463
Joined: 7/6/2002
From: RAF Turnhouse 603 Squadron, MD, USA
Status: offline 		Looking for some advice !

1) I have an 'older' kit with the preformed canopy, how difficult would it be to adapt the newer glass framed unit ?

2) Are there any issues with the ailerons, I've heard of them needing to be counterbalanced...true ?

3) How do I get the retracts to unlock ? I did not get any info on them with the kit. They are yellow items.

4) Which Cockpit kit is best ?

5) Any problems/solutions to the gear being mounted in foam ? I'm told they will push through the wing on a hard landing. I usually don't land that hard but it happens to all of us now and then.

Thanks !

S1

_____________________________

"What madness ? What secrets ? We Plunder,
All failure, We learn from.... Discovery"
       Post #: 1

Yellow Spitfire - 3/7/2003 9:46:51 AM   
florida817


 

Posts: 47
Joined: 1/8/2002
From: Pace, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Hi S1,

I have the Yellow Spitfire kit in storage right now pending a move and a Yellow Zero ready for primer so I'll take a stab at some of your questions. Others with more experience may have different answers.

1) I think my Spitfire (like the Zero) has the f/g frame that fits over the preformed canopy. If you have the canopy my guess is Yellow could provide the frame as a separate item.

2) I'd be inclined to build up the control surfaces on the Spitfire to try to reduce mass behind the hinge line. Remember though, the full scale Mk. XIV had metal skinned ailerons. Use 4-40 rods and short, stiff linkages to prevent flutter. Speaking of built up surfaces, I think you could build up the stab and come out lighter than the f/g one provided in the kit.

3) The easiest way to get the retracts to unlock is to put a short length of tubing on the fittings and use a hand pump to blow them up or down. If you have an older set of retracts you might want to take a look at the spacers in the frames that act as up and down stops. The newer ones are slightly eccentric and can be rotated for adjustment after loosening the end screws. They have a hole drilled in them to insert a tool to turn them. The older ones are simple cylindrical spacers with no holes. Yellow replaced the old spacers on my Zero retracts with new ones at no cost.

4) Jack Dorman (JD Models) makes a nice Spitfire cockpit kit. Dave Platt handles them in the US and someone out there may have a direct link to Mr. Dorman. There is a photo of the cockpit kit contents in the current issue of RC Scale International magazine as part of a kit review.

5) I can't say for the Spitfire, but the Zero gear rails look sturdy enough in the foam wing. They're really solidly mounted. I suspect if you land hard enough to knock those loose you've got more to worry about than a patch job.

My .02 worth. Good luck with your Spitfire, it builds into a beautiful model. I can't wait to start on mine.

Tom

(in reply to SpitfireMKI)
       Post #: 2

Yellow Spit - 3/8/2003 10:21:01 AM   
Growler84


 

Posts: 20
Joined: 2/16/2002
From: Las Vegas, NV, USA
Status: offline 		S1,
The plane builds into a fine flying machine in stock form. While it is true that a lighter built-up tail section will save counter balance weight I can tell you that it is not neccessary. I'd try to keep it lighter, but I would not waste time building another stab and elevators. My first Yellow Spit was all scaled out for competition and it weighed 32 pounds. Yes 32 pounds and it flew outstanding on an OS BGX-1. The ailerons in stock form are fine, no counter balance was needed on either of my two Spits. DO mount your fuel tank on the CG! This will cancel out any nose over tendencies and result in a more fun-to-fly airplane. My BGX with the fuel tank on the CG and running muffler pressure runs like a clock...dead reliable. Properly balanced the model should fly with a slight amount of down elevator trim...like the full size. The nose of the plane pitches down when flaps are deployed, be prepared to trim in some up elevator or set you elevator flap mix to compensate once you have figured out how much is needed. Final note, for your first few landings (until you perfect your three point) wheel land the model, as soon as the mains touch down relax the elevator. With all that wing area it is easy to pull even a 32 pound Yellow Spit back into the air in a thrust deficient state. This technique is easier on your wing tips. Have fun with the model, you will not regret it.

_____________________________

Greg

(in reply to SpitfireMKI)
       Post #: 3

Yellow Spitfire Questions - 3/8/2003 9:41:37 PM   
SpitfireMKI



Posts: 1463
Joined: 7/6/2002
From: RAF Turnhouse 603 Squadron, MD, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Thanks guys for the info ! It's a big help for sure.

32 lbs Growler ? Holy ----t I can't believe she didn't come in like a brick. All this talk is winding me up but I know I've got to finish the Chipmunk first. I have my 80" Mustang to hold me over for now so the Spit is gonna get the full treatment.

Thanks again !

S1

_____________________________

"What madness ? What secrets ? We Plunder,
All failure, We learn from.... Discovery"

(in reply to SpitfireMKI)
       Post #: 4

Spitfire - 3/9/2003 8:31:25 AM   
MarkShapiro


 

Posts: 668
Joined: 2/1/2002
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Hello Gentelmen, I too am just starting to build my Yellow Spitfire. Acutually, I have been working on the wing for a few weeks now. I will post a few pictures to show my progress and the landing gear mount installation. I also will try to show the aileron servo mount set up, as modified.

(in reply to SpitfireMKI)
       Post #: 5

Spitfire - 3/9/2003 8:33:42 AM   
MarkShapiro


 

Posts: 668
Joined: 2/1/2002
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Hello Gentelmen, I too am just starting to build my Yellow Spitfire. Acutually, I have been working on the wing for a few weeks now. I will post a few pictures to show my progress and the landing gear mount installation. I also will try to show the aileron servo mount set up, as modified.

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(in reply to SpitfireMKI)
       Post #: 6

Spsitfire - 3/9/2003 9:16:31 AM   
MarkShapiro


 

Posts: 668
Joined: 2/1/2002
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: offline 		This is the fiberglass wing tip that came with the kit. I felt it was very flimsy so I stiffened it up by injecting liquid foam into it before gluing it on. Now it is VERY stiff. Be careful with that stuff because if not, it will expand and rupture whatever is encasing it.

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       Post #: 7

Spsitfire - 3/9/2003 9:24:18 AM   
MarkShapiro


 

Posts: 668
Joined: 2/1/2002
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: offline 		This is a shot of the gear inside its well and housing. Notice the string comming out of the flap servo housing. This leads around the weel well inside the 1/64 ply sheeting and into the aileron servo housing. I will pull the servo lead through the wing using this string. The entire lead will be completely concealed.

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       Post #: 8

Spitfire - 3/9/2003 9:38:54 AM   
MarkShapiro


 

Posts: 668
Joined: 2/1/2002
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Another shot of the gear.

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       Post #: 9

Filling the wing tips - 3/9/2003 9:41:21 AM   
florida817


 

Posts: 47
Joined: 1/8/2002
From: Pace, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Hi Mark,

That's a good tip on filling the wing tips with expandable foam. I wish I had done that with the Zero. The Zero has large wing tips that are really pretty flimsy and don't hold their shape real well once they're attached to the wing. I spent a lot of time filling and sanding low spots in the tips that I perhaps could have eliminated by filling the tip with foam in the beginning.

Did you use expandable foam insulation from Home Depot or Lowe's or something more exotic? Did you do it in one shot, or make several partial fills?

Thanks,

Tom

(in reply to SpitfireMKI)
       Post #: 10

Foam - 3/9/2003 9:47:21 AM   
MarkShapiro


 

Posts: 668
Joined: 2/1/2002
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Hello Tom. I used a product called Great Stuff. It is sold at Home Depot and is regular standard foam. It was done in one shot. Again, give the wet foam a way to escape out while curing or else it will destroy whatever it is it went into (except for masonry and plumbing as it was designed for). The wing tips are still very light, but very rigid.

(in reply to SpitfireMKI)
       Post #: 11

Yellow Spitfire Questions - 3/9/2003 7:05:02 PM   
bignasdy-RCU



Posts: 361
Joined: 9/29/2002
From: Garland, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Hi fellas, I too use great stuff for alot of things, but............. you dont realy have to worry about it messing anything up. It will not expand and break anything. Ive used it on wing tips, attaching moving pilots heads, and recently to attach my stuka skirts to the gear wire. Works great. I also tried to make stuka tank guns by filling two toilet paper rolls with the stuff, and sealing them off with tape. That didnt work so well, it didnt fill good, and the guns weigh too much so Im gonna use styro for them, when I get around to it. Do keep in mind however, that there is, as far as I know, three kinds of great stuff. for, Gaps and cracks, big gap filler, doors and windows, and latex. Ok, 4 kinds. I use the gaps and cracks, cause thats what they had around here. The big gap great stuff, may damage something, but I doubt it. Good luck!
d

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       Post #: 12

Foam - 3/10/2003 1:42:16 AM   
Alleymutt


 

Posts: 64
Joined: 2/4/2002
From: Richfield, Minnesota.USA
Status: offline 		Great Stuff also maks a NON expanding foam too. I have used this in the belly pan on my Yellow Jug and is strong. Be really carefull when using the expanding stuff. It can lift a big Jaccuzzi off the floor(without water in it). I know.

Kirk The Plumber

(in reply to SpitfireMKI)
       Post #: 13

Yellow Spitfire Questions - 3/10/2003 8:02:16 AM   
bignasdy-RCU



Posts: 361
Joined: 9/29/2002
From: Garland, TX, USA
Status: offline 		A jacuzzi!? no kiddin? man, the great stuff Im gettin must not be SO GREAT! LOL
d

(in reply to SpitfireMKI)
       Post #: 14

Spitfire wing - 3/11/2003 8:15:25 AM   
MarkShapiro


 

Posts: 668
Joined: 2/1/2002
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Hey guys, this is my modification of the aileron servo housing. The servo will slip right into the ply framing and fit snuggly in place. Impossible for any lateral movement. Then, an ABS plastic or some other heavy plastic will be strapped across the top of the srevo to keep it from popping up. The strap is screwed down into each ply frame/mount. Removing the servo is as simple as removing the strap and pulling your servo right out. In case you're wondering, the strap is not pictured here.

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       Post #: 15

Great pics - 3/12/2003 10:43:49 AM   
Alleymutt


 

Posts: 64
Joined: 2/4/2002
From: Richfield, Minnesota.USA
Status: offline 		Mark,

Great pics of your Spit in progress... I like the idea of doubling the thickness of your hinge point too.

I used to hang out with some r/c guys down in your neck of the woods in the early 80's. Know a guy by the name of Jack Cone (Conehead) ? Or Mike Maas...? They got me hooked on this r/c hobby and taught me to fly. I lost contact with them , and I would like to talk to them again sometime. Hope to hear from you soon.


Kirk out
P.S.

I used to live on SW 136th St. across from the Falls Mall.

(in reply to SpitfireMKI)