RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (Full Version)

All Forums >> [Electric Aircraft Universe] >> 3D Electric Flying!



Message

wagen017 -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (8/29/2007 7:13:24 PM)

PappaJef, great to see you have this setup, since I bought this as well, and am curious about your experience once it flies. Should have a great time with that. You are also going for the 2200 4S battery pack?



wagen017 -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (8/29/2007 8:12:35 PM)

Just to let you know: I found the AJ on the Real Flight swap pages:

Original version:
http://www.knifeedge.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=1592

**** version:
http://www.knifeedge.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=1683

I guess you need G3.5 for it.

The rating is pretty high, I am trying it out now. Always good thumb excersize.....

Hmm, hope the real one will be much better! Looks like it is too heavy! Or something, I am no aeronautical engineer!



rmenke -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (8/29/2007 9:16:21 PM)

pappajeff:

Am looking at batteries and see I dont know the size of the battery box of this airframe. Would you please measure and let me know? Thanks



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (8/31/2007 2:49:46 AM)

Rmenke,

It's spookey.....I've got a 5-star General too, and boy does she have projects scheduled for me! Yet, it sure keeps me in shape and I still manage to find time to build and fly. It's just a time management issue. As far as the battery size goes, you could actually use a battery that was 6" long
X 3"wide X 2" high. I have a 3S 3700mAh which fits just fine and it's size is 6"L X 2"W X 1"H, so you could fit two of these (one on top of each other) with no problems. Fliton recommends using two 3S-1500mAh to 1800mAh for 3S2P 3000mAh to 3600mAh. I just not sure what I will use
and it's probably going to depend on the watt meter results with different size props and batteries. I hope that this helps.

By the way, if you ever see a guy who looks like this former Jet Pilot..............be sure to run the other way....FAST!!!!!!!!!!



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (8/31/2007 4:32:03 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: wagen017

Just to let you know: I found the AJ on the Real Flight swap pages:

Original version:
http://www.knifeedge.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=1592

**** version:
http://www.knifeedge.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=1683

I guess you need G3.5 for it.

The rating is pretty high, I am trying it out now. Always good thumb excersize.....

Hmm, hope the real one will be much better! Looks like it is too heavy! Or something, I am no aeronautical engineer!



Volkert,

What do I do to download these AJ versions and get them on my G3.5???? I sure would like to try out these AJ's on the simulator.



wagen017 -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (8/31/2007 6:02:44 PM)

Pappajeff, first click on the link. If you then click on the file, you can either open it or save it. Choose Save it, and select some directory you want to save this. Then start G3, select Simulation, and then Import, and then G3X. Select the directory where you saved the file, and select it. After a few seconds it will give you a message as "succesfully imported etc." .

Now if you select Aircraft, select Aircraft you should see a folder named "Custom". There you should find your plane.

Have fun!

volkert



wagen017 -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (8/31/2007 10:11:25 PM)

I have been playing a bit with the setup of the **** version. I think it flies much better now. Changed engine to get the weight down and put the CG way back (is now at y=75). Much better! (IMHO, of course [;)])



rmenke -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/3/2007 6:05:41 PM)

Pappajeff:

Thanks so much for the size. Started to order a A123 system, screwed up the order and bat people good enough to call. Ended up with a 4,000mah 3C as a quick decistion. May have to exchange once the bat and plane get here. On a home note, outside and inside completely painted. Floor covering people come tomarrow for a two day install per the general"s pics (partially colot blind), so what more can a gosh darn fem need? Oh yea, refinished kitchen cabnets and doors allready. Am old, tired and just want to fly my little birds fo a while. Strange world, saw in the obits that my flight instructor of 1949 died at 96. WWII fighter pilot in europe, frankly insane. Soloed in 2.5 hours just cause I love aircraft and was afraid of my instructior who was a forced landing nut. Would turn the engine off with one small area to land at at max. glide, somewhere. Never would return power until after the landing. Came home with cattails and tulies around the prop hub several times. Good times when you could buy a Aironca 65 for $500.00 and get flight instrction wet for $5.50 hr. I ramble. ENJOY



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/4/2007 3:13:21 PM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: wagen017

I have been playing a bit with the setup of the **** version. I think it flies much better now. Changed engine to get the weight down and put the CG way back (is now at y=75). Much better! (IMHO, of course [;)])



Volkert,

Thank you for the method to import the AJ's for the G-3 Sim. I also got a few dozen other interesting ones, too! Let me know when your AJ arrives and you start your build.



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/4/2007 3:26:11 PM)

Rmenke,

I think that we both know for sure that when we keep the GENERAL'S happy.........our peace factor improves drastically!!!!!!!! A 4000mAh (3S1P)
should work just fine, and you can avoid using a UBEC. If you decide to go with a 4S pack, then you will need a UBEC to properly power your servos. I still need to get some more info before I decide which route to go with battery set up.



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/4/2007 4:39:03 PM)

Having received the A30-10XL Hacker motor, I just could not resist installing it now. This 14 pole outrunner design creates massive torque and is perfect for 40-60 oz. 3D & Scale models using 3 to 5 cell Li-Po batteries. It's interesting to note that Hacker only makes motors for the RC
Hobby and the sole US Distributor, Aero-Model, Inc., tests every Hacker motor type that is sold in the States and every Hacker prototype that is being considered for production. Talk about personal knowledge and experience with your product, right? One other bit of info.....Hacker is constantly conducting research & development and every motor model is updated each year. So, the current A30 series motors are basically "new & improved" versions of an A30 motor from two years ago. Nice........very nice! For more Hacker info go to; www.aero-model.com.

Now, the install is basic and not a problem. As you can see, the A30 comes complete with mounting hardware, prop adapters & even extra "e" clips.



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/4/2007 4:44:30 PM)

You can drill holes in the firewall and install the motor using screws and nuts, but it seemed that "T" nuts would make for a more stable mounting.
Size 6/32 screws were just a little too large to fit the Hacker "X" mount, so size 4/40 screws & "T" nuts were used.



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/4/2007 4:53:15 PM)

Using the included "X" mount as the pattern for marking the screw holes, it was determined that the three motor wires should be below the motor, when installed, so it is easier to connect to the ESC when it is mounted on the motor cage in the path of the cooling air flowing in thru the cowl. So,
with that in mind, the Hacker motor is installed! Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh......Yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/4/2007 6:06:54 PM)

With the servos and control horns installed, it is time to install the pushrods. Fliton has included quality nylon control horns, carbon fiber pushrods, clevises (kwik links), EZ connectors and screws with the AJ. Using the Du-Bro 672 long, super strength servo arms and the EX connectors, the aileron pushrods installed easily and lined up perfectly at a 90 degree angle to the control surface.

Notice how the pivot point of the Du-Bro (#912 HD adjustable) control horns lines up exactly over the hinge line. This sure makes for accurate control and that is just what is needed for the 3D flying style of Devin McGrath.



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/4/2007 6:24:56 PM)

Also, the top molded washer of the control horn makes for a very clean and low air resistance top moving surface button.



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/4/2007 6:38:21 PM)

Those HD servo arms with the EZ connectors make for an easily adjustable length attachment to the carbon fiber rod. But, since carbon fiber does not like to be compressed, in this case by the holding screw of the EZ connector, put a few drops of thin CA (again, it's ZAP for me) on the carbon rod where it will be captured by the EZ connector. The CA will strengthen the carbon fibers at the compression point and make a stress
free atachment. Now, do not CA the carbon rod into the EZ connector, just CA the part of the rod that will be compressed by the screw of the EZ connector and, when dry, then insert the rod into the EZ connector and tighten the set screw.



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/4/2007 6:45:47 PM)

On to the elevator push rod! Basically, do the same thing that was accomplished with the ailerons. Refer to posts #72 & #73 if you need a refresher on the install of the #867 Du-Bro HD control horn.



Taildragger726 -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/5/2007 2:20:41 AM)

Looking great PJ !! My AJX got "Spectrum-ized" today! New X9303 today ! wOOt ! wOOt!



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/6/2007 2:12:40 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: Taildragger726

Looking great PJ !! My AJX got "Spectrum-ized" today! New X9303 today ! wOOt ! wOOt!



Tony,

You DOG! A 2.4 9303 Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.................Yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!! I really like my DX-7 and am in the process of converting everything over to Spectrum cause it's the only way to go. I guess that I'll have to get the 2.4 module for my 9303 when the conversions are finished. Either that or I'll just borrow Devin's for a year or so, right???????



rmenke -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/6/2007 7:27:23 PM)

PJ

You can send me your old JR receivers rather than chuck them. Will even pay postage!! I am very interested in the the radios, but invested in a JR 10X a few years ago and converted the fleet from the other brand. It has been so good, it may be a while before I convert again. ENJOY



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/7/2007 2:27:05 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: rmenke

PJ

You can send me your old JR receivers rather than chuck them. Will even pay postage!! I am very interested in the the radios, but invested in a JR 10X a few years ago and converted the fleet from the other brand. It has been so good, it may be a while before I convert again. ENJOY



Remnke,

Hey, the 10X is a beautiful radio and top of the line too! I'm not sure, but you might check Horizon and see if they have a 2.4 module for the 10X and that might be the route to consider. That is what I'm going to do with my 9303.



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/7/2007 2:51:21 AM)

Let's jump to the tailwheel which will actually be a part of the pull/pull rudder system. It just seemed better to have the tailwheel supported and anchored to the fuselage rather than to the rudder, so the Hobby-Lobby #023 tailwheel was used. The provided tailwheel would have worked just fine and, like most other options, it's just a matter of personal preference.



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/7/2007 3:03:31 AM)

Now, we can focus on the installation of the pull/pull rudder wires. At the servo, it's wise to use a longer arm and this allows the pull/pull action to function properly. The Fliton instruction booklet does a great job of describing the procedure and the photos are excellent. Just take your time and make sure that you tightly crimp the wire with the brass crimp connectors and make two loops of the wire through the crimp connector (as shown in the photos).



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/7/2007 3:21:23 AM)

At the rudder end of the installation, the Fliton instructions suggest to cross the wires. Viewed from the back of the plane, the left wire (at the servo arm) will exit the fuselage on the right side. The right wire (at the servo arm) will exit the fuselage on the left side. This makes sense, as the exit slots are close to the tail end of the fuse. If the exit slots were further towards the nose of the fuse, it would not be necessary to cross the wires. It's just a matter of parallel vs. transverse physics. (Ohhhhhhhhhhh.....Yeahhhhhhhhh! Look at the fancy Professor talk, right????)



papajeff -> RE: FLITON - AJ Extra 330S "Build thread" (9/7/2007 3:30:01 AM)

You may have noticed those little red crimps at the rudder horn, well it was out of necessity that those were used. Yes, I dropped those little brass things that worked so good at the servo arm. So, I had to McGiver something fast. Actually they are 18-22 electrical wire connectors found at Lowe's & home Depot. There were just cut in half and trimmed a bit and they sure worked perfectly.



Page: <<   < prev  2 3 [4] 5 6 7 8 9 10 11   next >   >>  

Valid CSS!




SITE MAP!   : :   FORUM RULES

© 2001 - 2007 24-7 RC, LLC, all rights reserved.
1.796875