RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop  
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/19/2007 10:28:46 PM   
karl thomas



Posts: 142
Joined: 5/4/2007
From: basildonessex, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		hi, sorry to but in but i was wondering what blades are best for simple 3d flight loop de loops rools inverted i just wanted to see what you guys think
oh and also the ruddr seems slow to respond what should i do, karl


_____________________________

i love flying
and driving mt savage x ss

(in reply to Blusaber)
       Post #: 401

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/19/2007 10:35:37 PM   
crashcrash


 

Posts: 3959
Joined: 11/23/2006
From: St Louis, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: karlthomas

hi, sorry to but in but i was wondering what blades are best for simple 3d flight loop de loops rools inverted i just wanted to see what you guys think, karl


Woodie stock till you get good at it (LOL).

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what?

(in reply to karl thomas)
       Post #: 402

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/19/2007 10:36:46 PM   
karl thomas



Posts: 142
Joined: 5/4/2007
From: basildonessex, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		thanks and also the rudder seems slow to respond what should i do, karl


_____________________________

i love flying
and driving mt savage x ss

(in reply to crashcrash)
       Post #: 403

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/19/2007 11:09:35 PM   
crashcrash


 

Posts: 3959
Joined: 11/23/2006
From: St Louis, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: karlthomas

thanks and also the rudder seems slow to respond what should i do, karl


Check your belt tension first but it could be caused by a number of problems. I've had that problem here and there. If your belt is dropping half way off the guide during flight....that'll cause rudder problems and you'll never know it because as you spool down, the belt goes back to normal. The only way to catch it is to spool it up in your hand to full power, and bring it back down...watching your belt the whole time.

_____________________________

what?

(in reply to karl thomas)
       Post #: 404

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/19/2007 11:22:35 PM   
tbaus


 

Posts: 372
Joined: 2/1/2007
From: Georgetown, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Another possible problem with a slow rudder is the "fat" tail shaft. If the slider sticks, even a little, it will be worse under load. I had a fat spot in mine that I fixed by putting the tail feathering shaft in a drill and held an oiled whetstone to it until it was even and smooth. Rusty had to do that to the one he built for me and shared with me his method. If the slider is binding even a little, then the tail is slow to respond as the servo is fighting to move the tail blades.. Just a thought.

(in reply to karl thomas)
       Post #: 405

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/19/2007 11:30:54 PM   
crashcrash


 

Posts: 3959
Joined: 11/23/2006
From: St Louis, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: aland25

Crash...I really have enjoyed reading your comments, especially when you first started talking in this forum, regarding your Blade CP pro. My dad has one of those heli's and he feels the same way you do about them.

Thank-you for your comments...I am very new to upgrading my king 2, and was wondering if I need to make any modifications to the frame of my heli to allow the BL motor to fit...or is it a "drop-in".

Also, I have seen many posts talking about different pinions for the motor, some saw buy the esky pinions and others say buy the T-rex (with the set screw) pinions, which do you recommend?

Also, last question, what will I need to do the set up the esc? that is the only part that scares me. I am very unfamilar with that component.

Thanks again!



I've been so busy, I guess I just forgot the common politeness and gratitude. Thank you very much on the comments. Your Dad has a GOOD reason to feel the way he does about the Eflite Blade series. Even though the HBKII is superior in many ways...it has it's share of problems EXCEPT...they are easy fixes (LOL). Like I say...It's hard to defeat pi$$ poor engineering. A simple machine does not need that many variables that it becomes undependable/unreliable.With the right preperation, the HBKII is dependable and reliable and that's what makes it a winner in the micro heli circuit. E-Sky needs to pull their head out of their hind ends, and incorporate the fixes into the engineering (ARE YOU PEOPLE LISTENING ...E-SKY!).
1. Replace the stock junk motors with esky 3100kv brushless with a 25a ESC.
2. Move the main belt pulley UP 1/32" so the belt tracks straight thru the guide rollers and into the boom.
3. Stop using that brittle cheap plastic on the landing skids...use something a little more flexable
4. Incorporate a stronger filtration in the stock TX/RX that BLOCKS stray RF interference more agressively. Futaba has been doing it for YEARS, I've never had glitch from futaba.

Aghhhhhh.....I'm wasting my time here.

_____________________________

what?

(in reply to aland25)
       Post #: 406

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/19/2007 11:45:31 PM   
crashcrash


 

Posts: 3959
Joined: 11/23/2006
From: St Louis, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: tbaus

Another possible problem with a slow rudder is the "fat" tail shaft. If the slider sticks, even a little, it will be worse under load. I had a fat spot in mine that I fixed by putting the tail feathering shaft in a drill and held an oiled whetstone to it until it was even and smooth. Rusty had to do that to the one he built for me and shared with me his method. If the slider is binding even a little, then the tail is slow to respond as the servo is fighting to move the tail blades.. Just a thought.



It's quite a common problem to a degree...all 3 tail's I had were sticky.

_____________________________

what?

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       Post #: 407

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/19/2007 11:46:27 PM   
osterizer


 

Posts: 1564
Joined: 3/10/2007
From: Sykesville, MD, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Lilpilot13

aland25,

If you haven't already placed the order, go with the 3800kv motor instead of the 3900. Rusty has stopped carying the 3900 because they aren't begtter then the 3800. He has told em that the 3800kv motor has more power and run times.


That would be a shame-- the 3900 is a little less powerful than the 3800, and I personally like the latter. However, fitting the 3800 to the King requires modification to the main frame that weakens the frame and shortens its life. I flew the 3800 for a long time, but it isn't the right motor to be the only choice.

The JGF 400DH, OTOH, doesn't take any frame mods and runs cooler than the 3800 while putting out just as much power.

(in reply to Lilpilot13)
       Post #: 408

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/20/2007 12:42:41 AM   
snowbird6


 

Posts: 12
Joined: 6/21/2007
From: cranberry township, PA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Blusaber


quote:

ORIGINAL: snowbird6


quote:

ORIGINAL: ezveedub


quote:

ORIGINAL: snowbird6

What's wrong with my Esky brushless ESC (EK1-0350)?

All the sudden my ESC has stopped working! Normally when I power in on, I will hear 3 beeps (means no brake): B B B
Now when I power it on, I hear: BBB BBB BBB BBB (4 times, 3 quick beeps), and the motor is not turning anymore.
I disconnected the motor wires: same sequence of beeps.

The manual does not mention about this beep code at all. Does anyone run into problem? How do I get out of this mode? or is the ESC is dead? (my bad luck - only got this set from Rusty for about a month).



Sounds likes you have break enabled (should be). Like someone said earlier, place throttle stick at highest point with Tx on, then plug in the battery (sounds crazy, but thats the programming mode). Once Heli is on, bring stick to lowest point and see if the sound beeps come back to Bi Bi Bi. I am unsure though how to switch the brake on/off function though. You don't want that on because you will most likely strip your main gear if you engage it. Also, when I disconnect the motor wires only, I get no beeps at all. It seems to detect if the motor is connected or not.


I tried to put it into programming like you said (also described in the manual), but there is no sound at all. The only time the ESC puts out that weird beep sequence is when I power on with minimum throttle. The beep sequence is total different from what described in the manual:
- Normal mode without brake: Bi Bi Bi
- with brake: BiBi BiBi BiBi
- my ESC: BiBiBi BiBiBi BiBiBi BiBiBi

It looks like only Esky can explain this code. Anyone knows how to contact Esky support?



Hi

Any chance you accidentally have the Idle up switch on?

Gary


Gary, you hit the nail on the head! I left the idle up switch on in the TX and that is what the sound the ESC puts out when turning on in idle up mode!!!
I felt like an idiot, but I want to humbly thank everyone on the forum for your help.

(in reply to Blusaber)
       Post #: 409

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/20/2007 1:07:32 AM   
crashcrash


 

Posts: 3959
Joined: 11/23/2006
From: St Louis, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: snowbird6


quote:

ORIGINAL: Blusaber


quote:

ORIGINAL: snowbird6


quote:

ORIGINAL: ezveedub


quote:

ORIGINAL: snowbird6

What's wrong with my Esky brushless ESC (EK1-0350)?

All the sudden my ESC has stopped working! Normally when I power in on, I will hear 3 beeps (means no brake): B B B
Now when I power it on, I hear: BBB BBB BBB BBB (4 times, 3 quick beeps), and the motor is not turning anymore.
I disconnected the motor wires: same sequence of beeps.

The manual does not mention about this beep code at all. Does anyone run into problem? How do I get out of this mode? or is the ESC is dead? (my bad luck - only got this set from Rusty for about a month).



Sounds likes you have break enabled (should be). Like someone said earlier, place throttle stick at highest point with Tx on, then plug in the battery (sounds crazy, but thats the programming mode). Once Heli is on, bring stick to lowest point and see if the sound beeps come back to Bi Bi Bi. I am unsure though how to switch the brake on/off function though. You don't want that on because you will most likely strip your main gear if you engage it. Also, when I disconnect the motor wires only, I get no beeps at all. It seems to detect if the motor is connected or not.


I tried to put it into programming like you said (also described in the manual), but there is no sound at all. The only time the ESC puts out that weird beep sequence is when I power on with minimum throttle. The beep sequence is total different from what described in the manual:
- Normal mode without brake: Bi Bi Bi
- with brake: BiBi BiBi BiBi
- my ESC: BiBiBi BiBiBi BiBiBi BiBiBi

It looks like only Esky can explain this code. Anyone knows how to contact Esky support?



Hi

Any chance you accidentally have the Idle up switch on?

Gary


Gary, you hit the nail on the head! I left the idle up switch on in the TX and that is what the sound the ESC puts out when turning on in idle up mode!!!
I felt like an idiot, but I want to humbly thank everyone on the forum for your help.




LOL......welcome to the club. Man, that's had to happen to everyone at least once.


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what?

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       Post #: 410

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/20/2007 1:25:56 AM   
aland25


 

Posts: 197
Joined: 8/19/2007
From: Shalimar, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Thank-you very much for your comments crash.
I did order the 3900, so I hope it works ok.
I am going to contact Betapilot.
Does he have a website?

(in reply to crashcrash)
       Post #: 411

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 8/20/2007 2:00:14 AM   
crashcrash