RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop  
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/8/2008 8:20:04 PM   
hamid_fireage


 

Posts: 100
Joined: 4/8/2008
From: Tehran, IRAN
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Thanks Rusty - I will check your specs and try to make one. You and other people on this thread helped me a lot. If I cant install a little motor on little a plastic mount then it would be better try not to fly any helis.

I will send you the results.
Cheers.

(in reply to betapilot)
       Post #: 4851

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/8/2008 8:55:32 PM   
Rosebud6


 

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Joined: 1/6/2008
From: Auburn Hills, MI, USA
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You should get rid of that press on pinion and get one with aset screw. My first pinion on the HBK2 was a press on and its shorter so you have to get it perfect (plus once you put it on, you cant really adjust it like you can with a set screw pinion.) Just my 2 cents.

(in reply to hamid_fireage)
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/8/2008 9:14:39 PM   
crashcrash


 

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From: St Louis, MI, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Rosebud6

You should get rid of that press on pinion and get one with aset screw. My first pinion on the HBK2 was a press on and its shorter so you have to get it perfect (plus once you put it on, you cant really adjust it like you can with a set screw pinion.) Just my 2 cents.


Just some useless info here: Any pinion (except the steel ones) are either brass or bronze, bronze being harder. Now, press-on's or set screw...doesn't matter. If they become loose, and you can't make them stay put... Remove the pinion from the shaft without destroying it (if possible). Bond some solder to the motor shaft about where the pinion will be, then bond solder to the top of the pinion (make a puddle on top of the pinion and be careful NOT to have the solder run into the splines). Then heat the motor shaft till the solder is liquid on the shaft and with a pair of needle nose pliers...put the pinion on and apply heat to the pinion till it starts to slde on. eventually, there will be enough heat on the pinion and the shaft to slide the pinion down to the desired position. When it's where you want it, remove the heat and continue holding till the solder cools enough to let go of the pinion...allow to cool to room temp. I've done this on pinions that the set screw stripped, and it is removable to allow the installation of a new pinion, the pinion NEVER slips or moves again...unless you add heat. The heat factor isn't that bad on the motor, and the pinion acts like a heat sink while installing it. Unless you have considerable soldering skills....I don't recommend trying it. I'm a mechanic and welder by trade, I can braze, solder, weld about anything if I have to.

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what?

(in reply to Rosebud6)
       Post #: 4853

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/9/2008 7:34:00 AM   
betapilot


 

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Joined: 5/8/2007
From: arcadia, OK, USA
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Here is a pic of the one I did using an hdx tail boom, and one I did using an Eastman shaft. I will post a pic in a minute if I can find it of the falcon boom on a king with the upgrade I just did recently on a boom extension.

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_____________________________

Rusty
Castlerock Hobbies

(in reply to funflier)
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/9/2008 8:43:19 AM   
hamid_fireage


 

Posts: 100
Joined: 4/8/2008
From: Tehran, IRAN
Status: offline
thanks crash and rosebud6 - My first effort is to make the motor mount. Then going to buy a removable pinion.

I know a little electronics and have three sets of 25W, 40W and 60W solder iron, and have a solder sucker too. But i dont know if the 63sn/37pb solder would stick on brass.

Another thing is; if I lift up the motor by a 2mm spacer then the motor wont hit the front servo horn?


< Message edited by hamid_fireage -- 7/10/2008 11:45:05 PM >

(in reply to crashcrash)
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/9/2008 10:05:06 AM   
funflier


 

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From: South City, CA, USA
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I notice the hdx300 uses a 40t main pulley so a 43 tooth is going to be a better ratio only by 3 teeth but thats still in the ball park.

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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/9/2008 10:08:31 AM   
funflier


 

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Crash thats a heck of a long discription of sweat soldering it on

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(in reply to crashcrash)
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/9/2008 10:13:39 AM   
funflier


 

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I thought the hdx boom was 9mm. I have what I thought was one here and it measures about 9mm but its only about 275mm long or so and thats too short isnt it. Eastman shaft thats the arrow shaft? From Walmart? Neat as I am going into a Walmart today I will look in sporting goods maybe I can buy just one

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(in reply to betapilot)
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/9/2008 10:16:42 AM   
funflier


 

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I can make my 8.08 fiberglass boom into 9mm OD by putting some hard sleeve fiber reinforced pvc heatshrink on it, that will take it up to 9mm as I was testing some on one end of a boom where it went into the frame (made it too big).

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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/9/2008 10:34:32 AM   
crashcrash


 

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From: St Louis, MI, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: funflier

Crash thats a heck of a long discription of sweat soldering it on



LOL...when you're actually doing it...it gets a little intense. If you get a cold solder joint, you know it quickly after you spool up. I've had the solderjoint give out, motor goes like crazy, pinion barley turns....heli lands quickly too.

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what?

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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/9/2008 10:42:44 AM   
funflier


 

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a welder that made a cold solder joint... noo way
oh wait I did that once on a copper pipe that I didn't clean, lucky I hadn't closed up the wall, one little tiny pee of water so fine you could hardly see it. Would have playes havic with the drywall in about a week.

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(in reply to crashcrash)
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 7/9/2008 10:52:06 AM