Posts: 66
Joined: 10/18/2006 From: Toms River, NJ, USA Status: offline
How tight should the nuts be when replacing the feathering shaft? I wonder if that has anything to do with the blades not tracking correctly. It goes from too low to too high and vise verse.
Posts: 116
Joined: 8/9/2008 From: x, FL, USA Status: offline
The shaft nuts should be as tight as possible without binding the rocking of the blades/flybar. You should not be able to move the tip of the blades up and down, but the blades should rock back and forth easily. Not too tight, not too loose. Grease the feathering shaft and orings with lithium grease.
You can't get the tracking perfect because the adjustment does not have enough resolution. Get some titanium turnbuckles to fix it.
Posts: 116
Joined: 8/9/2008 From: x, FL, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Tommyjoking
My Elf finally took a dump this morning and the front bearing destroyed itself (yea it was getting loose). I took a (too small) walkera bearing and made it work, I don't expect the fix to last too long. Between the two ESKY motors, the 3800 vs. 3900, the 3800 is heavier. Heavier usually means more windings and power and costs much more......Which one of these motors should I get for backup? I.E. which is truly the most powerful? Should I just spend the xtra bux and get another Elf 4200? BTW what does "prepositive" mean? Will it work with an elf esc? I have soft/hard timing options.
for reference: I am running the elf 4200kv (hah yea right) with an 11t pinion and it seems like it has just enough power.
Posts: 353
Joined: 1/6/2008 From: Auburn Hills,
MI, USA Status: offline
I had major problems with my tracking a while back. Ended up being the blades (new out of package). Put on the extreme plastics and it cleared it up. Not sure if it was because of the extra weight or just a bum set of blades but it tracks great now. A little heavy for any type of 3d flight but great for sport flying.
Posts: 1564
Joined: 3/10/2007 From: Sykesville,
MD, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: eaterofdog You can't get the tracking perfect because the adjustment does not have enough resolution. Get some titanium turnbuckles to fix it.
People keep saying this. You do not need turnbuckles to track the blades correctly.
Posts: 553
Joined: 5/8/2007 From: arcadia,
OK, USA Status: offline
100% agreed, unless you are a pro it is a waste of money. Tracking is not a science and the reality is if your blades track at 30% throttle, they most likely will be off at 60% throttle so you track where you fly and with a king you get it as close as possible. Blades being out of track by a couple of mm or 1/4 inch or so is not going to be the difference between a flyable heli and a non-flyable heli, I do not even sweat mine unless it is 1/2 inch or more. The problem of one blade being too high and then too low is either a bad set of blades, a broken part, or you are adjusting both blades instead of just one. I personally track down to the low blade but the truth is it does not matter which way you go. I read a post earlier (the last page or so) where someone mentioned the scissor arms and even showed a picture, I have found that to be a culprit in many cases, it is a place to start if you feel it is a broken part.
Joizee - I know it is a stretch but this was the only pic I could find with those lights (spots) that shows in the daylight how bright they are, this pic was taken in the day with a flash and they are still that bright, lol. The flash did not even disrupt the reflection off of the hood from the A-pillar spot light, this car is as bright in a dark hallway as my mini-mag light, lol.
Posts: 66
Joined: 10/18/2006 From: Toms River, NJ, USA Status: offline
It used to track perfectly until I had to replace the feathering shaft. I took the top portion of the head apart and nothing else was broken. Tried different blades too. When I used a lighter battery the "red" blade was low but when I used a heavier battery the "red" blade became high. At this point I am able to rock the blade grips up and down. May be the feathering shaft nuts are not tight enough. Isn't the purpose of the o-ring/damper to allow for some movement?
Posts: 537
Joined: 5/10/2007 From: Martinsville,
IN, USA Status: offline
2 things have have found on the king2 that. 1. The tightness of the feathering shaft nut is almost as much as a art form as flying the heli is. 2. sometimes the threads on the feathering shaft are off just a hair. and it can drive you nuts. Try another shaft if you have one and see if that fixes it.
Other things are. I have had blade that i had trouble trying to track. Also make sure your dampers are not wore out. What rusty says is true being a little out of track is no big deal. But you want it to be the best that it can be when I was starting out I wanted to be sure what was my fault from flying and what was not.
_____________________________
Gravity Sucks.......... Trex 450, Century Hawk .30, Honey bee king 2 Dx7
Posts: 212
Joined: 8/5/2006 From: Beebe,
AR, USA Status: offline
Eaterofdog THx man. I figured the elf was just another sticker on a cheap motor....I got it used on trade but a true 4200 should be scary head speed on the King with an 10t and I am running an 11. It lasts good tho $12-13 is a good price for a learning motor.
Since I don't hear a lot of complaints on the esky motors I reakon I should get a 3800 and go for better torque.
BTW after a bad crash this morning (very little damage-strangely). I said screw the training gear...I do not know why I kept them on so long except for fear I guess. It sure flew better ....landing/takeoff was a snap...no biggie. I still have not done FF on side yet but I did pull a few pirouettes.
Posts: 116
Joined: 8/9/2008 From: x, FL, USA Status: offline
Tommy, I'd suggest a 3500kv motor, this will allow you to use a 12t pinion. The 12t moves the motor back from the servos and allows you to run SG90 or HXT900 servos without interference problems. Swang Hobby has 3500s like the one in my photo for about $15 shipped.
Posts: 268
Joined: 11/27/2006 From: Maple Shade,
NJ, USA Status: offline
i had a question about dampers a couple of pages ago. whether or not there were stiffer ones available? also, are you supposed to tighten the nuts all the way in? i stop tightening them in as soon as they get to the point where the blade grips no longer slide on the shaft. that makes them rock up and down a LOT. i'm guessing that i'm not doing it enough?
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop - 
