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ORIGINAL: betapilot

Pics of the tail upgrade - careful when you do this, you must reverse gyro and rudder switch on tx. took me a minute to figure that one out, but man is the tail awesome now. pitch adjustment is made by moving the servo forward or backward, super easy. Well worth the money, feather shaft is super strong, no bends here. Also, check the canopy, fit perfect with no mods and almost no change to the cg. crappy pictures, I need a new camera.

Rusty

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ORIGINAL: Dave_E

ezveedub, where did you get the skids? Thanks, Dave.

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ORIGINAL: osterizer

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ORIGINAL: betapilot

Hey guys, I have been reading all the battery hype and it is not really that crucial. I run an eflite 10c 800 mah battery, in fact they are my favorite battery due to weight. They only last about 5-7 minutes real flight time, but the stock battery will do the same at about 7-9 minutes. A battery that has a high c rating will discharge faster and if you run it in a 1800 -2200 mah battery, the extra power will be used up lifting and keeping the extra weight in the air. The ideal battery for long life and flight times is a 10-12c MAX and 1200-1350 mah and nothing over 90 grams. Look at it like this, if you use the "bathtub analogy" it will become evident to you that overpowering your bird with a big battery is a waste of money and time. The voltage is your pipe and the pressure contained therein, the mah rating is capacity that the bathtub will hold, and the c rating is the size of the valve allowing the water in. Running a big battery is like putting a really big fuel tank in your truck and then adding a gas mileage chip to increase fuel pressure and then running extra large fuel lines and then throwing a trailer loaded down with bricks on the back, are you going to get better gas mileage? no, you are only going to burn more fuel. Large batteries are for large helis with lots more power that can overcome the weight . I am currently running a 430xl with 60a esc on one of my kings and I run it with the eflite, the stock, a dynam 1200mah 12c, and an electrafly 910 mah 12c. All of these batteries will fly perfect for 5-7 minutes before the esc shuts it down from heat. I speak from experience here, not myth or braggart rights, and I can guarantee you that running these massive batteries will only create more heat, more wear and tear, and may extend your flight times by 2-3 minutes at best. Keep in mind the greater the discharge capacity, the greater the heat and your esc is designed to shut down at a given temp range, you should not fly a good battery more than 70% depleted anyway if you want it to last. I only fly my batteries for five minutes max anyway, my batteries usually last me two years pretty easily and will almost always meet their cycling capabilities running them that way. Heat and weight are our enemies and you should do everything possible to keep those variables in check, this is not drag racing guys, helis don't react well to force, they prefer finesse.

betapilot-- agree with much of the above, but whatever you do the King will burn between 60 and 90 Watts in hover, regardless the current rating of the battery. What drives the power used is not the current capability of the battery but rather the powertrain drag, the weight it's trying to accelerate, and the maneuvers you do (how much acceleration you're demanding). The current capacity of the battery has nothing to do with how fast it discharges; however, the larger the battery capacity, the more it usually weighs, but some buck the trend; my current favorites are the Thunder Power ProLite 1350s-- at 80g they are the greatest, but the MegaPower 1350s at 100g fly well, too.

If you're running the same heli with the same motor with the same flight profile, head speed, and so forth, you'll get the same current draw no matter what current the battery can supply.

You should choose your battery such that it doesn't weigh too much, it fits in the airframe, and it can supply sufficient current. A good rule of thumb is to not use more than 75% of the battery's current capacity; a 1000mAh 10C battery, at 7.5A is only good for hovering. A 1350mAh 15C can be relied on to put out 15A, which is good for moderate aerobatics. 3D in the King 2 can require 20A, so you'd be looking for at least a 20C if you were using 1350s.

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ORIGINAL: sdmahr

ezveedub,

I looked all over for the 2x5x2 bearing and cannot find them where I don't have to buy 10 to get some. I finally settled on trying a 2x5x2.5 which I could buy inexpensively in any quantity I wanted. I think from your pictures an extra .5mm will fit in there. If not, I'll dremel a little relief to make it work. So, I'll be trying a flanged bearing thats 2x5x2.3 and a plain shielded roller thats 2x5x2.5

Is yours still working O.K. ? I like the fix you have posted here and hope it is still working well for you as I'm about to dive in and mod BOTH of my HBKII's.

Thanks for sharing,

Scott

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ORIGINAL: ezveedub
As for all the batteries mentioned, due these balance the helicopter CG? Are you running the heli tail heavy or adding weight to balance the CG? From my stand point the stock battery is just a bit small for size heli.