RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (Full Version)

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testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/9/2008 1:03:21 AM)

Nice setup.



BigGuyJT -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/9/2008 7:43:41 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: tevans55

Here is my latest B-25 modification...doesn't make it fly any better but it sure makes travel easier!

You sure have a nice rack!!!



modawg73 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/9/2008 4:36:49 PM)

That is Sweet!

I bought some PVC to make a carrier for fuse, never thought of making in for the wings! I may copy your idea!

Ken



testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/9/2008 8:58:51 PM)

Get that Fuselage rack done yet Ken? (I am looking for ideas)

I need a way to get my B-25 to the field without the hanger rash taking it down.
The add ons add a nice touch. But, My guess is that one bump the wrong way and off something goes.

I take 12 models to the field when I go. But, this one really needs more room than I want to give it.



To All:
How are others taking your B-25's to the field?
Any issues with the robart retracts?








modawg73 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/9/2008 9:10:19 PM)

Testfly,

Don't have my fuse rack yet. I may modify my plans to include wing racks. May just build two racks. I'll let you know when I get it built.

On the Robart front, I have had zero problems with them once I got the leaky T's fixed. Had plastic T's that wouldn't stop leaking. Switched to brass and all is good.

Just remember to tighten all the screws and use thread lock. The screws that hold in the struts weren't tightened enough, and I didn't use threadlock, and as a result I had the main gear turn out on the first landing. No damage, just ended my flying day.

Ken



testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/9/2008 9:29:44 PM)

Thanks Ken.

Any idea of the weight I will add when I install the retracts? I am at 14 lb 15 oz now without them.
But as good as this one flys. It should have the retracts. So I bit the bullet and also ordered a longer front strut so I could mount a 3" nosewheel and will add 4" main wheels.



testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/11/2008 1:21:07 AM)

Never mind about the weight of the retracts.
I had a set sent to me over night. Never used robarts before and now I see why the ones I have seen seam to be fast in movement. I guess if you want them to lock up and down, you will need to speed them up a little.

Has anyone installed air retracts and have them work smooth up and down?

I made a few changes when I added the details to mine.

Here are some images after I made a few flights this morning. (I will install the retracts next week)

BTW the last 2 images show the issue with the color not matching. Because the model flys so well, I can live with it.



tevans55 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/11/2008 1:48:23 AM)

Testfly-

I am using Century Jet retracts in my B-25. They move smooth and slow and not all at the same rate. I am using their adjustable air valve. The main reason I like their retracts is that they do not lock into position so that on extremely rough landings they will give just enough to absorb some impact but I have never had them collapse. I think it is a smart design because it keeps wings, mounting blocks and struts from getting torn up.



raveon -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/11/2008 12:44:13 PM)

Dear Tevans 55
I have had pilots for my b25 from century jets but not retracts. In England where i live robart retracts are over 300 pounds how much do they cost in the usa and would you advise me to get some
Best Regards Ray



tevans55 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/11/2008 4:29:02 PM)

Raveon-

I have both rotating and standard retracts from Century Jet and I would highly recommend both. The blue table photo is a photo of my B-25 retracts from CJ and I think they are about $350 US. That included everything...air lines, air valve, line connectors, etc. I also like that they are all metal...no plastic and the inner strut shaft is guaranteed for life. That is the shaft that runs into the air cylinder. They will replace that shaft even if you crash. I like that. I have included a closeup shot of my Corsair rotating retracts to show the latest improvement to their retracts is that they are using button head cap screws and bolts on the oleos for improved strength and durability. I think Century Jet retracts are an excellant value when I compare price, durability and service. That's just my opinion and I have yet to have one fail. I have spent a lot of time talking with the guys at the factory. They used my B-25 to make the prototype retracts for the H-9 B-25. I really like the improvement I have seen made in the last 2 years to improve durability while trying to keep the cost affordable for an all metal retract.



efly726 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/12/2008 1:04:08 PM)

First flight Hanger 9 B25 electric conversion
eFlite Power 46s
Castle 80 Amp ESC
TP 3850 4s V2
13x8 APC counter rotating props
Robat retracts and wheels
Cockpit kit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-z1d0mma364



testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/13/2008 11:41:41 PM)

I am now replacing the stock gear with robarts and adding 3 blade props. (M-A 12X8 ) Hoping to fly the setup this weekend. Here is a video update on my B-25.

http://www.seabreezeparachutes.com/b-25/h-9-b-25-retracts.wmv



Charles_e_bates -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/14/2008 4:24:04 AM)

Well this is just more of the work on my B-25[:-]



efly726 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/14/2008 1:57:34 PM)

Great job Charles - you're really going to enjoy flying this model.



testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/16/2008 5:22:07 AM)

Well, I have a bit of news about my Hanger 9 B-25 to report.
(See Post 465 for flight videos)

You may have seen that I was using all of the runway when taking off. (Always a good thing with a new airplane)
The motors just did not have the power I was wanting. (At only $30.00 each (new) I was not complaining mind you.)
In fact I liked the scale like flight. Until....... I was taking off the other day and the prop hit a ant mound. This knocked loose a few magnets. Thinking I had bent the motor shaft and having a backup motor on hand. I swapped out the motor and 45 minutes later it was in the air again. Man I am really enjoying this airplane. Deep breathe....

So long story short, The plane deserves to have retracts so I ordered a set thinking in the back of my mind that I may need a little more power because of the weight I will add when installing the retracts. So, I have a few Rimfire motors that should offer a little more power than I have now. I changed out one of the motors and did a run-up to check the performance and at 3/4 throttle I loose power and hear a shutter sound. I have heard it before. It is the sound you hear when the magnets come loose in the outrunner motor.

Soooooooo....
In the house I go and make a call to a company I ran across a while back. Told them what I had and that I wanted the best I could get with a little power to spare. I had a 80 amp controller, and had just got in some 3 blade 12 X 8 props and 8) 5s 5000 lipos. I wanted a motor that would use the items I had just received. Well, the guy told me what he thought would work and then took a few minutes and asked someone else what they thought. I ordered he shipped and the next day I had 2 new motors.

Long story short here. I now have 2 Hacker A50-10s motors mounted with 3 blade 12X8 and will fly on 2/ 5s 5000 lipos.
Run-up in the yard says it has a ton of power. I think it will be airbore in about 75' off grass. I am looking forward to the first flight with this new power setup and the added retracts. I expect it will surprise a lot of the guys (that have seen it fly with the first power setup) when I do a carrier takeoff. [8D]

Here are a few more pictures...

The last 2 images are of the nosegear bay area.
The important part in the picture is of the plastic tubes used to keep the steering linkage form catching on the strut. The plastic tube is set off the wall about 1/8" and the linkage is placed between it and the bay wall. As the gear comes up the slack in the linkage could catch on the strut so you need to do something to help prevent this. In the book they tell you to use a rubber band. My thought is that this could fail at any time so I was looking for a way to solve this issue without having to keep watch for a rubber band that might be about to break.
Testing the idea on the bench has shown it to be very effective. Do not over look this issue. Do something as the strut will catch the wire.
Mine did as I was testing the gear after the install. Made me sick thinking about that happening while I was flying. So I thought long and hard as to how I was going to deal with the issue. One thing I knew for sure was that it was not going to be with a rubber band.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]



testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/17/2008 7:23:46 AM)

New flight video with my latest setup using two Hacker A50 10s with 3 blade M-A 12 X 8 props.
Takeoff was at 50% power and no elevator used to rotate.

http://www.seabreezeparachutes.com/b-25/b-25-10-16-08.wmv

Enjoy the flight.



modawg73 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/17/2008 1:32:18 PM)

Testfly,

Great videos. I love the way you have shown pix and videos. makes it kind of like we are sharing the same experience. Really cool.

I had my bird out two days this week, 5 flights total. Mostly worked on touch and goes, and stalling tendencies. I was a little surprised at the stall handling. She dropped a wing and went straight down, nose pointing at the ground. took about 100 - 150' of altitude to recover. I wasn't in a hurry, so I would suspect that I could pull out much quicker if I applied more power and had high rates on. Also, I had to try real hard to get her to stall. She flies pretty slowly with the flaps down.

I agree with your last graphic on the movie. She is a great bird to fly. Lots of fun, looks great, sounds awesome with the twin 4-strokes.

A couple of questions for the general audience.

I have twin .62's and it is not at all overpowered. Flies pretty scale-like. One thing I am considering doing is going from two 13x6 MA props to two 13x6 APC props. The only problem with APC is that they are grey. Anyone know of any black composite props? I looked at Mezjliks web site, and they don't come smaller than 16".

Also, I find full flaps are very difficult to fly with. I don't feel like I have enough elevator authority, and I have to put the flaps up in order to gain any airspeed on a touch and go. Anyone else experienced this? Are you using full flaps? Only on Landing? I may have to add some elevator throw if I am using them.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Ken



tevans55 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/17/2008 4:11:03 PM)

modawg73-

I am painting most of my props, both wood and composite with black Krylon paint. Sticks well, drys fast and it's durable and fuel proof.

My plane had a similar situation with a fuzzy feeling elevator with flaps deployed. I had to reduce the amount of flaps and all is well now. It lands a lillte faster but certainly manageable.



modawg73 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/17/2008 4:21:01 PM)

Tevans,

Thanks for the tips. Sounds like a plan. I think I"ll have to paint some props!

Ken



tevans55 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/17/2008 4:33:20 PM)

By the way, I have also used Rustoleum but it takes forever to dry.



testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/21/2008 10:33:21 AM)

Here are a few more images of my now completed B-25. It flys great.
The link is to a URL showing how I air up the robarts.

http://www.seabreezeparachutes.com/b-25/robart-air-up.wmv




testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/21/2008 10:53:09 AM)

The wing rack was a result of images posted by Tevans55 of his.
Thanks for sharing.



tevans55 -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/21/2008 2:28:02 PM)

Very nice wing rack! Like you I added a wing tube holder under my handle...the foam is the perfect size.

OK all you B-25 rack makers show us your creations.



testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (10/21/2008 3:16:23 PM)

I should note that I offset the nacelles because I was using 3 blade props and it makes it easier to take the wings out of the rack.

I received a request for more info on the wing rack so this should make it easy to build.
http://www.seabreezeparachutes.com/b-25/b-25-rack.jpg



testfly -> RE: New Hangar 9 B-25 (11/2/2008 3:36:00 AM)

Here is a update on the B-25. I have about 60 flights on it now and it is a great flying airplane.

I now use full flaps and about 50% power at takeoff. It rolls about 75' and lifts off on it's own.
After takeoff I retract the gear and raise flaps to 20 degrees.
At 100' I pull flaps up and lower power to 40% for the flight.

8 1/2 minutes later on the down wind leg I drop the gear and then 20 degrees flaps.
Then it's full flap and hold 30% power never letting the tail get below the wing.
As I clear the end of the runway I lower the power and settle in for the roll out.
Flaps up and taxi back.
A 9 minute flight uses about 3900 mah of a 5000 mah 5 cell. (I run 2 in parallel)

I have made a few changes to my wing setup in order to cut down on the time it takes to get the model ready for the
first flight of the day. Now the model can be setup in less than 3 minutes.

1) Insert the wing tube and join both wing panels together.
2) Connect the power lead to both wing panels.
3) Lay wing in the saddle feed power lead forward and pass two air lines through the left wing holes to bottom side of the left wing.
4) Connect the two 9 pin plugs and four air lines.
5) Install the wing brace and wing mounting bolts.
6) Mount the bottom hatch and the model is ready to pre-flight.

See the notes on the images.



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