Posts: 13179
Joined: 5/10/2002 From: Kalamazoo, MI, USA Status: offline
Could you do us a favor and downsize your pictures? Al you have to do is use the "Reply" button up here ^ and it will take you to an advanced screen where you can upload your shots. Either that or downside them in your Photobucket account. Thanks.
Now to the boat. Those trim tabs are huge! They're made for a much larger gas powered boat so you should be able to knock about half of the end off them just behind the turnbuckles. With a guy in London, I'm guessing either Randy Rapedius or Mike Hallam. Am I close? Randy is really into OPS engines.
Posts: 87
Joined: 5/8/2007 From: london, ON, CANADA Status: offline
well i'm well on my way. first order of business was to cut down the trim tabs. (mike had also advised this) the only reason i purchased the large tabs was because they fit the exsisting holes. do you think there still too large?
so i have a butt load of questions for you guys. this is my first gas powered boat. and the engine didnt come with installation instructions. i spent last night searching for info and i'm still no further ahead. if you could point me in the dirrection of some good reading material specificly involving the installation/operation of nitro engines, i'd appreciate it.
first the fuel cells. i wasn't 100% sure about connecting the 2. is this right? fuel cell 1-fuel line>vent-fuel cell 2- fuel line>carb?
connecting the throttle. ok so this is wher i'm tottally lost. this is what i have to work with.
if i can i'd like to keep the servo's in the same place they where before. so what do you think my best course of action is to connect the throttle? what else do i need to purchase?
i also tried flipping the carb. the fly wheel and exaust get in the way. does the position of the carb matter? does it need to sit level or in at a specific angle? also is there an extension i could use to raise the carb 1/2" or so to clear the fly wheel? looking online i notice alot of the flywheels on the ops motors have a set screw. mine doesn't. do i nee to drill/tap this hole to add a set screw? if not why do some have the set screw? thank for all your help.
btw is the size of the pic's ok? (used the message board setting on pb) or should i go even smaller?
< Message edited by icyuod2 -- 7/5/2007 2:56:11 PM >
Posts: 13179
Joined: 5/10/2002 From: Kalamazoo, MI, USA Status: offline
Looking good so far. What I didn't see (or you haven't gotten that far yet) is that the vent line on the left tank needs to be hooked up to the tuned pipe so that the fuel system will be pressurized. You've done a great job so far and especially in such a short amount of time!
Posts: 87
Joined: 5/8/2007 From: london, ON, CANADA Status: offline
you know i've had so much fun restoring this boat, when i drove by the house that had the garage sale, and saw the other boat still lent up against the side of the house. i just had to stop and spend another dollar.
this boat is much worse for wear. its probably alittle more than i'm equipt to deal with at the moment. i figured with alittle work it could be repaired or usedas a mold. if not, i'm only out a dollar. the new boat is 36" although it looks like it was a 30" model with a 6" extension built on the back.
its a fiberglass hull with wooden top. any ideas which model it is?
< Message edited by icyuod2 -- 7/5/2007 4:43:14 PM >
Posts: 13179
Joined: 5/10/2002 From: Kalamazoo, MI, USA Status: offline
You'll add a fuel pressure nipple just ahead of the widest part of the tuned pipe. I use those from D-Bro but there are others that you can use. GS Racing makes some that come out at a 90 mdegree angle but the threads are metric. With the tank that you have to pressurize first, you don't have far to go with the line.
Sorry, I don't know what the other hull is. It does look like it was lengthened in a way but with the slight taper going forward, it wouldn't have been easy to do.
Posts: 1637
Joined: 10/2/2002 From: Portage,
IN, USA Status: offline
The two drilled holes in the flywheel are for holding the flywheel from turning when you tighten the flex hex by inserting a bent coat hanger (shown below) or a straight center punch. Keep the stubs short so when you put the ends in the holes they shoulder out in the hole, or they will bend. Try and make them the same length as the hole depth - measure and cut after its bent up.
The throttle ball on the carb will need a plastic ball cup, a throttle cable and sheath, and a threaded end will have to be soldered onto the cable.
Usually, the ball end set that you will need to buy has the brass threaded part that needs to be soldered. You're going to have to measure the ball size to match what cup size to use, unless the instructions point it out. If it is standard, look for Dubro....and if it is metric, you have to look in the car part section....most those are metric.
You'll have to run the throttle cable in a 90 degree fashion up to the carb so it pushes straight into it, or set up a 90 degree bellcrank and run two link bars. Anyway you do it, it looks like you'll need to glue and fuel proof a "standoff" off to the side of the carb to attach to. If running a flexable throttle cable, both ends of the casing has to be secured for the cable to slide like it should. Most RC cars has this bellcrank deal setup, so spy one of those out if they are in your hobby shop.
Everything else so far looks fine, the carb should be fine at the height that it's at, you just need to run your throttle cable now. Ask if any of this is unclear for you!
< Message edited by jetpack -- 7/6/2007 1:05:18 AM >
Posts: 87
Joined: 5/8/2007 From: london, ON, CANADA Status: offline
you guys are da bomb! after i posted, the flex wire throttle cable did accure to me. (had one on my small electric flyer) but i really wasn't sure about where and how to go about mounting it. the bellcrank is the perfect solution. thanks!
the exsisting throttle push rod had all the parts i need including a ball cup,threaded ends etc. the ball cup fit very snug and seems to be in good shape. its not at all a loose fit, and offers a fair amount of resistance when moved on the ball.
Posts: 1637
Joined: 10/2/2002 From: Portage,
IN, USA Status: offline
I have the same carb I'm going to be trying but I'm minus that ball arm and I've called both OPS importers with no results. I wonder next time your down by your buddy you bought the motor from if he could get his hands on one, or better yet what other current brand would fit that and can just pick it up locally or by mail order. I've even asked a couple times in the RC car forums with no answers. I'm stuck without one and don't know what would even fit it thats available off of any of the other car motors - I'm simply not exposed to any of that locally where I could ask to swap to try out.
Posts: 87
Joined: 5/8/2007 From: london, ON, CANADA Status: offline
mike (the owner of the store) is surposed to drop off a prop in the next couple of days. i'll call him this morning and see what he has.
how fast do you need one? i dont mind picking one up and dropping it in the mail (if he has one) but i would be sending it standard mail so it could take a week to get to you. if not i'm sure he'll know where to get them.
just so i know we're on the same page, (be being a noob and all) this is what your looking for right?
< Message edited by icyuod2 -- 7/6/2007 11:53:44 AM >
Posts: 1637
Joined: 10/2/2002 From: Portage,
IN, USA Status: offline
Yep, it's that ball arm that set screws (i think) onto the slide assembly on the carb where the ball end hooks up to. I've been hunting one for almost a year now with no luck. Not even a part number I could come up with. There's no hurry at all on it because I have an older OPS carb (the kind that looks like a square block of aluminum) to run on the motor I have - this would be a spare I have that I would like to try out. If he can even come up with what he knows works would be fine even, I could look for one around town here but if he has one I would be glad to pay the total!
Posts: 87
Joined: 5/8/2007 From: london, ON, CANADA Status: offline
jetpack, i spoke with mike this morning. he's gonna get on the horn and find out what the part no. is for the arm your looking for. if he can he's gonna order one for me (doesn't think it will be a problem)
one quick question, can the top of the engine be rotated 90* so the water intake/return run left to right instead of front to back?
< Message edited by icyuod2 -- 7/7/2007 3:49:52 PM >
Posts: 1637
Joined: 10/2/2002 From: Portage,
IN, USA Status: offline
The water jacket could be turned no problem, just back out the head bolts, turn it and evenly bring the head tightness back down. It's actually better if you do turn it because it will always hold some water with the engine tilted like it is. The head itself doesnt need to be turned but it wont hurt anything if it is. The head button is fully symetrical.
These boats never really stop and idle in the water, so it doesn't matter that much. Usually these are turned that way so the water line doesn't mess with the starting belt when your trying to start it.
I took my carb out and looked at it, and looking at your's in the picture, and the way mine looks, now I am not sure if that is the right horn or if it will fit on mine. Mine isn't blank on the end, it has a hole in it and the whole section unscrews from the slide barrel.
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RE: i'll buy that for a dollar! - 
