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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> HPI Racing >> HPI On-Road >> HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START
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HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/4/2007 3:59:36 AM   
civicphreak


 

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I have a brand new RS4 EVO+ and it won't start (First time). I'm a newbie to this hobby so please forgive me.

I set the car on a 2x4 wood block.

I know it's not the glow stick or plug: My glow stick is fully charged (24 hours), i tested the plug by removing it and putting it against the stick and it heats up


I followed the manual instructions:

1) Filled gas tank full , pressed the primer button until the gas pushes into the engine, then pressed it 2 times after that.
2) Inserted the glow stick
3) Used the roto start to spin (not more than 5 seconds)

It just doesn't crank and then gets stuck on subsequent starts.


Thinking that the engine is flooded, i removed the glow plug, used the rotostart to thrash some fuel out of the engine and replaced the plug back, executed same steps above to no success.



I've tried starting the car like 20 times already. Sometimes the fuel leaks out of the exhaust, so i empty the fuel engine, turn the car upside down to get it out of the exhaust or engine. Same thing, no success. The batteries and remote control have nothing to do with the car at this point right?



What the heck am I doing wrong??

Please help, thanks!

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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/4/2007 4:25:07 AM   
allenthen831


 

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sounds like its too too rich i might be wrong but try and lean it just ALITTLE 1/8 of a turn clockwise and try and see if that helps i may be wrong but atleast try it dont turn it too much 1/8

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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/4/2007 4:52:58 AM   
brokespokes31


 

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if it gets tight or stuck again , try crackn open the glow plug a tiny bit to releave some pressure , if it starts then re snug it just be very carefull with that roto start , i broke the crank the first time i used it on my evo and ive never used it since

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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/4/2007 5:15:13 AM   
civicphreak


 

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I noticed these videos, they try like 10 roto pushes before it starts, is this normal?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rpyie9ye0g


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSdQEv5zHMA



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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/4/2007 3:41:50 PM   
civicphreak


 

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Still not starting, help?

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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/4/2007 3:52:03 PM   
Flaming Tire


 

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Next time the motor locks up clear out the motor like you have been doing. Then hold the throttle wide open while you turn over the motor WITHOUT the glow plug ignitor on or the glow plug in. That should almost completly clear out the motor of excess fuel. Then re-install the glow plug. DON'T prime the engine this time. Put your glow plug ignitor back on and try to start it.

What you will be doing is trying to start it while its a little lean then once its started it will re-richen back to how it should be run. Leave your glow plug ignitor on the glow plug awhile after it starts to help burn the fuel. I hope this helps!

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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/4/2007 7:36:01 PM   
hpi apollo



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maybe this could help http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5517128/tm.htm


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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/4/2007 9:03:27 PM   
cnguyen831



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Use a heat gun and warm up the engine

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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/4/2007 11:46:13 PM   
civicphreak


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Flaming Tire

Next time the motor locks up clear out the motor like you have been doing. Then hold the throttle wide open while you turn over the motor WITHOUT the glow plug ignitor on or the glow plug in. That should almost completly clear out the motor of excess fuel. Then re-install the glow plug. DON'T prime the engine this time. Put your glow plug ignitor back on and try to start it.

What you will be doing is trying to start it while its a little lean then once its started it will re-richen back to how it should be run. Leave your glow plug ignitor on the glow plug awhile after it starts to help burn the fuel. I hope this helps!



Here's what i did to get it working before I even read this reply:



1) While the remote control and radios are all turned off, I pushed the servo arm that controls the throttle a little bit foward.
2) Inserted the glow stick and started the car, it started and it obviously roared a little more than idle (since the throttle was open)
3) Pushing the throttle arm back to factory settings, the car sputtered a little and died while idling


I then proceeded to adjust the idle screw to prevent it from dying.

For some reason, I cannot start this car with the radios or electronics on (I notice that when i do turn them on, they engage the brakes on the throttle, etc.)
I proceeded to follow the manual's instructions on breaking in the engine (1 tank on blocks, 2 tanks in circles)


Now the car starts ok with the electronics turned off, sometimes i can have them turned on (only if the engine has been hot or running will it easily start).



I still think there's a problem with the way my car starts (due to the electronic settings that pull the throttle).
Also, one of the ends on the EZ Start / Rotostart rod broke. Is this covered under warranty? All this excessive starting has taken a toll on the rod I guess.







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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/5/2007 5:38:20 AM   
civicphreak


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: brokespokes31

if it gets tight or stuck again , try crackn open the glow plug a tiny bit to releave some pressure , if it starts then re snug it just be very carefull with that roto start , i broke the crank the first time i used it on my evo and ive never used it since



Well it did break on the first day. It's a tiny cheap part. I don't understand how come they couldn't make that stronger (or a T style wrench). Do you know if HPI will replace it?

What I also don't like about it is how it's centered in the middle of the shocks and arms (it's hard to get that stick aligned in there, plus i'm finding out that it's shaving the paint and metal off the arms/springs).


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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/5/2007 12:58:26 PM   
SteveM


 

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HPI will most likely replace the starting wand on the Rotostart. Either phone or use their online email feature to contact them about the issue. They are pretty good when it comes to warranty support for their products.

Idle Speed:

The throttle stop screw or idle-speed screw (same thing) determines how far the carb barrel will be able to close when the servo is in the neutral position. You may have the throttle on your transmitter adjusted incorrectly which closes the carb completely on the motor. This would prevent the motor from starting properly and may also explain why you seem to be flooding the engine. There is an idle screw on the carb that you use to adjust the barrel in the carb itself so that it cannot be completely closed. Remove the air filter, turn on the transmitter and then the receiver and look down the carb. See the carb setting at the left in the picture below. You want the carb to look like the left most picture when you have the throttle on the transmitter in neutral. Applying full brakes should not change this setting but only activate the barkes themselves.


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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/5/2007 2:34:27 PM   
civicphreak


 

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From: , NM, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: SteveM

HPI will most likely replace the starting wand on the Rotostart. Either phone or use their online email feature to contact them about the issue. They are pretty good when it comes to warranty support for their products.

Idle Speed:

The throttle stop screw or idle-speed screw (same thing) determines how far the carb barrel will be able to close when the servo is in the neutral position. You may have the throttle on your transmitter adjusted incorrectly which closes the carb completely on the motor. This would prevent the motor from starting properly and may also explain why you seem to be flooding the engine. There is an idle screw on the carb that you use to adjust the barrel in the carb itself so that it cannot be completely closed. Remove the air filter, turn on the transmitter and then the receiver and look down the carb. See the carb setting at the left in the picture below. You want the carb to look like the left most picture when you have the throttle on the transmitter in neutral. Applying full brakes should not change this setting but only activate the barkes themselves.





Thank you for this diagram. The car is set exactly as shown on the far left when it is idle; however, when I pull the trigger to full throttle, the opening is only 3/4 of the hole. How would I adjust it so that it would open all the way at full throttle?

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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/5/2007 3:12:07 PM   
SteveM


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: civicphreak
Thank you for this diagram. The car is set exactly as shown on the far left when it is idle; however, when I pull the trigger to full throttle, the opening is only 3/4 of the hole. How would I adjust it so that it would open all the way at full throttle?


You might try using the throttle trim on the transmitter to adjust for full throttle.

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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/5/2007 3:21:37 PM   
Flaming Tire


 

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There is a screw that you can adjust to keep the carb open so that the car will idle. It should be listed in the manual. Here is a pic of the adjustment screw. When you adjust it, make sure your radio equipment is on so that you can see the carb position at idle.



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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/5/2007 6:48:04 PM   
civicphreak


 

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From: , NM, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Flaming Tire

There is a screw that you can adjust to keep the carb open so that the car will idle. It should be listed in the manual. Here is a pic of the adjustment screw. When you adjust it, make sure your radio equipment is on so that you can see the carb position at idle.





I've pretty much fixed the idling problem, but this doesn't fix the full throttle part. When i pull the trigger fully, the circle only goes 1/2 - 3/4 of the way out.

I tried extending the shaft connector on the server so it would get some more play, but according to the manual, it should only be like 43.5 mm out and I'm making it longer than it's supposed to be.

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RE: HELP! NEW CAR WON'T START - 7/5/2007 11:14:32 PM   
Flaming Tire


 

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You might have to take the servo arm off the servo and move it so that it has more range for the throttle. The length of the connector is no big deal a long as you still get good brake and idle.

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