PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishing a glass fusalage

PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishing a glass fusalage
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PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishin... - 2/23/2002 9:01:02 AM

Posts: 31
Joined: 12/13/2001
From: boynton beach, FL, USA
Status: offline

I'm finishing a glas fusalage and glassed foam wing ,buti've
gotten areas of orange peel and fish eyes. I have no problem or sign of this with the spray primer and several days of drying.
I realize that the humidity in Florida is a problem. ANY help
would be appreciated. THANKS, gene2586

PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishin... - 2/24/2002 6:25:39 PM

Posts: 2855
Joined: 12/29/2001
From: Brantford, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

I will describe what I do, it may give you some ideas.

The very first thing I do to glass fuselages is to wash them with warm soapy water. I then wipe them down with Automotive wax remover solution. The idea is to ensure all of the mold release is removed. I then do all of the work on it. Prior to priming I air blast all of the dust off, then wipe the fuselage with Automotive paint prep. This removes all hand grease and other dirt. I then wipe with a tack rag. I prime with Automotive primer. After sanding the primer I do the paint prep and tack rag thing again. Then final coat of choice. Basicly, I always prep and tack rag the surface before adding any coats, including trim.

For the glassed wing it is essential that the resin used, be it epoxy or polyester, has cured thoroughly. Some epoxies can take up to two weeks to cure. Some resins have a wax content that affects the cure process. After the wing glass has cured I use the same process as the fuselage.

If you are getting orange peel finishes, that usualy means that the spray paint is hitting the fuselage too dry and not leveling out.
This cold be not enough reducer in the paint OR the incorrect reducer for the room temperature. If a cold weather reducer is used in warm temperatures it will dry too quickly, even if the correct mix is used. Automotive reducers come in a variety of "drying" ranges.

I do have a can of paint prep that caused me all sorts of problems. The paint dried streaky and fish eyed all over. I had to wash it all off. I used a diferent prep (More Expensive) and it solved the problem. I always start with the underside of the tail to see what is going to happen.

Ed S

(in reply to gene2586)

Paint - 2/25/2002 5:49:29 AM

Posts: 17
Joined: 2/9/2002
From: Glouster, OH, USA
Status: offline

Ed has the right idea. Clean and dry is the key. not only what you are painting but the equipment you are using has to be clean and dry. There are many factors involved when a quality paint job is required. Having done custom airbrush and all over jobs on just about everything, I have found the most common reason for orange peel is the paint isn"t thinned enough and hits the surface in a glob, so to speak, and is too thick to flow out smooth. Try thinning a little more and increasing your air pressure about 5 to 8 lbs. For the Fish eyes, this is oil, grease, or silicone causing this. If you have already primed your surface it probibly is not comming from there. Check your air supply. Make sure you have a good filter system, use one air line for doing nothing but spraying paint, not blowing off surfaces, not airing up tires, or even blowing up the kids balloons, just spraying paint. Keep the ends sealed when not hooked up to your equipment.
hope this helps.

three wings and round engines.

wes

(in reply to gene2586)

PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishin... - 2/25/2002 6:52:15 AM

Posts: 813
Joined: 12/18/2001
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: offline

Ed is right on target. Make sure you remove any oil or dust particles from your project. Even oil from your fingertips will fisheye the paint, if handled enough. Orange peel is from the paint going on dry. You might want to try a lil higher pressure in the gun, or increase your flow volume. Try a little more reducer in the paint. Also, thinner coats, and more of them. Paint work is alot like covering, 90% preperation, 10% application.

If you are going with a base/clear coat scenario, try to wetsand the orange peel out, starting with 400 or 600, and going as high as 2000 if you can find it. Do you have panel lines, or rivets that might be scruffed off by that? You might even be able to use a small rotary buffer, and buff out the orange peel with automotive compound. Be very careful going this route, because the rotary will generate alot of heat on the surface, and could warp your fuse or wing.

Also, make sure you have an inline dryer between your air compressor and your paint gun. When I was doing custom paint n body work many moons ago, I always kept a seperate air hose and dryer just or painting, and drained my air tank before priming and painting. If you use air tools that require inline oil, there can be a residual buildup in the line if put in near the coupling. Being originally from Fl, I can attest to some wierd things happening with paint, and ruined a pearl paint job, because I had oil make it into the spray (used someone elses paint booth and air supply, will never do that again). Good luck, and send pics of your progress.
Steve

(in reply to gene2586)

PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishin... - 2/25/2002 8:04:39 AM

Posts: 120
Joined: 12/6/2001
From: Hillsboro, TN, USA
Status: offline

Anything with silicone, WD-40, tire shine,etc., when sprayed can float a l-o-n-g distance, like from a neighbors, it gets in the air and just a little can screw up a paint job. When washing off your project, be it with soap and water or solvent, use a NEW rag, not one that has come from a cleaning service as some of those have oils and stuff left in them. I use the blue paper shop towels followed by a tac rag.

(in reply to gene2586)

PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishin... - 2/25/2002 10:08:24 PM

Posts: 215
Joined: 12/22/2001
From: Kingsland, AR, USA
Status: offline

Everyone is right on target as what to do. I say if you have it primered and all is ok then when you spray color on you get the problem then you have a compatability problem between the primer and the color.

(in reply to gene2586)

PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishin... - 2/25/2002 11:24:39 PM

Volfy

Posts: 3227
Joined: 1/4/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline

Reminds me of the catch phrase I heard around people in auto refinish trade:

Don't grab the gun till the prep work is done.

Absolute cleaniness is key to eliminating fisheyes. I go nuts with Prepsol to keep the surfaces clean, most importantly once right before spraying. Surface imperfections (pitting, pinholes, etc.) can also cause fisheyes, so be sure to use a primer/surfacer to get a smooth surface to spray on. If all else fails, fisheye eliminators are available, though I always try to avoid using them since too much of that stuff causes flowout problems.

Orange peels, or the opposite: drips and runs, are caused by one of three things:

1. incorrect pressure at the gun.

2. wrong paint flow setting.

3. wrong temp reducer or thinner.

Auto paints typically enjoy great support for temp control, but if you use one of the various hobby paint finish system, or heaven forbid paint from a spray can

, you won't have that luxury. Depending on what you use, you might "fake" a different temp range reducer by using a slower evaporating paint thinner. So instead of using naptha or paint thinner, use mineral spirits or even kerosene instead - they are all petroleum distillate, but vary in their "drying fastness". If it is water-based, you might try adding glycol to the paint flow out a little better.

(in reply to gene2586)

PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishin... - 2/26/2002 12:59:15 AM

Posts: 2855
Joined: 12/29/2001
From: Brantford, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

A few more details.

I use a high volume low pressure spray unit. It is a fairly basic unit with very little adjustment. It is made by Wagner. Campbell-Housefeld make a similar unit. They both cost less than $200.00. With these there is very little overspray and they do not use a lot of paint. I use 6 fl oz of total liquid to paint a Q40 (per coat).

I use the ICI Autocolour brand of paint. Usually the basecoat/clearcoat. What I like about this brand is that the same hardener is used for the primer, clearcoat and the single stage paint if I use it.

Ed S

(in reply to gene2586)

PAINT orange peel &fish ye problemI'm finishin... - 2/27/2002 8:55:39 AM

Posts: 63
Joined: 2/27/2002
From: DALLAS, TX
Status: offline

YOUR ORANGE PEEL PROBLEMS ARE THE RESULT OF EITHER NOT ENOUGH REDUCTION, NOT ENOUGH AIR PRESSURE, OR A PAINT GUN THAT IS NOT PROPERLY ATOMIZING THE PAINT. OR, IT COULD BE A COMBINATION OF THE ABOVE THE EASIEST WAY TO AVOID FISH EYES , ASSUMMING THE SERVICE IS PROPERLY PREPPED, IS TO NOT SPRAY THE FIRST TWO COATS ON EXTREMLY WET. JUST MIST THE FIRST COAT AND MAKE THE SECOND COAT A LITTLE WETTER. THE THIRD COAT SHOULD BE WET. I'M SPEAKING FROM 25 YEARS OF AUTO PAINT EXPERIENCE.

(in reply to gene2586)

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