RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A
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RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/16/2007 3:58:33 PM

Posts: 94
Joined: 4/23/2006
From: Ronse, BELGIUM
Status: offline

OK then. Maybe it's better for me to take the ninja. I'm a good driver but i'm scared i will not be able to handle a C6. Aldo the C6 Is cheaper in price with maniflod and pipe. What do you guy's think of my final option. Will i be able to got a nice speed on a long line when i use a long maniflod

I realy hope the bottom of the ninja is better then the bottom of a normal VSpec. Is that so? I don't like the bottom of a vSpec. I had one. The High Rev power was good but the bottom end not.

< Message edited by death_rider -- 7/16/2007 4:01:36 PM >

(in reply to SManMTB)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/16/2007 4:03:54 PM

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Joined: 4/28/2005
From: Charlottesville, VA, USA
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Short manifold for top end speed.
Long manifold for better scceleration.

The length of the manifold/pipe combo determines where in the rpm band you get max power.
Short - max power at high rpm
Long - max power at lower rpm

The higher in the rpm range you go when getting the maximum power the more power it will make since hp is a function of torque x rpm. This ofcourse depends on how the port timings are done in the engine. Long durations on the exhaust = more power at high rpm.

The C6 is not hard to handle. It's very smooth actually but it just takes some time getting used to.
I put a short manifold on a JP-3 pipe and ran it with the C6BB and I really liked the combo. The low end became easier to control and the top end really improved.

< Message edited by SManMTB -- 7/16/2007 4:06:22 PM >

(in reply to death_rider)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/16/2007 4:15:30 PM

Posts: 94
Joined: 4/23/2006
From: Ronse, BELGIUM
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: SManMTB

Short manifold for top end speed.
Long manifold for better scceleration.

The length of the manifold/pipe combo determines where in the rpm band you get max power.
Short - max power at high rpm
Long - max power at lower rpm

The higher in the rpm range you go when getting the maximum power the more power it will make since hp is a function of torque x rpm. This ofcourse depends on how the port timings are done in the engine. Long durations on the exhaust = more power at high rpm.

The C6 is not hard to handle. It's very smooth actually but it just takes some time getting used to.
I put a short manifold on a JP-3 pipe and ran it with the C6BB and I really liked the combo. The low end became easier to control and the top end really improved.

If you read the topic complete. Somebody has told us that he has a short maniflod on his ninja and it was crap.

(in reply to SManMTB)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/16/2007 4:28:06 PM

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Joined: 4/28/2005
From: Charlottesville, VA, USA
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... and if you read what I posted I never mentioned the Ninja but rather the C6BB. If you read this thread you will also see that these two engines are very different.

All you need to do is decide. What length is your track? What caracteristics are you looking for?
All I can say is that the C6BB is good for both. Just play around with the pipe/header combo. All you need is a pipe of choice and then a short and a long header so you can get the caracteristics you want.

(in reply to death_rider)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/17/2007 2:36:55 AM

Posts: 43
Joined: 1/23/2006
From: Solvang, CA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: death_rider

quote:

ORIGINAL: SManMTB

Short manifold for top end speed.
Long manifold for better scceleration.

The length of the manifold/pipe combo determines where in the rpm band you get max power.
Short - max power at high rpm
Long - max power at lower rpm

The higher in the rpm range you go when getting the maximum power the more power it will make since hp is a function of torque x rpm. This ofcourse depends on how the port timings are done in the engine. Long durations on the exhaust = more power at high rpm.

The C6 is not hard to handle. It's very smooth actually but it just takes some time getting used to.
I put a short manifold on a JP-3 pipe and ran it with the C6BB and I really liked the combo. The low end became easier to control and the top end really improved.

If you read the topic complete. Somebody has told us that he has a short maniflod on his ninja and it was crap.

And you are assuming he is decent at tuning, clutch setup and gearing! Many people have opinions, less have real knowledge and experience. There are VERY many variables to consider.

< Message edited by rezenclowd3 -- 7/17/2007 2:37:32 AM >

(in reply to death_rider)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/17/2007 2:43:57 AM

Posts: 43
Joined: 1/23/2006
From: Solvang, CA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: SManMTB
The C6 is not hard to handle. It's very smooth actually but it just takes some time getting used to.
I put a short manifold on a JP-3 pipe and ran it with the C6BB and I really liked the combo. The low end became easier to control and the top end really improved.

I agree with it except for the pipe. With a high end engine, use a matched pipe. Try the 2045 out.

(in reply to SManMTB)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/17/2007 3:23:14 AM

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Didn't have the money to burn and I heard the JP3 worked well with it.

(in reply to rezenclowd3)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/17/2007 9:08:50 AM

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From: Ronse, BELGIUM
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Is the ninja a 3 needle our a 2 Needle carbu.

(in reply to SManMTB)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/18/2007 2:29:54 AM

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From: Solvang, CA, USA
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I believe it is a 2 needle carb.

(in reply to death_rider)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/18/2007 7:10:31 AM

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From: Ronse, BELGIUM
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OK. Thats cool but wired. Most top engines have 3 needles. I like 2 more becease simple to tune.

(in reply to rezenclowd3)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/19/2007 8:48:34 AM

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From: Solvang, CA, USA
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It really just depends. More engines come with 2 needle (High speed, low speed, and idle) rather than 3 needle (high speed, mid speed, low speed) The 2 needle is easiest to tune, but the 3 needle can be dialed in easier, however most drivers do not tune well enough to deal with a 3 needle carb. 3 needle will be seen on onroad motors more, where power can always be put down.

(in reply to death_rider)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/19/2007 8:54:34 AM

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From: Ronse, BELGIUM
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OS, LRP are 3 needles

(in reply to rezenclowd3)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/19/2007 11:31:07 AM

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From: ggg, DE, USA
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You don't need three needles. You only need two. I head the extra one you sometimes see is factory set, and doesn't ever need to be adjusted beyond the point that the factory set it at.

(in reply to death_rider)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/19/2007 12:30:25 PM

Foxy

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On on-road cars its a useful adjustment. It does change the powerband characteristics quite dramatically, can be very useful for switching from long to short tracks without actually changing the tune of the engine. It adjusts the point at which additional fuel is delivered for high speed and torque. It's important to remember though, when adjusting it, to make equal and opposite adjustments to the low speed needle at the same time.

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RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/19/2007 5:30:23 PM

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From: Ronse, BELGIUM
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That correct. In on-road you need 3

(in reply to Foxy)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/22/2007 9:10:55 AM

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From: Solvang, CA, USA
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You dont need 3 in onroad, but it can help IF you know how to use the mid speed needle correctly to set up the powerband for your track. However, most people have a hard enough time with a 2 needle carb.....

Well, just picked myself up a new C6BB for $320 and a new Piston/Sleeve/ and Conrod set for $110 (P/R/S from Bmain @ that price...gotta love clearance prices!) Itll be going in my Losi 8B, however I am probably going to put 7mm or 6.5mm venturi in it for my track also with a 2045 pipe and 92mm header. It really just depends on the run-time I get with it....oh it will be fun! Now for my WS7II to die...oh wait, its an RB, it probably wont for awhile! ;-)
(in all honesty, it just may, as when I first got it, I had an air leak and it ran WAY too lean. From that and a few more tuning mistakes, the crankpin is out of round...AND I bought it used...so who knows...but Ive put 5 gallons on it plus the 2 that were supposedly put on it before I ran it.)

Just so you guys know....take care of your engines. Replace the conrod every 1.5 liters (according to Rody) if you run the engine hard, and check the crankpin (for true-ness) and bearings every couple of races. Im suprised so many people just buy an engine and run it....then complain when something happens. These $300+ engines take some SERIOUS abuse, especially from driveline shock since buggies/truggies do not have a slipper clutch.

MMMM just thinking about my C6BB...so....much...POWER AND SPEED!!!! Now if only it was really the engine holding me back instead of my driving....;-)

(in reply to death_rider)

RE: R&B WS7||| & Ninja BO1A - 7/22/2007 12:39:04 PM

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Joined: 6/22/2007
From: ggg, DE, USA
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1 and a half litres! You can tell he is getting his parts for free.

Mine has done 4 gallons and is fine. LOL

(in reply to rezenclowd3)