Posts: 84
Joined: 9/23/2004 From: hobart,
WI, USA Status: offline
anyone have any ideas how set up a ailerons without linkage under the wing I want to try scale hinges and no linkage showing on my gee bee I am looking for ideas on how to construct a tourqe tube the ailerons are about 18" from the center of the wing I know someone out there has done it succesfully lets see some pics
Posts: 84
Joined: 9/23/2004 From: hobart,
WI, USA Status: offline
that is how I am going to do the flaps my aileron is hinged at the mid point and less than 1 inch thick I would be worried about flutter the gee bee sould be good for 85mph and needs to be stiff looks good though better than most i have seen I dont know why exposed linkage bugs me so much
Posts: 239
Joined: 4/17/2005 From: Peoria, AZ, USA Status: offline
Why not run torque rods from each aileron to the middle of the wing and then attach the push rods there? You can hide the torque rods inside of the trailing edge of the wing and nothing will show. This is done regularly on many of the trainers.
I don't blame you for not wanting the linkage to show. I am working on a Laird Super Solution and have the same concerns.
Posts: 12012
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
Check around in the glider forum. They have a diagonally mounted internal torque rod that's completely hidden inside the wing and flight surface that works extremely well and will handle a lot of load. I can't remember the name of the product line though.
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If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Posts: 358
Joined: 9/19/2005 From: Mesa,
AZ, USA Status: offline
Sorry for the delay in answering, haven't checked the posting for a while. Originaly I planned on 3/16" piano wire and K&S brass tubing for bearings at beginning, middle and exit point at aeliron, but that weighs about 3 oz. per wing so am looking into carbon fiber tube with a polytube bearing surface all the way. Then all you gave to get it out is remove aeliron hing pins and loosen set screw at servor end and you can pull it out. If you are mountion the whole thing inside the wing then no such luck for servicing it. But the carbon fiber tubing and poly tube bearing are MUCH lighter, the onlt metal is the bent end for the aeliron and the conection to the servo. Charlie
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Projects on the board: Stinson SR-9, Orion P-3, Dornier DO-24,Canadair DC-4M2. Pilatus PC-9 Future Projects: Curtiss F11-C2, Osprey C-22, Canadair CL-415, Connie CL-121, Stinson Model A Gruman TBM, bylouddesign.com "Scale without compromise"
Posts: 84
Joined: 9/23/2004 From: hobart,
WI, USA Status: offline
have decided to go with an aluminum tourq tube directly to the aileron I would stray away from carbon fiber for a tourq tube aluminum has better tourshonal ragidity and dose not splinter when twisted did some experaments with it and aluminum was always stiffer I have some t6 1/2 inch od .28 wall thickness aluminum I am going to use each tub will weigh just over an ouunce I will make up for it by using only one servo thanks for all the tips guys
Posts: 358
Joined: 9/19/2005 From: Mesa,
AZ, USA Status: offline
OK, that was in the back of my mind. The differance must lie in the fact that carbon is brittle, good in tensiom and compressoin but I can see where a thin walled brittle tube might fail under heavy loaded aeliron! Thanks for the heads up!
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Projects on the board: Stinson SR-9, Orion P-3, Dornier DO-24,Canadair DC-4M2. Pilatus PC-9 Future Projects: Curtiss F11-C2, Osprey C-22, Canadair CL-415, Connie CL-121, Stinson Model A Gruman TBM, bylouddesign.com "Scale without compromise"
Posts: 84
Joined: 9/23/2004 From: hobart,
WI, USA Status: offline
actually most of the carbon tube I find has the fibers parallel with the tube if you ever see how they make carbon fiber drive shafts you would find a diaganal weave like a chinese handcuff good luck with your linkage when I am done I will show you mine if you show me yours have a great build joe
Posts: 84
Joined: 9/23/2004 From: hobart,
WI, USA Status: offline
thank you for all the info on the rds system guys after about 5 hours of head scratching on autocad I have decided to ditch the tourq tube I have a feeling the granny did the same thing on his gee bee when he added flaps to the wing It is fun trying to reverse engineer things when you have so little info all I have is one patent drawing and a 3 view of the wing I am also finding out the tolerances have to be very tight might have to ask my old school teacher if I can borrow the lazer for this build thanks for the help
Posts: 358
Joined: 9/19/2005 From: Mesa,
AZ, USA Status: offline
I am going to use a aluminum tube in side a full length poly tube. the only iron will be the hooked end and it will be fastened with a small roll pin into the aluminum tube. I didn't bother with elipses on the path through the ribs, just made a slot that allowed the tube to pass through at the angle needed. Figuring that the attachment would be one of the filler type glues about everyother rib. If you pull the aeriron hing pins you would be able to undo the tube at the servo w/o disturbing the servosetup and slide the torque tube out. The full lenght poly tube is so the turque tube will have a ditermined path to follow on reinsertion. my wing thickness is enough to do the externat mount and then pocket the center wing portion that stays mounted to the A/C. AutoCAD is wonderful ain't it!
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Projects on the board: Stinson SR-9, Orion P-3, Dornier DO-24,Canadair DC-4M2. Pilatus PC-9 Future Projects: Curtiss F11-C2, Osprey C-22, Canadair CL-415, Connie CL-121, Stinson Model A Gruman TBM, bylouddesign.com "Scale without compromise"
Posts: 84
Joined: 9/23/2004 From: hobart,
WI, USA Status: offline
I am going to try making it so I can access the servo through the hinge line and mount the servo directly in front of the aileron I plan on using these http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=JRPS168 I am going to build a pocket they can slip into my hinge line is .711 inches deep at this point no holes on the botom of the wing should be real clean I love my cad I have a 2 year degree in model building than I got a good paying job that has nothing to do with it when the market went soft 6 years ago hard to pass up good health care so now i just build toys for myself to try to stay saine too bad I dont have access to a cnc that would be trouble good luck with your goshawk