4. Good support from Cermark... they usually fix any problems!
DISLIKES:
1. Initially I noticed what Bob had seen.... not a lot of space in the nose for a larger fuel tank.
2. The only problem so far is the USED nose strut, wheel and mechanism I recieved (not sure how that happened) and missing spinner.... Cermark sent me the spinner and I am waiting on the nose gear!
3. Cheap CA hinges.
4. NOTE TO CERMARK: YOU MUST OVERLAP THE ULTRACOTE A LITTLE (ABOUT 1/4", PREFERABLY ON THE UNDERSIDE) ON THE LEADING EDGE INSTEAD OF STOPPING AT THE VERY TIP OF THE LEADING EDGE ON ALL CONTROL SURFACES..... SO THE COVERING DOES NOT COME OFF IN FLIGHT. I HAVE SEEN THEM COME OFF ON THE F-16!
GENERAL:
If there is anyone out there who is good with graphics.... We need a good BLUE ANGELS logo for the nose!
THATS ALL FOR NOW!
RICH
< Message edited by jetpilotrich -- 7/11/2007 8:46:26 PM >
Got mine the week before. Arrived in A1 shape. Same good points as Rich's.
Some bad: 1) Use better CA hinges. 2) Carefully examine all formers and glue joints. I will be going over some of mine with a tube of Aeropoxy. 3) Reinforce and soak the retract plates. They are doubled up 1/8" plates, and are not solid, so hit 'em with a lot of thin ca. 4) Check your wing tube. Mine looks horribly one sided, based upon the locating screw holes.
Need BA graphic for the nose!
Spar
_____________________________
Oh great are the days my landings = my take-offs....! Revver Bro #158
1 - Testors Decal paper - White! 2 - Image needs to be scaled to correct size (Photoshop) 3 - Print the image on the decal paper - follow paper directions w.r.t. to ink settings 4 - let image dry thoroughly. 15 - 30 mins. 5 - lightly spray with a Krylon Clearcoat spray... let dry 6 - spray a second clearcoat... let dry! 7 - xacto knife around the decal, careful to not have any white edges. 8 - waterslide onto airframe.... carefully blot dry and let dry overnight. 9 - mask out and clearcoat the decal to seal it on the airframe with a 1/8 - 1/4" area around the decal.
Tip - If you leave a slight blue edge around the decal when printing, then it will blend to the fuse paint a lot easier. You will barely notice the slight variation between the two blues.
Method 2
Same as above, but use clear decal paper. You must rely on applying a separate white basecoat, sized the same as your intended decal, to the airframe. (paint, Monokote Trim sheet, etc) Slide the decal made on the clear decal paper over your white basecoat. Apply a final clearcoat to seal to airframe.
An example of this method was done on my HET F18.
Spar
_____________________________
Oh great are the days my landings = my take-offs....! Revver Bro #158
Posts: 268
Joined: 1/9/2004 From: , FL, USA Status: offline
Well folks…. Heres something you don’t see every day! Slightly off topic.... But you will probably want to beef up the underside of the F-18 engine mounts after you see this.
One entire prop blade separated INFLIGHT on a high speed pass! The entire engine separated from the mount, the carburetor separated from the engine, and the prop and spinner were totally destroyed! Fortunately they all hung on (by the fuel lines only) for the ride home. Luckily I had enough energy stored up to pitch up into a modified downwind/Split-S for a safe landing.
Been running this engine for years with a 12-6 APC never seen anything like it.
Although the prop failure was the cause…. I would suggest that Cermark use better wood or better yet… carbon fiber for the mount. The wood is so cheap ALL THE BLIND NUTS WERE PULLED OUT OF THE WOOD! I noticed on the Hornet they did put some hard wood on the topside of the mount.
Check out the pics…..
I guess I got some repairs to make….
RICH
< Message edited by jetpilotrich -- 7/12/2007 5:23:54 PM >
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Extreme Speed Prop Planes >> CERMARK F-18 HORNET, BUILT IT BETTER, STRONGER, AND FASTER! 
CERMARK F-18 HORNET, BUILT IT BETTER, STRONGER, AND FAS... - 
why so high coming outta cali