Posts: 3024
Joined: 6/29/2004 From: Evansville,
IN, USA Status: offline
I just lost my good work table that I have been putting planes together on for over 3 years. It was part of an office desk and it was 4' X 7" made out of solid cherry. I need something fast as I have the Aeroworks 90-120 YAK coming any day. Anyone have any pics of their work table or ideas of what would work good?
Posts: 3375
Joined: 1/2/2002 From: Baltic,
CT, USA Status: offline
Ask if they have any damaged "one side" interior doors. You can usually get them for about 1/2 price, and as Dave said, a couple of saw horses. Top with some ceiling tiles and you are ready to build.
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Joined: 3/30/2003 From: Garland,
TX, USA Status: offline
If you get a hollow core interior door, check it often for flatness. My brother bought one about 2 years ago and it was pretty flat. He’s getting ready to start a new kit. He put a straight edge on it last week and it is definitely NOT flat. His hobby room is inside the house so temperature/humidity shouldn’t be an issue.
Posts: 3024
Joined: 6/29/2004 From: Evansville,
IN, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: carrellh
If you get a hollow core interior door, check it often for flatness. My brother bought one about 2 years ago and it was pretty flat. He’s getting ready to start a new kit. He put a straight edge on it last week and it is definitely NOT flat. His hobby room is inside the house so temperature/humidity shouldn’t be an issue.
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Joined: 4/22/2002 From: Willmar,
MN, USA Status: offline
Quick and easy:
Cut eight 2x4s to however high you want your table to be (Minus about 2 inches for top thickness)
Screw two 2x4s together for each leg (This is simple, but extremely sturdy)
Join the legs at the bottom with four 1x6s
Now that it is standing on it's own, screw the top 1x6s in place, but leave about a 3/4" gap between the top of the 1x6 and the tops of the legs and use a level to be sure they are, uh... level. (The gap is in case a piece needs to be lowered - if you start at the top of a leg, the 1x6 may have to go lower at some point depending on how uneven your floor is)
Now lay your hollow-core door on top (No securing needed) and you're set to go - and it's solid as a rock.
On mine, I also added a bottom shelf, wheels, and I topped the hollow-core door with a 4x8 sheet of Melamine from Home Depot. I even added a catch-all drawer to the front
Posts: 14448
Joined: 7/10/2002 From: Lawton, OK, USA Status: online
I visited Minnflyer in May of this year and had a chance to work on his table. All I can say after seeing is that I'm now building one of my own to match his. It's a great bench. One thing that he didn't mention, but you can see it in the photo is the draw underneath the edge of the bench. it's on casters and can slide in and out. It's great for putting all those things that seem to clutter up a building area, but in the drawer they are still right at hand and still out of the way at the same time.
Ken
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Posts: 3589
Joined: 7/25/2002 From: Spartanburg,
SC, USA Status: offline
I got lucky. My wife had a friend with an old solid oak library table, about 6' long. I laid down a solid core door over that and leveled it. I 3M77ed ceiling tiles on that, then covered those with 3/32" cork. A perfectly flat, pinable, non-marrnig work surface. Solid as Gibralter, too!
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Joined: 5/24/2005 From: Houston, TX, USA Status: offline
Back in 1973 I bought a 28" hollow core door a lumber yard that was damaged and I am still using it. I pin directly to the door and have built many kits on it. I made a frame out of 2 x 4s for it. The frame is put together with 5/16" carriage bolts so I take it apart easily if I need too.
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Posts: 3024
Joined: 6/29/2004 From: Evansville,
IN, USA Status: offline
MinnFlyer has a great idea but I was just out in the garage looking for something I can use and I have an old desk that could be used for the main base and I think all I need is a good solid wood door or counter top and the drawers are already built in the desk.