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RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/26/2008 1:12:42 AM   
lever02


 

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From: columbia, SC, USA
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Thanks, I guess I already knew the answer when I asked the question. If I ever get the shop built we will attack this and some other issues with a plane someone else started.

(in reply to samparfitt)
       Post #: 151

RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/26/2008 5:39:25 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1866
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
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Brakes (cont)

pic 1:
All the air was coming out of the brake valve when it was in the closed position (as seen in picture).
I called up Charles at Yellow and he said that the brass inlet in the center is for the input air.
I was using the single input on the opposite side as input air, thinking one for in and the two on the other side for out.
As soon as he told me the correct connections, I realized that it made perfect sense since there is an 'O' ring on the valve shaft, the two outlets have to be at an equal distance from the end.
The brakes aren't grabbing: I put oil on the tubing because I thought it would be too tight.
I'll have to clean the tubing and probably try different lengths to get it to work correctly.
Charles said the tubing is just regular fuel tubing so I'll have to try some different brands/sizes: hopefully, there is one that has weak walls and will easily expand.

----------------
Land lights (cont)

pic 2:
I zap-a-dap'ed the contact switch (with the red button) to the top of the gear servo so the opposite side of the servo arm contacts the metal plate which 'opens' the red button. Initially, the contact switch is set up to make a 'closed' loop but I would have had to put the switch on the other end of the servo and there wasn't any room. Fortunately, the contact switch has three metal tabs of which two were being used. After looking at the small schematic on the side of the switch plus testing it, I found that I could put one wire on the spare tab and make the switch 'open' when the servo arm pushed on the red button. Also, fortunately, the wires for the landing gear are only a few inches away so I can just cut one and splice in the switch.

------------
Gears (cont)

pic 3:
I broke down and cut part of the boom away to allow the main wheel to properly seat into the boom well.
There will be a hole in the turbocharger well but since it is painted black, I don't think it will be noticable.
Initially, I got some Yellow AT-6 wheels which were a 1/4" smaller and seated properly in the well but it would involve sanding the two sides of the wheel down to make it the proper width for the P-38. I 'canned' that idea.
It's amazing what a problem just a 1/4" larger wheel can create!
Oh well, I can always use the extra wheels for spares for my Yellow AT-6.


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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 3/26/2008 5:44:18 PM >


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RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/27/2008 12:50:04 AM   
samparfitt


 

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Brakes (cont)

pic 1:
The left lever on the side of the 2.4 X9303 is not assigned to any channel (although it is called the flap lever).
I assigned it to the brakes to give me a variable brake.
Later, I'll also slave it to the down elevator.
To assign this lever to AUX 2, I got into the system screen, then selected 'deviceSEL' in the second column:
The next screen has GEAR FLAP AUX 2 AUX 3 AUX 4 (top of the screen in the picture),
so you can reassign any of these.
I used AUX 2 ( which is(was) the upper right hand toggle on transmitter) since I'm not using it and assigned the FLAP LEVER (FLAP LEV) to it.
I selected AUX 2 on the screen and it displays available replacement switches, of which I selected FLAP LEV.
I chose this since I can easily use my index finger to control the brakes without taking my hand off the sticks.
In the picture, AUX 2 now shows FLAP LEV below it as the other switches have the same name under them.


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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 3/27/2008 12:54:01 AM >


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G. Samuel Parfitt

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RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/27/2008 3:44:06 AM   
YellowAircraft



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From: San Diego, CA, USA
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Sam,

Charles didn't have the o-ring type brakes for you? I HATE those tubing-type....

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Yellow Aircraft, JetCat Engines, Skymaster ARF+ and Turn Key Jets
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       Post #: 154

RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/27/2008 1:09:46 PM   
samparfitt


 

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From: West Chester, OH, USA
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yellow,
I bought the plane, gear and brakes from a fellow pilot.
I believe the plane and parts were made several years ago and wasn't aware of any updates.

< Message edited by samparfitt -- 3/27/2008 1:11:06 PM >


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G. Samuel Parfitt

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       Post #: 155

RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/27/2008 3:17:53 PM   
skull1971



Posts: 801
Joined: 4/24/2006
From: Willis, TX, USA
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I'm only on the second page of this thread, but I have to say this is great!! Great work and pictures and detail, and thank you for posting it for all of us. I lOVE the P-38, it's my all time favorite airplane, LOL I'd almost trade my right arm for just a ride in one. LOL
We have the Lone Star Flight Museun, down here in Galveston, and they have one, I go down every so often to just visit that plane. Yes I'm a grown man (37), but I just have a thing for this bird, and one day I will build one too. I like the Ziroli, so far. The Yellow is a fine aircraft, but I don't like fiberglass, if I just walk past it I itch for days! If it wasn't for that I'd be saving my nickels and dimes for one.
Please keep up the great work!! and keep posting. THANK YOU again!!

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ERIC, Revver Bro. 159, NMPRA 59i, Knucklehead #1
Keeper of the South Texas SKULLY MAN!!

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       Post #: 156

RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/27/2008 6:06:20 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1866
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From: West Chester, OH, USA
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Eric,
Welcome aboard.

----------------
Brakes (cont)
I called Charles at Yellow and the P-38 brakes still use the tubing.
He said regular glow fuel tubing is to be used.
I used Great planes 3/32" std silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131).
The first time I tested the brakes, the wheels were not on and the tubing blewup like a balloon.
It got stretches so I replaced it.
There's a small gap between the brake rim and the brass nipple where the tubing bulges but Charles says that's OK.
Initially, I was getting air leaks on the end of the tubing so I used some brass wire to hold it in place.
I first tried plastic ties but those leave a small gap at the buckle so air was still escaping.
I cut each tubing 6 1/4" long for the brake hub.
I was getting some friction after the brakes were released so I put some oil on the tubing and inside rim of the wheel which allowed the wheel to easily rotate.
Charles said to put some lithium grease on as the oil will wear away.
The brakes really lock up the wheels. I guess with that tubing expanding so much, it really grabs the wheel rim.
Of course, that's only trying to turn the wheel by hand: the true test is revving up the engines full bore at the end of the runway with the brakes on (that'll look cool!).

pic 1:
To keep the brake hub from spinning when the brakes are applied, I tapped the pre-drilled holes that are on each side of the center axle hole with a 10X24 tap.
I used a button head 10X24 screw (before/after screw in the picture) and ground the edge of the head off leaving only the center for the allen wrench.
The screws came from ACE hardware store: they have an excellent selection of #2 and up size screws/bolts that you won't find at home depot. They also have springs, nylon bolts and other items that come in handy.
I only put one screw in one hole but I think I'll add another to the other side for extra 'insurance'.


pic 2:
Since the yellow brakes are made for yellow retracts, the hole in the brake hub is about a 1/32" inside the diameter of the robart strut so I used a dremel to grind a shallow groove in the retract.
This works out well anyway because that will keep the brake hub from rotating.

pic 3:
Here's the brass wire to hold the tubing on.

pic 4:
With the wheel on.

pic 5:
Since there is lots of room in the center wing, I added two more small tanks and they hardly weigh anything.

pic 6:
I had to add some robart retainer fittings as I was getting some leaks on the 'T' fittings.
I was suprised as the 'T' fitting were brand new.
Initially, I thought the end of the tubing was stretched but cutting off a 1/4" didn't fix it.
It looked like there was a tiny ridge line down the middle of the 'T' which was probably allowing air to escape.
It would have been best to check the completed system outside the plane to insure no bugs existed before installing the air system.


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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 3/27/2008 6:18:45 PM >


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RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/27/2008 6:37:33 PM   
samparfitt


 

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JR 2.4 X9303

I only had one battery turned on to a receiver while working on the brakes and the battery got too low and the servos stopped working.
I also noticed that just one of the remotes of the two remotes was blinking so I had to rebind the receivers to the transmitter.
Interesting that just one remote lost its 'binding'.
It appears that it's good to have the receivers visable (mine from the main gear wells) to insure that all are working properly.

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RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/28/2008 3:58:52 AM   
samparfitt


 

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Took the P-38 to the club meeting.
Also, a Hanger-9 pawnee and a scratch built Blue angels (all 4 planes connected to each other with motor in front).


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RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/28/2008 6:23:47 PM   
skull1971



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From: Willis, TX, USA
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Mr. Sam,
The Blue Angles, does that work?? I'd like more info on them if you can. Thats a fantastic idea and would like to try something like it. Maybe use P-51's or, this is it, Flying Tiger P-40's!! That'd be neat.

< Message edited by skull1971 -- 3/28/2008 6:26:17 PM >


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ERIC, Revver Bro. 159, NMPRA 59i, Knucklehead #1
Keeper of the South Texas SKULLY MAN!!

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       Post #: 160

RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/28/2008 6:37:53 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1866
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From: West Chester, OH, USA
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Eric,
I think it has a 75 2-stroke engine.
All parts are scratch built.
I think he used CF rod to hold each plane together.
He made it a tail dragger but the mains retract.

video of thunderbirds:
http://www.rcuvideos.com/item/PK44WHDPJZWMVZ3W


< Message edited by samparfitt -- 3/28/2008 6:50:22 PM >


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G. Samuel Parfitt

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RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/29/2008 2:31:26 AM   
lever02


 

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From: columbia, SC, USA
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Is it warm enough to paint yet?

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       Post #: 162

RE: Yellow P-38 build thread - 3/29/2008 5:05:33 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1866
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: offline
Unfortunately not.
Today, it's suppose to be low 50's but I'm out in my detached shop trying to clean up the mess out there and I had to come in the hou