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Saito FA-300TL
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All Forums >> Glow Engines, Gas Engines, Fuel & Mfg Support Forums >> Glow Engines >> 2 Saito Questions
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2 Saito Questions - 7/27/2007 6:53:21 PM   
John@FLYRC



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From: Bethel, CT, USA
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I have been asked to replace the bearings in a FA-56. I do not anticipate any real problem. I replace bearings frequently. This is my first Saito bearing job and I am concerned about getting the timing right on re-assembly. I made this mistake on my first Surpass and don't want to repeat it. I haven't even taken it apart yet as the new bearings haven't arrived. The plan is to remove the rocker arm covers, rocker arms, push rods, cylinder head and push rod covers (keeping everything laid out on a clean towel, in order, right side up as necessary) . Now comes taking the cover off (with the lifters I guess) and seeing what is in there. I read the Saito manual's coment about the mark on the timing gear. W8ye sent me a PM so I have a little head start.

Question -- Are there any surprises in store for me?

I am installing a Saito in a Chipmunk wreck I rebuilt. It is either a 120 or a 150 but I don't know which as someone ground that off the side or the block.

Question -- Is there a piston diameter difference or some other measurement I can take to ID this engine size?

All Answers, Comments, Tips, etc. will be appreciated and I'll feedback results as I get them. Deragatory comments, jeers and Bronx cheers will recieve the attention they deserve. Jokes will be laughed or grined at. Aw com'on guys. Smile a little. Life is too short.

Thanks

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John Lee
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RE: 2 Saito Questions - 7/27/2007 7:13:44 PM   
donkey doctor



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Hello; I wouldn't remove the rocker arms, and keep the pushrods separated so that the same one goes back in the right way around and in the right hole. Also, if you can keep the piston in the bore you won't have to worry about breaking a ring at re-install. Try not to damage the gasket under the cam chest. If you do remove the piston, don't lose the teflon buttons in the wrist pin bore, and don't forget to put them back in.

You'll have to measure the bore when you get the barrel off. I'd just push the rod up the bore a bit, and measure the lower opening.

Saito rods have a front and a back, another reason to not take the piston out.

(in reply to John@FLYRC)
       Post #: 2

RE: 2 Saito Questions - 7/27/2007 7:25:36 PM   
w8ye



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Joined: 12/11/2001
From: Taylortown, OH, USA
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On the big end of the rod. The crankpin hole has a chamfer on the side that goes towards the crank or the front.

There is a dot on one side of the shank of the rod and people have claimed that this must go to the front or rear but I have found the dot on the rod to be a unreliable indicator or the front or back of the rod.

On the matter of someone grinding the size off your Saito 120 or 150, the engine is a 120S model or a 150S? They had a little glued on plate to indicate the size of the engine. This plate is often missing on these two sizes of Saitos

The 120 has a bore and stroke of 32mm X 24.8mm and weighs 900g
The 150 has a bore and stroke of 34mm X 27.5mm and weighs 890g

< Message edited by w8ye -- 7/27/2007 7:30:22 PM >


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Original AMA #31261

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RE: 2 Saito Questions - 7/27/2007 9:36:55 PM   
John@FLYRC



Posts: 68
Joined: 5/8/2003
From: Bethel, CT, USA
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OK ! Thanks to you both. The engine is apart. Much easier than I guessed. I found quite al lot of very fine aluminum shavings in the back of the engine (behind the rear bearing). I see no signs of wear or scratching. Could these be shavings left over from machining when the engine was new? I don't believe the engine has ever been apart before.

Moving on -- I tried to press the crank shaft out using my parallel jaw vice. I gave it a good push without movement. I didn't want to go to further without advice. Do I need to warm the block or is there a trick I missed?

After disassembly I plan to ultrasonic everything but the piston and cylinder. (Donkey, I took your advice and did not remove the piston). Everything is cruddy so ultrasonic in alcohol seems to be the way to go. Any downside you know of?

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John Lee

(in reply to w8ye)
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RE: 2 Saito Questions - 7/27/2007 10:59:28 PM   
w8ye



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From: Taylortown, OH, USA
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You need to remove the prop drive washer first with a gear puller.

Use your Monocoat gun on the washer to make it come loose easier. Once it's broken loose it will fall off.

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Attended the CutFinger Institute of DirtNap University for years but never did graduate....

Club Saito Member #7
Original AMA #31261

(in reply to John@FLYRC)
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RE: 2 Saito Questions - 7/28/2007 4:48:05 AM   
RaceCity



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Joined: 7/10/2002
From: NotUpNorth, USA
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The prop drive flange is VERY thin around the skirt, so you've got to be careful not to ding it all up when removing it. That looks like crap if you do.

I removed the metal shields from the rear bearing when I did a bearing job on my .56. Using an OEM bearing with the shields removed seems to have already validated itself owing to the much greater service life I've seen from the replacement set. The originals failed (became gritty and rough) in a very short time....even with close attention paid to caring for the motor after each flying session.

A gasket set for this motor is cheap. $3.95 or so I believe. It'd pay to have a fresh set on hand before you're ready to reassemble the engine.



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(in reply to w8ye)
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RE: 2 Saito Questions - 7/28/2007 4:53:08 AM   
w8ye



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Joined: 12/11/2001
From: Taylortown, OH, USA
Status: offline
Devices used to remove the prop drive washer are available at the auto parts store but are cheaper from Harbor Frieght




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Attended the CutFinger Institute of DirtNap University for years but never did graduate....

Club Saito Member #7
Original AMA #31261

(in reply to RaceCity)
       Post #: 7

RE: 2 Saito Questions - 7/29/2007 9:48:35 PM   
John@FLYRC



Posts: 68
Joined: 5/8/2003
From: Bethel, CT, USA
Status: offline
Thanks to you all the project is finished. The new bearings are in, the engine reassembled and it turns smoothly. The metal shards were because the rear bearing had failed completely. (It came out in pieces.) Everything was ultrosonically cleaned, oiled and re-assembled. I used white lithium grease liberally in the gear case. The lifters were mushroomed and I smoothed and then polished them with 400 sanding cloth and 0000 steel wool. All rusty parts received the same treatment. This was my first Saito redo and I enjoyed the challange.

Again my thanks and until the next time I remain

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John Lee

(in reply to w8ye)
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RE: 2 Saito Questions - 7/30/2007 2:22:33 AM   
blw



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From: Auburn, AL, USA
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It sounds like you did a good job on it, and enjoyed yourself in the process.

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The ultimate responsibility of pilots is to fulfill the dreams of the countless millions who can only stare skyward...and wish.

(in reply to John@FLYRC)
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