RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bought!!!

RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bought!!!
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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/7/2007 5:07 PM

Mini_Me

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I cant post it publically since it on another forum, but check your PM.

I'm a Buggy fanatic. Though all those years ago I started racing with the original RC18T when it first came out, when I went to buggy, I enjoyed the challenge and nimbleness it provided so much more. A truck was too easy, slow, and mushy to drive in comparison.

The wing will help level out the truck on jumps.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/7/2007 8:38 PM

DarkHorse

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Thanks for the info.
Glad I took some pictures when I did, as the m18t took a beating this afternoon outdoors

, grass dirt and road. Among other things, it was drag racing a HPI 1.8 1:10 Ford mustang LOL and holding it's own. Lost track of any runtimes. Cooked the motor a couple times and lost plenty of paint from the shell. Luckily had no hard impacts but chipped a couple of teeth on the spur gear after a massive number of cart wheels tore one of the motor bolts out the motor (a bit old and worn already) causing pinion misalignment. Re-threaded with a larger screw and still runs ok, otherwise all is good on the truck.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/8/2007 2:58 PM

Mini_Me

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Heh, I just realized I said RC18T. I meant to say RC10T. The original!

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever boug... - 10/8/2007 3:14 PM

HpiDrifter420

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xray minis are top quality

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever boug... - 10/10/2007 10:10 PM

WalkerBoh

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Where is the best place (best price?) to get one of these. I'm looking at joining the club!

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever boug... - 10/10/2007 10:21 PM

HpiDrifter420

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i just bought mine from amainhobbies.com. i got the NT18MT RTR. it was like 284 then they had a coupon. i think the truck verison is onli 230 something so if you get a coupon you can get it for like 205 or so

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/13/2007 11:16 AM

DarkHorse

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What options are there out there for non-X-ray body shells for the X-ray M18T/M18MT.
I'm looking for a selection of alternative pre-painted that require few mods to fit, that look like cars/trucks with bonnets (hoods) as opposed to buggies but please post all type anyways. You might change my mind...

< Message edited by DarkHorse -- 10/13/2007 11:22 AM >

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/13/2007 2:26 PM

Mini_Me

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You can use the m18mt Composite Body Post for Micro Monster Body (2) # 382089which put the body higher up so you have more choices, though it wont look as slammed.

As far as what types, not a clue. I would assume then most any that can fit a 1/18th monster in that size.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/13/2007 5:54 PM

rschoi_75

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You can use most any rc18t body with a little cutting here and there.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever boug... - 10/14/2007 5:17 AM

Gonzalo38

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I just finished assembling my first M18T and I'm amazed at the quality and how easy it is to built. I have a HPI Baja 5B, an OFNA X1 CR Buggy, an OFNA X1 CRT Truggy plus some other cars and I've never seen so detailed instructions and drawings for the assembly. The quality of the manual is just amazing...... it is impossible to make a mistake while assembling due to bad instructions. Tomorrow I will start assembling my son's M18T.

My RC18T is going to the basement......

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever boug... - 10/14/2007 12:25 PM

DarkHorse

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Yes I'm sure glad I bought the Xray m18t also. It's light, strong, with really good prformance and handling below 500g. I will have to shoot some video...

Of course every model has a it's niggly bits, especially for the newbie micro truck builder like myself. Composite gears and grit with no gear box cover!! Easiest thing to do is buy a few $3 gears as backup and replace them if they chew up (no big deal).
So I have the metal spur gear (385654) on order and a metal pinion for the light debre and dust.
You've probably heard this one before but I have a prototype make shift gear box cover. Still refining the design and the construction should be quite easy. The problem is once you cover the gears you need total coverage otherwise you risk trapping the odd stone to bounce around and making the situation worse than having no cover at all.
I'll have better measurements soon. You need some clear plastic packing material (like thin lexan). I'm using a plastic box that a pair of safety specs came in. Mount the pinion quite far down the motor shaft and maybe shave a small amount of material off the rear suspension strut that passed close to the motor pinion, to give some greater clearance in this area.
After some initial testing to free up the friction area around the face of the pinion, it does the job until the metal gears arrive

.

If you can't get out side and stuck in a confined space? Try covering the tiers completely or partially with tape for some skiddy indoor carpet action (stresses the battery less also if the wheels can slip). Good fun but I miss reverse indoors (feature missing on my old ESC).

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/14/2007 8:40 PM

DarkHorse

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Update: Another thrashing today, the gear box cover held up for 10 mins on the dirt, sand and rough (a building site), doing jumps and generally hammering about. I started pulling fast frenzied power doughnuts, spinning rapidly round with all 4 wheels spinning in the dirt. This caused the cover to lift some how and suddenly I heard the dirt/sand in the gears. Of course with the dirt being trapped in there I had to remove the cover and avoid the dirt from then on (with composite gears). The gears were dirty but continued several packs without issue (avoiding the loose grit and stones). The gear cover rests on the floor pan of the truck with the front to back top cross member holding in place, which I thought was tight enough but appears not, as the cover must have lifted to let the grit in. Was worth a try anyway.

Was enjoying launching off a shallow speed bump at 15mph and punching full throttle to pop 10ft wheelies. Until I realised that the long cut rear body scraping the ground was resonating the plastic and threw all the paint off the rear shell area (I think I needed more grit before spraying).
It is confirmed, this little bodge job does 40mph on a flat road surface. Topped out along side a Savage 4.1 with 3 speed box which has been clocked at 42mph, then it ran over the m18t!

(which is huge in comparison).

btw. I really hate dogs... low ground clearance can suck, say no more Grrr!

Edit: Cheap heat sink tip, cable tie and lightly super glue a couple of rows of metal staples (10mm |_| paper stapler) along the motor. Worked a treat, weighs very little and costs even less.

< Message edited by DarkHorse -- 10/14/2007 10:39 PM >

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever boug... - 10/15/2007 2:09 AM

Gonzalo38

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Today it was the first run of my M18T...... and I didn't have any problems. I was running it in a big track with some big jumps.

Some pretty big jumps and though landings and no problems with the gear boxes.

Now I just have to adjust the suspension.........

I'm running a 1400 mAh battery and the M18T really moves.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/15/2007 10:21 PM

DarkHorse

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Now that looks a nice track

I'm running stock shocks with the spacers in (+10mm?) and the suspension bottoms out very easy on the front at only 500g. Metal 54T spur and N18T springs were due today but now on back order

. The ali front CVDs arrived so no I have 2 spare plastic backups for the rear. I can't believe how much punishing abuse the stock plastic CVDs have taken without a single pop from the tiny ~1mm spiked ball joints.

Is that a 1400 pack NiMh pack sounds like a killer to haul around, what's your setup there? I have a friend getting the M18MT version with the 'power pack' 7.2v brushed options. What performance can he expect? Found this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJeDu-TjQmM which is pretty well made and nice to watch. Noticed the 7.2 brushed motor is geared very low for low down torque but seems to top out rather early (est. ~20mph).

Gears, the funny thing is I'm still running fine on my original gears, so why did I worry?
I think it's all in the mind when you have a new fresh clean setup

.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/16/2007 9:53 AM

Mini_Me

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quote:

ORIGINAL: DarkHorse
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJeDu-TjQmM which is pretty well made and nice to watch. Noticed the 7.2 brushed motor is geared very low for low down torque but seems to top out rather early (est. ~20mph).

Love that video. But I think that guy hadn't adjusted his diffs yet. You listen and there is that high whine before it takes off. Thats his diffs slipping. Not good in the long run.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bou... - 10/18/2007 6:39 PM

DarkHorse

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Oh yes, now you mention it, his diffs do sound loose.

About ball diffs (which I'm new to), I have been fiddling with mine since day one. When I hold one wheel on the same axel and hold the motor pinion, then turning the other wheel, the ball diff slips but feels/sounds a bit grippy graunchy jerky sounding with moderate resistance. Is that normal for ball bearings on plastic diff cogs or have I over tightened them?

I have them set to slightly slip under extreme loads for on road.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bough... - 10/18/2007 6:46 PM

Mini_Me

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Could be you overtightened them and they have worn some flat spots. Next rebuild you might consider new rings and upgrading to carbide diff balls.

If anyone is interested, I made a cad blueprint to use a 18b wing mount to use on the back tower to have a truggy or buggy conversion. Cant post it as per its another forum.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bough... - 10/20/2007 11:01 PM

DarkHorse

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Thanks.

> Could be you overtightened them and they have worn some flat spots.
I'm not sure, I swear I can still hear them when I punch the power in. What's your m18t diff tightness guide lines for moderate on road bashing and jumping and tightness slip test?
I expect this info is already out there some where, I just haven't run into it yet

.

New motor test in the Xray M18T

.

Arc 20-34-130 39g 4600Kv 130w $32.95. I wanted a motor for dual use in my other micro heli's and planes. I heard that this motor had lots of drag when the coils are not energised so I thought some free breaking would be a bonus, which it is as my P10 ESC only has soft or hard breaking options. Moving to soft option breaking saves a lot of valuable battery juice time anyway. I had to tape up the air holes front and back for use in a car with all the dust and grit likely to get thrown up.

Tried 3 cells 11.1v 54T/17T, road results were manic, ~50mph top but straight off the mark too fast a slowest cruise speed (geared too much for top end). At 50mph the m18t handled fine if I fed the power in slowly otherwise the truck would veer under torque or even flip over. The trouble is at top speed if I hit a small bump or drain cover with my poor steering servo choice the truck can get wildly out of shape real quick (with curbs around

).
So I backed off to a 12T pinion to pull top speed down to the 35-40mph mark. Still a crazy handful flipping and veering if I don't feed the power in but more manageable and the low down torque is lovely

. With the Phoenix 10 ESC (which has no reverse) I have moved to the advanced timing option for much better takeoff's without motor cog splutter.

All in all I'm very happy with this motor, it's way more powerful than the previous Himax 2015 2800Kv, similar size and weight and doesn't get as hot (no need for heat sinks yet). The runtimes this car gets on 3x910mAh (11.1v) seems good but I haven't any figures yet and my throttle demands vary so much it may be a meaning less number anyway.

My mate who was getting a M18MT got a good condition constructed low priced M18T from E-bay. He is soon to get a Mamba 25 ESC and 68000Kv motor combo so I'll soon be comparing with the Arc130.

I'm missing reverse and a programmable break so I'm thinking about the Quark 22A Pro Car ESC, as I think I read somewhere that it's better featured but harder to program than the Mamba25, is this a true picture? Do I need a PC interface for the Quark or can I just use a Tx to program?

< Message edited by DarkHorse -- 10/22/2007 7:22 PM >

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bough... - 10/21/2007 12:08 AM

Mini_Me

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quote:

ORIGINAL: DarkHorse

Thanks.

> Could be you overtightened them and they have worn some flat spots.
I'm not sure, I swear I can still hear them when I punch the power in. What's your m18t diff tightness guide lines for moderate on road bashing and jumping and tightness slip test?
I expect this info is already out there some where, I just haven't run into it yet .

There is no real set it and forget it. It's somewhat like black magic, but you get a feel for when you want to loosen or tighten the diffs. The main idea is to get it to just not slip when you punch it, then back off a tiny bit. The front usually tighter than the rear.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bough... - 10/22/2007 7:15 PM

DarkHorse

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It was my tyres (now balding) wheel spinning not the diffs, the diffs where too tight and notching a little (no dust in there yet), sorted now, thanks.

I wrote this a while ago but forgot to post.

What a difference: Refitted the shocks with the 2 hole/gap piston plungers and that is a 200% improvement over the 4 hole/gap plungers directed in the instructions. When you refit, some shock fluid gets in the cap thread, when screwed on this slightly pressurises the shocker (so the car rides artificially high) and takes a few hours stood on the car to neutralise. The resulting resistance is very stiff (great for road and jumps) compared to the stock shock plungers, which in comparison their resistance was hardly noticeable. Also the stock springs are fine and used to set the overall average ride height with one medium spacer. So don't rush to buy stiffer springs, check the shocks.

PS. Quark 22A Pro Car is in the post...

< Message edited by DarkHorse -- 10/22/2007 7:18 PM >

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever boug... - 10/24/2007 12:09 AM

joeyhatch11

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Can a receiver be a cause of glitching and the motor acting funny? The reason i ask is because I had a hacker brushless motor and Quake 22A ESC and was having a lot of glitching problems with it so i traded my Mini LST for a Comp. X Mamba brushless package and i'm still having the same damn problems. I'm thinking it's something to do with the receiver. I doubt i have two bad brushless systems. But i dont have another receiver to test it out. I have no issues with the steering servo though. And batteries in my transmitter are new. What is this problem of mine?

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bough... - 10/24/2007 12:39 AM

rschoi_75

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absolutely. using high quality electronics will eliminate most, if not all, of your glitching problems.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bough... - 10/24/2007 4:38 PM

joeyhatch11

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Do u think would work? Or is it an overkill? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001172418&I=LXNHS1**&P=K

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bough... - 10/24/2007 4:58 PM

rschoi_75

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It will work, and no, its not overkill. That's a pretty solid radio, but a little expensive for just FM. I just sold a complete spektrum system for $100 shipped on ebay. What I'm saying is, check out ebay or the classifieds (here or rctech.com) and score yourself a good used radio system for less. There are some incredible deals floating around.

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RE: Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bough... - 10/24/2007 7:48 PM

joeyhatch11

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Thanks. I just came back from the LHS and the ass that works there was trying to sell me the Spektrum DX2.0 for $170. I know i can find the same thing brand new or used for less. What a dick. But thank you i'm going to look around on here and check out ebay.

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