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Joined: 3/14/2005 From: Hotlanta,
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Hello Everybody,
I've got a few questions for you all - Do you like to build your own airplanes? Do you want to fly one of the most "state-of-the-art" 2m FAI pattern ships? Do you take pride in your own craftsmanship? Are you concerned about customer service and quick replacement parts? Do you feel your building skills might not be up to snuff and your looking for a confidence building project? Are you tired of paying just way to much? Maybe you just want to build the best new Pattern Ship for 2007?
Look no further, the Black Magic VF3 is ready and it's for YOU!
By now it's almost old news, Mike Hester's Black Magic VF3 is here and it's for real. He created this new design with a total focus on the new FAI schedules and put it all together in a complete laser and cnc cut kit. Yes it shares the same basic look and outlines of the V2, but totally refined and improved in both flying and building qualities. This new design has improved stability in gusty wind conditions, excellent rolling abilities and a powerful rudder. A high profile fuselage with a whole lot of side area makes this plane stand apart from the typical design. All that with very very low, almost zero mixes.
Arch Stafford started testing the prototype VF3x a couple months before Nats and only took delivery on his personal plane the weekend before Nats. With less than 30 flights on his primary ship he took a solid 2nd in Masters at the 2007 Nats winning 5 out of 6 prelim rounds and was just edged out during the finals. Mike and Arch also feel that this plane may be the ideal weapon for all classes from sportsman's on up to FAI, it's just that good. I've never seen TRUE 6 sided knife edge loops ever done before, this plane makes it look too easy.
Mike is currently shipping kits, from a low-cost basic package to a full blown, sheeted, carbon, all options kit. All with very reasonable pricing, check his website for more info at http://www.customairframes.com/.
One other thing, yes even a "Caveman could build a Black Magic" (sorry I just had to steal that)
Also for more background check these other links on RCU.
I guess most of the RCU Pattern regulars know me by now. I am a good friend of Mikes, live about 20 mins. from his shop and I like to BUILD my own planes. In the past year I have built or building four V2s, two vf3s, and painted a number of Black Magics. I spent most of the last year improving my shop and equipment, that included purchasing a professional vinyl cutter, spray guns, air brushes, etc etc... I've also built a number of fixture jigs and I think I was one of the first guys to use lasers in the building process. I have tried to push my own abilities and knowledge in the shop. Many of you have seen some of the results of my work at this years Nats.
I really enjoy working in the shop, so much so that it actually interferes with my practice time. Talking about finding a balance, sometimes it's tough, but I think building is my personal therapy, or maybe I am just crazy like that. You guys that know me might understand, I can get a lot of enjoyment from just sanding a piece of balsa wood.
So let's build a Black Magic VF3. We are going to start with the fuselage.
So grab a VF3 kit, clear off the bench and let's get started.
I hope you all enjoy the process,
Dean Funk
< Message edited by handglider -- 8/2/2007 12:19:56 AM >
Posts: 694
Joined: 3/14/2005 From: Hotlanta,
GA, USA Status: offline
Okay let's get started on the fuse.
Layout the formers, firewall parts and fuse sides. Take a quick inventory on the parts needed to complete the basic crutch.
In the new kits Mike is including the stringers. But here I am striping 8 1/4" sq. stringers from a plank of 1/4 contest wood. I use a basic balsa stripper, the technique here is to select a piece of wood that has straight grain. if there is a big curve in the grain or if the wood is warped you will not get the required result, a straight stinger. Make long smooth cuts, use a sharp blade and cut all the way through on one pass.
These stingers I've cut here are about 4 grams each.
Yes it's very important to weigh every peice of wood and every drop of glue. Make a check sheet and record your weights.
< Message edited by handglider -- 8/1/2007 2:59:07 AM >
Posts: 694
Joined: 3/14/2005 From: Hotlanta,
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When using the balsa stripper adjust it to make perfect 1/4 square stingers. Use one of the formers to test the stingers in the notch. Tab the former into the fuse side and check the fit. Small adjustments to the stripper can make a huge difference in fit. If anything you want the stinger to be just a bit too big than small.
Posts: 694
Joined: 3/14/2005 From: Hotlanta,
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Next using the 45° miter box and razor saw, cut 45's on one end of each stinger, using a 72" straight edge as a guide, butt glue 2 stingers together to form a 72" stinger.
When selecting the stingers to glue together, select good pairs and glue the straighter ends together.
once you have 4 sets of stringers set that aside and let's put the firewall together.
< Message edited by handglider -- 8/1/2007 4:08:20 AM >
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Joined: 3/14/2005 From: Hotlanta,
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Okay, let's layup the firewall.
I like to add some .030 carbon plate to the firewall, it looks super cool, adds little weight and just makes the final product look more professional. I get my carbon plate from CST - http://www.cstsales.com/carbon_plate.html
What I do is prep the firewall ply and balsa pieces with some 150 grit sandpaper. Cut a piece of the carbon plate about an inch bigger than the firewall. Rough up one side of the carbon plate with 150 grit and cover the other side with masking tape or a product like Sticky Mikeys frisket material. You can get it here and it's handy stuff - http://www.dixieart.com/Accessories.html
At this point you need to identify what is the front of the firewall, the plywood donut is shifted to the left while viewing the firewall from the rear. The balsa firewall doubler goes behind the firewall, with the carbon plate in front.
Once everything is prepped, I mix up a small batch of West Systems epoxy with either the 206 or 205 hardener - http://www.cstsales.com/west_system_epoxy.html . I coat the front of the ply firewall and place it on top of the prepped side of the carbon plate, I then coat the backside of the ply firewall and place the balsa doubler in place - I then run a bead of epoxy around the edge of the ply donut and slide that into place. Wipe any excess epoxy away.
I lay a piece of wax paper onto of the stack and put 150-200 lbs of weight ontop while it cures overnight.
< Message edited by handglider -- 8/1/2007 4:40:06 AM >
Posts: 694
Joined: 3/14/2005 From: Hotlanta,
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Here is the finished firewall. I left the carbon plate covering the stringer slots, this makes for a cleaner look. Shaping the carbon is easy with 150 grit paper on a block. At 65 grams this works just fine.... next step is to mark and drill holes for the blind nuts. I lost .2 gram after trimming the carbon from the firewall, using 200 lbs in the press helps put the squeeze on.
< Message edited by handglider -- 8/1/2007 3:46:32 AM >
Posts: 694
Joined: 3/14/2005 From: Hotlanta,
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Now let's glue the fuse fore/aft sections together. The aft fuse sections are identical and the fore sections have the right thurst built into their respective lengths. what I do is fit one side together and strap a piece of 2" wide masking tape pulling the two pieces together tightly. Flip the fuse side over and tape it to the edge of a 72" straight edge. position the tape so that it pulls the sections towards the center.
I have starting using Mercury Adhesives CA for this build and I do recommend these products. These CAs are different and better than any other CA products that I have used in the past. This stuff rocks.
I just hit the seam with thin ca and yer done, then block sand the sides flat across the seem with a large block just enough to make a flat surface for the doubler.
these pictures say it all.
< Message edited by handglider -- 8/1/2007 4:13:04 AM >
Posts: 694
Joined: 3/14/2005 From: Hotlanta,
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Anthony and Martinoto,
Thanks!
I will outline the construction of my fixture jig shortly, and sorry it doesn't come with the kit. If you would like to build one of these the cost is less than 20 bucks for the materials and I could cut the stations and tail blocks for you at a reasonable price.
I would also recomend Pete Cosky's jig at http://petesrc.home.comcast.net/ Mike uses Pete's jig and will be outlining that on the electric thread.
stay tuned we are about to get the fuse in the jig
Posts: 694
Joined: 3/14/2005 From: Hotlanta,
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Okay...
Let's mark up and drill the firewall for the Hyde mount - Mike designed this plane around the Hyde AR-80 mount and strongly suggests "no substitutes". But any mount can be installed as long as you can fit it within the 6 3/8" between the firewall to spinner back plate. I learned this the hard way when on my first VF3 build I tried to install the high dollar Hyde ARIA-S mount which is about 6 5/8", yea that won't work...
The first photo is of the firewall from the plans indicating the proper position for the mount's center line. I created a template from the actual mount, taped it to the firewall and drill for 6/32 blind nuts. Just double check everything before drilling. There is critical alignment between the engine mounting position, cowl, and chin, there is a lot going on here so just take your time. When we mount the cowling you will see how that all fits together.
Don't worry if you mess up the position it's easy enough to plug the bad holes with dowels and epoxy and re drill, so don't stress to much.
Once done tap in 6/32 blind mounting nuts - I like using the T-nuts you can get from Lowes or Home Depot - they have a larger mounting flange than the usual hobby shop variety.
< Message edited by handglider -- 8/1/2007 10:42:01 PM >
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