RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread  
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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/6/2008 2:57:38 PM   
wlcornelius


 

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From: Guntersville, AL, USA
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My header don't line up eather, an it was made just for this plane an engine. Ordered it from someone in Canada.

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/6/2008 3:19:00 PM   
rcpattern



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From: D''Hanis, TX, USA
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Wendell,

I've yet to see ANY header line up absolutely perfectly down the center of the fuse. Even the ones for my rear exhaust OS 1.40's were not perfect. It really doesn't make any difference though. Even the short hatori header and pipe I'm using now, i'm not 100% they are dead center on the fuse. I know that they certainly weren't aligned with any special tools. Mike and I set the header and pipe where it looked close and drilled the holes. Makes absolutely no difference. On the old pattern planes, it wasnt unusual for the pipe to be significantly offset from the center of the fuse and headers had to get around nose gears and such,

Arch

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/6/2008 3:25:40 PM   
wlcornelius


 

Posts: 210
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From: Guntersville, AL, USA
Status: online
Sounds good to me on that . How about the tunnal for the pipe, it will have to be opened like the pic shows right, on the v2 the belly was removable not like the V3.

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/6/2008 4:16:08 PM   
Ryan Smith


 

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From: Browns Summit, NC, USA
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Do my eyes deceive me, or is that a huge dip on the left side of the fuselage?

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/6/2008 5:23:12 PM   
grcourtney


 

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From: huntsville, AL, USA
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optical dillusion ryan> it is sunday morning!!!! LOL!

gary

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/6/2008 5:30:36 PM   
wlcornelius


 

Posts: 210
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From: Guntersville, AL, USA
Status: online
No dip here

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/7/2008 1:32:51 AM   
rcpattern



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Wendell,

You can make it open tunnel or not. On my old Eclipse the pipe was enclosed, but you had to install it from the front. It was a pain, but could be done. Having an open tunnel is kind of an advantage though. Makes it easier to check on it and such. You can do it enclosed if you wanted though,

Arch

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/8/2008 4:16:31 PM   
handglider


 

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Hi all,

Just finished getting the electric twins in fiberglass. I wasn't able to buy the old standby .55 oz cloth from CST (out of stock at the time) and went with the .7 oz cloth and WOW what a improvement in usability and fill-ability with the microballons. Mike also used the .7 cloth on the other two electrics. We both agree that the advantage will be less primer weight to fill the weave. It's also even easier to apply the microballons using the "rub" method. The reality is primer can add 4-5 oz and is where the big weight gain is, not the cloth and resin.

Between the rain, wind, cold and pollen I had a week of delays. But the twins are looking sweet. I still have to prep and finish the fiberglass but should have these two in primer by the end of the week.

I'll post some pics later....

cheers!

Dean




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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/9/2008 1:22:09 AM   
handglider


 

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here is a pic of the twins ready for trimming. I should have the fiberglass close to finished tomorrow, there might be a little-fix it here are there but anything would be minor. Oh it's spring time in Atlanta, to much pollen outside, the other picture is the cover of a black grill tottally covered and green with it. No painting outside, I did the microballoons outside on the twins and I am sure I got .5%of the weave filled with this green stuff. I hope to have them in primer in about 2 days, we got more rain coming in for friday, so I am hoping to get them all primered and ready for wet sanding while it's raining

Time to set up my 2-car garage as a paint booth...

later all!

dean




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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/9/2008 7:06:59 PM   
handglider


 

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Here a shot from this morning. I did the last bit of the glass work, finishing the front of the lower turtle deck and the fin posts of the twins.

I am really impressed with the .7 cloth, really happy with the results so far - the close up shot is without any sanding yet. the glassed surface looks awesome and should require very little time sanding = prepping before primer. Very happy so far with the glass on these two fine planes. If all goes well I should be in primer tomorrow !!!!



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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/9/2008 7:08:45 PM   
handglider


 

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my personal VF3 is sitting in primer just waiting for the twins.... hope to paint all 3 at the same time !!!

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/16/2008 2:09:44 AM   
srekar


 

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From: Plainsboro, NJ, USA
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Dean/Mike

I just finished the initial sanding after primer. I used the KlassKote primer and was very easy to sand. After initial sanding, I added 12 Grams of primer.

Question here is,
Can I just start adding trim colors directly on sanded primer or I must use the base color (white) before the trim colors?

Sorry for duplicate photos. I am not able to delete one.

..Srikar



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< Message edited by srekar -- 4/16/2008 2:18:26 AM >

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/16/2008 3:00:04 AM   
handglider


 

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Hi Srikar,

I see from your photo that you sanded off almost all the primer. I am not sure of your painting experience, I''ll share mine.

You really have two options,

A: If your using a high solids paint like Concept DCC. you could do a white base - a little on the heavy side and then wet sand it to perfection with 400-600 grit. Be prepared to do touch up and work on pin holes. You could be surprised to fin a lot of pinholes and areas where you sanded thru the cloth. So going straight to a white base could /can be done if your base is sealed and smooth. Did you wet sand the plane in this photo?

B: Shoot another coat of primer with your paint gun. Fix any pinholes / dry areas and then sand that coat of primer to perfection with 400-600 grit wet. Try to get a very thin and even coat of primer. You might have to go back with a large airbrush and shoot more primer in spots where you sanded thru. Then shoot color without the need to base the entire plane in white. If your using DCC the colors cover the gray primer very well. If your using a lesser quality of paint you may have to base your whole plane in white.


I would suggest you shoot a nice even coat of primer and see how well you filled and sealed the wave before you shoot any color. What can happen is if you shoot a white base coat now you might have too many small surface defects like pinholes, dry areas, and bare wood. You won''t know until you spray paint on the surfaces...

Also - the paint brands of "shop line" and "value pro" are very thin paints and you should avoid using them, my suggestion is to also stick to DCC Concept...

It looks like your on the right track, the plane looks great so far. Good luck and happy priming

Dean



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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/16/2008 3:12:11 AM   
handglider


 

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Hey Srikar,

I was just looking back on the discussion on primer and there is more stuff I wrote back on page 14 and around there..

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6925919

There is more info on the whole fiberglassing and priming subject.

good luck !


Dean

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RE: Black Magic VF3 Build Thread - 4/16/2008 3:27:18 AM   
srekar


 

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From: Plainsboro, NJ, USA
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Dean,
Since I used the epoxy paint, was not sure if I can go for white base stright. I remember you saying on the other post that, we can go white base after the sanding of rolled primer. So I thought of following that.

But as you said, I may find too many defects on white base if go for it now. So it may be a good thing for me to go for second coat of primer as you suggested.

Also, I got my Scorpion 2 with Tank compressor last week along with the eclipse BCS from Dixieart . I am thinking to use that for primer step by step.

I dry sanded the plane shown in photo.

Will post the pictures after the 2nd coat of primer and let you know how it goes.

..Srikar

< Message edited by srekar -- 4/18/2008 11:50:35 PM >

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