Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ?  
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Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/11/2007 12:06:59 PM   
NikolayTT


 

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Hi Fellows,

If Methanol is mixed at home with only Castor oil 20% the price for fuel is lot(!!!) lower and the engines last much longer.
Further more, if increase the oil to 30% (and rest only) methanol makes the same rpm (!) as 5% nitro CoolPower fuel.
Surely one has to "wash" the engine&tank at the end of the flying day with one flight with 30% Aerosave(synthetic)oil
and methanol; then spray about 20cc of only aerosave oil inside, rotate with starter and next flight could be even
the ... next year, no corrosion and no black sediments in the engine - it is jist like new inside. I have used this
many years and currently the tachometer readings are on OS.91, standard mufler, rpm 12800 on 13x7 Graupner
g-sonic propeller in either case, CoolPower 5% or my mixture of 30% oil and 70% methanol. Surely there should
be some explanation why higher oil content makes more power; I do not know that; some idea ? Also, what do you
think, do you see any problems in this approach ? Of course glow plug is A3 not OS8, and the shim under the head
is thiner or "lost"; no detoinations and cool running nicely engine with good enough idle and transitions.

Cheers,
Nick
       Post #: 1

RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/11/2007 10:24:01 PM   
pe reivers



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Heck, you found out you can do without nitro! Also, that engines run on oil.
Now it's no secret anymore?
enjoy.

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Pe, Dealer for MVVS, MTW and Mejzlik; www.mvvs.nl
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(in reply to NikolayTT)
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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/11/2007 11:30:44 PM   
XJet


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: pe reivers

Heck, you found out you can do without nitro! Also, that engines run on oil.
Now it's no secret anymore?
enjoy.


Yeah, I flew for about 40 years without using a drop of nitromethane -- just good old 80% methanol, 20% oil (castor or MSSR).

These days however, I'm finding that my (modern, primarily designed for the US-market) engines run perceptably better with as little as 5% nitro so that's what I use.

Oil however, is a whole different story ;-)

Using a (far) smaller amount of the modern hi-tech synthetic oils (which doesn't mean Morgans or Klotz) can produce some significant performance increases without sacrificing protection or longevity. It's still nice to have a few percent of castor to act as a corrosion inhibitor and "last line of defense" against a protracted lean-run though.

Model engine technology has come a long way in the last 40 years, so has lubrication technology. It makes little sense to use 40-year-old oils in a modern engine.


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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/12/2007 5:26:49 AM   
NikolayTT


 

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Hi Guys,

Do you suggest to use some Oil-type which one can buy in an ordinary Gasoline Station
and which is used for the 2-strocke bikes/scooters for example ?
In fact that would be very interesting solution and I believe cheaper than Aerosave oil,
which here is about 17 Euro per liter. Sure, price is an issue if one is flying lot more than
couple gallons per year. Castor costs 4 Euro and the Methanol I am buying is 0.8 euro
per liter. I.e. I am flying almost for "free" if we compare the price per galon CoolPower
of any nitro content including 0%, and even cheaper than Gasoline ... almost.

Regards,
Nick

(in reply to XJet)
       Post #: 4

RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/12/2007 10:12:26 AM   
pe reivers



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These oils do not mix with methanol. The synthetics that do mix are still quite oldfashioned, and the market is too small to do a lot of research for the right additives. That may change if all engines will be required to run on E80 ethanol fuel. Then we would get some decent synthetics that would be as good as castor oil. The Fuchs oils Aerosave and Aerosynth are closing the gap, but are not up to par with castor.

_____________________________

Pe, Dealer for MVVS, MTW and Mejzlik; www.mvvs.nl
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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/12/2007 10:16:04 AM   
XJet


 

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There's not much you can buy from the gas station that will mix with methanol unfortunately.

Virtually all of the modern 2-stroke mixes (for gasoline engines) will not mix with methanol so can't be used.

Here in New Zealand we have the same problem -- oils like CoolPower/Morgans and Klotz are expensive because you must use so much of them (18%-20%). That's why we've been using Coopers Plus C oil. It costs a little more per litre but can safely be used at 12% or less (by volume) so the actual cost (per litre of fuel) is lower than CoolPower/Morgans or Klotz -- and you get better engine performance and protection as well.

I've found that, when mixed at 12% by volume, fuel made with Coopers oils and 5% nitro gives the same RPMs as a fuel that contains 18% of CoolPower oil and 12% nitro -- but at a lower total cost.

In your part of the world you've got AeroSave, AeroSynth and Motul Micro which are also (I believe) very good oils that will work quite happily at ratios as low as 10%-12% by volume.

This means that a litre of AeroSave/Synth/Motul would make almost 11 litres of fuel. A litre of CoolPower/Morgans, Klotz or castor by comparison, will only make 6 litres of fuel. Do the sums and you may find that those expensive oils actually aren't so expensive after all.

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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/12/2007 10:58:35 AM   
NikolayTT


 

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Couple fellows arround here run their 20cc and 26cc OSMax on 16% Nitro, 16% Aerosave, and rest Methanol and still ... wander
whey have to change so frequently engine parts, recently one of them had the connecting rod comming ... out of the crankcase.
Aerosave oil seems very good, but it is not a "magic" one. Those around here who use it and do not change engine parts so
frequently are telling that they use it at 20% with 10% Nitro and rest Methanol; those are mostly F3A guys; I was surprised
that most of them do not go beyond 10% even for F3A where they care even too much for power output.

When I asked why not Castor, the only answer was that only the greese and smell is the problem, since Castor is difficult to
wipe out as the Aerosaveoil is; in fact it seems Fuchs has even added some kind of nice smell to it; ohh... those Germans ....
Well, if someone has problems with washing oils, then he better go to Electric as soon as possible, isn't it.

As for the oils in Gasoline station, I just jumped there and the best Fully Synthetic Shell-made Oil is 'Advance Ultra for 2S'.
Its price is 13.6 euro per liter, and even if mixes or not with Methanol, this for sure does NOT "mix with my valet" - it it is
about 3x more expensive than Castor even if I add the price for washing liquids I have to by to clean my models.

At the local Shell station they didn't know about the MVVS's adviced 'Shell-Racing-M'. I wander how much that might cost
and Where to Get that from ??

Still, it remains MYSTERY at which Oil % the delivered power is similar to 5% Nitro CoolPower, and WHY is that ?
Of course if there is such Optimal proportion, that would depend on the Oil type. Maybe there could be something
like 25,67% of Castor oil when the Power is near to the CoolPower of 10% nitro, or I am just dreaming in too
early and in a Daytime for Christmas Presents ???

Let me trow the dices: - I would, in a simple minded approach, suggest that Power increase at higher oil
content is due to a bit Higher Compression in the chamber and a bit less Friction in all moving parts ?!?!
Would you support such Explanation or you have some more, hopefully at least a bit more scientific one ?

Cheers,
Nick

(in reply to XJet)
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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/12/2007 12:22:10 PM   
pe reivers



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Your assumption is scientific enough.

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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/19/2007 1:06:07 PM   
Marcol



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From: King's Lynn, UNITED KINGDOM
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quote:

ORIGINAL: pe reivers

The Fuchs oils Aerosave and Aerosynth are closing the gap, but are not up to par with castor.


Pe,
Whilst I value your knowledge and experience, I have been using a fuel containing Aerosave for about 5 years now and the performance , cleanliness and corrosion protection offered by Aerosave puts castor oil very much in the 20th century.

I'm curious why you still think that castor oil is better. I certainly would never use it again.

It would be like using an old fashioned mineral oil in your gas engine !

Colin


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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/19/2007 1:23:08 PM   
NikolayTT


 

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I hope Pe gives the professional answer, but meanwhile I can share what I am doing: Flying whole day with Castor and the last flight - with Aerosave.
Then spray 20cc of Aerosave oil inside rotate 20 sec with starter and next flight could be after a year, no corrosion at all. Engines are looking extremely
happy. I guess the only bad things about castor are: 1) It is not good to be inside of any metal thing longer than needed. 2) It is not good for lower
temperatures, like winter flying - then only Aerosave oil would work.

(in reply to Marcol)
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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/19/2007 2:50:12 PM   
pe reivers



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nikolay,
I think your way of using castor is excellent and shows insight of the needs of an engine.
In my tests on small MVVS engines (8cc and smaller), I also tested Aerosave and Aerosynth, along with other synthetics. The first runs with the synthetic, the engines run like with the devil on their heels, wit a lot more power. Then slowly, power tapered off until the engine would barely run like at half throttle settings, whilst needle adjustments became nearly impossible. Restoring the engine to castor mix, also restored power within a tankful of fuel. I am not alone in these observations.
I now use Tornado fuel with extra castor, which is the only one synthetic that works for my small MVVS engines. Larger engines run well on Aerosave and Aerosynth.
Blending Castor with Aero* did not work well, because the additives in the Fuchs oils causes some strange jelly stuff formation, that plugged the needle jet.
As far as I know, it is only MVVS that responds this way to synthetic oils, but it goes to show that castor oil has no lubrication limits. It becomes thicker at temperatures at which other oils fail. This cannot be said in favor of synthetic oils.
I too abhor the castor mess, but that is no reason to downgrade the lubrication properties of 20th century castor, which still is way ahead of the synthetics that will blend with methanol.
Fuchs succeeded in develloping additives to improve the base stock. These additives are not compatible with castor. Other synthetic oil manufacturers went to castor oil blends (compounded oil) to achieve at least some of the castor benefits.
In standard lubrication history (not for methanol) Compounding mineral oil with castor up to 10% improved the dino oil quality above both the stock oil and the castor. This worked well until the advance of the synthetics, which can be engineered to exactly the purpose they are needed for. Too bad, these syntitics (none of them) will mix with methanol, so they are of no use to us.

< Message edited by pe reivers -- 8/19/2007 2:53:52 PM >


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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/20/2007 4:59:43 AM   
XJet


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: pe reivers
In my tests on small MVVS engines (8cc and smaller), I also tested Aerosave and Aerosynth, along with other synthetics. The first runs with the synthetic, the engines run like with the devil on their heels, wit a lot more power. Then slowly, power tapered off until the engine would barely run like at half throttle settings, whilst needle adjustments became nearly impossible. Restoring the engine to castor mix, also restored power within a tankful of fuel. I am not alone in these observations.

This is *very* strange. Perhaps (as you suggest) it's behaviour peculiar to MVVS engines. I've found that after witching to a good synth/cator blend my engines "run like with the devil on their heels" but just keep on going.

quote:

As far as I know, it is only MVVS that responds this way to synthetic oils, but it goes to show that castor oil has no lubrication limits.

Not strictly true. If it were true then you could *never* seize or damage an engine running a fuel with castor for oil. The reality is that you can damage engines even when running castor-based fuels.

quote:

It becomes thicker at temperatures at which other oils fail. This cannot be said in favor of synthetic oils.

That is true. Although castor does reduce in viscosity as it gets warmer, it does polymerize rather than vaporize, thus creating a solid layer that acts to limit metal-to-metal contact -- but this is kind of like saying "you should fly over water or snow because crashing in the ground may damage your motor" because...

The reality is that if you tune your engine properly, modern synthetics will operate well-within the temperature range at which they protect and lubricate well. There are legions of folks who have run nothing but synthetic oil (and some of them even run rather poor PGA-based synthetic oils) but have never had a lubrication-related failure.

The best way to avoid heat-related engine damage is to tune your engines properly and ensure adequate cooling.

quote:

I too abhor the castor mess, but that is no reason to downgrade the lubrication properties of 20th century castor, which still is way ahead of the synthetics that will blend with methanol.

Define "ahead" :-)

It should be remembered that different folks have different priorities in respect to what an oil should do. In the areas of extracting better fuel-economy and performance, the synthetics are *better* than castor. In extremely cold conditions, synthetics outperform castor simply because they don't suffer such a drop in viscosity. In the area of mixing with high amounts of nitromethane the synthetics win again because it becomes very hard to keep castor in solution with high nitro percentages.

True, castor will provide additional "last chance" protection against a lean run -- but if you're the kind of modeller who knows how to tune their engine and who recognizes the symptoms of a lean engine (thus landing immediately), this may be of lesser importance than the benefits you get from a synthetic oil.

quote:

Fuchs succeeded in develloping additives to improve the base stock. These additives are not compatible with castor. Other synthetic oil manufacturers went to castor oil blends (compounded oil) to achieve at least some of the castor benefits.

I've not used Fuch's oil but it might pay to try a different brand of castor just to make sure it's not additives in the castor that are causing the problem. Some companies (such as Klotz and Morgan) claim to add "friction modifiers" and other chemicals to their castor. These may have caused the gelling you speak of.

quote:

In standard lubrication history (not for methanol) Compounding mineral oil with castor up to 10% improved the dino oil quality above both the stock oil and the castor. This worked well until the advance of the synthetics, which can be engineered to exactly the purpose they are needed for. Too bad, these syntitics (none of them) will mix with methanol, so they are of no use to us.

The most common synthetic bases used for automotive engines are PAOs (polyalpha Olifens) and Esters. The first will not mix with alcohol but I gather the second will. Some synthetic motor oils seem to be almost entirely PAO, others Esters. Another group seems to run a blend of both.

The fact that Motul and a few of the other advanced model synthetics are also ester-based indicates that our better model lubes are every bit as good as the automotive ones these days.

In the meantime, I'll keep running a synth/castor blend and get the best of both worlds. Great performance, excellent protection and minumum mess :-)

Note: I'm not a chemist or an oil expert but I'm learning as much as I can as fast as I can ;-)



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RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/20/2007 11:37:24 AM   
NikolayTT


 

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Well, there would be a point to take more seriously the Synthetic oils, as you suggested, but when you look at
the PRICING the good reasons are downgraded by a factor of at least 4 since the price for one liter Castor from
industry is about 4 Euro, while for reliable synthetic oil you cannot get it for less than 17-20 Euro per liter.
Of course I am talking about frequent flyiers, and after see what is the peromance of my several OS.91FX,
i.e. exactly as Pe wrote, they need to get a tank with castor oil fuel (25% in my case) and then they work
again much better. Can you explain that, and if you do not find explanation, maybe it is good to try and
see by yourself ? - It is not a coincidence that many non-castor oil guys buy a lot of spare parts; that makes
the castor "priceless" and the synthetic oil - much more like an additional "Tax office". Surely I agree about
that castor is more messy and it is not good for lower temperatures, but at freesing temperatures I guess
most RC people build next plane instead of getting their fingers "out of use"; I am happy with castor untill
the temperature goes below +5 Deg C; then also my fingers tell me "go home".

(in reply to XJet)
       Post #: 13

RE: Oil 30% is like ... 5% nitro, how about that ? - 8/21/2007 4:27:19 AM   
XJet