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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design >> 1st build 2nd spad
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1st build 2nd spad - 8/16/2007 12:04:52 AM   
Dave trimmer


 

Posts: 496
Joined: 10/10/2005
From: Hamilton, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		How big should the size of my sign board be dimension wise? I think mine is 4mill, 2 ft buy 18". Will this be large enough. also what type of glue should I use to fold it? I will be making a dog fighter like some geek's in the other thread, good work some geek.

thanks, dave trimmer

< Message edited by Dave trimmer -- 8/16/2007 12:09:23 AM >

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a minute of perfection was worth the effort. A moment was the most you could ever expect from perfection. - chuck Palahniuk
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RE: 1st build 2nd spad - 8/16/2007 1:10:14 AM   
air-madness


 

Posts: 140
Joined: 2/27/2007
From: , IN, USA
Status: offline 		Well some people use poly glues (Gorilla glue etc). I have used Gorilla glue, but it takes a bit of practice on its application; it likes to expand about three times when hardenning compared to its liquid state. I like the results too -- very strong. You can also use C.A. glue (super glue). I have, and do, use C.A. glue but the end result is a rather brittle glue joint. A poly based glue will give that added 'flex' that is needed with a SPAD. Also, I havent had to "flash" the coro using poly glues, just a little bit of 120 sandpaper where I plan on gluing, then a wipe with alcohol to clean -- that works. Poly glues take a bit to cure whereas the C.A. is instant.

_____________________________

What goes up must come down (sometimes hard), so build a SPAD and save some cash, man.

(in reply to Dave trimmer)
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RE: 1st build 2nd spad - 8/16/2007 1:41:59 AM   
coolbean



Posts: 1058
Joined: 7/6/2005
From: liberty, MO, USA
Status: offline 		When using poly glue you can use a woodpecker to poke holes through the coro. That way when the glue foams up it bubbles up through the holes and makes rivits.

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The cake is a lie.

(in reply to air-madness)
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RE: 1st build 2nd spad - 8/16/2007 3:38:36 AM   
A6Ordie



Posts: 75
Joined: 1/24/2007
From: Sparks, NV, USA
Status: offline 		Goop is another option that works well. It's a silicone adhesive and is clear. Poly glue expands and is yellow so it oozes out when you aren't looking and doesn't look atractive. Poly glue works well and I use it, but I tried the Goop on my last SPAD and think I will continue using it. I have never gotten CA to work for me that well

Good Luck,


_____________________________

Dave

(in reply to coolbean)
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RE: 1st build 2nd spad - 8/16/2007 5:28:00 PM   
air-madness


 

Posts: 140
Joined: 2/27/2007
From: , IN, USA
Status: offline 		Yeah, C.A. glue requires more prep attention than poly glues. I found it to only work well by flashing the coro, sanding the coro, cleaning the coro, and then gluing it. My main gripe about C.A. is the brittle factor. I have had some not-so-nice landings...the glue seam/joint has broken apart many times. When this happens you literally have to clean the surfaces to be bonded all over again to get a nice clean surface. I haven't tried Goop, but will, since there seems to be a rather large consensus about it. Oh yeah, if one usues C.A. it is very important not to move the peices that have been touched together -- the glue simply will not hold.

_____________________________

What goes up must come down (sometimes hard), so build a SPAD and save some cash, man.

(in reply to A6Ordie)
       Post #: 5

RE: 1st build 2nd spad - 8/16/2007 6:49:37 PM   
TruBlu02



Posts: 307
Joined: 1/3/2004
From: Cabot, AR, USA
Status: offline 		I have only used CA and never had a problem with it. To flash I just use white vinegar and slap it together. I have had some hard landings and I really do abuse my planes and never had an issue with the seams breaking. Main downside with CA though is there is no room for error as it is almost instant and you can move it anymore.

(in reply to air-madness)
       Post #: 6

RE: 1st build 2nd spad - 8/18/2007 3:49:53 AM   
OzMo



Posts: 1500
Joined: 9/2/2002
From: OZark, MO, USA
Status: offline 		i still like CA 'cause i'm impatient. i don't mind reinforcing with a few staples from a standard staple gun like used for insulation. curl the ends with a needle nose pliars or hemastat and if it ever comes loose that seam is the least of your problems
you can see some pics in the delta wing post down a few from this one.

< Message edited by OzMo -- 8/18/2007 3:51:44 AM >

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Yes dear, I did glue my hand to the airplane to keep from dropping it.

(in reply to TruBlu02)
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RE: 1st build 2nd spad - 8/18/2007 6:29:24 AM   
somegeek



Posts: 2117
Joined: 8/1/2005
From: Vancouver, WA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: coolbean

When using poly glue you can use a woodpecker to poke holes through the coro. That way when the glue foams up it bubbles up through the holes and makes rivits.


Took this shot when I was building my dogfighter...



Mist the area you will glue and run your finger down to press the water into the woodpeckered holes. The Poly-U glue foams more when it's hit with moisture. If you don't have a woodpecker, drill a half dozen holes in the end of a paint stir stick and glue in some cut-off T-pin ends. I glued my in so they only stuck out 1/8". Worked great for my joints.

I've heard folks get great results with both CA and Poly-U - both benefit greatly from proper prep work.

Try one or the other and use the one you have confidence in. Myself I've used Poly-U for my wings and CA for my coro fuselages. Been happy with both.

somegeek

< Message edited by somegeek -- 8/18/2007 6:31:44 AM >

_____________________________

Fly safe, have fun. Measure three times, cut once. The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.

(in reply to coolbean)
       Post #: 8

RE: 1st build 2nd spad - 8/26/2007 9:05:21 AM   
grubby120


 

Posts: 9
Joined: 8/26/2007
From: Whitsundays, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		All i use is plumbers grade silicon...works fine ...

cheers...Dean.

(in reply to Dave trimmer)
       Post #: 9

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