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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> "1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes >> RE: Keith Laumer
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RE: Keith Laumer - 9/3/2007 7:35:42 AM   
David Ingham


 

Posts: 166
Joined: 8/22/2007
From: , CA, USA
Status: offline 		On the second page after the introduction, preface and acknowledgment, he says "If you're tired of reading already, you can stop now and build Pipsqueek from the full-size plans shown in Fig. 2." And then, in case you are still reading, he says "(In fact, it wouldn't hurt to build two, in case one lands on the roof.)".

(in reply to tri-pacer)
       Post #: 101

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/3/2007 10:13:53 AM   
g-rock



Posts: 143
Joined: 9/21/2004
From: Newport News, VA, USA
Status: offline 		David,
The Teenie Genie Has a wingspan of 16", pretty small for a 1/2a.
Gene

(in reply to David Ingham)
       Post #: 102

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/3/2007 6:01:39 PM   
tri-pacer


 

Posts: 120
Joined: 5/20/2007
From: napa, CA, USA
Status: online 		Hi all,

I spent this weekend, or should I say Sunday, cutting out parts for the Yardbird. One thing I noticed, after I cut the fuse formers, is that the dawings, as in most old hand drawn plans, are not symmetrical. So this morning I will trace and square the former drawings and cut new formers. I know this is nothing new for most of you, including myself, but when having a few glasses of wine when preforming this exercise one tends to, shall we say, let these little things slip by. By the way, I cut the fuse sides, wing tips, stab and rudder before the wine!

chuck

(in reply to g-rock)
       Post #: 103

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/3/2007 8:26:52 PM   
BMatthews



Posts: 9015
Joined: 10/4/2002
From: Burnaby, BC, CANADA
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: g-rock

David,
The Teenie Genie Has a wingspan of 16", pretty small for a 1/2a.
Gene



But double that would be a fine size for that style of model with an 049 or equivalent 'lecky.

... now to find a double sized ping pong ball...... I suppose a wiffle ball would work but it would look too much like me with lots of holes in my head....

_____________________________

Witty saying to be plagarized shortly.....

(in reply to g-rock)
       Post #: 104

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/5/2007 6:50:10 PM   
tri-pacer


 

Posts: 120
Joined: 5/20/2007
From: napa, CA, USA
Status: online 		Hey Bruce,

A little off the subject, but I found this picture on the SAM website and it appears to be the Starflight. Do you happen to know the person holdding it? The picture says Allan Laycock. I wonder if he has a scan of the correct airfloils for this. Anyway, makes me want to build this after I finish my Yardbird.

chuck

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       Post #: 105

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/6/2007 12:05:37 AM   
buzzard bait


 

Posts: 1026
Joined: 1/1/2003
From: Ithaca, NY, USA
Status: online 		Reid, I think steerable nose gear is a totally unnecessary complication on a plane like this.

I had this revelation when I refurbished an ancient Goldberg Skylark, which has fixed nose gear. To my surprise, it taxied around just fine without any direct steering. All I had to do was keep 'up' elevator during the taxi and steer around with the rudder. Just give a blast of power if you need to tighten the turn. The elevator takes the pressure off the nose, and the plane just pivots on the mains in response to rudder.

Much simpler and lighter, plus you can use a micro servo for rudder without worrying about the nose gear stripping the servo.

Jim

(in reply to fritzke)
       Post #: 106

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/6/2007 5:47:18 AM   
David Ingham


 

Posts: 166
Joined: 8/22/2007
From: , CA, USA
Status: offline 		I have started dabbling in RC. Around 1980 I watched an RC club fly wonderful stunts, but they told me the electrical equipment alone weighed a pound. I had never built a model anywhere near a pound, so I decided to let Moor's law crunch on the weight and cost for a few more decades before I had another look. (I did try one used RC model in between.)
At this point, I have a Cox Miro-Warbird P40 with one of my old Babe Bees on it, cause the motor shorted in a crash and fried the power control device on the Rx board.
Teenie Genie is clearly not for a beginner or for one out of practice, and an RC version of it would need a lot of aileron control to keep it right side up.
So maybe I should think of something like Pushup that doesn't need much if anything from the pilot. It might even withstand enough crashes so my nieces and nephews could use it.
I bought a couple of Wee Wees on eBay, cause 049 seems large to me for beginner RC now They maybe too late for the P40, it may be history by the time they come.

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RE: Keith Laumer - 9/6/2007 6:12:17 AM   
David Ingham


 

Posts: 166
Joined: 8/22/2007
From: , CA, USA
Status: offline 		I think a 32 inch span Teenie Genie would need more than an 049 to fly the way intended, unless you made significant changes. My Flea Whiz is the square root of two times the 020 drawing in the book. I figured, if I kept the thicknesses of the materials the same and only scaled up the area, I would have about the same wing loading and power loading. It worked but is on the gentle side. Nothing like my Flightstreak.

(in reply to David Ingham)
       Post #: 108

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/6/2007 6:51:16 AM   
BMatthews



Posts: 9015
Joined: 10/4/2002
From: Burnaby, BC, CANADA
Status: online 		If kept to around the 12 oz mark I think a Teenie Genie 32 incher would be a wonderful sport/stunt model. Granted it doesn't have a LOT of wing area but the low aspect ration should make up for a lot of this and allow it to fly well.

Tri-Pacer, you're right. That pic DOES look a lot like a blown up Starlight. Complete with my own name mistake that added the "f" to the name!

A local flyer has made a authentic FF Starlight. But he's fairly new to the whole FF mileiu so he had to resort to having someone else trim it out. From talking to him it's never quite performed as well as I think it's capable of performing.

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       Post #: 109

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/6/2007 7:39:22 AM   
Fravits


 

Posts: 31
Joined: 11/24/2006
From: Simi Valley, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks, Buzzard

I thought back to my original Goldberg Slylane and remembered that it, even power off on roll out, could be steered with just the rudder. I have managed to engineer a very simple and lightweight nose gear assembly but, considering the simplicity of the airframe, it does seem to be a bit of an over complication. Your suggestion has a lot of merit. I'll make the final decision once the fuse is framed up.

Has anybody had any luck finding 1/2A spinners (other than Dave F. and his modified elctritric units)? I just got a 1 5/16 Ace for the V Girl on ebay, but it turned out to be a bit pricey. My LHS can't seem to find anything smaller than an inch and three quarters. At least I've got this project covered.

Reid

(in reply to BMatthews)
       Post #: 110

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/6/2007 7:47:17 AM   
BMatthews



Posts: 9015
Joined: 10/4/2002
From: Burnaby, BC, CANADA
Status: online 		The small spinners are very limited at this point. Ace used to sell plastic 3/4 and 1 inch spinners but with nothing to help mount them to the prop.

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RE: Keith Laumer - 9/6/2007 3:42:54 PM   
fritzke


 

Posts: 871
Joined: 1/3/2002
From: Saint Paul, MN, USA
Status: offline 		DuBro has announced 1 1/4" Electric Spinners in white, black & red. $4ea.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=DUB961
I have seen the larger ones at the LHS, they have a translucent cone and
a machined aluminum backplate.
1 1/2" spinners are no problem , Goldberg, DuBro, Great Planes, Tru-Turn all.
The little 1" spinners have been out of stock at Tower since I mentioned them
a couple weeks ago.
Dave



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RE: Keith Laumer - 9/6/2007 4:01:44 PM   
GrahamC


 

Posts: 548
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Brodak has a new small spinner available but is not listed on their website. It is metal and 1 inch in diameter

see here for an announcement and some details

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=106&topic_id=1690&mesg_id=1690&page=

and a couple of blatantly copied photo's

cheers, Graham


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RE: Keith Laumer - 9/6/2007 8:46:01 PM   
BMatthews



Posts: 9015
Joined: 10/4/2002
From: Burnaby, BC, CANADA
Status: online 		Nice!. Gotta get me some o' dem.

Just to let you all know... I'll be away for 2 weeks on a trip down to Cali and across to the Grand Canyon and up through Utah and back home. So if you need anything you'll have to contact one of the Community Moderators.

When I return the bench is going to be Zambonied off to make way for the Laumer Projects....

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       Post #: 114

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/9/2007 4:27:19 AM   
David Ingham


 

Posts: 166
Joined: 8/22/2007
From: , CA, USA
Status: offline 		I don't see a 1/2 A RC trainer kit for sale. The RC trainers seem to have been designed before radio equipment became so light, and the rubber power kits are too complicated or too small. The Micro Warbird has been of some help but the airframe, motor and power control device on the Rx board are dead.
So a slightly simplified Pushup still seems a good way to learn. I am thinking it is large for my Si Valley apartment, so maybe I will build it 1 1/4 the size of the plans in the book, instead of 1 1/2, but with the wood thicknesses the same. That would make it more rugged on the ground. I have Wee Wees coming for power. This makes it close enough to the original design that it seems sure to work well, without help from the one controlling it.
Maybe if I use aerodynamic balance on the elevators and rudder and short horns, the Cox Micro Warbird servos will move them. I am thinking brass tube and music wire for the hinges, because I don't trust cloth strips for such weak servos.
Has anyone heard of muffler and/or throttle for Wee Wees?

(in reply to BMatthews)
       Post #: 115

RE: Keith Laumer - 9/9/2007 4:53:07 AM   
Fravits


 

Posts: 31
Joined: 11/24/2006
From: Simi Valley, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Hi David,
Glad to hear you are attempting the Pushup. Can't see any reason why it shouldn't work well for you. Why bother with tube and piano wire hinges? Avoid the extra weight and complexity and use Monokote hinges instead. For low powered aircraft, they work well and have next to next to no resistance for the servo to deal with. If tissue and dope are your thing, sewing the surfaces on with threa