TOC-Xtreme Yak-54 - 37.5%
- RTF
Seller:clayhair Details:
$4,850.00
| 11/19/2008
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Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Sorry I am so slow getting more done on the build. I have been working on finishing the Yak that I am giving to my dad for his birthday. I have changed my hinge line procedures a little and have to say I am very pleased with the results.
I have been talking to Greg at CAM about getting some of these planes out there. We would like to put the offer out there for someone to get a plane at cost. What we are looking for is some one that would like to compete with the plane and do a build and review in this thread. We would like to see a experienced flyer and builder do this plane. We know that it is a little bit scary to invest this kind of money on a plane that only a couple of people have flown.
So if any of you guys out there are looking to compete in IMAC and Freestyle next season we would love to talk to you.
Posts: 18
Joined: 12/6/2005 From: nazareth,
PA, USA Status: offline
I have a couple of questions: what is the length of the aircraft? What exactly is included in the short kit? Do you have instructions? Are plans included? is their a list of required materials with each kit? Does the short kit contain templtes to cut your own foam parts? Will their be parts available, like cowls and canopies for rebuild purposes? What does the W-1 kit include? It looks to me like you just have to sheet everything yourself. I am really interested in a kit, but need this info first.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
The length of the aircraft is around 78" if I am remembering correctly. The short kit includes all the laser cut ply parts, canopy and cowl. For right now the instructions will be on this thread. We are not including plans. They are not necessary and would add to the cost of the kit. The fuse all interlocks together in only one way. It is almost imposible to build wrong or crooked. We will probably be putting together a pdf file with instructions in the future. The W-1 kit includes all the foam parts (wings, rudder, stab, and cheeks) already sheeted. The W-2 includes all the foam parts but you have to do the sheeting yourself. Either way with the foam parts you will get the sheeting and balsa for the hinge lines and leading, trailing edges. We are offering the foam parts vaccume bagged for people that don't have the knowledge or ability to sheet it them self. I would highly recomend going with the W-1 for the foam parts. We went this way so that we can control the quality going out and are 100% confident that every thing is sheeted properly. We have spare parts available in the unfortunate event of a crash. I also have laser cut repair sheets for the most common repair (tearing off the motor and gear).
I hope this helps out. We are looking forward to getting some of these planes out there.
Brent
< Message edited by Brent G -- 10/25/2007 2:52:31 PM >
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Looks great! I think a new builder would be great to have posting about the build. I just measured the plane. It is 78" spinner to tail give or take a little depending on the spinner. On the plane that I am setting up for my dad I made the wing tips out of 3/4" balsa. So with the tips added to the wings it measures 87 1/2" ws.
The rudder is set up for pull-pull. Included in the laser cut fuse is a tray to mount the rudder servo. The plane does not build tail heavy. It balances very easy. I mounted the 2 receiver batteries next to the throttle servo and the ignition battery on the side of the motor box. The plane uses the 2 1/2" standard stand-off's. With those you end up with about 3/8" prop clearance infront of the cowl. You can add a 1/4" spacer behind the stand off's to move the motor out a little more.
The holes for the wing tubes are already bored. You will have to bore a hole for the servo wires. I use a peice of 3/8" brass tubing. I heat it up a little with a tourch and it melts a passage through the foam for the wires. There is a hole drilled in the root cap for the wires to go through.
Beveling the hinge line is pretty straight forward. The ailerons use 1/2" balsa and the ele and rudder use 3/8" balsa for the hinge line. I will talk about doing the ailerons. The rudder and ele use the same procedure.
Measure where the center of the hinge line will be at the root and the tip and draw a center line. Draw a line 1/2" on both sides of the center line. Those are the lines you will cut. You also need to draw a line where the ail ends. I end mine at 2 1/2" from the root of the wing. Draw a line parallel to the root of the wing 2 1/2" towards the tip from the root. Then draw another line at 2 3/4" from the tip. You can either cut the surface out with a bandsaw or with a razor knife. I prefer the band saw with a 1/2" wide fine metal blade. If you are using a bandsaw it is important to think about which side of the wing you mark because the wing will only go through the bandsaw one way with out hitting.
Securly tape the wing in the foam shuck that it was cut out of. This will insure that the wing is sitting flat and will lay flat on the saw table. Cut out the ail. Once you have it cut out measure the thickes part of the wing down at the root where you cut out the 1" section. This will he the heigth that you will need to cut your balsa for the hinge line. Cut 2 pieces long enough to go the full length of the ail and tip. Tape the 2 peices together making sure that they are flush on the sides. Next mark the center line on one side of the 2 peices.
Now you can figure out where you want the hinges to go. I start around 1 to 1 1/2" from the root end of the ail. and go every 6" out to the tip. Drill the holes for the hinges in a drill press through both pieces at the same time. Now you can seperate the 2 pieces and set up to bevel them. Set your band saw at 28 to 30 degrees. Set up the rip fence so that when the 1/2" balsa stock is up aginst it the band saw blade is passing just below the center of the hinge line. You will have to play with the angle of the table and the placement of the rip fence to get it just right.
I know this sounds complicated but it is really easy. I will have pictures of how to do this later.
Bevel both sides of the ail stock and the wing stock. Now you are ready to glue the beveled peices to the ail and the wing. I use gorilla glue for this. Spray a little water on the back side of the beveled stock. Spread a light layer of gorilla glue on the wing. I forgot to mention that you need to glue a peice of 3/32" balsa to the inboard part of the ail to cap the foam and do the same to the wing where you cut the ail out.
Center up the wing section of the beveled balsa and use masking tape to keep it in place. It should be about flush with the top and bottom of the wing at the root and extend above and below the wing at the tip. Use plenty of tape to secure it to the wing while the glue sets up. The procedure for the Ail is the same. The only thing that is diferent is that you need to make sure that you line up the hinge holes and marke where the ail will mount to the beveled stock before you start to glue it.
Once the glue has set up (about 2 hours) just sand off the excess balsa that is above and below the wing and ail. Sand it to the conture of the wing.
The other way you can do it is to glue the balsa to the ail and the wing before you bevel it. Sand the parts to the shape of the wing and ail. Mark the center line and lay out where your hinges will go. Drill the holes for the hinges. Using a finger plane, razor knife and a sanding block bevel the hinge line by had. Go from the center line and bevel it to within 1/8" of where the sheeting meets the balsa stock for the hinge line.
Like I said I will post all these steps and pictures once I get finished with my dads plane. The reason that I am not using his for pictures is that his is the very first one that I had cut and does not look exactly like the planes that we are sending out.
I hope this was not too confusing.
Brent
< Message edited by Brent G -- 10/26/2007 5:01:12 AM >
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Just thought I would put in a few pictures of the Yak that I am building for my dad. It is almost ready to cover. I hope to have it covered next week.
I will be getting back to the main build instruction when I get this one finished. My dad will be out for Thanksgiving, I will be giving him his Christmas Yak then!
Brent
< Message edited by Brent G -- 11/4/2007 8:48:45 PM >
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
It is amazing how much you can get done in 11 days. I just finished the yak that I am giving to my dad. Here are some pictures of the finished product. I am very happy with how it turned out. This is the best plane I have built to date.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Well I am finally back to work on the build sequence. We have sent out our first plane! I will try to keep working on the plane consistently until it is to the ready to cover stage. I am also starting work on designing a 35% extra 260 that I hope to be competing with next year.
Back to the build.
Once you have the formers glued in on the top and the sides back to where the fuse tapers you are ready to glue in the remaining formers and finish gluing down the fuse top. Put a bead of glue around the sides and the top of the remaining two formers and set them into the fuse. Run a bead of glue down the side of the fuse top making sure that you get glue into the notches. Clamp and tape the fuse top down. Make sure that you have no gaps or voids along the seam.
< Message edited by Brent G -- 12/8/2007 11:39:34 PM >
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Once the glue is dry sand the fuse top smooth. The tabs in the fuse sides stick above the fuse top and bottom just a little. These need to be sanded flush before moving on to the bottom section.
Remove the bottom fuse pieces. Make sure that no glue ran down and will interfer with gluing the fuse bottom on. Run a bead of glue along the fuse sides and on the formers making sure to get into the notches. Install the fuse bottom and clamp and weigh it down. As you can see I use a lot of clamps. Once the glue is dry sand smooth like you did on the top.
Glue in the 1/4" thick landing gear plate and the T shaped peice that goes in the end of the fuse.
< Message edited by Brent G -- 12/8/2007 11:48:24 PM >
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
The formers for the bottom of the fuselage are next. They are spaced out along the bottom of the fuse. One for each former. The one with out any lightning holes goes directly behind the landing gear plate. There are 2 laser engraved lines for the former that goes between the one at the gear plate and the first fuse former. The last former has a tab in it that goes in the slot at the rear of the fuse. All the formers get centered over the former and should be flush with the sides of the fuse.
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RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 
RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 
