Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
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The 1x1 alum angle is just right for the gear. I don't use any angle on the fire wall. I do add a 1/4' square spruce stick all the way around the front of the fire wall. That is why the fuse sides stick out 1/4" past the fire wall. The hard wood stick glued to the perimeter is more than enough to secure the firewall.
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
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I've got the top glued on, holding the tail with clamps, tape, bungee cord, weights... I might pick up a few more clamps before I glue the bottom on. That's a lot of area to hold all at once. Here are some pics.
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Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
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Well I decided to go ahead and glue the bottom on last night. You can just use weights on the front fuse section and I used a lot of clamps, tape and weight to hold the tail section. I wish I had taken a picture but I forgot. The only thing I've done wrong so far is the joining of the bottom of the fuse, it aligned better with the front section print side in and the rear section print side out. This was a little confusing when I started putting the formers on for the stringers, but all it took was a look to the other side to confirm correct position.
I glued the stringers together this morning so after work I can start running the bottom stringers.
It's is building perfectly square all the way down the fuse, I think it helps that Carrol Jones gave me the door. It's nice and flat.
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Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
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Scott
Looks good. The fuse does build very easy. It is almost imposible to build it crooked. The way every thing locks together takes any chance of twist out of the equation. I glue the stringers together as I go. That way you don't waste any. I start by glueing 2 together and glue it in place. Cut off the excess length and add that peice to the next stringer. Try to keep the splices as closs to a former as possible. It is not that important but it does make the splice stronger.
A door makes a great building surface. I use a solid core door blank from home depot that cost me about $26 for a building board.
My balsa for sheeting just got in. I will be starting sheeting all my parts and then I will go through the process of glueing on the end caps and setting the incidence. Then it will be on to cutting the hinge lines. Don't get scared it is pretty easy. When you are done with this you will love foam wings and will never want annother built up wing.
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
Looks like I've made my first significant mistake (that I know of anyway)
I need some ideas. When the formers/supports for the turtle deck were glued I guess I bumped the T2 (first vertical one) it's leaning forward a little which has created a low spot which I would imagine will create a sheeting problem.
Idea 1. I didn't use much titebond maybe I can pop the stringers loose and straighten the former/support.
Idea 2. Sheet a small area about 4x6 with 3/32 then get a long flat block and sand it level, If the extra grams bother me I can cut out the openings and just leave the "shims"
Any ideas welcome.
Scott
*UPDATE* The stringers popped loose with my bare hands, it took enough pressure I was starting to worry about breaking something else but all of them popped loose and I will straighten the former/support tonight. Looks like an easy fix. None of the stringers came loose anywhere except the one former I pulled from, this tells me there is enough glue, I was putting a lot of pressure on the nearest formers and none of the stringers came loose except where I wanted them too.
< Message edited by Stick Bender -- 12/22/2007 12:27:31 AM >
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Joined: 10/30/2004 From: Streator,
IL, USA Status: offline
I really like this kit you have here. A have a few questions. What size is the wing tube and do you have one available for purchas? Does it come with the sleeve for the wing panels? Same question for the stab tube. Does the fuse have room for a can or possibly a tuned pipe tunnel if one was wanting to add one?
EDIT: You might want to post this in the kit building forum also. That way more "builders" might get wind of your kit. As you know there is a shortage of fun kits to build.
< Message edited by mrbigg -- 12/22/2007 2:33:14 PM >
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Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
The wing tube is 1" carbon fiber and the stab tube is 1/2" carbon fiber. They are both available through Troy built models. The sleeves that you are talking about I am asuming that you mean the sockets. The wing panels come with the sockets installed in the wings. The wings have a plywood captivation rib installed as well 1" from the end of the socket. There are 2 options on how to get the kit. With the wings vaccume bagged and sheeted ready to glue on the leading and trailing edges or with the foam parts just cut. The second option you will have to do the sheeting yourself.
There is no room for cans or a tuned pipe in this plane. I did this to keep the weight down. You could modify the fuse to make room for a tunnel. That would take a lot of work. The front of the fuse is 9 1/2" in diameter. That does not leave a lot of room for a can or pipe.
You are right that I need to put this in the kit building forum. Is there a way to post it in both places or do I just need to put in a link?
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Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
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Well I made a little progress on the sheeting. I have the rudder and the elevators in the vacume bag. I also have my sheeting glued together for the wings. I will try to get the leading and trailing edges on tomorrow and show how to set up the stab incidence and start cutting hinge lines.
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Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
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Stab and rudder are out of the bag. You need to now cut your stock for the leading edge and trailing edge.
(On my plane I use 1/16" sheeting the kits that go out with 3/32" sheeting may need to cut the stock a little taller. Measure the Thickest part of the leading and trialing edge and cut you stock to that measurement.)
Both the stabs and the rudder use a peice of 1/2x1/2 for the trailing edge and a peice of 1/2x3/8 for the leading edge. I set up my bandsaw to rip the material out of the provided sheets. I use gorilla glue to attach the leadin and trailing edges. On the leading edge the 1/2" measurement is up and down and the 3/8 measurement is front and back. Spray a little water on the stock that has been cut to the correct thickness and length. Use plenty of tape to hold the LE and TE in place while the glue foams up and cures.
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Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
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Scott
I was just looking at you picture in post 56. It looks like you have not yet put in the landing gear plate. You may have a problem getting it in now that you have the front bottom fuse former in. It locks into the front cowl former. It may me necessary to cut off a little from the back of the landing gear plate. This will let you stick the tab into the slot in the cowl former and rotate it down into position. Then you can just glue the peice that you cut off back in. The other option would be to cut the tab off and glue the plate in. I would then drill through the tab into the gear plate and pin it with some bamboo skewers.
Brent
< Message edited by Brent G -- 12/22/2007 10:39:00 PM >
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
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Yeah, I figured that out too
I'm not being real picky about where everything lines up. This is my first plane so I'm using it to learn and so far it's built to my satisfaction (especially for a first effort) but anyway the first bottom former is a tad back, maybe leans back a little. It was a tight fit but I just beveled the rear edge ever so slightly and crammed it in there. Went in easily enough that it didn't pop anything else loose. I glued it in this morning. I also figured out what these little mysterious 1/2 circles with 1/4 hole in the middle were for when I did my front dowels for the hatch (at least I hope that's what they are for) I don't follow instructions well, if you covered it, I missed it. Which is certainly possible because I just skim over what you do to get the general idea and away I go.
I've got the hatch stringers on and the front dowel pins in. Glued the hatch retainers in, I hope it's not too early. I clamped them outward to the side of the fuse and down. I wanted to make sure they lay flush on the inside of the fuse so they won't be pulled loose when I tighten the screws. I got 6-32 screws and blind nuts. They didn't have 4-40 at home depot which is what my H9 Extra uses. I have not set the nuts or drilled yet. What size screws do you use and/or recommend?
Do I have to wait until everything is sheeted and sanded and fitted to complete my hatch?
Oh and what kind of incidence meter do you recommend?
and no the sockets are not glued yet. I just slid them in to make sure my wing tubes were as square as the fuse. Everything is nice and true. If I get all my incidences set right this should be the best flying plane I've ever had.
< Message edited by Stick Bender -- 12/23/2007 2:14:47 AM >
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RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 
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