40% S&D yak Seller:5811 Details:
$650.00
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Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
Yeah, I was at work and in a hurry. Not sure what I was thinking. But it's a small table top 10" band saw. I thought I would have to buy a fence but some clamps and my 1x1 aluminum angle make a pretty good fence. I've already ripped a couple of strips and it's going to work great.
Once I get to hinging, I will have to set up an angle jig/fence like you did. Or something similar.
Do I need a drill press for the hinge holes? If I do, I can use one or buy a cheapo. Heck this band saw cost me $25. I was going to blow $100 on a cheap one, but what I got will work great for light woods like balsa.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
A drill press works best. The important thing is getting everything drilled straight. You can use the robarts drill jig to help keep every thing straight. Not the best way but it will work. The main reason I use the drill press is that I am drilling both sides of the hine line at once. If you get just a little bit off on the drill angle you will miss the center line.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Yes, the stab is rotated down at the leading edge 1 degree. This is the same as up elevator trim. Everyone of the planes have taken up trim. I have designed it into the airframe now. So far every plane with it has only needed 1 or 2 clicks of up elevator trim.
I have started to design my 35% extra 260. I have a little done on the drawing. I picked up a cowl from a freind for a Extra. That got me started. I am using the same airfoil that I used on the yak. I am also keeping close to the same location for the wing and stab placement. The main change is that the wing and the stab will be on the thrust line. I am shooting for 24-26 lbs. I think this will be very possible. The plane will have a tunnel for canasters. Wingspan 105" around 2100 sq". Length form spinner to tail 94"
Here is a picture of my drawings so far.
Brent
< Message edited by Brent G -- 12/30/2007 3:09:16 PM >
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
I didn't want anyone to think I gave up
Ends still need capped/sheeted also inside edge of counterbalance, this one is sanded down on all leading and trailing edges. The left side still needs some more work before it's ready for end caps/sheeting. Just mocked up to check alignment, no hinge glue yet.
This will be the plane I want to get serious about learning 3D, It looks like enough throw to me.
What should I shoot for on clearance between the stab and the counter balance? I'm thinking about 1/8-3/16 and should I hinge after I cover them? Do you seal your hinge gaps? Mine will be pretty tight, I don't really thing I will need to seal them.
And one last thing for now. Do you use anything for anti-rotation on the rear stab to it's plate? or is the epoxy enough?
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Scott
That looks great. The gap at the counter balance I should be 1/8" to 3/32". Your hinge line looks very nice. Did you do it with the bandsaw? Hinge every thing after you cover the plane. I use urithane for glueing in the hinges. Here are some pictures of how I apply the tape to the hinge line. You will have to imagine that it has been covered. After you cut open the holes for the hinges using a solidering iron I use 2 peices of tape for each side of the hinge line top and bottom. I then cut out the tape for the hinge. This will keep the urithane from expanding onto the covering. Don't wipe off the urithane while it foams up. Just tape everything together to keep it form movine. Once the glue has expanded out the hinge hole a little flex the surface full diflection to make sure every thing moves free. The glue will get squished onto the tape. Let it cure and just pull off the tape and the excess glue will come off with it. Trying to wipe off the glue while it foams can result in some getting smeared onto the covering. Over time the urithane will turn yellow and look lousy. I have not found anything that can clean all of it off once it gets smeared over the covering. I also lube the hinges with a little 3 and 1 oil. KY jelly also works well and cleans easier because it is a water based lubricant.
It has been rainy and cold so I have not done much on the plane out in the garage. I just installed the dowls in the elevator root. I do pin them. I use 2 1/4" dowls. I bury them about 3/4" deep. Just short of the first hinge at the root. Here are some pictures. Also I have included a couple of pictures of the gap at the counter ballance.
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
Yes, I used the band saw. 15 tooth per inch blade, 1x1 for fence, tilted table to 30 degrees.
When you use the urethane glue do you mix it with a little water and put it in the holes, or dampen the holes glue on the hinge?
Mine are not as pretty as yours, but my next one should be dramatically better. I'm learning a lot. I've never done much wood working. One semester of wood shop in middle school is about it.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
I spray a little water in the hole is all. Then spread a little glue in the hole. Apply a little glue to the hinge and slide it together. I do all the hinges in the stab side first. Then Put the glue in the control surface. Put a little glue on the hinge and slide it together.
Posts: 3015
Joined: 10/30/2004 From: Streator,
IL, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Stick Bender
Mine are not as pretty as yours, but my next one should be dramatically better. I'm learning a lot. I've never done much wood working. One semester of wood shop in middle school is about it.
Hang in there. Your skills will improve with each plane.
_____________________________
PROVERBS 15:22 - Plans go wrong for lack of advice; many counselors bring success.
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
Well this stab is almost ready to cover, still need to sheet/cap the side clearanced for the rudder. But I'm happy with my counterbalance gap (3/32 balsa fits snug) It's sanded pretty well too, just a little more with some fine.
I'm going to try to finish this one and then the left one tomorrow. I still need to pin them also.
After that what's next? Wing incidence? and while I'm asking what should the wing incidence be?
Thanks Brent, your making this easier than I thought it would be.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Scott
You are doing very good on your first build. I am happy to hear that I am making it easy for you. The plane build pretty easy, I am showing the way that I do things. I have learned a few tricks that make things go a little easier with better results. Keep it up!
You can either set up the rudder or do the wings. I will be working on those next. The vertical fin is set on 1/2 degree or right rudder. On the laser cut fuse top there is a 1/2 degree line ingraved into it. You center up the fin at the back of the fuse and move the front of the fin 1/2 degree to the left centering it up on the mark. I use a digitalincidence meter or a good angle finder placed on each side of the fin to make sure that it is straight.
The incidence on the wings are set at zero. There are some doublers that get glued on the inside of the root cap. 2 of them have 1/4" holes for the antirotation dowls and the other is a 3/16" hole that get's taped for a 1/4 x 20 course thread bolt. I need to glue on my leading and trailing edges before I show how to set the wings up.
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
Awesome you read my mind and answered my next question. I got a little agressive sanding and couldn't tell what it said for rudder and I was thinking it said 1/4 right but luckily you already answered 1/2 deg. I was also wondering what I would need to root cap the wings, you got that one too.
On the wing incidence I checked it myself and knew it was 0 degrees before your told me. The angle is built into the fuse just like the stab (which lined right up at neg 1 deg)
I've got both stabs pretty much almost ready to cover, oh that brings to mind another question. Hard points and servo trays? I'm anxious to start covering because I'm not great at that either, but I assume I need servo pockets and hard points before I'm ready to cover them. I had what white I have out already, thinking "looks like enough" really wanted to cover them, If I can lay it on well it should look great and cover my goofy capping I did to got everything the right size. I was a little sloppy cutting and had to adjust but amazingly one stab over the other there are damn close to the same.
I did the block for behind the turltedeck and was trimming it for the stab but I need to set the stab to final fit it.
I'm excited, it's going together pretty quickly. But I do work on it quite a bit
Scott
I may abondon my my color scheme, I can't help but think if it's not done right it would look terrible. I'm checking into the stripe kit you use, maybe change up the colors. Seems like white shows imperfections less too, which may be a big benefit.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Looking Good. It the parts included in the kit are some 1/4" light ply servo mounts. These get burried in the stab fairly close to the root. Also there are some small square peices that the control horns go into. Here are some pictures of the parts. The horns shown are a little diferent than the ones that I am having cut for the plane. I should have the first sets of horns in the next few days and will be sending them out to you. The elevator servo placement is pretty crucial. It needs to be close to the root of the stab. If you go too far out the stab is not thick enough to fit the servo. The back of the servo mount goes directly infront of the hinge line stock. I use 1 1/2" arms on my plane so the hard point for the control arm needs to be 3/4" off center from the servo out towards the end of the arm. It also gets buried in the foam directly behind the elevator hinge line stock. I will try to show where to mount every thing tomorrow.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Setting the wing incidence.
Place the root cap on the root of the wing and mark the 3 holes. Take the doublers and place them over the hole marks and draw around them. Remove the foam in the wing where the doublers will be recessed in. It should be a 1/4" deep or a little more. The root cap gets glued in with urithane this will fill any voids around the doublers. Glue the doublers to the root cap. There are 2 that are drilled for a 1/4" hard wood dowl and one that is drilled 3/16" for the attachment bolt. I use a dowl to line up the anti-rotation doublers and a 3/16" drill bit for the other. I am waiting for the glue to cure on my leading and trailing edge so I won't have the rest of the instructions until tomorrow.
I use a hole saw to cut lightning holes in my elevator, rudder and ailerons. It is pretty easy to do with a drill press and will remove about
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RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 
