Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
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Here are pictures of the finished wing tip. Cut out the ailerons just like you did for the elevator and rudder. Use the same beveling technique. I just set the incidence for the second wing. My foam cheeks are ready to sheet. Here are some pictures of my progress.
Cut 2 peices of 1 to 1 1/2" aluminum angle to 2" lengths. Clamp them down inside the fuse to the Gear brace plate and the bottom of the fuse. Drill 2 holes through the side of the fuse. I use 10-32 x 3/4" socket head bolts to hold the angle in place. Drill the holes 3/8" from each side of the angle centered horizontly in the angle. Once you have drilled the holes for the bolts drill the holes through the fuse side over sized for blind nuts. Use a little glue to help hold the blind nuts. Install the bolts with lock tight then trim them to length if you want.
Drill a small hole in the fuse side a little above the switch mount. The will have to be drilled off center of each switch. You will have to measure your switch location to determine how far above the plate and how much to each side. The supplied switch mount is cut and drilled for MPI switches with charging jack.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
Cheeks
Start by cutting out the wing saddle from the cheeks. Sand the sheeting smooth to the inside of the saddle. Test fit the cheek in the fuse side. It may be necessary to sand down the foam on the back side to get it to fit in the fuse side with only about 1/16 to 1/32 inch of the sheeting protruding beyond the top and bottom of the fuse. Mark the where the lightning holes in the fuse meet the cheeks. Sand down the area at the front of the cheek where the blind nuts meet the cheek.
To make the wing fit into the saddle I trim off the leading edge square to the root cap. Tape the cheek in place and slide the wing into the saddle. It will be necessary to fit the saddle a little bit. For planes with 3/32 sheeting on the wings you can sand the sheeting at the root to help make it fit. Once you have the saddle fitting good it is time to glue the cheek in place. Use either tight bond or urithane to glue the cheeks in. I prefer tight bond for this. Spread the glue on the inside of the cheek. I use the marks for the lightning holes for a guide. Don't spread glue over the whole cheek. It will just add weight. I only apply the glue to where it meets the fuse. Slide the cheek in place and install the wing to make sure the alignment is right. Tape the cheek in place.
Lay the fuse on it's side and place the shuck that the cheek came in on top of the cheek. Use clamps and weight to hold the cheek in place until the glue dries.
repeat for the other side.
< Message edited by Brent G -- 1/13/2008 7:34:06 PM >
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
I thought about it and decided you were right, the hatch was going to bother me. So I reworked it. I figured the canopy probably glues on, which would leave me looking at something I could have fixed before the canopy went on.
I went a little overboard, I hope I didn't add too much weight. The lower decking is just 1/32 balsa sheet and the piece on the rear hatch former is 1/16 contest grade. I'm trying to make a dash panel, this one is my first try and doesn't quite fit right. Making another one to try again tomorrow.
I've got the wing root caps on, leading and trailing edges on (need to work them down to shape) then I can cap them and start on the ailerons.
The cheeks are fitted pretty good but no wing holes yet, landing gear holes in the wood. Need to finish my brackets and I will clamp them and drill them in the plane.
My goal is to have the airframe ready by next month, so far that looks easy enough to do.
Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: York,
SC, USA Status: offline
First time building? Pretty impressive if you ask me. Controll arms are in the mail. You should have them very soon. Have you gotten your landing gear and wing tubes?
I can't remember if I showed glueing in the tail wheel doubler? It is a triangluar shaped peice that gets glued into the fuse at the back for the blind nuts to go into. I will get pictures of it pretty soon. The weather has turned cold so buiilding has been a little slow. I have one cheek installed and have filled the rear section with laminanting epoxy and micro-balloons. This is the area from where the cheek ends to where the fuse starts to taper towards the tail. The reason I did it this way is if you fill it with balsa you end up trying to blend the balsa to nothing and the glue seam is hard to hide. I found it easier to just use a filler for the last few inches.
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: cam-flyer
Stick Bender,
What did you use to coat the canopy base? It looks good!
Greg
It's grey auto trunk spatter paint, when I tested with it it took quite a bit to cover the wood, so I put a light coat of grey primer on first, then a light coat of the spatter paint. The primer probably isn't necessary but it seemed like I could use less of the spatter paint once the wood was already colored. (so far no compatability issues with the primer, but only time will tell.) I just covered the sheeting with newspaper and taped off where I'm going to cover and/or paint the wood.
I'm happy with it, it looks pretty good.
I have a cross brace in the rear that I didn't need, I was trying to go by memory of a picture Brent sent me. I should have taken another look
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
Tonight I am very happy with your work on the wings, I kinda fudged checking the incidence. I just checked to make sure it was pretty close when the root caps were straight. Then I just glued the root caps on with the wings off the plane just making sure the root cap was as straight as possible. Tonight I mocked it all up and checked the incidence and I'm within 0.1-0.2 degrees on both wings measured in 2 places on each wing.
I'm really happy!, it got me fired up to see it together. Some ailerons,a couple servo pockets,hard points/horns,motor box,pull pull tray,cheeks...
Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005 From: Rogers,
AR, USA Status: offline
Well the ailerons proved to be quite a bit of work. I don't work on it constantly, but all my build time yesterday was spent on the wings. And I still need to sand to fit in the cheeks, the leading edge is still square and the hinge lines need a little more work before I'll be happy with the fit. But we have ailerons, so that's one less thing to do...
So Basically some finish sanding, servo pockets, and hard points for the horns and the wings will be ARC.
I was so worried about cutting the lines straight, this is what I did. I took a 1/2"x1/2"x1/16" aluminum angle, I cut 4 wood blocks from 1/2"x1/2" balsa, one each 1",3/4",1/2",1/4" I put the one inch at the tip of the aileron taped it to the aluminum angle,no spacer at the root, the 1/2" in the middle, and the 1/4 and 3/4 between the middle and the ends. I taped the whole thing to the trailing edge of the wing, set the fence to about 5 1/16" from the blade, Viola one nice straight cut that is 5" in at one end and 4" in on the other, then I just set the fence 1" away and ripped the hinge line scrap from the aileron. The hinge lines were bowed a little (tight in the middle) but a little fit sanding and the lines will be great.
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RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 
