RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54  
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RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/6/2008 2:04:14 AM   
Stick Bender



Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005
From: Rogers, AR, USA
Status: offline 		Well my pace has slowed quite a bit from my jack rabbit start. I'm going to try to do at least one thing every chance I get.

Tonight I made some holes for the aileron servo leads. I could not find any brass 1/2" tubing but they had aluminum. I put teeth on the end but decided I didn't want to hack the foam all up. The heating with a torch worked great, it melted right through leaving the foam sealed so it's a nice little smooth tube to run the leads through. The first one I hit perfect, or at least I got through the hole in the captivation rib, the second one I hit the edge of the hole but was close enough I just had to wiggle it a little to get it through the hole.

Time to start sanding and get it ready to cover...

I was wondering on the control horns, it looks like you glued the hard points and then the horns later? It seems like it would be easier to glue it all at once. I can see covering being a pain with the horns in the way. Maybe I should wait and put hard points and horns in after I cover it?

(in reply to Brent G)
       Post #: 126

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/6/2008 11:02:49 AM   
Brent G



Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004
From: York, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Scott

Glue in all the hard points before you cover the plane. It is much easier. If you glue it in before you cover it is much easier to sand everything smooth. Once you have covered the plane use the thin g10 squares as a guide to remove the covering over the hard point. I heat up a thin screw driver with a lighter and melt the foam in the holes for the horns. I then fill the slots with epoxy pressing it down into the slot with a toothpick and the horn.

Once again, Glue in the hard points before you cover and the horns after the plane is covered!!!!!!!

Brent

(in reply to Stick Bender)
       Post #: 127

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/8/2008 11:59:00 PM   
Brent G



Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004
From: York, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Here is a picture of the wings with the lightning holes. The other picture is the cowl mounts glued in place.
I am almost ready to cover. I just need to add the oak strips to the trailing edge of the surfaces. I will post pictures of this soon. My covering should be here any day.

Brent


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(in reply to Brent G)
       Post #: 128

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/9/2008 11:30:01 PM   
Brent G



Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004
From: York, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Well I am ready to start covering. I just finished up adding the red oak laminant to the trailing edges of the control surfaces. This is a little touch that I put on all my planes. It can be found at home depot or lowes. It is a iron on laminate strip. It is very thin but adds a hard surface to protect from hangar rash. I trim it a little wider than needed with a band saw but it can easly be cut with a hobby knife. Simply line up one side flush with the control surface and iron it on like you would covering. Do it a few inches at a time. once it is hot take the handle of the iron and press it aginst the surface. The iron melts the contact cement and once it cools just a little the presure will permenantly attach it. When you start applying it there is a tendency for it to slide until you get a couple of inches attached. Once it is on trim off the excess with a hobby knife. Trim it as close as you can. If you leave it long the contact cement will ball up and plug your sand paper when you sand it flush with the surface.

I also installed the paper tube for the elevator wires and the nylon tube for the radio antana. To start my covering process after every thing is finished sanded I spray the whole plane with cheep hair spray. This seals the balsa and helps the covering to adhear. When the hair spray is dry sand the plane one more time with 400 grit paper. Before I start covering I blow each part off. Then right bevore I cover it I use a tack rag to remove any dust that may have fallen out of the air. I cover all the hinge lines and counter balances first as well as any place that is hard to get into like the landing gear. I will start that tomorrow and put up some pictures.

Scott I hope that you are not far behind. Can't wait to see a video of you plane in the air.

Brent



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(in reply to Brent G)
       Post #: 129

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/10/2008 5:45:11 PM   
Stick Bender



Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005
From: Rogers, AR, USA
Status: offline 		I'm not too far behind. I have a tube for my elevator wires, no tube for an antenna because I'm using Futaba FASST 2.4mhz. I have the hatch covered and I'm gluing the canopy on now. I built the horn parts for the rudder, I tried to take a picture of the mock assembly but it would not focus for me. The motor box still needs finished. My rudder is swiss cheese but I have not put holes in anything else yet.

After I get the hard points in the ailerons and elevators, lightening holes in the elevators and ailerons I will start final sanding for covering. I have some cheap hairspray, how much do you use? Do you use Gorrilla glue or epoxy on the cowl mounts?

My biggest problem now is not having the money for all the other stuff I need. I'm probably going to have to strip it all out of my Extra 260.

I made my rough cut holes in my elevators, I'm going to take a break now. Been working on the plane all morning.



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< Message edited by Stick Bender -- 2/10/2008 6:36:33 PM >

(in reply to Brent G)
       Post #: 130

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/10/2008 9:15:12 PM   
Brent G



Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004
From: York, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Use epoxy on the cowl mounts. Use enough hair spray to seal the balsa. It should look fairly wet and when dry feel rough. You won't add much weight most of the hair spray weight evaporates. Once it is dry sand it smooth with 400 grit paper. If you are concerned about air bubbles you might want to use a wood pecker before you spray the hair spray. After you go over every thing with the woodpecker the plane needs to be sanded to remove the bumps that it pushes up. Then do the hair spray and final sand.

Brent

(in reply to Stick Bender)
       Post #: 131

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/10/2008 10:28:28 PM   
mrbigg



Posts: 3015
Joined: 10/30/2004
From: Streator, IL, USA
Status: offline 		How much weight do you think was saved with all of the lightening holes?

_____________________________

PROVERBS 15:22 - Plans go wrong for lack of advice; many counselors bring success.

(in reply to Brent G)
       Post #: 132

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/10/2008 10:54:41 PM   
Brent G



Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004
From: York, SC, USA
Status: offline 		I weighed the foam removed on mine. It took out 3 oz. mainly off the tail. The main reason to do it is so you can mount the receiver batteries in front of the tank where they are easier to get to. Any place you can save a little weight is always worth it. It all adds up.

Brent

(in reply to mrbigg)
       Post #: 133

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/10/2008 11:02:14 PM   
Stick Bender



Posts: 134
Joined: 6/18/2005
From: Rogers, AR, USA
Status: offline 		I would have to guess I will lose about the same. Maybe just a little more because I have 3/32 sheeting. I weighed the pieces from the rudder and elevators. 1.7 ounces. It's not much but I'm building as light as I can. I want a floater.

Brent how do you attach the rudder arm to the servo? I have the arms and the spacer, I was going to build it up but I don't know if I attach it to an arm or a disk or...?



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(in reply to Brent G)
       Post #: 134

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/10/2008 11:46:51 PM   
Brent G



Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004
From: York, SC, USA
Status: offline 		I epoxy the spacer between the 2 arms. Then I drill 4 holes throught the arms and into a disc. Epoxy the arms to the disc and before the glue sets run the screws in. One thing that you have to look at in lightning up the rudder and elevator. The 1.7 oz. that you take off the tail will be around be like taking about 8 oz. off the nose. A plane this size the ratio of weight off the tail compared to the nose is between 4-5:1. Even with the 3/32 sheeting this plane will be a floater.

Brent

(in reply to Stick Bender)
       Post #: 135

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/11/2008 3:11:54 PM   
mrbigg



Posts: 3015
Joined: 10/30/2004
From: Streator, IL, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Brent G

I weighed the foam removed on mine. It took out 3 oz. mainly off the tail. The main reason to do it is so you can mount the receiver batteries in front of the tank where they are easier to get to. Any place you can save a little weight is always worth it. It all adds up.

Brent


I hear you on every little bit adding up. That weight you took out is the weight of a servo.

_____________________________

PROVERBS 15:22 - Plans go wrong for lack of advice; many counselors bring success.

(in reply to Brent G)
       Post #: 136

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/11/2008 8:30:52 PM   
Brent G



Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004
From: York, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Mrbigg

Is that your company at the bottom of your post?

dbalsa.com

Brent


(in reply to mrbigg)
       Post #: 137

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/11/2008 9:07:46 PM   
mrbigg



Posts: 3015
Joined: 10/30/2004
From: Streator, IL, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Brent G

Mrbigg

Is that your company at the bottom of your post?

dbalsa.com

Brent



No, just a local guy that belongs to a nieghboring club.

_____________________________

PROVERBS 15:22 - Plans go wrong for lack of advice; many counselors bring success.

(in reply to Brent G)
       Post #: 138

RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54 - 2/13/2008 2:37:23 AM   
Brent G



Posts: 433
Joined: 3/31/2004
From: York, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Time to start covering. I almost forgot to install the blind nuts into the fuse for the stab before I started covering. Be sure that you do that, it is a real pain if you wait until after the fuse is covered.

I cover the bottom first, then the sides and the turtle deck and the fin last. I overlap my seams 1/4". I am still thinking on how I will stripe the plane. The basic colors will be white, yellow and silver.

Brent


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(in reply to mrbigg)
       Post #: 139