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Ok dumb question. What is the milled fiberglass that is called out in the manual? They say to use it for gluing in the rudder phenolic horns. Is that micro balloons?
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Joined: 10/10/2005 From: north easton,
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I do not think micro balloons and milled fiberglass are the same. One is filler (micro balloons no strength) Milled fiberglass actually adds strength through the fibers.
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Joined: 8/11/2003 From: Milwaukee,
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Where do I get milled fiberglass? I know it's to add strength to the rudder horns since the rudder is so huge.
BTW, the quality of this ARF is really up there. So far all the things are going together like a perfectly made puzzle. The covering job is spectacular. I'm going over it looking for loose covering and can't find much if any.
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I called my buddy to ask him if he had any of the stuff and he had a great idea: Just take some fiber cloth and cut it up. So I tried it. I took some cloth and bundled it up into a tight little roll and started shaving some off the corner with a scissors. After a few minutes I had a pile of very fine fiber shavings. That's good enough for me.
< Message edited by JoeAirPort -- 1/7/2008 3:28:08 AM >
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Ok let's keep this thread going. My little fiber cloth idea worked ok but I could have mixed a little more epoxy into it. The stuff makes it pretty thick. So the second one I first applied some epoxy without fiber cloth shavings, then applied the fiber cloth mixed up stuff. That worked better IMO. Anywho it's going to hold no doubt. It's strong as hell.
My "pile of horns" are all done as you can see from the picture of my messy bench. Time to go onto the hinging. I'm sure that will go fast. I sand the hinge points, then oil the hinges carefully with a toothpick and vegetable oil. I'll be using the Zpoxy as recommended in the manual. I usually use Pacer hinge glue but figured I'd do the Zpoxy. It's a little harder to clean up but very strong (and I don't have to buy separate hinge glue).
Ignore that second rudder in the background. It's from my recently crashed Ultra RC Yak....sniff sniff...RIP
< Message edited by JoeAirPort -- 1/8/2008 3:23:35 AM >
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This is jumping ahead a little but I have an issue with the engine I plan on using. The ZDZ 50 NG does not really work out so well (on any plane) due to its rear induction carb ending up RIGHT in the middle and near the top of the firewall with the engine at 6.25 inches. It's a great running engine but this is one bad feature of it.
What I did on my BME Edge and Ultra RC Yak was to stand the engine off another 1/2-3/4" and it worked out fine. The cowlings were long enough to reach but the Ultra RC was very close to not reaching. I'll have to wait till I get my cowling and see if it will reach the extra 1/2-3/4". I'm sure the plane will fly ok. Usually it helps to move the CG forward.
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Joined: 6/11/2002 From: Omaha, NE, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: JoeAirPort
This is jumping ahead a little but I have an issue with the engine I plan on using. The ZDZ 50 NG does not really work out so well (on any plane) due to its rear induction carb ending up RIGHT in the middle and near the top of the firewall with the engine at 6.25 inches. It's a great running engine but this is one bad feature of it.
What I did on my BME Edge and Ultra RC Yak was to stand the engine off another 1/2-3/4" and it worked out fine. The cowlings were long enough to reach but the Ultra RC was very close to not reaching. I'll have to wait till I get my cowling and see if it will reach the extra 1/2-3/4". I'm sure the plane will fly ok. Usually it helps to move the CG forward.
If it doesn't work out I'll just get a B60.
I had some similar issues with a DA50 and a Velox II. I ended up drilling a hole in the firewall large enough for the carb to stick thru. Worked ok but was a pain.
I have since sold the DA50 and bought a B60. It sure is easier to mount. That will go in my red/white/blue/black Extra when it arrives. I'm on the waiting list and hope to get mine in a few weeks.