RE: Extreme Flight Extra 300, 50cc, 88.5inch Wingspan, Build !!!!!!!  
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RE: Extreme F... - 6/8/2008 11:28:25 PM   
zlin226


 

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From: Manchester, NH, USA
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Rennie, I can't believe you're having trouble with ES pipe. If the front of the pipe starts to deform, that means you're crushing it with clamp. There's an aluminum insert in the neck so it's not caused by the heat. Ed e-mailed me couple of pics. You should always use spring type clamps as pictured and pipe will last long time just like mine.
The second pic shows what'll happen if you use hose type clamp. Not a pipe's fault in my opinion


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< Message edited by zlin226 -- 6/9/2008 12:42:55 AM >

(in reply to Flyin Hawaiian)
       Post #: 1101

RE: Extreme F... - 6/9/2008 5:23:05 AM   
zoomer199


 

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Yes mine had the same problem. I flew it several times before I found the problem. It was not fun to fly that way. level flight yawed to right, up line always wanted to drop left wing and roll to the tip.
Hover was difficult to say the least. Knife edge coulpled to canopy alot do to the added elv trim needed to maitain level flight.
The fix was simple for mine.

Set up and clamp wing tube down to some raised blocking.

Now put in your stab tube, you will measure and see that one side is higher than the other. We need to get that rotated back to level.

Clamp the stab tube to some blocking all level them out keeping th wing tube clamped as well.
Iron out the the wrinkles. Un clamp and re measure. You may have to add a shimming under one side of stab tube and reclamp and iron out.

When straight and ironed out I ran CA down all the stringers in tail to help lock it all in. I did have to remove turtle deck bracing to reach back there, then replaced bracing.

Mine is flying perfect now.

(in reply to Sawacs)
       Post #: 1102

RE: Extreme F... - 6/9/2008 6:21:55 AM   
3DAP


 

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Sawacs could you post a pic of this problem?? Thankx. Is this the first batch or the second batch? Maybe Chris will send you a new one!

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RE: Extreme Fli... - 6/9/2008 11:17:26 AM   
wavy777


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: JONNEY ROTTON

Thanks for ya Help Guys,,,,Whats a good prop for the DL..DA on a pipe?

Mejzlik 23 x 8 50:1 synthetic, 7800 rpm on ES pipe.

(in reply to ca$hey)
       Post #: 1104

RE: Extreme F... - 6/9/2008 11:22:31 AM   
wavy777


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: 6Packo Beer

uugh im not sure what to do, that ES pipe will save a lot of weight so I would think I would see better performance overall with it rather than the KS pipe, but 6 m/o yikes thats short.

I have both ES and KS pipes, I think my ES is on its last legs, starting to get dis-colouration just before the baffle, this has had maybe 100 flights on a DL. Whereas my KS pipe is 3 times the weight but still looks new after 2 years hard work in my yak 88.

(in reply to 6Packo Beer)
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RE: Extreme F... - 6/9/2008 1:20:22 PM   
JoeAirPort



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From: Milwaukee, WI, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: zoomer199

Yes mine had the same problem. I flew it several times before I found the problem. It was not fun to fly that way. level flight yawed to right, up line always wanted to drop left wing and roll to the tip.
Hover was difficult to say the least. Knife edge coulpled to canopy alot do to the added elv trim needed to maitain level flight.
The fix was simple for mine.

Set up and clamp wing tube down to some raised blocking.

Now put in your stab tube, you will measure and see that one side is higher than the other. We need to get that rotated back to level.

Clamp the stab tube to some blocking all level them out keeping th wing tube clamped as well.
Iron out the the wrinkles. Un clamp and re measure. You may have to add a shimming under one side of stab tube and reclamp and iron out.

When straight and ironed out I ran CA down all the stringers in tail to help lock it all in. I did have to remove turtle deck bracing to reach back there, then replaced bracing.

Mine is flying perfect now.


I did this too. I just had my son hold the main tube, then I twisted the stab tube while ironing out the wrinkles. It does straighten out rather easily. I like the idea of the CA locking it in but I don't think it's necessary if it was the covering that twisted it in the first place. The ARF without covering was probably straight. It's when the covering went on that it got twisted. I wouldn't return the fuse. I'd straighten it, much easier. A third person would help. I used my knee to push the stab tube down on the high side while I ironed out wrinkles. Easier with three people.


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RE: Extreme F... - 6/9/2008 1:35:47 PM   
Sawacs



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From: Oklahoma, OK, USA
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Gentlemen,

The problem is a little more complicatd that simply twisting the stab tube to straighten the vertical fin/rudder. The Stab/Elevators are perfectly level in relation to the wing. Any twisting I place into the rear fuse will create another problem with the stabs etc. This is a loose loose situation any way you look at it.

I will try and take a picture of the issue some time this week.

This is one great looking plane but there is an aweful large amount of money invested to have to go twisting, bending and glueing..

Thanks, Sawacs

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"Face Piles of Trials with Smiles"
AMA 219178

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RE: Extreme ... - 6/9/2008 2:21:41 PM   
JoeAirPort



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Oh ok, it's your fin not the horizontal stab. Yes that is hard to correct. The solution I proposed is only if the it's the fuse that twisted. I assumed the fin and stab were square. If they are not, that may be hard to fix.

I tell you one thing, Chris will take care of you in a heart beat, will not give you any flak at all. He's worked with me on a couple of issues and it was effortless to work with him.

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RE: Extreme ... - 6/9/2008 3:10:58 PM   
6Packo Beer


 

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Dudes I put my ailerons on but for some reason left to much hinge gap. Should be okay if I seal the hinge line w/ ultracoat to prevent flutter right ? Maybe about 2mm of gap dont sound like much but it looks like much.

(in reply to JoeAirPort)
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RE: Extreme F... - 6/9/2008 4:27:07 PM   
Flyin Hawaiian


 

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From: Orlando, FL, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: zlin226



Rennie, I can't believe you're having trouble with ES pipe. If the front of the pipe starts to deform, that means you're crushing it with clamp. There's an aluminum insert in the neck so it's not caused by the heat. Ed e-mailed me couple of pics. You should always use spring type clamps as pictured and pipe will last long time just like mine.
The second pic shows what'll happen if you use hose type clamp. Not a pipe's fault in my opinion



zlin,

Well, that is your opinion, and I am just reporting what I have found in my own experiences. The ES pipe still deformed even with just the spring style clamps. I had two on my 110" EF Yak w/ ES pipes and spring clamps and it was deforming after the aluminum inserts. Ed said he re-engineered the 50cc pipes, but from what I have heard it is not much better, just $25 cheaper. With only 30-40 flights, almost 6 mos. old, the ES pipes on my 100cc was on its way to deforming on and after the alum. inserts. The alum. insert is just not backing the composite material enough. That is over $750 (3 pipes) that I literally have just melted away. Just not economical, even if you are just wanting the performance. KS aluminum 1060 pipe on my EF 50cc Extra 300 is still new looking and still holding inplace (just did cowl-off inspection and maintenance). I am going with Grieves pipes on my next Extreme Flight RC 150cc project in July w/ DA 170. I see that wavy777 is pretty much in agreement with me.

With that said, being weight conscience is one thing, but paying way too much thru the nose, just is not sensible. With the KS and other aluminum tuned pipes, is way more practical and will last through several planes if you are careful. In addition, with Extreme Flight RC 50cc planes, you really do not have to do alot to keep a light airframe. Both the Yak and the Extra are hitting 17.25 - 19 lbs, and with the DA50 on KS 1060 pipes, they both fly awesome. If you follow the manuals and build them to what Chris Hinson recommends, you WILL have a great flying IMAC & 3D monster!

< Message edited by Flyin Hawaiian -- 6/9/2008 4:31:02 PM >



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RE: Extreme F... - 6/9/2008 4:29:37 PM   
Flyin Hawaiian


 

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6pack, Sealing the hinge line will take care of that GAP, especailly if the gap is widest at the wing tip.

< Message edited by Flyin Hawaiian -- 6/9/2008 4:34:13 PM >



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RE: Extreme F... - 6/9/2008 4:39:17 PM   
6Packo Beer


 

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Cool I was reading that a bit extra gap will make the control surface even more responsive once they are properly sealed. The only other option is digging out robart hinges which i did once, its a nightmare.

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RE: Extreme ... - 6/9/2008 5:49:26 PM   
JoeAirPort



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I never worry about gaps. I make sure I get the deflection I want and seal whatever gap is left.... within reason of course...the hinge has to be in far enough into the hole to keep the hinge strong.

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RE: Extreme ... - 6/9/2008 11:08:56 PM   
cjmonkey


 

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HELP!!

I got the first two flights on my blue/yellow bird the other day!! I have a bit of a problem. Im hoping that those more experienced pilots out there can assist me with it;

I balanced the CG just outside the rear of the recommended range ( roughly 7" ) When i took off for the first time, i got to a safe altitude and then released the sticks to see how she tracks. She immediately dived straight for the ground! I had to give 7 clicks of up elevator to get hands off straight and level!

Once trimmed, she flew nice, but i am concerned about just how much trim it needed. Im going to check incidence tonight. If i happen to find a problem with incidence, does the aircraft warranty cover this? What are my options. Looking at the stab and the wings, it doesn't look like i can modify them easily.

< Message edited by cjmonkey -- 6/9/2008 11:29:57 PM >

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RE: Extreme ... - 6/9/2008 11:39:12 PM   
Jake Ruddy



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Hrmm.. slightly different post over here than the first post about your madien elsewhere

Several things can effect this.. incidence and thrust. Both of which need to be checked starting with incidence.

It is an easy fix.. for the amount of change you would need to do will take you less than an hour.



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