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Emergency withdraw fixes - 8/18/2007 6:06:30 PM   
Joe K



Posts: 393
Joined: 6/5/2002
From: Springfield, IL,
Status: offline 		OK your king parts are on order or your just out of hobby funds, and you are having extreme heli withdraws. What home made repairs or rigs have you tried, with or without success?
If you can post pictures the more the better.


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Hi my name is Joe and I am a Heliholic
       Post #: 1

RE: Emergency withdraw fixes - 8/18/2007 6:11:30 PM   
Joe K



Posts: 393
Joined: 6/5/2002
From: Springfield, IL,
Status: offline 		I Broke front of skid (aluminum tube). I took a bamboo rod (chop stick) chucked it up in my cordless drill, I then held a piece of sand paper around it. Checking often to see if it would just fit in the broken skid.
I then cut it down to the size I needed, I then used JB Weld and pushed the pieces in place, wiping off excess.
Results : good, hardly noticeable, stronger, adds a little weight but not noticeable.
I now have my replacements but have not had a reason to change.
I will assemble my new set and have them ready to throw on.

Sorry for poor pic my wife has our good camera.
Fix is the line in front of strut. Note If you look behind the JST connector you can see some foam I put in to help with balance and in a crash battery can slide back into frame and cut down on the impact to lipo.


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Hi my name is Joe and I am a Heliholic

(in reply to Joe K)
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RE: Emergency withdraw fixes - 8/18/2007 6:48:59 PM   
Joe K



Posts: 393
Joined: 6/5/2002
From: Springfield, IL,
Status: offline 		Motor
I found a price I could not pass up $27 for brushless motor and ESC.
GOT LOST IN MAIL! From Hong Kong.
They are sending me another but switching to bigger motor because they were out of the other . So I am still waiting! Do your self a favor order local unless you can wait 15 working days to see if they lost it!
SO
I pulled out dead stock motor, surprised to find bushes worn but still good but bushing on pinion side was worn and sloppy. I took the bushing out of an old motor and replaced worn bushing, and then I placed my armature in my cordless drill and used a Black & Decker wizard with a polishing disk and compound to polish it like new, cleaned brushes with brake cleaner and it is still running.
Use a pick or very small screw driver to clean compound and metallic dirt out from between the little copper plates, be careful not to create a bur or scratch copper plates.

The picture is just an example of how I did it, this armature is from the motor I took the bushing from you can see the copper is still black.


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Hi my name is Joe and I am a Heliholic

(in reply to Joe K)
       Post #: 3

RE: Emergency withdraw fixes - 8/24/2007 1:42:35 AM   
Joe K



Posts: 393
Joined: 6/5/2002
From: Springfield, IL,
Status: offline 		What no one has anything to add
Ok I will throw one more out there.


My tips for Feather shaft straightening.
Sorry I could not get a clear close up picture to come out, so I will do my best to explain.

Most know to place the shaft on a steel plate and roll the shaft so that light can shine under the shaft then simply hit the high spot with a hammer.
This gets it close but, it really needs to bend a little past straight to get it to stay in the straight position.
If you place it on a board and use the same processes, the board gives just enough to fine tune.
Do not hit it to hard or it will bend too far.

The board also dose not distort the threads on the ends of the E-SKY shaft.
When using a steel plate place on the corner of the plate with both of the threaded tips hanging off so the threads don’t get damaged.
I hope this helps someone.


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Hi my name is Joe and I am a Heliholic

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       Post #: 4

RE: Emergency withdraw fixes - 8/24/2007 4:44:22 AM   
ezveedub



Posts: 428
Joined: 6/8/2007
From: Davie, FL, USA
Status: offline 		I'll do you one better on the feathershaft if you don't want to spend time straightening it. Install the Trex 450 feather shaft (not the new V2 though). Myjbm tipped me on this one. You use the align shaft (AGNH1115). That should have the dampening spacer (AGNH1114) with 4 shafts. You can also use the O-rings (AGNH1166). I only thing else need is to M2x5 (AGNH1114) or 6mm socket headed bolts (Dubro). The Align bolt comes with washers you can use under the bolt to the thrust bearing. To install, remove the ESky feathershaft, & o-rings. Install the Align o-rings, feathershaft & spacer collers. Then install the small ESky bearing washer (small step facing the bearing in the blade holder), the blade holders, thrust bearings and screw the M2x5mm screw in (I didn't use the washer). Place some blue threadlock on the screws. This setup works smoothly. Runs about $10-12, you can find them in almost any LHS with helis and gives you 2 dampening o-rings and 4 shafts. Pic shows the old shaft with nuts (pain in the butt to set the nuts evenly) and new align parts (bolts not shown, in the HBK2 right now)

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Hornet X-3D, Trex 450SE, Mini-Z
MP777, MBX5R , MBX5T, Inferno & Spada 09, MBX6, MP9

(in reply to Joe K)
       Post #: 5

RE: Emergency withdraw fixes - 8/25/2007 4:25:47 AM   
Joe K



Posts: 393
Joined: 6/5/2002
From: Springfield, IL,
Status: offline 		I hear the Align O-RINGS are better.
But not clear on how you are taking up the slack?
A picture of parts in order would be good if you had the time.



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Hi my name is Joe and I am a Heliholic

(in reply to ezveedub)
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RE: Emergency withdraw fixes - 8/25/2007 5:08:40 AM   
ezveedub



Posts: 428
Joined: 6/8/2007
From: Davie, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Actually, the picture I posted is all thats needed. Use 2 o-rings, one feathershaft and the two spacers that come with the shaft. Install shaft in head, install o-ring, install spacer. Then install the ESky small washer with the step facing the bearing in the blade holder, then the blade holder, the thrust bearing inside the blade holder and then install the M2x5mm screw. Repeat for the other side.If you want a tighter dampening for more aggresive flight. Align has a wider spacer. The spacer that comes with the feather shafts is 1.5mm thick. Align has a 2.5mm spacer you can install also. If get the part number, I'll post it. I actually have the part, but no actual part number. Also, the picture shows the older black steel shaft. I believe the newer ones are stainless steel but they are exactly the same.


_____________________________

Hornet X-3D, Trex 450SE, Mini-Z
MP777, MBX5R , MBX5T, Inferno & Spada 09, MBX6, MP9

(in reply to Joe K)
       Post #: 7

RE: Emergency withdraw fixes - 8/27/2007 7:05:31 AM   
n00bflyer


 

Posts: 59
Joined: 6/28/2007
From: , MI, USA
Status: offline 		Rainy day fix #101

Ok so recently my "one way drive gear" failed. I was all set for a good three battery run at the park. Put the first battery in and started to bring the rotor up to speed, then backed off to adjust some trims then went to spool up the rotors again and I hear the whirr of the motor but the rotor just coasted to a stop. I thought my motor had shifted and the pinion wasn't contacting the main gear but NO the darn clutch broke. How many other people have had this problem?....I always seem to get the weird stuff breaking on me.

So I took that little bolt out at the bottom of the main shaft, stuck a flexible wire in there (the largest I could find that would fit) and wraped the wire up and over two spokes on the main gear. It works great! I guess now I can't auto rotate in for landing but I'm not that good yet anyway.

(in reply to ezveedub)
       Post #: 8

RE: Emergency withdraw fixes - 8/27/2007 7:30:03 AM   
ezveedub



Posts: 428
Joined: 6/8/2007
From: Davie, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Have you been lubing the one-way? Most one-way bearings requires lubing to keep them from slipping. Sometime lube can bring them back also. I have a bottle of Serpent One-way I use all the time on mine.


_____________________________

Hornet X-3D, Trex 450SE, Mini-Z
MP777, MBX5R , MBX5T, Inferno & Spada 09, MBX6, MP9

(in reply to n00bflyer)
       Post #: 9

RE: Emergency withdraw fixes - 9/3/2007 1:34:57 PM   
Joe K



Posts: 393
Joined: 6/5/2002
From: Springfield, IL,
Status: offline 		Honeybee King Attacks oak tree, and loses fight!

288mm carbon fiber pattern blades are foam with a plastic stiffener. (Tips broken off)
I simply taped blades together and squared them off on band saw.

Frame broke between motor and upper main frame.
I noticed a week before that the upper frame was developing a slight S shape on both sides of the main belt pulley and bearing. (It seems to be a weak spot, So was already planning a fix before crash)

Nose in the right frame motor mount was broken off the left side was cracked 90%.
I used epoxy to glue the broken right side to left side.
I then made an aluminum plate to stiffen and hold frame together.
The plate is JB Welded to the right upper frame (front and back) with a set of screws in back of both sides of main frame. The screws from the motor go through the aluminum plate doubling as a heat sink.
This so far seems to be stronger than before.

Sorry for the poor pic


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Hi my name is Joe and I am a Heliholic

(in reply to ezveedub)
       Post #: 10

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