Posts: 124
Joined: 3/15/2005 From: kensington,
CT, USA Status: offline
Thanks for the heads up. I am prone to jumping ahead of myself. I have no issue with Carden's method of retaining the screws in the elevator, I'm just trying something different.
Posts: 124
Joined: 3/15/2005 From: kensington,
CT, USA Status: offline
I have a few pics of some recent progress. I decided to cut another hole in the lower bellypan near the tail. I also trimmed the wing skins on the elevators and cut both at the hing lines with a razor saw. I then cut the extra material where the 1/2 inch balsa will be used for the hinge points. I made up 1/4 inch plywood for the root caps. I am doing this instead of balsa due to a small change I want to make in the way the elevator is held in place. I am going to use aluminum " dowels" one in front near the leading edge and one near the hinge line for antirotation pins. These will go into hard points in the fuse with some type of sleeve to prevent wear. To hold everything together. I sanded down two small lengths of wood dowel to a tight fit inside the elevator wing tube. I flat spotted the dowel and drilled a hole thru the other side. I ground down a blind nut to fit in the recess and allow the dowel to still slide into the tube. When I have the elevators fit and the incedence set, I am going to put the tail together, drill thru the hole in the hardpoint recessed in the wing, and mark the two holes in the wing tube. I'll then remove the wing tube end drill the holes to the proper size. Then I'll slide the dowels with the blind nuts into the wing tube and line up the holes. The blind nut can't back out or spin due to the snug fit. I had a H9 cap with a similar setup minus the blind nut in the dowel. The hole in the tube ended up stripping out so I hope this will solve that issue. Agian, I just want to make clear that I have no issue with Cardens setup. I came up with this a couple weeks ago and wanted to try it.
Posts: 124
Joined: 3/15/2005 From: kensington,
CT, USA Status: offline
I have been working on getting the ailerons cut from the wings. I went with 5 inch by 52 inch instead of 45 inches. Doing this step is not as bad as I thought it would be. I hope to have the balsa caps on all surfaces I cut this evening and I'll post some pics this evening.
I have been working on getting the ailerons cut from the wings. I went with 5 inch by 52 inch instead of 45 inches. Doing this step is not as bad as I thought it would be. I hope to have the balsa caps on all surfaces I cut this evening and I'll post some pics this evening.
You'll be glad you made the ailerons longer as it will be easier to stop it from torque rolling if you just want to hover.
Posts: 124
Joined: 3/15/2005 From: kensington,
CT, USA Status: offline
A guy at the field with a Carden suggested longer ailerons than the plans called for just for that reason. I can barely hover long enough to see any rolling but when I get there, the extra length will help. The camera battery is dead so no pics this evening.
Posts: 124
Joined: 3/15/2005 From: kensington,
CT, USA Status: offline
I finally got to forming the hinge lines on on of the main wings. I glued the 3/8 balsa to the wing with gorilla glue then sanded it flush. I them marked the center line and started removing material with a mini plane. I got close then switched to a sanding bar. It actually came out great and I hope to have the others finished soon.
Posts: 124
Joined: 3/15/2005 From: kensington,
CT, USA Status: offline
I took the day off from work today so I was able to really get some work done on the plane. I'm still plugging away at the hinge lines but I only have the elevators left to do. Here are some pics.