Posts: 594
Joined: 10/28/2002 From: Somewhere in the west, USA Status: offline
diony you got my vote on that , you forgot to mention the weight of the servos at the wing tip create unwanted momentum on spins and rolls (dumbbell effect) and increase the tendency to tip stall.
Posts: 1549
Joined: 12/12/2002 From: Blue Collar TV ,
ND, USA Status: offline
[QUOTE]Originally posted by foxx diony you got my vote on that , you forgot to mention the weight of the servos at the wing tip create unwanted momentum on spins and rolls (dumbbell effect) and increase the tendency to tip stall. [/QUOTE]
Excellent points foxx, keep those wing tips light! Maybe the jet movement started this? They make some excellent quality bell cranks now with brass bushings, really nice, no reason not to use them.
Posts: 325
Joined: 3/5/2003 From: south,
UT, USA Status: offline
Well I am just in awe. I am actively following your site and find it very inspirational.
I hope my question isn't to "beginner" but I would like to try putting gear doors on my next project and would like to use fiberglass for the material. However I saw Platt do his doors over a sheeted surface, then after the fiberglass was laid he cut out the sheeting for the retracts and wheels. Is this the way you did it?
Once again thanks for sharing your experiences. I look forward to the finished project.
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Joined: 12/12/2002 From: Blue Collar TV ,
ND, USA Status: offline
Thank you SVX, inspirational is a two way street, the encouragement I get from people like you and the rest of the guys here at RCU has helped tremendously! Thanks again.
I just talked to Dave Platt this evening as a matter of fact! Yes he is a member of the IRKS here in Florida, we had a club meeting tonight. I brought my Corsair, I was happy to have Dave say I did a good job, that means a lot! This is bragging I know, but I'm tickled to have him in the club!
[URL=http://www.irks.org/]IRKS[/URL]
Dave knows what he is doing, I did it the easy way however. I sheeted the bottom of the wing, Monokoted it then put the glass down over the Monokote. On my site I explain how I did the tail wheel doors, well I did the mains in the same way.
Posts: 26
Joined: 5/19/2002 From: sarasota,
FL, USA Status: offline
I have had two royals over the years. Great flying Bird. Lots of work though. Good news . If you can build that thing . you can build just sbout anything.
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Joined: 12/12/2002 From: Blue Collar TV ,
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Thanks Jhess,
With the old Royal/Marutaka kits it helps to know what you are going to do and how to do it!
Been getting the wing ready to glass, tightening up the gaps and filling the dings. I always glass the wing first so that I can get a good fit to the fuselage.
I have been looking for a good muffler to use, but none fit the way I want them to. I may want to add scale exhausts, so I decided to make my own using the Top Flite exhaust header coming off the engine. I used aluminum brazing, it actually welds the aluminum, very strong. You can burn a hole through the aluminum, so you have to be careful.
Here is a picture of the muffler test fitted, I am going to make plywood mounts and hold it on with metal straps. Thin strips of rubber will fit between the straps and the muffler.
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Joined: 12/12/2002 From: Blue Collar TV ,
ND, USA Status: offline
This is how the simulated "fabric" will look on the outer wing panels. It might be exaggerated, but it's not always about what is right as much as does it look right. I am modeling a war weary Corsair, so all the stress and G forces on the fabric have stretched it and caused it to sag!
dionysusbacchus, I'd simulate tank location and bench run your engine with your exhaust and whatever exhaust you used that worked well on this engine before. Tach your engine with each one, leaving all other variables the same. Bench running will also give you the ability to check the temperature of your exhaust. It's the best way of knowing how it will perform, short of flying with it. How about a better view of the outlet pipe?
I see that you have an aluminum cowl. Do you plan to open the cowl flaps? If so how do you plan to form them? What other means of cooling do you plan, if any? When it comes to exhaust, I always consider the heat factor. It would seem that a system with more surface area would expel more heat inside the cowl. Unfortunately two stroke engines tend to like more expansion area. Run it!