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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/21/2003 10:22:08 AM   
Devo


 

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dionysusbacchus, how many times have you hit your head on that light?

I've got the beloved Monocote on my TF Corsair. It looks ok, but I know it can look better in fiberglass. It's already getting up there at 10lbs 13oz, so my question is, what's a reasonable estimate of the added weight of a glass finish using your method?

Also, when using Monocote you have to do all your filling blending and fairing before you apply the finish (Monocote). This way you don't know how good your "body work" is until you're done. I'm assuming when you glass, you glass the airframe first and then do most of your bodywork before painting. Correct? If this is correct, then I would think that with all things considered, fiberglassing would be not just a better appearing finish than Monocote, but also easier to apply.

I've used rollers at work to spread seal on mating surfaces. It's the best method for spreading material of this type. If you haven't tried it I would recommend it. It's less messy than a spreader and gives you better control of the overall thickness of the layer you put down.

Have fun! By the way, my Corsair gets it's maiden flight this weekend! Yee Haw!

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/21/2003 4:26:26 PM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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Thanks Maiden Voyage, I think balsa does look kind of nice when you hit it with resin. That would be cool to make a sport plane in natural wood!

[QUOTE]dionysusbacchus, how many times have you hit your head on that light? [/QUOTE]

Hahaha OK, really I have never hit my head on it... hard anyway! It only took me 3 or 4 dents in the forehead, you see I'm a fast learner, now I just duck.

[QUOTE]I've got the beloved Monocote on my TF Corsair. It looks ok, but I know it can look better in fiberglass. It's already getting up there at 10lbs 13oz, so my question is, what's a reasonable estimate of the added weight of a glass finish using your method? [/QUOTE]

I wish I could have weighed each part before and after glassing, but I don't have a scale at the moment. For a Monokote job yours is kind of a plumper. I believe if done right fiberglassing can be comparable to Monokote, thinning the resin and not adding anymore is the key.


[QUOTE]Also, when using Monocote you have to do all your filling blending and fairing before you apply the finish (Monocote). This way you don't know how good your "body work" is until you're done. I'm assuming when you glass, you glass the airframe first and then do most of your bodywork before painting. Correct? If this is correct, then I would think that with all things considered, fiberglassing would be not just a better appearing finish than Monocote, but also easier to apply. [/QUOTE]

You have to do all your filling and sanding before adding the glass just like Monokote. Unlike Monokote though if you do have some bad spots you can fix them with some spot putty. I like to sand in a dimly lit area, this way imperfections will cast shadows. I believe glassing is easy using this method, but Monokoting is faster.


[QUOTE]I've used rollers at work to spread seal on mating surfaces. It's the best method for spreading material of this type. If you haven't tried it I would recommend it. It's less messy than a spreader and gives you better control of the overall thickness of the layer you put down. [/QUOTE]

The beauty of this method is that you have nothing to spread around. You paint it on and thats it, I wear gloves but I never get a drop of resin on me. My bench looks a little beat because I've been using it for about 8 years.

[QUOTE]Have fun! By the way, my Corsair gets it's maiden flight this weekend! Yee Haw![/QUOTE]

Wish I could be there to chear you on... GO DEVO GO DEVO GOOOOO!!!!

Luke

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/22/2003 6:17:22 PM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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After just trimming the cloth your ready to fill the weave. Epoxy is hard to sand, and it is very easy to sand through the cloth when trying to fill the weave with another coat of epoxy. Red spot putty is very light and is very easy to sand. I don't use a sanding block (you can't on a Corsair anyway!), I just let the sandpaper do the sanding. Just gently gliding over the surface will take off the excess spot putty with little effort on your part. I thinned the putty with acetone and brushed it on.

Remember that I want the cloth to show in the areas where the full scale Corsair had fabric on the wings, these areas are masked.

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/22/2003 6:19:14 PM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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Sanded:

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/22/2003 6:23:23 PM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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On the primer I'm pretty cheap! Chevron sells primer for $10 a can and I think this is a waste of money. I get mine at Wal Mart for $1.98! I hate to mix primer and spray it, so I'm a spray can man! I want to spend time on the more important areas like the final colors.

This is the wing with one coat of primer. I will sand this down then add the panel lines, then another coat of primer. That will also be sanded down then the tape removed.

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Cloth? - 6/22/2003 7:02:07 PM   
Rocketman612



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Luke,
Your work just keeps getting better. What wt cloth are you using .5 or .75 oz? Also I noticed you masked off the "Fabric" areas on the wing . Was that to keep the paint from getting too thick in that area? Pete


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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/22/2003 7:31:07 PM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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Thanks Pete, I think it's looking better all the time because it's starting to look like a Corsair! It's not me!

I'm using Sig .75oz glass. You are right about the fabric areas, I want the cloth to show in this area, saves some weight too!


Luke

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/24/2003 2:27:19 AM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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Here is a shot of the bottom of the wing.

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/24/2003 2:30:09 AM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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I like to finish the ailerons and flaps after doing the wing. I get a better fit this way, I know others can do everything at once and it turns out great, but I can't! The flaps on a Corsair are a little bit of a pain to get perfect, this way I can compensate for the extra clearance that is needed after glassing.

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/24/2003 2:30:48 AM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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Down:

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/24/2003 4:20:34 AM   
phayd



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what are the 4 holes (per wing) surrounding the shell eject slots?

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/24/2003 7:05:46 AM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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[QUOTE]Originally posted by phayd
what are the 4 holes (per wing) surrounding the shell eject slots? [/QUOTE]


zero-length rocket launcher holes!

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/26/2003 8:57:01 AM   
Juice



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Hey Luke...

Did you fiberglass the inside of your wheel wells? How about the inside of the retract bay where the rails are?

I'm cutting my glass tonight and I'm going to put in the first coat of WB polyurethane in morning. This should be fun!

Thanks,
Juice

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/26/2003 2:56:06 PM   
dionysusbacchus


 

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Juice,

No, I do not glass the wheel wells or retract area. I wanted a nice sharp edge where my fiberglass covers are screwed on. The corners are to sharp and small and the glass would not have stayed down in these areas, and it's not needed anyway. After I trim the cloth with some sandpaper, I go back over the corners and other areas that didn't get any resin. That's all I did with the bays is just give them a coat of resin.

Good luck with your covering Job, I can't tell you one thing about the products you are using however. I thought you were Monokoting?

Luke


sand sand sand....

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< Message edited by dionysusbacchus -- Jun 26 2003 12:21PM >

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Royal Corsair .60 project - 6/26/2003 7:03:21 PM   
Juice