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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/22/2009 6:44 AM   
jerrymac


 

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From: New Castle, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Do any of you guys know where I can get a BH 450 ARTF kit? Ka-Planes does not carry them any more. The reason I am looking for one is basically cause I really like my BH 450 se and have tons of spare parts for it. I usually practice new moves with my lil King 2's, but they are just too hard for me to see at a distance. Would like to put together another BH 450 but don't want to spend the extra on a RTF when I don't need the radio. I am using a DX7 an can take an RX out of 1 of the K2's. It seems that there are very few dealers that carry the Helipros.


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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/22/2009 10:59 AM   
dunkonu23



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Status: online 		Jerry,

Here's a link to Icantoys.com:

http://www.icantoys.com/black-hawk-belt-drive-helicopter-kitbrushless-motoresc-p-1473.html

Whether or not they have it is up in the air.  I ordered upgrade parts for my BH500 from them with explicit directions for them to cancel the order should they not have the items in stock.  Turns out they didn't have the items in stock and ordered what they thought i wanted.  I thought, " Cool... it's only $50.00 or so, I'll wait it out." 

Well, they shipped me parts I could have gotten here in the states and after I threathened a Paypal dispute, they coughed up the difference in price.  

This is about the only place I can find them.  Sorry, Jerry.

Scott




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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/22/2009 4:23 PM   
olwarbirds


 

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Status: offline 		Hey guys, after seeing all this stuff with the Bh im now glad i had cancelled the order i had for 2 of them one for me one for my brother, i sure hope replacement parts dont become an issue for yall.....im very happy with my helis, 3 diff trex's  a exi450  and my superframe hybrid 450 and my blade 400....only one i havnt flown so far is the hybrid, i have to finish it up soon and get it airborne but i been kinda busy with writing reviews on electric planes....ive got three planes coming in this week of which 2 i have to write reviews on, plus the corsair im writing a review on now so it will be a couple more weeks before i get a chance to get the hybrid setup.....if anybodies interested i have two trex 450xl frames that have never been flown yet for sale and ill give any of u all a really good deal on them....just pm me or email me if ur interested                DJ

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 6:43 AM   
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Status: offline 		I want to thank all of you for your help so far with my new blackhawk. Oiling the one way bearing seems to have fixed the problem with it getting stuck.

I'm exactly 2 months into this hobby and I'm really enjoying it. My first month was spent mostly crashing my honeybee FP. I'm hoping I got most of my crashing out of my system as I've been flying the BH450 SE almost every day since I got it 3 weeks ago and haven't crashed it yet
I did my first loops yesterday and today. I have successfully done 4 full loops, and one of them I held it upside down at the top of the loop for a little bit before completing it. This all went very well except for me shaking quite a bit after realizing what I was doing, however I am starting to encounter a problem.

Whenever I push the helicopter by being in idle-up and going full speed FF or doing loops it randomly will shut into a kind of low power mode. This can be described as very noticeable loss of power, as though the power to the motor is being capped, not allowed to pass a certain speed. This is the same phenomenon that occurs when the battery is low, but this is happening with nearly full battery charge (I can test this with the battery testers that I have, which also allow me to see individual cell charge). I am making sure not to let cells go below 3.00V, and I don't think this is related to a battery being low (it happens on both batteries I have). A friend of mine mentioned that the ESC will trip into the low power mode sometimes if too much current is being drawn through it to save itself. I have been playing with the knob on the upper right of the stock controller which I have figured out to be throttle-to-pitch ratio. I've heard that too much pitch will put extra strain on the motor. I've tried flying as low as the knob will allow me to set the pitch (which in turn creates a fast head speed to stay airborne) but it still can end up going into this mode. I have noticed that it will come out of this mode if I land the heli and just spin down the blades for a moment. I can then immediately take off with full power again (until I do something other than just hover or very slow FF which makes it trip again).

I have noticed the ESC gets VERY hot after these flights. If I touch it I can't hold my finger there for any amount of time. Knowing what I know about electronics, I would think this is not an acceptable temperature. Perhaps the heat is causing the ESC to trip into a low power mode? Is there some way I could attach a cooling device to the ESC? For the moment I'm quite broke and buying an aftermarket ESC (or DX6i as someone suggested earlier for my tail wag problem to be able to set my gyro gain) is not an option. Such upgrades will have to wait at least 5 months. So I'm looking for stock solutions. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

As a side note, a question about maintainable: I've been oiling the belt with silicon spray, and putting 3in1 oil on the metal head bearings. Just wondering what other maintenance I should be doing as I am flying this every day. I heard that I should not oil the brushless motor as they come pre oiled from the factory and don't require it so I've not been oiling that.

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 7:48 AM   
dunkonu23



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Status: online 		Great going on the loops! I've been frightened to try it. I can do stall turns, but that's about it for anything close to resembling stunt flying.

To address your questions. On the motor shutting down. I'll ask some questions then give you some suggestions:

1. What kind of batteries are you usingnot brand, but cell count, mah, and C rating? Reason I'm asking this is that a stock BH450 comes with a 35 amp ESC and if you're bursting above this, I suspect this is causing too much current draw. Remember, motors will draw as much as they can draw in order to perform the task at hand. So, if your batteries can provide the current, the ESC will try to pass it until it can't anymore and then it will shut down.

1a. Does the power down happen when the ESC is dead cold as well (i.e. at the beginning of your flight)?

2. This is tied to number 1. Is the motor getting hot, as well? If so, this can be many things. First, make sure the pinion isn't slipping. If it slips, you'll lose power. Check this after a flight when things are warm. Also, I've found that tightening the pinion when things are warm makes it hard for the pinion to slip when things heat up. Just be careful because the set screw can strip the threads on the gear very easily. Next, what I would do is check my gear mesh. If it's too tight, you will put a strain on the motor and if it's too loose, it may cause a small hiccup that you can't see when the gears fall out of mesh and then suddenly return. That hiccup can may cause a sudden current draw. You can tell if the gear is too tight because it will leave a brass coating all over the main gear. I know this because my gear mesh was too tight when I first got my helicopter. You'll also see wear on the pinion gear that looks out of proportion to the amount you've flown. With my current gearing, I've flown over 40 flights and there's almost no coating on the main gear or wear on the pinion. This is a biggie, properly setup, your helicopter will be much smoother and much more quiet, as well.

3. Are the wires to the motor (not from the ESC, but the wires from motor to the barrel connector) hot as well? I'm asking this because with the stock motor, I've experienced a situation where the original solder joints at the barrel connectors were bad and once warm, the helicopter would just shut down until it cooled. In fact, one of the wires actually broke at the barrel connector and I never even moved the wire. So, check this out.

To summarize, I suspect your friend is correct that there is an over current condition happening that's throwing your esc into some kind of protect mode. The problem with being sure about this is the stock ESC itself. For the life of me, I tried to find a Powertech ESC manual and could not.

I know you don't have the funds, but once you do have funds, the first thing I would replace in helicopter is the ESC. I go by this philosophy: If it's got a manual, it has to be better than something that doesn't have a manual at all. At least with a manual, you'll be able to do things and know what you've done.

Scott



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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 8:02 AM   
jerrymac


 

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Status: offline 		Well, first of all, glad to hear that you are enjoying the new BH. Always nice to hear that we may have been a little help in getting somebody in the air. Second, I would suggest not running your lipos below 3.3 volts at the very minimum. They will last longer. I actually never run mine below 3.5 volts. I know some people like to get that extra minute of flying, but you take a chance of damaging your lipos, or at least shortening the life of them.
Now the other problem. Sounds to me like the esc is running at its max. output if it is getting that hot. Mine is usually just warm after a 6 min. flight. It is the stock one that came with the BH also. Have you checked to make sure that the gear mesh is not too tight or any other binding that might cause a drag on the motor? You might want to also try moving the esc to a different location that lets it get better airflow. I moved mine because I made a different battery tray that uses up the space where the esc was originally mounted, but, without going to look at it I can't really remember where I put it, lol.

EDIT....Huh, well Scott types faster than me, lol. Got his post in while I was typing.

EDIT #2, I just took a look and I put my esc in the original battery tray right under the motor. Don't really know about airflow , but it is not close to the top of the canopy like it is when on the top.

< Message edited by jerrymac -- 6/26/2009 8:31 AM >

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 8:40 AM   
gizmo8500


 

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Status: offline 		I'll have to test a few things out tomorrow, but I can answer some of the questions here (I'm actually at work...midnight shift this week):

"1. What kind of batteries are you using?"
15c I believe is what the stock battery is, 3 cell 1800Mah. I also bought an aftermarket 2400mah 3 cell 15c.

"1a. Does the power down happen when the ESC is dead cold as well (i.e. at the beginning of your flight)?"
This is something I will have to test out more thoroughly tomorrow, but I don't think so. It may be because I don't try anything crazy until a few min into flight, but I have not noticed it happen immediately after take off.

"Is the motor getting hot, as well?"
Yes. I don't know how hot is normal for brushless. Its not getting as hot as the ESC, but def more than what could be considered "warm". I will check the pinion first thing before my next flight to see if it is slipping. As for the mesh between the pinion and the gear, it seems to be exactly where everyone says it should be, not completely meshed but not loose. I have noticed that the red main gear is getting a black residue on it (on the teeth). It seems like grease, but from what I cannot tell. Its actually quite perplexing to me. The pinion is a brass color which I can't imagine could produce black. There is also a black residue showing up on the inside of the canopy. Perhaps I am wearing out something that produces a black residue that I shouldn't be.

sad face for having to stop at 3.3v. I have been avoiding this because the cells don't discharge evenly. Ususally I end at something like Cell 1: 3.00, Cell 2:3.25, Cell 3: 3.45. It would be a very short flight if I have to stop when the first cell gets to 3.3 I think. Considering the stock charger takes about 4 hours to charge the battery for about 8-10 min of flight, I try to get as much out of the battery as I can.

BTW, I figured out via reading about HH mode and rate mode that my heli is most def in rate mode and I most def want it to be in HH mode. With the stock controller is there any way to change the mode? The knob in the upper left is def not gyro gain (instead they decided to make it some funky thing that makes the swash plate un-level so that if you bump it before take off you almost crash your heli), and the upper right knob is throttle-pitch ratio.

*EDIT*
What the heck is that weird short 4 pin cable that comes wrapped around the antenna on the controller? Maybe I hook it to a port on the receiver and...then...something. Its the same thing included in this: http://www.hobbypartz.com/exrc62tr.html controller (which incidently is identical to the stock BH controller except for the sticker on the front). Its in the picture of included items to the right of the blue CD.
*EDIT*:
I just answered This question for myself. Its a "bind" plug to bind the transmitter to the receiver if need be. (found it on the video they have on that page produced by nuttcaze). Also, just FYI for anyone else out there who is using the stock controller. I am willing to bet the software for this "T6" controller will work with the BH controller. I found this page with the installer files that come with the T6 so anyone can try this out as long as you have the USB to serial cable. http://www.mycoolheli.com/t6config.html

I am in strong agreement with the theory about equipment that comes with manuals. I probably would not have to ask so many questions if my manual had anything about this stuff in it.

Tomorrow I will try to hunt down where the black residue is coming from and also test the pinion set screw tightness, along with the temperature of the wires.

P.S. Do you guys ever sleep? lol

< Message edited by gizmo8500 -- 6/26/2009 8:53 AM >

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 9:10 AM   
jerrymac


 

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Status: offline 		Ok, I see a problem or 3. The stock 1800mah 15C lipo only puts out 27 amps so that might be a problem since the esc is rated at 35 amps it can't pull the max power= get hot. The esc can't measure individual cell voltage of the battery, only total voltage so the low cell could be getting much lower while the motor is running in flight. You need to get a balancer for your lipos before you destroy them. It balances all cells so that they are the same voltage after charging them. That way they should be real close to the same after flying.
Although I have a rather expensive charger so I can charge faster you can probably get a stock Esky one pretty cheap that balances the cells. If not I can send you one as I think I have 3 of them that came with my King 2's and I don't use them.
For lipos I use 2100mah 20C in my BH.

What is SLEEP? Oh yeah, I guess that is something that I should try to get once in a while, lol. Night Gizmo,me gotta work today.

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 9:31 AM   
gizmo8500


 

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Status: offline 		I'm a little confused. Are you saying that because the ESC isn't getting enough power, that is why it is getting hot? I would think that would make the battery hot, not the ESC. In my case the battery is just getting warm.

I actually have the Esky Lipo charger that came with my Lipo Honeybee FP which I have been using to charge these along with the stock charger. I'm pretty sure they are both a balancing charger. I always check them with my lipo tester before I run them in the heli and they are all very nearly balanced. For some reason Cell 1 always shows up as a little less than cell 2 and 3. Usually it looks like "Cell 1: 4.17v Cell 2: 4.20v Cell 3: 4.19v"

Maybe I'll have to wait till I can afford a 20c battery to do stunts and inverted flight. I've been practicing flying upside down in the simulator in preparation for doing so for real, however it would be real bad to go into low power mode while hovering upside down...

Sleep well, I'll post more on here after some test flights tomorrow evening before I go to work. I'll probably put up some pictures of my main gear and the residue that I have noticed.

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 9:49 AM   
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Status: offline 		Oh yeah, a quick note, the black stuff you see is probably just some residue from the tail belt. And that seems kinda strange that the esc is getting hot and the battery is not. I would think that the battery would be getting kinda hot too. Maybe there is a problem with the esc, I dunno.

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 11:18 AM   
dunkonu23



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Status: online 		Just a note about the black stuff... you said you used 3 in 1 oil on moving parts so I'm assuming you used it on your bearings and the OWB, as well. Chances are that if the black stuff isn't from the belt, it's residual oil being thrown around by rotational forces.

Oh, and yeah... in about two hours, I'll be at home, asleep... then I'm getting up to go to the Midwest Fun Fly!

Scott

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 4:50 PM   
olwarbirds


 

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Status: offline 		Scott ur a dog bro wish i cud join ya man...sorry i havnt been around and helping guys, ive been really busy writing reviews on a whole series of rtf parkflyers ive gotten six of them in the past few weeks and another one due today ...Giz loosing a minute or two of flight time is better than having to buy another lipo.....ups was just here woohoo another warbird a at6 ...if any of u r interested in reading any of my reviews they r located here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_193/tt.htm then just click on the ones with my nick as the starter....Giz my frnd congrats on the loops very cool man DJ

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 6:40 PM   
dunkonu23



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Status: online 		Well, no Midwest Fun Fly for me today. I haven't been to bed yet and the reason is this. My car is at the shop with either a burned or dropped valve. The bad news is that if its not covered by warranty, it's gonna cost between 3 and 4 thousand dollars to fix. The good news is: If it's under warranty, I get a new engine, free. So far, there's every indication it's going to be free. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

Scott

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 6:54 PM   
olwarbirds


 

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Status: offline 		Scott, dang bro sorry to hear that ur missing the flyin, i hope u get a new engine man, since u work for mopar cant u get some strings pulled DJ

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/26/2009 11:18 PM   
dunkonu23



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Status: online 		It's covered by warranty. So, all I have to do is find my oil change receipts. Actually, DJ, I work for Verizon Business and I'm a contractor to Chrysler, so I'm a step removed. :-)

It's all good.

Scott

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/27/2009 12:25 AM   
olwarbirds


 

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Status: offline 		Woohoo bro, ok got ya...can ya hear me now ..i bet u hate that....LOL...glad it was under warranty...DJ

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/27/2009 5:59 AM   
gizmo8500


 

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Status: offline 		I did some further testing to figure out this low power mode problem and I think I've solved it.

I noticed that when I would first start flying it wouldn't happen for a while. Then once it did happen and I would land it, and restart the heli it would only take about 15-30 seconds for it to happen again. This made me think more strongly it was heat so I cut out the heat shrink on the side of the ESC where the heat sync is. I also cut vent holes in the canopy.

Now I can fly two full battery packs and not have it power down once (until low battery that is). This may just be my perception but I swear the batteries also lasted longer. Since I'm not timing my flights and just going by feel I cannot verify this.

I did a few more loops and some very high speed turns. I almost lost it at one point, but recovered just in time. The fact that the gyro is not in HH mode is really screwing me up, allowing the tail to drift one way or the other while doing these high speed maneuvers. I believe I've determined that my radio came bound incorrectly for the upper left knob. I should be able to change this in the software for it, however I've yet to get the software to recognize the controller through the E-SKY USB-Serial dongle. Mike at KA-Planes told me that it should work with the ESKY cable but so far no luck for me. I'm a Computer Scientist and an IT professional, and am pretty confident in my ability to install drivers and setup devices. I've not given up all hope yet, but I would say at this point its looking like the programming software is not going to work for me.

On a slightly unrelated note, I got to fly my friends Blade 400 today with Dx6i transmitter. Very interesting heli. Feels very different from the BH450SE. The Blade 400 seems more twitchy (could just be the curves set in the Dx6i), but I also noticed it definitely had more power to weight ratio. I also got to experience the wonders of a correctly operating HH gyro. Full throttle and pitch produced a noticeably faster climb rate, and it also seemed to have more cyclic control allowing for a faster roll rate. The blade was also noticeably quieter than the BH450, even though its stock motor was 3800kv, which I believe is faster than the stock BH motor. I didn't get a lot of time with it today so I can't say if I would really like one heli over the other, and I'm sure with some minor upgrades I could get the BH to smoke that blade. I felt that the build quality was far superior on the BH450SE. The metal head alone is much nicer than the plastic head components on the blade. The whole body is made out of plastic on the Blade, and has a more flimsy feel than the BH body. My guess is that the BH450 is heavier than the Blade 400, and therefore is a little slower. At this point I would say that I am still quite happy with choosing the BH450SE over the Blade 400.

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/27/2009 6:41 AM   
jerrymac


 

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Status: offline 		Hey Gizmo, did your BH not come with a cable to hook it to your PC? Mine did but I never used it to program the Tx cause I am using a Dx7 for all my helis. Mine came with the cable and software disc, but again, don't know if it works the way it was intended.
What pinion came on your BH? I think the motor is 3500kv if I remember right. Anyhow, mine came with a 10 tooth pinion and I replaced it with an 11 tooth and it has a noticeable increase in power in hard punch-outs.
Also, what gyro came with your BH? I use a Telebee with hitec hs50 servo on the tail.

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/27/2009 6:56 AM   
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Status: offline 		The BH I got is basically identical to everything included in this kit from xheli: http://www.xheli.com/black-hawk-450.html
The Gyro is the same GY191 Head Lock Gyro that is in the picture there.

No the controller didn't come with a cable. Does your stock controller look like the one in the pictures from xheli? If so I wonder if I was supposed to get one in the box, although XHELI doesn't mention that it comes with a USB cable.

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/27/2009 11:46 AM   
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Status: offline 		Giz, ive got a blade 400 myself...ur right it is lighter...i got mine in a used combo with the dx6i and that was the reason i had gotten it to begin with was for the radio...but u do a bit of upgrading to it...i changed out the servos, added a few key cnc parts and its almost as nice as my trex 450se v2...i agree with u the frame is a bit on the flexy side, im going to be upgrading it soon, xmhobbies has a cf and cnc frame i really like for the blade...another great thing about the blade helis is the parts availability...my blade 400 was my first cp heli and i doubt ill ever get rid of it, ive crashed it so manytimes now that i think the only part i havnt changed is the frame glad to hear u got ur heat prob possible fixed DJ

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/27/2009 11:35 PM   
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Status: offline 		Well I did it. I had my first crash with the BH. I did 3 successful loops and decided I would finally try for a roll....bad idea. It went down fast. I almost had it recovered when it went behind a tree and I couldn't see it. I hit throttle hold and it crashed.

Bent tail boom: should I try un-bending it?
Bent Spindle Feathering shaft
Bent flybar
The guide pulleys behind the main gear for the tail belt bent a little. I was able to bend them back with my finger.
The main gear is a little stripped. I'm more concerned that the main gear is not level with the frame anymore, it is angled down towards the front. Not sure what is causing this yet. Maybe there is a bent main shaft. Can't tell until I tear it apart.
NO damage to the main blades....go figure.
Anyhow, guess its time I learn how to fix this thing, although the timing is bad because I was about to go to Myrtle Beach this coming wednesday to visit family and show off my new hobby....unfortunately I don't have a spare main gear or tail boom so I think I'm dead in the water unless I can straighten out that tail boom and if the main gear isn't too badly stripped. Oh well, had to happen some time, just glad I didn't break the frame or anything too critical.

*Corrections*
Turns out I also bent the "tail rotor hub" http://ka-planes.com/inc/sdetail/1287
The reason the gear was angled down is because the one way bearing shaft or bearing itself is bent.
Tail Pitch Yoke is wobbling ever so slightly, but causes the yoke to hardly move on the shaft when at certain rotations. http://ka-planes.com/inc/sdetail/1305

Total cost of crash: $31.80 based on KA-Planes prices + $2.10 if the main shaft is bent (which I don't think it is, but can't get it completely off cause I don't have the right size Allen wrench)
Bit pricey for me esp right now.... :-(

BTW, I figured out an easy way to test to see if some of these bearings are bent since things like the tail pitch yoke is small and hard to see if it is not perfectly straight.
Just free it from any other linkage or connector and spin it on the main shaft. Then the wobble becomes much more pronounced.

< Message edited by gizmo8500 -- 6/28/2009 9:22 AM >

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/28/2009 6:17 AM   
jerrymac


 

Posts: 361
Score: 105
Joined: 9/27/2008
Last Login: 11/8/2009
From: New Castle, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Hey, hang tight Giz while I zero your 20. On vacation this week. Got more parts on hand than the lhs. Might be able to bring you some down, but gotta see where u b. Please stand by........

How far u from 79, can meet u at the West Virginia welcome center on 79 just south of Pa. line if u need parts. About 110 miles drive there for me.

< Message edited by jerrymac -- 6/28/2009 6:24 AM >

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/28/2009 7:32 AM   
gizmo8500


 

Posts: 40
Score: 100
Joined: 5/30/2009
Last Login: 11/3/2009
From: Flemington, WV, USA
Status: offline 		I'm right off 79 so that would be real easy for me to get there. That would be amazing if you could meet up with me. I'm off work until wednesday starting 8 this morning (I'm on the last midnight shift right now which ends at 8 in the morning) so I'm free any time this sunday, monday, or tuesday.

Btw, sorry for the delayed response. For some reason my iPhone didn't alert me to a new post like it normally does.

So parts I don't have include:
Tail Rotor Hub
Tail Boom (if it can't be repaired)
Main Gear with bearing
Tail Pitch Yoke

If you don't have the parts is there a hobby store in Pittsburgh that would have heli-pro parts? I imagine its pretty hard to find a LHS that has heli-pro parts anywhere, let alone Pittsburgh or Morgantown.

< Message edited by gizmo8500 -- 6/28/2009 9:31 AM >

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/28/2009 12:50 PM   
dunkonu23



Posts: 602
Score: 105
Joined: 1/4/2009
Last Login: 11/7/2009
From: Hartand, MI, USA
Status: online 		Sorry to hear that Gizmo! You're making phenomenal progress, though. I would get a new boom, Gizmo.

Scott

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RE: The Better HeliPro Black Hawk - 6/28/2009 1:00 PM   
dunkonu23



Posts: 602
Score: 105
Joined: 1/4/2009
Last Login: 11/7/2009
From: Hartand, MI, USA
Status: online 		After getting back from the Midwest Fun Fly early last evening, I decided to go to the field and fly. Bad move. About 100 feet out and 100 feet up, I lost orientation and nosed in, hard. I should have been able to recover, but couldn't.

My damage, from top to bottom:

Blades
Broken link (2)
Feathering shaft
Flybar
Paddles
Antirotation bracket
Main shaft (snapped in two)
Elevator servo
Tail pitch slider assembly
Tail fin

I haven't even started to tear it down, yet. After watching some absolutely awesome flying yesterday afternoon at the Midwest Fun Fly, I realize it will take more than I've putting into this hobby to attain a level of expertise commensurate with my desires.

Scott

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