Jerzferno
Posts: 617
Joined: 6/13/2007
From: Lebanon,
NJ, USA
Status: offline
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REEG - Sorry the RTV didnt work. That was a quick attempt at fixing the problem. I think Zain might be on to something? Do you see fuel and dirt accumulated on your engine around the flywheel (Between the flywheel and engine block) and/or by the pull starter area? If you do, first thing is not to panic becasue you need that. Thats how those bearings get lubricated. But if theres an excessive amount, then you have air leaks in this/these areas. Common problem on used nitro engines. Bearings need replacing. Did you rebuild your carburetor? My LHS told me the carbs are notorious for leaks. As Zain said, there are O-rings on the needles. They are fitted over grooves in the needles so they move with the needle when you turn them. When you remove the needle, do it slowly. Replace the O-rings and give it another try.
Heres a lits of other things to do/try:
1. Hows your compression? When you pull gently on the pull starter rope, is there resistance, then it gets easy, then resistance again? If not your piston/sleeve are worn. Time to replace.
2. Take your pipe off and flush it out with water. Then blow dry it with compressed air. Maybe you have buildup in the pipe if your carb has been running rich? Ive seen this happen.
3. Fuel line and pressure line are good? Zip tie your tubing connections. Eliminate all areas for possible air leaks.
4. Do you clean your air filter after every 1 hour of run time? Clean it if you dont.
5. What glow plug are you using? Hot? Medium? Cool?
6. Hows your fuel? Is it relatively new? Do you leave it open when you run? Do you drain out your tank of whats ever left after you run and put it back in your fuel container? Dont. Maybe you have contaminated fuel? Nitro fuel is like a moisture magnet. Leave it open and it sucks moisture in. Get some fresh fuel if you suspect contamination and keep it closed when not being used.
7. Make sure your idle is open about 1mm. Remove the air filter and look in the carb. You can see the slide (silver cylinder). Adjust the idle screw so its open about 1mm. Dont set your idle with your servo end point adjustments.
8. Do you have a starter box? I tried the pull start method for my first 5 drops of fuel in tank one for break in. Ive used a starter box ever since. My fingers thank me. Pull starting is never fun with an engine that is way out of tune. Not a corrective action to your problem(s), but a method that will keep you from getting discouraged and from punitng it across your yard. LOL
9. Never tune a cold/cool engine. Make sure it is at operating temperature before you tune. Tune HSN first, LSN second.
10. Are there any exhaust leaks? Look around the header engine mating surface. Any signs of leaks? Fuel deposits? How about the coupler between the header and pipe? Zip tie that coupler tight. Replace the exhaust header seal if you see signs of leaks.
11. Make sure the cooling head screws are tight. Give each one a twist. Dont over do it or they will strip. Just check to make sure they have not come loose.
Im just throwing out these ideas. Most can have an impact on the performance of your engine. Try them one at a time. If you do them all and your engine runs fine afterwards, then youll have no idea what the problem was. If it happens again, youll have to do them all over again. One at a time. Well get you through this. Dont give up. Good Luck!
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We can rebuild it!
MARBETH Nitro Sports
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC 1/8th Scale Buggies >> RE: Kyosho Inferno Us Sports 
RE: Kyosho Inferno Us Sports - 
having the ability to customize stuff means this hobby is meant for you. 