RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered  
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RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered - 12/7/2007 7:27:14 AM   
Troy Newman


 

Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001
From: Goodyear, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		JR X9303 2.4 and XP9303 (72mhz) setup instructions for the elevators.


Make sure the radio is on a clean slate zero elevator trim and make sure the subtrims are at zero. The instructions here are for the JR 9303.

On a new model:

Hold the ENT button and power on the TX. This will enter the system menu.

Got to MDL Name and name the model. I chose “FOCUS”

Once the name is set, got to the DeviceSEL and push the roller bar to enter the menu.

Scroll to the bottom of the screen under each channel that says “ACT” and change it to “INH” This will turn off all the other switches and channels that are not being using in this models setup. It also allows us to setup the dual elevator servos using the 9303’s Servo MATE function.

Once all the channels (gear, Flap, Aux2, aux3 and aux4 are “INH” press the List button.

Scroll to Wing Type and press the roller bar.

Under Wing: set to “Flaperon” this turns on the dual aileron servos so we can setup aileron differential. This means Right aileron servo plugs into the Ail channel and the left aileron servo will plug into Aux1 or the Flap channel.

Next using the roller bar scroll down to the “INH” that is just below the ELEV channel. Press the roller bar. This will bring up a little box to choose the servo you want for the dual elevator channel. In my case I use the Gear channel #5.

Now you have dual elevator servos programmed. The trims will work and you have dual aileron servo and dual elevator servos programmed. This is about as easy as it gets setting up the dual servos.

Press ENT twice to take you back to the main screen of the radio and out of the system menu.

Plug the right elevator into the ELEV channel and the Left Elevator servo into the Gear channel on the RX.

Power up the servos for the elevators.

(in reply to Troy Newman)
       Post #: 151

RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered - 12/7/2007 7:59:17 AM   
Troy Newman


 

Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001
From: Goodyear, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		The next step is to get the servo arms aligned properly. JR servo wheels have an odd number of teeth on the spline. This means that if can get good alignment with one position rotate the horn 180degs and it will be within ½ tooth of its position before. Now this is where we use subtrim. See you guys though subtrim was for moving the surface to the center point. NOPE it’s for getting the servo arm aligned properly to give equal travel on both sides. The goal of a precision setup is to get everything as mechanically correct first. Then use the electronics in the TX to fine tune it. The larger the subtrim values the harder it will be to match up the two elevator servos so they throw exactly the same at all travel points. We want these elevators to be absolute mirror images.

To get this step correct you are going to have to play a little bit. Slide a pushrod tube section onto the clevis or control horn side of the titanium ends. This is shown in the photo on the 2nd from the left. Bring this pushrod up servo arm. We want the pushrod connection to the center of the servo wheel screw to form a 90deg angle. This means that the servos movement will be equal as close as we can get it off this center position. I use a Motel room key or old credit card to get the angle as close as I can. The photo below will show you the connection and the 90 deg angle. You can’t set the servo arm 90degs to the case of the servo. This is a common mistake. You need it 90 deg to the pushrod. This means that the servos rotation of equal angles each side will give the same linear distance of travel to the pushrod. This 90deg point means is getting your linkage as symmetrical as possible.

If your servo wheel needs some subtrim to get it perfect. Then adjust it with subtrim. See how much it takes. Say a value of 10 is really good. Yet a value of 35 or 60 is not so good. If you have a really low value like 10 you are good. If not then try and rotate the servo wheel 180degs to the other side of the wheel. This will get it closer on the spline and require less subtrim. Again subtrim it perfect and then look at the number. Your goal here is to pick the number that is the smallest. I was lucky. The R-elev servo was dead on with no subtrim at all. The L-elev needed about 6 for a subtrim to get it perfect. Why is this. Well the servos are brand new, so its not worn servos. It has to due with the electronic differences very small differences in the servos. Today’s digital servos are awesome and so close to each other its great. But there can be minor little differences. I want to minimize these differences. This subtrim is the first step in this task of matching up the two sides.

In the photos I had to cut a Days Inn card key to make my tool. Just be sure to use the true edge so that you get the 90deg angle. Align to the center of the 2mm bolt on the ball link or DARE link, and the servo screw. The photo shows the 90 deg angle after the pushrod is assembled. We are not there yet. But right now you get it as close as possible. The final adjustment of the pushrod length will get us dead on…The idea now is to choose the proper side of the servo wheel. If you choose the wrong side your sub trim values will be high and can affect your elevator tracking down the road.

While the servos are still powered up….Place a section of masking tape on the pushrod. This will give you an accurate mark location. This is gives an accurate location to cut. Remember the threaded sections on the titanium ends are smaller than original and we want to get the pushrod length as close as possible some only maybe a single turn or two is needed to center of the elevator mechanically. Place masking tape on the elevator at the tip to align it with the tip. Again this will not be the final location for alignment but we want to get it really close. Then the fine thread of the 2mm fitting will give use precise adjustment

I use a fine tip Sharpie for this mark the CF tube where to make the cut.



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< Message edited by Troy Newman -- 12/7/2007 8:18:49 AM >

(in reply to Troy Newman)
       Post #: 152

RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered - 12/7/2007 8:30:28 AM   
Troy Newman


 

Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001
From: Goodyear, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Using that Dremel cut off wheel again cut the CF pushrod tube at the Sharpie mark. You don’t want to use a saw or anything like that it can damage the end of the pushrod tube. The cut off wheel makes a fairly clean cut. The masking tape not only holds your mark, but also helps to keep the end of the tube from fraying as its cut.

Once cut use a sanding block in the photo is 150grit. The will clean up the edge and square it up.

Once it’s all squared up its time to get ready to glue the ends. Clean the barb side of the pushrod ends. I use denatured alcohol. You have been touching them with your fingers and the oil on your skin will prevent a good bond for the glue. You will notice the barb side has little grooves; this is to allow glue to flow into these grooves and act as teeth to grip inside the CF tube. Yet the grooves are spaced to not create stress risers like a section of all thread might. Clean the barb sides up with denatured Alky and let them dry it. It will happen pretty fast.

Glue is our next choice. Several options exist for the glue. A slow set epoxy will work. It gives a long work time but sometimes can get messy. The epoxy is usually pretty thin if you are using 30min. DO NOT USE a 5min epoxy. This stuff is poor at strength. We want a good solid bond. A popular choice is JB weld. Again don’t use the 5min JB Qwick stuff it will fail. The slow set JB weld is fine. 30min epoxy or JB weld will require you to leave this to cure overnight or at least many many hours. CA work in this application well and its done in about 15-20mins.

In this case I’m using the med CA from Bob Smith. It’s the Purple stuff. I have also used the Dark red which is the super thick stuff. DO NOT USE KICKER………………

Once the titanium ends are dry from the alcohol cleaning then start at one end. I’m choosing the clevis side. So take the servo wheel off the servo being careful to not touch the barb side of the pushrod end.

Get a paper towel handy as you will need it to wipe off excess glue right away. Later up the barb. Make sure you get good coverage in all the grooves. Slide the pushrod tube on the barb and rotate it and plunger motion it in and out. This is to get good coverage of the adhesive. You may need to add a little glue. Wipe off excess right away. Once it has good coverage leave it alone and go tot the other end. Lather this barb up with the thick or medium CA and plunger it in and out of the CF tubing. Rotate it to make sure the adhesive is in all the grooves and coverage is good.

Now for a trick from my experience: The air inside the pushrod tube will expand as the CA heats up and kicks off. You don’t want the pushrod end pushing out of the CF tube as the glue sets. So use a rubber band or several depending on the length. This will hold the ends tight on the CF tubing for the glue to cure. Again DO NOT USE KICKER. Just let it set for 15-20mins. To keep things from flopping around I unplug this elevator servo from the Receiver and attach the servo wheel to the spline of the servo. Look close at the photos and you will see the rubber band.

Repeat the process on the other side. The pushrods are now glued and go have a soda, beer or favorite beverage of your choice. I go pet the dog, and play catch for a while. He is young so it takes about 15-20mins of exercise to get him worn out.

Come back and just cut the rubber band with a #11 blade. Remove the servo wheel and pull on the linkage. Grab it at both ends the clevis ad the servo wheel and try to pull it apart…it should be solid and this is a test to make sure your bond is good. Don’t go King Kong on me and break your model. Just test pull the linkages. It’s all done now we have to dial it perfectly. This is why we left the rudder off the model when we were hinging


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(in reply to Troy Newman)
       Post #: 153

RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered - 12/7/2007 9:23:03 AM   
Troy Newman


 

Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001
From: Goodyear, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		This one is long. I’ll break into 2 parts

Linkage work part #1

First remove the masking tape form the tips of the elevators so when you power up the servos you don’t break something.

Plug the servos back in to the RX and turn it on. The servo wheel screws are still missing from the servo wheels. This is good it will help us make adjustments easier.

Adjust the length of the control horns from the middle of the hinge to the center of the 2mm clevis pin (bolt) Make sure both sides are identical. Mine were set at 31mm. Match both side as absolutely close as you can. My servo wheel connection choice was a hole about 12mm out from the center of the servo wheel screw. This gives me a mechanical advantage of over 2.5 to 1. This gives the servo better power over the surface and minimizes any slop or wear in the servo. In a precision setup you never want 1 to 1. Not even on the pull-pull rudder, but we will discuss that later. For now think using the maximum servo resolution. Servo wheel 12mm and the control horn on the elevator is 31mm. These are just starting values and we may change them later. Taking your time now will mean matched up changes later. If you need to shorten the control horn length to less than 31mm to get more travel…then its easy just a turn two on both sides and they stay paired up. Making these measurements accurately is very important to how the model will fly and trim later. I like to do it one time and that is it. This is the reason I use the more expensive MK clevis and NMP DARE links. Once you do this work it will not need to be changed. Even changing out servos the linkage will not need to change. Some folks don’t mind putting in the work… That’s cool I prefer to fly it and not have to spend time in the shop trimming…and adjusting.

Back to it; the servo wheels were setup at the 90degs pint as close as we could get. For now ignore the elevator and if it is centered up on the stab tip. Instead look at this 90deg pushrod to servo arm again using the Days Inn card key tool. This time it needs to be spot on. Align the card key down the center of the pushrod and slide it up to get the center of the bolt in the DARE link to align with the center of the servo wheel screw. This is super important here also. The more it’s off the variation you are going to have to put in electronically in the TX to get the elevators moving together. If they are matched mechanically then the differences will be very small as you will see in a bit. Use subtrim to get the servo arm pushrod relationship just right. Small changes in subtrim make a difference so work hard to get it as close as you can.

Since the servo wheel screws are not installed its easy for the next task. Look at the elevator and its relationship to the stab tip. For now I want you to get one side adjusted perfectly to the tip. For adjustments just pop the servo wheel off and rotate the pushrod in the clevis. This will have to be whole turns at a time. For the first side get it as close to aligned as possible. Don’t freak out if its not dead on. We are going to match the other side to it. Right now we don’t know where the elevator trim is going to end up so aligned with the tip is good for this one side. Knowing that Dave Guerin designs a model that is really close here we know the eventual center or neutral point will be close to this tip location. Once you have the linkage adjusted for length to get the elevator centered up on one side you are ready to move to the other side. Install the servo wheel screw on the side you just finished. I turn off the radio so that tightening the servo wheel screw will not strip the gears in the servo. The 3421Sa servos have a small nylon gear train. If you really crank on them while they have power the gears will easily strip. So power them off and tighten the servo wheel screw.

Next elevator side. Dial in the pushrod to servo arm relationship to the 90degs again. Subtrim is the way to do this and ignore the elevator location to center for now. Get that 90degs right. If you screwed up in picking which side of the servo wheel to use and your sub trim is high values….then switch the servo wheel around and re-attach the DARE connector. I screwed mine up and had to do this. In the end one servo had zero subtrim and the other ended with a value of 6. This is a good and low value. Next is to adjust the length of the pushrod to get the elevator in the proper center or neutral location.

This process is the same as the first side….get it close to the tip as you can…but this si not the definitive reference. We want the two sides to match each other. If the tips are sanded just a little off or maybe a little extra heat on the covering can pull one tip down or up. These tips are small and can bend a little bit one way or another. So don’t trust the tip….We used it on one side as a reference. This time eye ball the surfaces of the two elevator halves from the rear. Align your eye with one surface on the original reference side. Use the first side as your reference and adjust the current working side to it. In my case it was up compared to the tip about 1/64th of an inch. This is OK. It doesn’t mean the stab is warped. It just means the tips could be sanded a little different. You likely will not feel it flying. Just make sure the elevators match perfectly. I learned this from Tony Frackowiak. The Mark One Eye Ball is awesome for setting this up. Make full turn adjustments at first to get it close. If you have to, remove the clevis pin bolt. And turn it over to get a ½ turn adjustment.

Note: the MK clevis doesn’t come with a nut for the bolt. So if you turn the clevis over the threaded side of the clevis will be on the head side of the bolt. This means tightening the bolt will not pull the clevis together. That is OK for now…We are going to put little 2mm hex nuts on these bolts later. Its more important to have precision in this setup now. ½ turn on a 2mm clevis is pretty small movement. This is why I use the 2mm over the 4-40 or 2-56. The 4-40 is heavier and not needed due to the titanium…and the 2mm is more threads per inch than the 2-56. This means finer adjustment.

Once you have these elevators all setup at the center position and the servo arm to pushrod relationship is all 90 degs shut the radio off and tighten the servo wheel screw in the second elevator servo.

Now is time to match the servos or rather the elevator surfaces as they move. The servos and linkages are setup the same and we need to make sure for any given stick movement the elevators will track together. Our reference of centered and matched at neutral elevator will be our basline.


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(in reply to Troy Newman)
       Post #: 154

RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered - 12/7/2007 10:00:51 AM   
Troy Newman


 

Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001
From: Goodyear, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Part 2

Elevator linkages continued


There are a couple of tools we can use or make work in this situation. One method is to extend the elevators out the back of the model about 10-12”. Years ago I made a set of tools for this task.

A clothes pin with a piece of metal rod works great. I put small square patches of 1/64” ply on the jaws of the pins to keep them from digging into the surface. Align the pins as close to the same spot on each elevator as you can. Bring the ends of the metal rods to the rear of the model and have them meet as close to the middle as possible. Reminder the radio needs to be turned on the servos plugged into the proper ports. JR 9303 setup we did made the Right elevator in the elevator slot and the left one goes into the channel 5 or Gear slot.

We don’t have the rudder installed yet but this you can use your eye ball for. Some folks will use tape and CF rods….This works too. But I use the metal and here is why. We know the surfaces are aligned by the Mark One Eye Ball. So when we attach the extender rods they should match up. Guess what they rarely do. Why is this? It could be the fact that the elevator on one side is sanded a little more rounded at the rear than the other…so the clothes pin doesn’t sit as good on and flat on one side as the other. Or it could be the clothes pins are not the exact same pivot points. It doesn’t matter we know our Mark One eye ball made them the same….so I will put a small bend in one metal rod up near the clothes pin. I put this small bend in to get the two rods to come almost dead on at the rear. If they are close enough to be within the diameter of the rods its good to go. You just need to see that offset distance stay the same as the servos move up and down full travel.
Now I want to use the maximum servo travel that I can. Setting it up this way means my D/R will be close to 100% so that I’m using the full travel of the servo and not losing resolution. Go into the Travel Adjust menu on your radio. Futaba calls this EPA or ATV. On the JR it’s called Travel or Travel adjust. On the 9303 You can run the values up to 150%...We don’t want this as we need to possibly adjust each side for end point. Since each servo is a little different and there is no way to get the linkages absolutely 1000% perfect this is why we use the travel adjust….to make them electronically perfect as we can.

Lets back up….If you didn’t spend the time doing the first parts of this step by setting up the 90deg relationship and the Mark One eye ball center then these Travel Adjust or ATV values will be way off to get the servos to track. We want them to be so close to the same value. I have found that if you do your linkages correct you can get it within just a couple of % points of each other for each end. This also means that the elevators will move at the same speed to those end points as well.

Ok back to the Travel adjust. We want some room to adjust a few % each way…we also don’t want the servos moving to their mechanical stops as this can damage servo gears or the control surface. I ran my Travel adjust up to 135% for each side of the elevator channel and the gear channel. By the way cool thing about the JR 9303 it renames the servos from elevator to R-elev and the Gear channel to L-elev. Both of these servos need to get the travel adjust setup to 135%. We match the surface travels up here in travel adjust to get the surfaces paired and mirror images through the travel. We want the % values to be close but they are not going to be the same very often. We want accuracy and here is where the computer radio helps us. Slowly move the elevator first to full up position. Watch the relationship of the pointers. Keep the same. Usually at the end one will have gotten a little ahead or behind the other. I always adjust the second elevator….in this case the Left elevator gets its adjustment to match the perfect 135% and 135% of the right side.

In the case of my model it needed 137% up on the left side to match the right side. Then it took 136% down elevator on the left side to match the right side.

This is really tight. When I move the elevator through its motion the extension sticks track perfectly with each other. If for example one side needs like 10% more travel in both directions…you can shorten the length of the surface control horn by say 1 turn and then go through this whole setup from the beginning. Your center will change and you need to start over to match things up on that side.

Please let me emphasize this fact. It will make the plane fly better if you get really picky during this step. IT will affect things and the plane will fly better if you take the time to do this the one time.


Special NOTE: If using old or used servos. The servo pots can get a little worn and it will affect the end point travel of the servo. So I recommend new servo for this install. If not new servo fresh rebuilds of the servos. Both JR and Futaba Servo centers can put new gears and pots in the servos for you. Its cheap at about $15-20 per servo and this will make your life easier in this task. Besides if you have a $100 servo it will act like new with a new pot and gears. If you can’t get it just perfect or the values seem to change every time you move the stick…then your servos are not as accurate as the higher priced servos. This is a case where I recommend the high precision servo. If your choice is a less precise servo this is where it will show up no doubt. Can a cheaper servo work…yes

There are some choices that are better than others. Again I pick the best servos for the task so we don’t have to mess with but this one time. This is tedious work and many folks get lazy at this step. With the D/R at 100% and setting the values for the travel to match here with the pointers….if you dial in say 80% dual rate or even 50% dual rate the surfaces are going to travel together. If the Travel adjust values are way off from each other or the sub trim is not set right…then when you switch your dual rates the servos will not move the same at 50% as they did at 100%. Mechanically sound means the D/R adjustments keeps everything paired up and perfect.


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(in reply to Troy Newman)
       Post #: 155

RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered - 12/7/2007 10:13:36 AM   
Troy Newman


 

Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001
From: Goodyear, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Part 2.5

Neat trick………………..

I have another little trick to check our work. Sometimes its 3am and looking at the little points is tough. They bounce a little as they move….

We left the rudder off the model for a reason. Here is why, take a small section of the pushrod tubing. Masking tape it to one side of the elevators. Because of the taper on the stabs and elevators it will have a gap on the opposing elevator. The photos below show the idea. Get it as straight and square to each side as possible. I left masking tape in the end that was not taped down to help it show up.

If the elevators are moving together 100% of the time…this gap will stay the same at all times. Again the gap is a result of the taper on the stab and the elevators. So the gap on mine was about 3/32” maybe 1/8” the photo shows the setup.

I moved the elevator stick up and down and watched this gap. If it stays the same the entire time then the elevator was hinged straight and the settings for ATV or travel adjust are set properly.


Mine by the way confirmed the proper setup. Now I can dial my D/R back to a flyable rate say 80% and it will stay tracking together. I don’t know what the values are for degrees of throw yet. I do know I’m likely close thanks to my ratio of servo arm to control horn length. My guess now is about 80% D/R will be about 15 degs of travel. That is not important now. What is important is that the travels are the same…and the total travel is not way too little or way too much for what will be needed to fly, snap, and spin the model.


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< Message edited by Troy Newman -- 12/8/2007 7:12:10 PM >

(in reply to Troy Newman)
       Post #: 156

RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered - 12/7/2007 3:45:41 PM   
randy109


 

Posts: 80
Joined: 7/10/2006
From: Manassas, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Anyone set a Focus Sport up for a single Elevator servo and/or an OS120AX yet? I just got my and opened the box. I plan on going with the OS120AX and single pitch servo route.

(in reply to Troy Newman)
       Post #: 157

RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered - 12/7/2007 6:35:10 PM   
Troy Newman


 

Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001
From: Goodyear, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Randy,

I decided to build it stock for now. Based on CG and other things I'm likely going to convert it to the DEPS setup. Its really easy to do and the fuse has only a couple formers back there and neither one will get in the way. Dave designed it around the servos in the tail and the YS and Hyde mount up front. I have found its better to trust the results of others than to totally re-invent the wheel all the time. Especially on a plane like this. I want to build it the way it was intended and evaluate just how good it really is. So far I'm very pleased with the way it has gone together.

If the model is tail heavy then it will get the DEPS before I fly it. I can stick the DEPS in the model in about 1 night maybe 2 if I have been flying all day long... On the DEPS a 9411SA would be a good choice here.

But if it balances out I think it will be fine. The 3421SA's are pretty good on the elevators. I have these in my Naruke Bipe. I've been happy with them, but just don't like the long setup process to get them dead on. For me the DEPS deal is a better solution. it takes me less time to setup and stays more accurate over time. As noted above if you change servos in the tail of the model. Then you need to do that all big process again. If the DEPS is installed just pop the servo in..both elevator stay synched up...and the only thing different could be a few clicks of elevator trim on the first flight with the new servo. The plane will still loop correctly because you never changed the relationship between the sides. Dual servos you are changing everything about the relations just just bolting another servo in place.

Example 2007 NATS. I was practicing a couple days before. Got done flying at near dark, and we were headed for the Texas Road house. Putting my Model in the car I bumped the elevator and stripped a gear in my single elevator servo. I replaced the servo that night. One trim flight the next day to set the elevator neutral trim position and the model flew exactly the same as it did the day before. basically in 10mins work and two passes of the flying field the model was repaired and flying the same. If that had been on the Naruke bipe, man it would have taken me an hour plus maybe two hours to get the servo replaced and the settings just right. Then I would have to fly it and make sure everything was tracking together.

I'm big on making the model easy to replace a part, change out a servo, drop in a new engine. Swap in a landing gear or the likes. I try to make it so that I can fix easily all the things that can go wrong....Don't bury a RX battery to where you can't get to it in a few minutes. Don't glue in an adjuster than could get broken off putting it in the car.

make things simple and easy to take apart and replace. For me the single servo on the DEPS is that way.

I'm putting it in the Naruke Bipe this winter.
I say a little thank you to the Ron Chidgeys' and Tony Frackowiaks' of the world every time I find something to use that works as well as the DEPS. If it had not been for seeing that on the plane Chidgey built and Tony Frackowiak had I would be still searching for a better system.

The fuse of the Focus is a perfect candidate however from what I'm seeing with the YS and the Hyde Mount up front the weight will do me good in the tail. We'll see. Cg is one of things I have not checked on the model. And we have a ton of rain coming for the weekend...so it won't fly this weekend. Maybe first of next week.

Troy Newman

< Message edited by Troy Newman -- 12/7/2007 7:58:40 PM >

(in reply to randy109)