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info help - 9/13/2007 2:35:19 AM   
vdubsport


 

Posts: 52
Joined: 2/27/2007
From: glendale, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		does anyone who drags with a 4wd car get rid of the front wd part and run skinies. if so can u show me some pics.
       Post #: 1

RE: info help - 9/13/2007 10:03:51 AM   
drevil



Posts: 1952
Joined: 2/8/2003
From: Dingmans Ferry, PA, USA
Status: offline 		If you're running a touring car in a bracket class I'd think the car would be much more consistent and quicker with the front wheel drive working.

_____________________________

Mike
R/C Truck News - http://www.clodzone.com

(in reply to vdubsport)
       Post #: 2

RE: info help - 9/14/2007 5:59:04 PM   
ac hauswald


 

Posts: 143
Joined: 3/13/2004
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: vdubsport

does anyone who drags with a 4wd car get rid of the front wd part and run skinies. if so can u show me some pics.


Hi vdubsport,

Not sure it will help, but we posted an image of our R1E-1 chassis to Our Models Gallery. It will give you a feel for the extent to which madness can take you in a conversion. That's whats nice about RC drag racing. Pretty much you are limited by your imagination on what to try. What works, well that's another thing altogether.

At one time we had Lunsford Ti struts replacing both FR and RR shock/spring sets. But we found the R1E didn't handle well at the top end in the speed trap, so we went back to a spring/shock set up front. That settle in the front end for us. We did install internal limiters on the shock shafts to lower the front end. A RC drag vehicle doesn't need much FR suspension travel. Also went to the lightest shock oil we could, so the FR shocks would extend fully under acceleration, transferring weight to the RR. FWIW. Each application will have its own issues to work out.

We did try converting 1/8 nitro buggy to 2WD/RWD early on. Didn't get past the testing stage for a variety of reasons. On that buggy, the FR diff was integral with mounting the suspension components. What we did was gut the FR diff and put the cases back together empty and hang all the suspension stuff off it. Sans of course the half-shafts to the FR hubs. We then locked the center diff with JB Weld, and of course did away with the FR drive shaft. Understand Tamiya has a REALLY think grease that will effectively lock a diff on an electric car. You may want to consider using that. JB Weld works, but is irreversible.

Hope this helps some. We haven't replied sooner because our knowledge of on-road 4WD conversion to drag racing is limited. But we didn't want you left hanging, so we're offering what we can.

Again, our recommendation is to run what you have now to establish a baseline. Then whatever changes you make, you can compare to the baseline to see if they helped or hindered performance.

//AC//
Team AHR43

_____________________________

Arnie Hauswald Racing 1943
RC Electric Drag Racing

(in reply to vdubsport)
       Post #: 3

RE: info help - 9/14/2007 10:36:54 PM   
snellemin



Posts: 738
Joined: 3/22/2007
From: Tomball, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Nice Rustler AC. I'll be making an extended rustler as well. Still trying to figure out the arm lenght issues.

_____________________________

check out www.Hamdrl.org
Snelle-RC, A123 Racer

(in reply to ac hauswald)
       Post #: 4

RE: info help - 9/14/2007 11:27:04 PM   
ac hauswald


 

Posts: 143
Joined: 3/13/2004
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: snellemin

Nice Rustler AC. I'll be making an extended rustler as well. Still trying to figure out the arm lenght issues.


Hi snellemin,

Thanks. Not sure what arm length issues you are considering. FWIW. We narrowed the rear tread width 2" - as much as we could w/o fabricating new RR arms. We purchased TRX Bandit FR swing arms - they're shorter than the Rustler. But, we never installed them. That would have required purchasing shorter Lunsford Ti turnbuckles. We couldn't justify the expense. We had reached a point in development of the chassis that we thought it would not benefit our E.T. So we shelved it. Maybe on the R1E-1?

Oh! As long as we're posting here, we went to 3-hole pistons on the front shocks - the most TRX furnishes OEM - to aid in F-R weight transfer. We considered drilling them out, but again, we felt we had pretty much reached the limit of what we wanted to do with the conversion. Again, maybe on the R1E-1?

//AC//
Team AHR43

_____________________________

Arnie Hauswald Racing 1943
RC Electric Drag Racing

(in reply to snellemin)
       Post #: 5

RE: info help - 9/15/2007 12:04:05 AM   
snellemin



Posts: 738
Joined: 3/22/2007
From: Tomball, TX, USA
Status: offline 		The Arms are too long for my taste and I still can't decide what size of foam tires to use in the rear. So far I have found the Jato driveshaft modification to work the best. As for the front lowering, I like the FLM shock tower the best. It has multiple shock locations giving you the opportunity to make the front shocks more progressive while still being very low to the ground.

_____________________________

check out www.Hamdrl.org
Snelle-RC, A123 Racer

(in reply to ac hauswald)
       Post #: 6

RE: info help - 9/15/2007 1:01:08 AM   
ac hauswald


 

Posts: 143
Joined: 3/13/2004
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: snellemin

The Arms are too long for my taste and I still can't decide what size of foam tires to use in the rear. So far I have found the Jato driveshaft modification to work the best. As for the front lowering, I like the FLM shock tower the best. It has multiple shock locations giving you the opportunity to make the front shocks more progressive while still being very low to the ground.


Hi snellemin,

The R1E-1 RR arms may look long because we narrowed the Jaco/Assc RR tires from their OEM width of 1 7/8" to 1 5/16" by cutting away the inside of the tire/wheel. On the R1E we were carry WAY too much RR tire width. That slowed us, and probably cost us 0.1sec E.T. and kept us out of that "primo" 2.9sec E.T. range so desirable for a bracket car. We sat at 3.1sec with the RR tires we had. By going narrower with the R1E-1 config, we should break the 3.0sec "barrier", even with the old lower RPM (22K actual) Chameleon2 Pro we're going to for the R1E-1. Figger we'll fit the motor with a torque sleeve and go up one tooth on the pinion to get us to 30-32mph. Pretty good. The best the old R1E could manage consistently was 29-31mph.

See, vdubsport, there's lots of variables to work with in this hobby/sport of RC drag racing. Any one of which can cost you performance or victory...

//AC//
Team AHR43

_____________________________

Arnie Hauswald Racing 1943
RC Electric Drag Racing

(in reply to snellemin)
       Post #: 7

RE: info help - 9/15/2007 1:16:44 AM   
snellemin



Posts: 738
Joined: 3/22/2007
From: Tomball, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Still not going the brushless route AC? But since you are going the brushed route, maybe you could get the A123 Turbo module now. Save some battery weight.

_____________________________

check out www.Hamdrl.org
Snelle-RC, A123 Racer

(in reply to ac hauswald)
       Post #: 8

RE: info help - 9/15/2007 1:52:03 AM   
ac hauswald


 

Posts: 143
Joined: 3/13/2004
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: snellemin

Still not going the brushless route AC? But since you are going the brushed route, maybe you could get the A123 Turbo module now. Save some battery weight.


Gotta ask the hard questions, don't ya? j/k Yes and No is the hard answer.

Brushed with the R1E-1 and the R3E-1. The R3E-1 will be the MidWest RC Drag Racing Series ProStock variant off the R3E we posted to our gallery - sort of. 3800 2s1p LiMn battery for both the R1E-1 and the R3E-1 - except for where the rules disallow LiPo / LiMn. GO for the SAMDRL drag racing rules. NO GO for IMDRA and Midwest (for now, anyway). Shucks, trying to sort our way the the myriad rules of the MSO (Major Sanctioning Organizations) is bizzare.

R2E-1, the TFE rail for 2008, is another challenge. Initially, we have to use up the $$$.00 we've got in brushed / old / technology before we can justify the move to BL. That's the word from the CFO (Chief Financial Officer, e.g., the wife). Yeah, we'll PROBABLY go BL on the R2E-1 like June or so 2008. Depends on how the TFE record stands in IMDRA, how we are running at that time and where we are in the points chase.

vdubsport, we really haven't hi-jacked your post. RC drag racing just has a way of spiraling upward and taking on a life of its own. You'll understand once you get immersed in it. Please, if there is anything else you need, ask. Team AHR43 is here to help.

//AC//
Team AHR43

_____________________________

Arnie Hauswald Racing 1943
RC Electric Drag Racing

(in reply to snellemin)
       Post #: 9

RE: info help - 9/15/2007 2:08:15 AM   
snellemin



Posts: 738
Joined: 3/22/2007
From: Tomball, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Yea, it does look like this thread was hyjacked. Didn't mean too if it looks that way.

_____________________________

check out www.Hamdrl.org
Snelle-RC, A123 Racer

(in reply to ac hauswald)
       Post #: 10

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