Wine Country Flyer

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Has anyone seen or had anything to do with this model? It's from Nitro Models. I'm wondering if it's any good or not.
Thanks in advance to any and all responceses.
John

Wine Country Flyer

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There's also a blue one. Sure hope they are made well.

nitro wing

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If you get one,let us know how it goes.It looks interesting.

av8r4aa

My Feedback: (82)

Looked at the numbers of this plane. Unless it has a
super high lift wing, it might be a dog. The wing span is long 65 inches
but look at the wing area . It is UNDER 500 sq. in.

Basically it is a 7 lb. quickie 500. That is almost twice the weight
of a comparable quickie. I think it will have the glide distance of
a streamlined brickstove. Maybe it is a good plane.

With that low of a wing area a small 32 or 40 engine should power it.
They recommend a much larger engine to fly it.

Very nice looking plane but I think its overweight and under wing.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Theres lots of good flying warbirds around with a 65 inch span and weigh alot more than 7 pounds.
It is a scale plane and not meant for Harrier flight
Some weird design actually fly surprisingly well.I'd give it a try.

jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

I have an AT6 from Nitro Models and I am pretty happy with the quality. It seems fairly robust for the price. Flys like a dream. I would go for it.

Wine Country Flyer

My Feedback: (5)

Well, It showed up on my door the other day.So far it looks good. Packed very well, no damage. Fiberglass fuse, with vertical stabilizer built in. Fiberglass pants and cowl. Quality looks good, although I will have to make some major changes. Push rod guide tubes are installed, but in a way that things will bind. I'll have to cut 'em loose and re-do 'em. Shouldn't be too hard. Fuse is big, plenty of room to get my hands in there. Almost no wrinkles in the covering. The painted fiberglass parts don't match the covering very well, but they'll pass the 40/40 test. The part I will have trouble with is getting the cowl centered on the engine shaft. The cowl fits the fuse nice and snug, and slides to an indented line on the fuse. So, getting the engine mounted to come out exactly centered will be a hard one for me to get perfect. But, I'll see how I can do. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. The instruction manual is kinda sparce, but anyone who has a few ARFs under their belt will have no problem. But it's not a beginners ARF. The hardware? Well, I will use some and toss some. It'll be a month or two before a test flight, but I'll post the outcome. And anything major I run into durring assembly.
John http://www.nitroplanes.com/redbraqat506.html

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

Screw the engine to the mount, then tack glue the mount to the firewall where you think it should go. If the cowl doesn't fit, pop the mount off, move it to a new spot and try again.

You may have to cut some clearance holes in the cowl to get it over the engine, but they will pretty much be in the right places.

Jim

Wine Country Flyer

My Feedback: (5)

That's too simple. No wonder I couldn't think of something like that. Thank you, I'll do that. Today I did make a "tool" to center the engine on the cowl. Just a couple round pieces of wood glued together with a shaft size hole in the center. The small one just fits the hole in the cowl. With the engine shaft sticking through to cowl, put the "tool" on it with the small part stuck into the cowl, it will center it. Thanks again for the idea about tack glueing the mount to the firewall. That will work. It will be awhile getting this in the air, though. Now that I've had a little time to get stared, I'm finding lots of little things out of wack. Tail feathers aren't mounting up straight, so I have to work on that. The attachment method is a great idea if all was straight. They use two carbon fiber rods through the fuse & into the stabs. Great idea, but nothing is straight. So, I'm tweaking things here and there to make it better, but I can't get it perfectly straight, level & square, if ya know what I mean. AT least it's not a patern plane. So, if it doesn't do manuvers perfectly straight & square, that will be OK. I probably couldn't tell any way. I'm just a sport flyer. Have been pylon racing Q 500 (OS 40 LA) and trainer the last couple years, but that's just at club level for fun. Will report more problems as they show up. I knew there was a reason that a plane with fiberglass fuse, pants & cowl was so cheap !!
John

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

I like your methods.Check everything and align before flying.
Instead of, slap it together and complain later

Wine Country Flyer

My Feedback: (5)

Oh well, like I said, the price was right, I think for what ya get. It's kinda a fun project trying to make everything right. I realy think ya can't expect much for $125, with fiberglass parts and all. Now if I can just make it fly half way decent, I'll be happy.
John

Wine Country Flyer

My Feedback: (5)

One nice thing about fiberglass is you can heat it and bend it a little. Just trial and error, but I straightened out the tail end that way. Held it in a bind the way I wanted it to end up, and heated it with the heat gun 'till I could feel it give a little. Then let it cool. It's not perfect, but it's a lot closer than it was.
John

Wine Country Flyer

My Feedback: (5)

Well, things went faster than I thought they would. The "Maiden Flight" happened today. And it went very well. The fuse bottom has a very large flat section under the wing, so it gets plenty of lift. Saito .82 w/12x6 prop. It didn't require as much speed as I thought it would for take off. Was kinda windy today, so it's hard to say how stable it is. Not like it's on rails, but not even twitchy either. And it slowed down real nice for landing. Over all a nice flyer. Not a real speed burner with the 12x6, but I'll try some other props for a little more speed. Plus, the Saito isn't broken in, yet. I think it is a lousy design, though. It's really a low wing plane with plug in wings. Therefore the wing bolts are right down on the bottom of the fuse and hard to get at. Plus, ya have to remove the canopy to get at the wing bolts !! And the canopy is very fragile. One flight today (tank of fuel, & about 7 or 8 touch & goes) and it had a crack in the back, three out of five mounting holes were bigger than when I started, at the end. So, I lined the bottom inside edge of it with fiberglass & ca. And I'll put yellow ny-rod in the fuse to receive the mounting screws. That should fix that. I had a little too much elevator dialed in, so it would snap out at the top of a loop. Not a surprise. It would even roll out of an outside loop with too much down elev. Soooooooo-now I have to make a cockpit floor with seats so I can put "Popeye & Olive" in there as pilot and co-pilot. Yep-I know- He's a Sailor Man, but he's learning to fly so he can impress Olive a little more. And when the 90 degree adapter shows up from Saito I'll be able to mount the cowl. With stock muffler ya have to cut a big hole in the side. With 90 degree adapter & flex pipe with pressure fitting, it will go right out the bottom which has to be cut out any way for air circulation. All in all it's a good looking plane and flys well. Everyone at the field had to come over ane have a look with many questions. Ya don't see one of these very often. Like never before at our field. I think for the price-ya can't beat it.
John