quote:

ORIGINAL: Starmer

Volkert,
I had my ESM gear modified by Down and Locked http://www.downandlocked.com/.  I've been very happy.  Reliable and they have great customer service.

Jason

Al,
Nice video!  It really is an art to get everything right.  Al, I must admit you were my inspiration for converting mine to electric. I used your same set up with 8S. I was considering switching to 10 cells. I have enough power for scale flight but I'm swinging a 22X10 prop to get enough watts since my plane is so heavy at 19 pounds. Pretty high Amps at 65 with bursts to 80.

I had a fun day at the field yesterday. Its still very touchy on the elevator though. I have 15mm of throw.  Manual calls for 25mm. I tried expo too, then backed off to none. Plane balanced at 135mm, manual says 140mm. I think I will try 130mm and see how it likes it. Where are you balanced?  Perhaps I'm still a touch tail heavy still. Plane looks very nice in the air and flies pretty rock solid once you get everything trimed and set. Pictures below.

And another some more

I have the gear doors pulled off from previous flights. Wet and muddy field with the monsoon season here in Thailand. I've had a few little mishaps but nothing I can't repair.

The one nice thing I like about bashing these ARFs is that you can do a color scheme that no one has. I haven't seen anyone do the "Pips" Priller bird in a large scale. A real head turner.

One more thing. Feedback for anyone building this plane or any other ESM for that matter. I tore or damaged the gear plate/ribs of this plane 3 times. OK, Ok, my landings or in two cases ..aborted Take offs into soft muddy grass were not pretty but muddy grass tore them loose. The balsa for the leading edge (forward part of the landing gear bay) is real spongy and soft. The ply actually separated and pulled loose twice. I glued the leading edge back with CA to harden it and then CA'd and reinforced everything (ribs, plate etc) with milled glass Epoxy and some FG. No more problems. The greater surface area with the epoxy fillets around the joints did the trick. I'd definitely reinforce and beef up this area if I build another ESM plane.

For Flaps I've tried 15 degrees and none for Take Off. None really required. For landing I use 58-60 degrees. No real pitch change and it slows the plane down fine.

Cheers,

Jason

quote:

ORIGINAL: Redback

You electric flyers should not forget that every electron you carry adds 9.10938188 X 10(-31) to the mass of the plane

Think of what that does to the CG when they start moving from the battery to the motor!


Terry

Kahlog,
True, True.  I here ya!....But I think they are using some ironic gas usage humor...

Volkert,
Thanks for the compliment.  I'll post some of my cockpit details below from my Build Thread over on RCSB.  If you want more you can go to RCSB and check out the whole Bash build.  You can Register (free) to view, but if you want to post more than 5 times then you will need to subscibe for $20.  Well worth it IMHO.  

My RCSB thread:

Quote:
I'm using a DBalsa cockpit kit and I'll need to determine how it will fit with the servo tray located in the fuse.  This first part will go quick since I've been building on it for a little while.  First was cutting a hole for the cockpit kit.  A dremmel cutoff wheel was indispensible for this.  I then had to figure out the placement for the cockpit deck.  I had to get it as low as I could without interferring with the servo tray.  I decided in a little higher than scale location for ease of installation without removing too much.  After some trial and error it fit OK.  I threw a 1/6 scale Dragon pilot to check for depth.  Pic below.  I later trimmed the back of the seat down to look more scale and installed the rest of the kit.  Quite a few things were not very scale with the kit, but it was a starting place to add touches.  It's no INZPAN kit but it works for an ARF and adds quite a bit.  I wish INZPAN made a 1/6th scale kit.  (I now know that I Fly Tallies.com offers cockpit parts for a great looking cockpit.
  http://www.iflytailies.com/store/instruments/1-6-scale-warbirds/.)

Here's the pilot test fit.  The height looks about right.  I later removed some stuffing from his chute so he would sit better in the seat. Here's a picture of the man himself "Pips" Priller.  Remember, I cut the seat back down in later.  It was too high.  It's not the most scale cockpit in the world, but for a Bash in an ARF I was fairly happy with the outcome.

Here's the rest of the cockpit put together.  I cut hand holds out and sunk the REVI sight into the dash.  The kit directions had it mounted to the front so it stuck out, but I think the embeded position looks more scale.

quote:

ORIGINAL: kahloq

The 190 does NOT have a longer snout then the bearcat. Not by a long shot. The 190A is a very short front end. A 4 pound motor would work well up front on the 190. I put in a saito 180 and everything related to it in front of the cowl.....ie...throttle servo, onboard glow, and even the RX battery and STILL added at least 12 oz or more of dead weight lead.

quote:

ORIGINAL: kahloq

Mine is the built up wing. The actual wing itself doesnt really change the CG muchwhether its composite or built up. The composite just is heavier....though there is maybe like a 5-10mm difference in CG. Ive got mine balanced at 133mm if I recall