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RE: ......... - 3/9/2011 3:23 AM   
Tinkman



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From: Central Coast, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Philly,
  I got ahold of a digital scale that measures mg. Turns out one of the CF blades was 1090mg and the other was 1170mg! So I sanded the trailing edge of the heavy one till they were exactly the same. MUCH BETTER!
The only problem was I got a little froggy and crashed into the Bridgeport in the middle of a piro. Of course I got it on video. I'll post it after its done uploading.
  Helis, it's all about the ups and downs!

Joaquin

Here you go!




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RE: ......... - 3/9/2011 3:55 AM   
phillyD



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From: Tortola , VIRGIN ISLANDS (BRITISH)
Status: offline 		Sir Mr. Tink
I do ask your humble apology    I lied to you well half way this is on my night heli http://www.helidirect.com/kbdd-596mm-neon-yellow-tail-rotor-blades-for-450-p-13436.hdx and I'm not putting what is on my day heli http://www.helidirect.com/esky-plastic-tail-blades-yellow-esky-belt-cpcpxking-v2v4-p-2052.hdx  Now you nearly got it fixed now you'll get vibes from somewhere else

That's a mean shop you got there, nice vid..not the crash. Hope you didn't damage much

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RE: ......... - 3/9/2011 4:50 AM   
Tinkman



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Status: offline 		Nice tail blades! Didn't damage much. Just both mains.

Joaquin


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RE: ......... - 3/9/2011 3:36 PM   
Disney1



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Status: offline 		Tinkman I use a Gram Scale with .01 resolution It was less than $20.
Really helps when when weighing blades to have the extra accruacy.
Ron.


EDIT a Miligram scale is great. Much morte accurate than mine.




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RE: ......... - 3/13/2011 7:27 PM   
biker dude


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Guys,

Well at long last I managed to get the new tail assembly on and man is it smooth.

I got it on Thurs but while I was putting it together a screw snapped that holds the gear box assembly to the tail boom. The guys at Heli direct were great and crossed shipped the part back to me which I received on Sat. I just took it out for it's first flight and after a few minutes of tweaking it flies great.

Also I found the true reason for my power drop while flying. One of the wires had come loose from the ESC but was staying in place because of the shrink wrap. So when it would loose contact the ESC would kick in and shut things down. I have to get better at my soldering.
I'm glad I've stuck with this bird because I am really learning a lot. Once I move up to a larger Heli I'll know enough to keep it flying smoothly and safely. I'm starting to get a squeaking from some where now so I'm going to replace the main shaft bearings and see if that goes the trick.
Lastly, I'd like to start replacing my cheapo main rotor head a piece at a time and was wondering what would make the biggest difference first.
Thanks for all your help,
BD


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RE: ......... - 3/13/2011 8:05 PM   
Disney1



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Status: offline 		Afternoon BD:
There is a bit of a problem doing what you suggest.
First it will cost twice as much, second you cannot mix and match brands,
and most importantly you generally cannot mix and match plastic and CNC on the rotor head core.
The Blade Grips and Rotor head are using a different type of feathering shaft and bearing arrangement.
What head are you moving to?
A lot are using the CNC heli head and really like it. Only $73
Silver  http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet/the-1239/ESky-Belt-CP-CNC/Detail
Blue    http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet/the-1158/ESky-Belt-CP-CNC/Detail


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RE: ......... - 3/13/2011 8:15 PM   
Tinkman



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Status: offline 		Hey Biker,
  I agree with Disney. You pretty much have to buy the whole assy. at once. I am using the HDX 450 V3 head, but I found another thread on this forum where people are buying the HK450's. They're sold by Hobby King and are really cheap. I don't have one yet, but it's my understanding that they are very high quality. It's hard to believe for the insanely low price they're asking, but people are swearing by them. You can buy a whole bare bones cnc kit for less than the cost of a head. In fact, some folks are buying the kit just to get the head and tail assys.
  Look into it.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=12390



Joaquin


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RE: ......... - 3/13/2011 9:17 PM   
biker dude


 

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Status: offline 		Wow! very nice...but I'm affraid if I get another kit in the mail my wife will kill me. lol

I did however book mark the page and will keep an eye on that one.

Alas, what I really need to do is stop spending and save for a better TX RX and servos.

This is so addicting it's like crack!


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RE: ......... - 3/13/2011 9:23 PM   
Disney1



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Status: offline 		WOW!!!!
Holy Cow only $37 for the entier Bare Bones kit!!!
I can afford to by that and toss the unused parts by sending them to someone for free.

BD:  Buy the kit and get the other parts out of site and use the Rotor head and tail gear box.
         For the price how can you beat it., It is less than half the price of the CHC heli head only and this has a tail gear box too.


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RE: ......... - 3/13/2011 9:50 PM   
Tinkman



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Status: offline 		No kidding. I'm with both of you. How do I justify getting another 450. But then, how do I justify NOT getting one at that price!?

Joaquin


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RE: ......... - 3/13/2011 10:54 PM   
Disney1



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Status: offline 		For that price you could afford to throw the stuff you cannot use in the trash.



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RE: ......... - 3/13/2011 10:57 PM   
Tinkman



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Status: offline 		OK, so I think I finally got as much vibration out of the camera mount as possible. It took 5 iterations, but I think for as light and cheap as these little cameras are, this is just about as good as its going to get. There just isn't enough mass in the camera or the mount to counter-act all of the vibrations. I tried a heavier mount thinking it would help, but the harmonics made it worse.
  So anyway, here's a 3 min. flight with the key fob camera. My blades still need to be tracked, but it's enough to get the point.

Joaquin



Attachments
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Click for fullsize


< Message edited by Tinkman -- 3/13/2011 11:46 PM >


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RE: ......... - 3/13/2011 11:53 PM   
Disney1



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Status: offline 		Tinkman very nice, smooth.

You should sell them with teh cvamera and servo as a kit.




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RE: ......... - 3/14/2011 1:47 AM   
Tinkman



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Status: offline 		Not a bad idea Disney.
  At this point though I'm just not sure I want to invest in that much stock for an idea that may or may not go anywhere. For now I figure anyone with a key cam and Belt CP will already have most of the stuff laying around. They're not going to want to shell out $50.00 for a camera mount when they already have the 20.00 cam and a spare 9.00 servo sitting in their toolbox. I really want to keep the price down for anyone who's interested. If this suddenly takes off though, I'd certainly invest in the overhead.
  I currently have hangers configured for the Belt CP and HK 450.

Joaquin


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RE: ......... - 3/14/2011 2:03 AM   
phillyD



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Status: offline 		That's not nice. I check everyday nothing-no post I turn my eyes for one second now I gotta catch up.
Will edit this post soon

Wowsers Sir Tink
That is the epoch of vibration free. Well done Sir. I gotta see what you did to the mount and do mine when I get it. Really nice,,sweet

< Message edited by phillyD -- 3/14/2011 2:25 AM >

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RE: ......... - 3/14/2011 11:23 PM   
biker dude


 

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Status: offline 		You guys are funny...but...Hmmm...

Whats the diff between mode 1 and mode 2 on TXs ?


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RE: ......... - 3/15/2011 12:37 AM   
phillyD



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Status: offline 		Mode 1 throttle on the right stick(european) Mode 2 what we use throttle on the left

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RE: ......... - 3/15/2011 1:16 AM   
Tinkman



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Status: offline 		Thank you Philly,
  It took several tries to get it like that. I'll post a photo.
I went with an aluminum hanger and mounting blocks for the shoulder screw and servo, and kept the camera mount nylon.

Joaquin

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RE: ......... - 3/19/2011 11:34 PM   
biker dude


 

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Status: offline 		Holy Mackeral...what is up wit the screws that are in with the Align tail sets? I had another screw break in the same way as before.

Now stop me if I'm wrong, but if I was over torquing the screw wouldn't the aluminum strip out before the screw breaks?
This is the second time that the exact same thing has happened.

The bad thing is that it breaks off inside the tail assembly. There is nothing I can do but send the part back again.

Do you guys think that they will give me grief about this? I've never really dealt with them over parts issues.





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RE: ......... - 3/20/2011 12:06 AM   
Disney1



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Status: offline 		Hey BD:
It is a new on for me too. The screws must be very brittle.
Do you have a Local Hobby shop near you?
If so replace the screws on the new oone before you build it.


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RE: ......... - 3/20/2011 1:40 AM   
phillyD



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Status: offline 		Yea Biker
You might be over torquing, and folks do what Disney said; also let the loctite do its job. Some aluminium assemblies seems to be harder than the align screws. I have had that. Lucky me though the head comes off and leave a piece for me to pinch with a small visegrip, and take 15 minutes to get it out. Post a pic if you still have an example, so we might see a solution to get the screw out. I've had one left in the flybar cage rod

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RE: ......... - 3/20/2011 2:09 AM   
biker dude


 

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Status: offline 		Yeah...there's not going to be any getting this screw out. The screws are indeed very brittle. The only way to get it out would be to drill it and as small as it is it would be impossible to say the least.

I went with the sport gear box instead of the SE and the screws that attach it to the tail boom are really long. I liked the way the sport was built from the pictures I thought it might be a better one. Plus it was a little cheaper. (DOH)! my mistake. I'm either going to try and exchange it for the
HS1259-84 - Trex450SE and pay the difference, or have them refund my money and see if I can find the HS1259-84 - Trex450SE locally. 

I'm really getting frustrated with the whole tail rotor thing.

Aside from the screw breaking and the gear box not being able to be tightened the heli was flying great. The thing that bugs me is that I never really got one flight out of it without the second screw breaking.  I had the gear box on, used loctite, didn't over tighten and things seemed to be alright until I noticed that the rotor blades were cocked to one side. The first time I thought it was just a loose screw so I just snugged them up, or so I thought. Then I noticed it again and thats when I realized what had happened.

Anyways thats whats up.

So back to the drawing board, wait several more days and try again.


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RE: ......... - 3/20/2011 2:49 AM   
biker dude


 

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Status: offline 		I tried to get some pics but I'm not sure they will do much good.


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Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
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RE: ......... - 3/20/2011 12:53 PM   
Disney1



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Status: offline 		BD that is a clean shear. It is defanatly teh screw that is the problem.
I would use a wire bit in the Dremel and dril part way into teh screw and the use a mini screw driver tappd into teh hole to remove teh screw.
Just buy a chaep set for a coupel of dollars at walgreens or CVS.


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RE: ......... - 3/20/2011 7:14 PM   
biker dude


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Dis,
Thanks for the suggestion but I found the more expensive gear box at my LHS and am going to just send the other one back.


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       Post #: 6050

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