RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........  
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RE: ........ - 6/28/2008 12:47:59 PM   
disney1



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From: Orlando, FL, USA
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Morning:
Don't forget that Michael of US Hobby Supply has the tool and gears in stock. The tool is $4.50
http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=360&osCsid=99f56c50b57bc36bce1a920d939b283d
The Gear set is $7.50
http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_38&products_id=470&osCsid=99f56c50b57bc36bce1a920d939b283d
US Hobby Supply is a gret place to get your parts. Superb customer service, quick shipping, great prices.

Have A Great Day
R N Sr.


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RE: ........ - 6/28/2008 2:45:49 PM   
billmay



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Speaking of main gears, if you're tired of breaking teeth off of the stock Belt main gear try the much higher quality nylon gear made for the Heli-Max MX400. The included one way bearing needs to be pushed downward a little to fit the Belt but, other than that, it is a drop in replacement (I didn't even need to readjust my motor position).

Bill

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RE: ....... - 6/28/2008 3:14:08 PM   
USHobbySupply


 

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Thanks Disney1!

Also, the Blade400 gear is a great replacement for the BeltCP main gear. It comes wither with or without the bearing installed.

As for how often to replace the one-way bearing. Most end up having to re-use their old one when they thrash a gear. If you just stripped the plastic teeth off the gear, you have to remove the one way bearing so that you can re-use it in a new gear. That way the gear is less expensive because you dont have to buy a new bearing for one that is not really broken.

Cheers,
Michael

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RE: ....... - 6/29/2008 2:51:11 AM   
Kelownan


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: USHobbySupply

As for how often to replace the one-way bearing. Most end up having to re-use their old one when they thrash a gear.


Thats good to know. I can only get the full gearset locally

quote:

ORIGINAL: tommis85

As for the rudder....I had a similar problem. I'm not sure how much you know about the heli, obviously, but first of all check that the gyro is in "reverse" mode - something I overlooked and wondered why it swung around wildly. If that's not it then the second thing I had to do with mine was adjust the rear rotor till it was providing enough force to keep the heli almost straight - after that I fine tuned it with the rudder trims. In the manual they say that the plate in the rear rotor has to be about a third in to provide enough force....I just moved the tail servo along the boom till I got the right angle on the blades - in saying that, I only had to move it about 3-5mm to get the right angle so it's not much at all.



Thanks Tommis It allways seems to be that i can get it tuned just right, Wait a bit and then it has to be altered again

The flights usually last a bout 10mins and then end in a crash. Im just hoping a HH gyro would help me put more concentration into flying.

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RE: ....... - 6/29/2008 3:59:29 AM   
tommis85


 

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Kelownan that's really unfortunate that you crash like that! I'd hate to crash the Belt CP that much, or any helicopter that has as much gear on it as the Belt! What sort of flying do you do - like what sort of level are you at? I'm at the stage where about 2 months ago I took my training gear off and am now flying circuits that have no 3D flying in them. I've only just started to do nose in landings and nose in flight in general...that's pretty much where I'm at bro.

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RE: ....... - 6/29/2008 4:07:23 AM   
tommis85


 

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Guys, I was wondering if you all could give me some advice on how best to mount the aerial. So far, I know that you should not have it anywhere near CF items like the boom support struts and, you should keep it away from other electronic items and you should fly the heli in a way so it's aerial arrangement faces you broadside for maximum signal capture etc etc.

I have looked on the net and it looks like that the yellow Belt CP's come with a little plastic tube that the aerial wire is fed through and then a short 5-10cm length hangs out the end of it. My white Belt CP never came with one but it does have the mounts for the tube on the skids.

I have temporarily fitted a wooden skewer and have threaded the lead onto it. It then spans across to the tail fin/skid. Is it OK to shorten the lead and run it straight from the receiver to the tail fin or maybe the horizontal stabilizer?

Is this OK? Please note that I still have to zip tie a couple items down properly like that anti-jamming dooberwhackie....it done it's first test flight after complete reconstruction today



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RE: ....... - 6/29/2008 4:21:02 AM   
jmann71


 

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DO NOT CUT THE ANTENNA LEAD. This will greatly reduce your radio range, causing all kinds of glits. the receivers are tuned to a specific length of antenna.

Jason

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what the?? did you see that! must of been the wind.

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RE: ....... - 6/29/2008 4:43:08 AM   
tommis85


 

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Jason,

Ok man yeh I was suspicious of that too because they give you quite a long line with the Belt CP so there's obviously a specific reason for it. What do you think of the setup in the pictures?

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RE: ....... - 6/29/2008 4:43:49 AM   
RCman33


 

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I posted this in the 22e forum, but i want to see your opinions too.....

I see that the cp has a lot of + reviews. Is it easier to fly than the 22e. I am willing to spend some money, i just want to know if its worth it.

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RE: ....... - 6/29/2008 4:57:14 AM   
phillyD


 

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Nice job Tommis
One of the guys here with nitro heli has his antennae just like that except the crossing of the wires at the skids. I've read a lot of the glitching these crossed antennae wires allegedely cause. I cannot understand it since the antenna wire is in insulation. I have found that the end of the antenna shielding covers the actual wire inside. So I have trimmed the sheilding to expose one mm of the actual wire. Hope you can see the exposed wire. I tied a knot in my other heli. Don't think I had any problems. Just in case in the belt I ran the wires without a cross over and held it with tape. Dunno if you can see how much wire I've exposed and I moved the troublesome ESC to the other side of the heli away fro the antenna. Pics to follow. See if you can get some electrical shielded wire cable of right size pull out he wires and use as a straw.
Oh educate me about the word doberwhackie-pretty cool word.
Cheers

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RE: ....... - 6/29/2008 5:04:27 AM   
tommis85


 

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RCman33...I guess everyone's experiences are different but I definitely praise the flight qualities of the Belt CP. Although it's so cheap it's definitely a big step up in helicopters from the 22. The Belt CP flies so well that it's actually a bit hard to go back to the highly strung 22E!

I've pretty much left the 22E now as the Belt CP flies so well that you seriously don't see a need to pour money into the 22 anymore - I personally think that you probably won't look back once you've started to fly a very well tuned Belt CP!

When you hover they appear to hang by a string.

When in forward flight it feels like the thing is on rails....a mono rail lol!

The main points for the Belt CP I guess are that it's cheap, flies just as well as more expensive heli (from a novice point of view that is) and their is a sea of spare parts on ebay for them. Also, due to it's size and weight...it flies nice and sturdy and doesn't care much about light breezes although I'm sure that a pro can fly it in just about any wind - something that would be stupid to do with a 22E.

I'd suggest that you type Belt CP into Youtube and have a look as that is what won me over. If a heli can do all that 3D stuff without flying apart like a hand grenade then it must be a good helicopter!

Thumbs up from me

Tom

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RE: ....... - 6/29/2008 5:05:04 AM   
jmann71


 

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tommis
i like the way you ran the lead, gonna change mine in the morning. i currently have it wrapped around the cross tubes, but you should definitely get better reception with yours.
Jason

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what the?? did you see that! must of been the wind.

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