Posts: 18254
Joined: 1/13/2005 From: Macon,
GA, USA Status: offline
Well it seems if it flew properly and you changed it and it now does not fly well it was correct to begin with. I do not see why you changed it if it was flying well to begin with.
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Posts: 232
Joined: 6/22/2008 From: Loganville, GA, USA Status: offline
I oly asked because I couldn't tell which wire went to which servo and I didn't want to cut all the ties to figure it out. I ended up taking all the electronics out sice I'll most likely be getting a different ESC tomorrow.
Posts: 18254
Joined: 1/13/2005 From: Macon,
GA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: creteus
I oly asked because I couldn't tell which wire went to which servo and I didn't want to cut all the ties to figure it out. I ended up taking all the electronics out sice I'll most likely be getting a different ESC tomorrow.
I have the Hobbywing 30 amp programmable ESC.
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Posts: 749
Joined: 11/19/2007 From: Pottstown, PA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: creteus
Quick question. Now it may sound crazy. When I got the Belt when you pushed up on the right stick and had the fly bar front to back nothing happened. But when you rotated the flybar to left to right one would be up and one would be down. To me this was incorrect for a foward stick. So I switched the servo wires around to where when I hit the stick foward and the flybar was front to back the paddle in the back would point down. seems correct to me. after a test flight it seems to be all haywire now. Is it supose to be the other way? It flew better before.
You may be confusing your terminology, but both will be pointing down toward the front of the heli in the situation you're describing (which will push the nose down as it should). Since both paddles are attached to the same solid flybar there is no other way it could work. Instead of concentrating on what the paddles are doing just watch what the swashplate is doing. When you move the right cyclic stick up/down or left/right, the swashplate should tilt forward/backward or left/right. In fact, it's good procedure to do that as a preflight check before every liftoff.
Posts: 749
Joined: 11/19/2007 From: Pottstown, PA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: creteus
....I know elevator it front to back on the FP helicopters and it was left to right from the factory on the Belt. I didn't know if it may be different with the CP helicopters.
Simply not true. The cyclic function on the FP and CP helis is identical. The only difference between the two is the left stick on the CP heli changes the pitch of blades along with changing the speed of the rotors.
Posts: 232
Joined: 6/22/2008 From: Loganville, GA, USA Status: offline
i worked it out. Met a guy down here and went to the heli shop today. Heres a picture after todays paint. Everythings factory still. For the folks who got stuck with the turd brown fins and paddles head down to wally world and get some krylon. Temporary fix for the colors.
Posts: 123
Joined: 1/16/2008 From: BARTLETT,
TN, USA Status: offline
I've had my Telebee head lock gyro for some time, and I still cannot get it setup correctly in the head lock mode with my factory xmitter. Are there any steps to set this up with the Esky transmitter? When I do switch to head lock, the tail rotors go to the extreme left, so much that the servo is popping. Any advice would be appreciated.
Posts: 749
Joined: 11/19/2007 From: Pottstown, PA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: creteus
i worked it out. Met a guy down here and went to the heli shop today. Heres a picture after todays paint. Everythings factory still. For the folks who got stuck with the turd brown fins and paddles head down to wally world and get some krylon. Temporary fix for the colors.
Matt
Glad you got things straightened out. The heli looks great!
Posts: 621
Joined: 11/21/2007 From: Orlando,
FL, USA Status: offline
Afternoon everyone: I thought you fliers might be interested to see what I am working on and to know all the aggrivations I have gone through. First beware when buying a scale fuselage that is a generic fit, the one pictured below came in six vaccume formed peices, each one had to be fitted and fussed with to get it to all glue together, I had to make a mount to make the body fit to the frame, and also add stiffining ribs to get it to stay in shape. It also is too low on the frame for a scale rotor head height. I am happy to get it to fit and clear everything. Possably it would fit a HBKII better, but the info said it was for a 450 sized heil. So be careful, I truly got what I paid for. Cheap price and lots of hassel. Not worth the savings. However the experience has been fun. The next scale will made for the Belt CP not a generic. And it will be Fiberglass not lexan. R N Sr
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R/C Helicopters are dangerous to your wealth. The only stupid question is the one you forgot to ask.
Posts: 621
Joined: 11/21/2007 From: Orlando,
FL, USA Status: offline
There is probably 50 or more hours in getting to this point. The T-tail I fabricated from flat 3/16' bass wood as the parts supplied were a flat cardboard kind of like very thin masonite, about 1/16 inch thick and very heavy. I did the first coat of white this afternoon, now to get out the steel wool and start the smoothing and filling of all the seams. lots of hours of paint and sand. The picture below is of the paint scheme I am going to losely duplicate. Not as detailed as the Belt CP body is too small for all the details. I want the larger one for christmas. Guess I better hit the Powar Ball first.
R N Sr
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R/C Helicopters are dangerous to your wealth. The only stupid question is the one you forgot to ask.
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Esky Helicopters >> RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........ 
RE: ... - 
I do not see why you changed it if it was flying well to begin with.
N Sr 