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Posts: 4
Joined: 10/20/2003 From: Blaine,
WA, USA Status: offline
Hi Goose, I will be starting to build the TF GS P-51B this summer. I have contacted Leo about his cowl and we are waiting to see how the fit goes with your kit. The cowl was made for the AFF/ARC and we are not sure how it will fit the kit. Leo also posted some drawings showing the rear turtledeck formers that he designed that gives the "B" the curve the turtledeck has as it goes to the horizontal stabilizer. It would be a lot of work to do on the ARF/ARC but might be easy when building a kit. Let us know how the cowl fits.
Great information and a really good job of posting your work. Thanks
Posts: 647
Joined: 2/9/2003 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
Hi Bill...
Good to hear about your 51-B, good luck with that, and thanks for your comments and interest.
Leo's cowl should be here in the next week or so and I know you are not the only one looking to see how it fits the kit... the pics will be up as I progress.
In the meantime I have made a little progress...
Pic 1; The tailwheel mockup with a lick of paint for my club meeting.
Pic 2; I think I am too fussy, as the cockpit kit I bought is a little 'vague' so I began scratchbuilding my own. Armour plate behind the pilot seat showing balsa frame sandwiched between styrene sheet.
Pic 3; Pilot buddy had a bad hip, so I built him a new one. Now he can sit in the pilots seat without issue.
Pic4; Once the anesthetic wore off I weighed him and decided he is to go under the knife again.
Pic 5; A pile a 1/4" holes in strategic places and I shaved a whole 10g off him. If you have a pilot like this and decide to save some weight like this, dont bother. Body part replacement is my only recommendation.
Pic 6; Servo rail dry fit with two rear most formers installed. Snakes run for rudder pull-pull and elevator. Tailwheel plate dry fit.
Pic 7; And with tailwheel installed.
Progress is slow but moving, next I have to figure out the aluminium plate insert for the rudder horn and of course Leo's cowl when it arrives...
Cheers!
Goose
< Message edited by v6goose -- 2/3/2008 1:39:14 AM >
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"Oh yeah, Kiwi''s can fly..." http://www.goosesworld.com
Posts: 647
Joined: 2/9/2003 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
Evening all...
Thought I would drop in with an update as its been a few days.
I have been working on the rudder pull-pull system and the theory here is that I will embed an aluminium control horn into the leading edge of the rudder and splice the tailwheel steering wires into the rudder wires as they pass. Pictures explain better than words.
Pic 1; Cutting a slot to accept the control horn as accurately as possible. I need better tools or more design ahead of time.
Pic 2; Control horn is drawn out onto 1/16th aluminium plate.
Pic 3; Control horn cut out and slot finished.
Pic 4; The slot is a 'U' shape when viewed from the top of the rudder.
Pic 5; The control horn is a tight press fit into the rudder.
Pic 6; Scalloping the connection points isnt very scale but I'm hoping you wont see it with covering on the rudder.
Pic 7; Pull-pull wire holes drilled.
Pic 8; A 40mm section of snake is removed to show the idea for splicing the tailwheel wires into the rudder wires. The passing wire is looped through the brass tube and continues to the rudder.
Pic 9; Support blocks are long enough to support the length of the removed section and secure the snake to the wall.
Pic 10; The steering wire goes through the hole and has a knot in it. The tube is crimped either side of the hole.
Pic 11; Both sides done minus the support blocks as the green chromate is drying on them. Adjustment is at both the steering servo and steering arm on the retract.
I am still figuring this out as I go, but so far so good.
Thanks for watching...
Goose
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"Oh yeah, Kiwi''s can fly..." http://www.goosesworld.com
Posts: 647
Joined: 2/9/2003 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
Hi again...
As luck would have it, Leo's (Spychalla) cowl came in tonight.
The pictures really dont do it justice, as it is easily the most beautiful piece of glasswork I have owned, thanks Leo.
Now the fun part of figuring out how to make it fit.
Pic 1; The glasswork is superbly accurate and makes my building look like crap. Weighing in at 298g, you can appreciate the attention to detail.
Pic 2; Given Leo has glasses a ply bulkhead into the end of the cowl, making the firewall flush is my first job... one that required a LOT of sanding.
Pic 3; The good news for kit builders is that it fits the same as the ARC. It is within 1mm on each side and the top, obviously the chin block will be added and shaped to fit exactly.
Pic 4; Terrible picture, sorry, but you get the idea of the bulkhead to firewall connection decision.
I would be interested in your thoughts as to how I should connect this to the firewall. Glass?, Screws?, Both? some other way? Let me know.
If you are waiting to see if this will work for you kit, dont wait any longer. I know there are a couple of you watching for this very reason.
Progress on the engine/exhaust installation will be a little slow as I have to cut and reweld Kelvin's exhaust to cater for the prop extension, but I will keep it coming.
Thanks for watching...
Goose
< Message edited by v6goose -- 2/7/2008 1:38:04 AM >
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"Oh yeah, Kiwi''s can fly..." http://www.goosesworld.com
Posts: 531
Joined: 1/9/2003 From: Watertown,
WI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: v6goose .....I would be interested in your thoughts as to how I should connect this to the firewall. Glass?, Screws?, Both? some other way? Let me know.....
Goose
Goose, The intension is for you to just bond it on permanently with epoxy and then fill and smooth the gap. That is how it is designed. Now getting your KELEO exhaust in and out may change things, so you will have to figure that out, however the generous lower hatch will make engine installation and removal easy. Remember to drill your firewall engine mounting holes ahead of time, unless you plan to use a very long drill bit.
Posts: 647
Joined: 2/9/2003 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
Hi Leo...
Thats what I thought.
There does seem to be couple of differences with the ARC versus the kit in the two rectangular openings each side of the cowl, I'm not sure what they are for as I havent seen the firewall arrangement on the ARC, I'm sure you can enlighten me.
[Edit] I just looked through your thread again and see the difference, as I assumed there is a tang extending forward to fill those gaps. Easy fix.
I will of course install the engine and Keleo ahead of bonding the cowl in place, I dont plan on taking the exhaust out so may extend the slot for the headers back to get it over the pipes, but as usual, this will be figured out as I go.
Thanks a lot.
Goose
< Message edited by v6goose -- 2/7/2008 4:12:56 PM >
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"Oh yeah, Kiwi''s can fly..." http://www.goosesworld.com
Posts: 647
Joined: 2/9/2003 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
Hi all...
Subject for today... Cooling.
One of the design decisions at the outset of this project is to (as much as possible) enclose the engine in the cowl, and with Leo's cowl being as awesome as it is, thats an easy decision.
However cooling is now a concern. I intended to route a small flexible pipe from the firewall to the radiator outlet in the rear of the aircraft but there simply wasn't room, the cockpit fills that ever shrinking void along with all the other 'stuff' that needs to go in there.
Scapped... v2 of this idea following much discussion about how to do this will follow shortly... Back to good old AutoCAD for some 3D design on the fly and I came up with this plan. There is a 10x98mm gap under the fuel tank that determines the maximum outlet hole, a surface area of 980 sq mm. Obviously that is not enough to be 3 times the inlet area so I decided to build a suction fan into the ducting that will direct air from directly behind the engine head, through the fan and out the radiator door.
The first yellow section in the duct is a 60mm, 12v computer chip fan and is a drop fit in the duct (pic 3). Its rated at 10cfm and I am guessing this will be enough, tests will confirm later.
The CAD drawing is showing the duct, upside down and from the front of the aircraft. The wide flat end at the right is the size of hole in the firewall. There are quite a number of shape transitions to route through the fuselage.
To the left of the 3D model is the 2D duct exploded out flat which I printed and temporarily glued to light cardboard allowing me to build the duct to see if it works/fits.
Middle pic shows the mockup in the fuselage, its a little rough but you get the idea. Next the ducting will be made in balsa and just like the mockup, the entire center section will be removable.
Madness? Yes, probably, but aren't we all in here?
Cheers
Goose
< Message edited by v6goose -- 2/11/2008 4:38:19 AM >
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"Oh yeah, Kiwi''s can fly..." http://www.goosesworld.com
Posts: 531
Joined: 1/9/2003 From: Watertown,
WI, USA Status: offline
Goose, your brilliant! A fan. What an idea. I like it a lot. But maybe skip the computer fan and stick a small electric turbine in there. The motor control would plug right into the RX and you could run it off a Li-Po. The fuse space directly behind the head is empty. A person could create a funnel shaped duct right around the back of the head and into a round pipe containing the turbine. A 90 degree turn and you could blast it out the bottom of the fuse. Things to think about.
Check your engine position relative to the hatch. I think that you will find it necessary to cut not only for the spark plug, but also for the top front fins of the cylinder head. No way around it. Leo
Posts: 647
Joined: 2/9/2003 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
Hi Leo...
Thanks but I can't take all the credit, I read someone was doing this somewhere in RCU although the duct madness is mine!
You sparked a good design discussion with my buddy with your turbine idea. Good idea, thanks.
Not sure about the ARC but the kit has no space behind the engine head (inverted) as the fuel tank plate and space is there, hence the 10x98mm duct I squeezed into the only available space under the tank plate.
I'm going to borrow my buddies turbine to redesign the fan part of the ducting (thanks Scott!). Fortunately its a little smaller diameter as I forgot about the choke and throttle servo. He also had a great idea of hooking the fan ESC to a transmitter mix with throttle. We will also be testing all of this with a data logger when the time comes so keep an eye out for some real world information about all these goodies.
As far as power is concerned, the plan is to use a Smartfly powerexpander sport plus with a 2 cell A123 battery pack to distribute power to all the onboard systems. There is quite a few things to power electrically on this project including 10 servos, 3 Lado actuators, landing light, cooling fan etc.
I did do a quick check of the engine position in the cowl and figured the sparkplug cap would have to exit the cowl but didnt check accurately enough for the cooling fins. Still the idea was to cut as little as possible which is looking good.
Thanks for your comments, ideas and encouragement...
Goose
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"Oh yeah, Kiwi''s can fly..." http://www.goosesworld.com
Posts: 531
Joined: 1/9/2003 From: Watertown,
WI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: v6goose Hi Leo...
.....Not sure about the ARC but the kit has no space behind the engine head (inverted) as the fuel tank plate and space is there, hence the 10x98mm duct I squeezed into the only available space under the tank plate.....
Goose
I'm sorry Goose. I forget that I don't follow instructions. I scrapped that fuel tank plate and mounted the tank closer to the CG. This is not a glow plane! The designers at TF get stuck in the glow world too often and think they need to stick that tank as close to the engine as possible. The diaphram pump on the Walbro carb takes care of all that. You can stick the tank anywhere. So I like it on the CG so that my airplane flies with the same trim when full or empty. I hate an airplane that starts climbing as you fly it.
Pictures are of my ARF that is going to get a "Face Lift" when I get time. I just stuck a "Spychalla" cowl on the front quickly to get a look at the engine position. The engine position you see is with the 1.25" Sierra Giant Scale Extension that I've been running for a year. It's going to be a nice retro-fit. Leo
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RE: Another Top Flite Giant P51-D rolls onto the prod... - 
