Posts: 17
Joined: 8/8/2007 From: Edwardsville,
IL, USA Status: offline
New to large scale modeling and would like to see examples of interior layout. Looking for clean, efficient layout and wiring ideas. Also any other ideas to make the overall aircraft more functional. Shots of "Bling" are welcome. I currently have a WH 28% Edge 540 V2 but ideas from any aircraft would be appreciated. Looking for detail on:
Fuel Tank/Plumbing Ignition Box Smoke Tank/Plumbing Overflow Vents Smoke Pump Battery/Regulator Receiver Switch and Wiring Top Hatch Fastners and Quick Release Windshield/Cockpit Section Mounting and Detail
Posts: 384
Joined: 11/30/2003 From: Tempe, AZ, USA Status: offline
quote:
New to large scale modeling and would like to see examples of interior layout. Looking for clean, efficient layout and wiring ideas. Also any other ideas to make the overall aircraft more functional. Shots of "Bling" are welcome. I currently have a WH 28% Edge 540 V2 but ideas from any aircraft would be appreciated. Looking for detail on:
Fuel Tank/Plumbing Ignition Box Smoke Tank/Plumbing Overflow Vents Smoke Pump Battery/Regulator Receiver Switch and Wiring Top Hatch Fastners and Quick Release Windshield/Cockpit Section Mounting and Detail
Here are a couple pics of my setup in the 33% WH Extra 260. I like to keep things very simple.
Fuel Tank/Plumbing - I have a 2-line system. Some prefer 2-line, some prefer 3-line. Using clamps on all connections, I've not had a problem with air leaks with the 2-line system. Ignition Box - I mounted my ignition according to 3W's instructions (4 grommets and 4 screws through the ignition's mounting plate). Smoke Tank - Don't have one. Overflow vent - I drilled a hole through the landing gear plate and used a Slim Line fitting (for gas). I like the fitting because there isn't a piece of fuel tubing hanging out the bottom of the plane. (Anal, I know). I use a Slim Line plug to plug the vent line when storing the plane; no fumes that way. Smoke pump - No pump. Battery/Regulator - I use two NiMH batteries (FAUP 1950) on the Rx and one FAUP 1950 on the ignition. Each battery is plugged into it's own switch. No regulators. For balance, the Rx batteries are mounted back behind the cockpit area. My ignition battery is mounted up by the engine. Receiver - I use a single JR PCM. I started with an FM to make sure there were no glitches and then switched to the PCM. Going PCM is simply personal preference. I plan to switch to 2.4 GHz at some point. Switch/Wiring - I use heavy duty JR switches with the integrated charge ports. I use 22 gauge (Cermark, JR, or Hitec) extensions. For the ailerons, I used the Double-Links from MPI (http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-3.html) since I have two servos per wing half. They're listed about 2/3 down the Web page. I like them because you can secure them, and they keep the wiring arrangement very clean. I use shrink tubing on all connections. Top Hatch Fastners and Quick Release - For securing the hatch, I drilled holes through the fuse that are just big enough for small diameter glow fuel tubing. The tubing is a little longer than the width of the fuselage. If you look close, you can see them sticking out past the side of the fuse. Tightening the screws (4-40) squashes the tubing, which fills the diameter of the drilled-through holes and keeps the screws from backing out due to vibration. Windshield/Cockpit Section Mounting and Detail - I'm not big on using screws to secure canopies. I use RC56 glue because it holds well and is water clean-up. I bought a dashboard but ended up not putting it in. I don't have a pilot either. I will get a pilot at some point. I always use epoxy to secure pilots and dashboards. Servos - I know you didn't ask, but I used Hitec 5955 servos everywhere except throttle. I have only about 70 flights on the plane, but so far I really like them. Choke - Another one you didn't ask about, but .... I don't have a choke servo. I can get to my choke from outside the plane and so just flip it on until the engine pops and then release the choke to start. Kill switch - Another one you didn't ask about, but .... I use a SmartFly optical kill switch. I have it set up on a switch on my Tx. It has performed flawlessly. Some people believe kill switches are absolutely needed, and some believe they're a waste of money and nothing more than a marketing ploy. I feel more comfortable having one.
A couple general disclaimers given so many RCU threads turn into arguments, this product is better than that product, my plane is better than your plane, etc. - 1) I'm not affiliated with any of the companies whose products I mentioned; 2) I'm not endorsing any of the products I use or make any claims that they are better than competitors'; 3) Configuration aspects such as using two Rx batteries or a kill switch are just my personal choices; ask people why they use the setups they do and than decide which you feel the most comfortable with; 4) Using 5955 servos everywhere is simply a personal choice; there are less expensive alternatives.
As can be seen from the pic of the plane, I don't have any bling.
Hope the info helps. Best of luck with your new plane.
Posts: 17
Joined: 8/8/2007 From: Edwardsville,
IL, USA Status: offline
Dan,
Thanks for the reply. I was wondering how long it would take to get a response. This was my first inquiry on RCU. I have been flying helicopters for the last 15 years and would have had dozens of hits on a heli chat board by now. Thanks for the photos and narrative. This was exactly what I was looking for. You have a beautiful model with great attention to detail. Don't sell yourself short on the bling. That polished landing gear did not go unnoticed!
I purchased my aircraft as a package deal RTF on RCU and am generally pleased. I am quickly learning the strengths and weaknesses of the design and setup. Your input has provided insight in some areas and confirmed my ideas on others.
My plane currently has a 3 line fuel setup. The tank does not empty completely and I am considering re-rigging the clunk line. I think that I might try the two line system out. I was considering modifying my overflow vents for the fuel and smoke tank to exactly the hardware you are using. This is much cleaner than my current hole in the bottom with fuel line sticking out. I didn't think about the ability to plug the line to keep the gas smell out of mama's minivan!
I am using a single big fromeco pack and regulator with a single switch (I think it's an MPI, it has 3 LED'S next to the charge port). I figured that the single setup has worked reliably on high end helicopters for years so why switch.
I have been using a Spektrum DX7 since they came out on my helicopters. The system works flawlessly. It is liberating if you go to contests. Get one, you will love it. Went to the IRCHA event in Muncie again this year. 712 registered pilots, all but around 100 were using Spektrum with no frequency control. No issues during the 5 day event!
I like your solution for hatch/canopy fastners. I still would like to see some of the quick release options.
My canopy is in need of some serious improvement. Are you using the RC56 between the lexan and the ultracote or are you cutting the covering away at the glue joint?? I would be happy with a windshield that was totally black, maybe with a carbon fiber weave look instead of the clear/tint. I have no desire for a pilot or cockpit detail.
I have Hitec 5965's on the Ailerons. This is my first experience with Hitec and I really like them. The biggest advantage that I see is the ability to use the servo programmer. I borrowed a programmer and really enjoyed the setup. I am using a single channel to drive the ailerons and everything is totally symmetric with correct geometry and throw. I have 8611a's on the elevator and rudder and kind of wish I had the Hitec for the programmability. My rudder servo is constantly chattering. I think that if I had the Hitec I could increase the deadband one unit and the issue would go away.
Posts: 384
Joined: 11/30/2003 From: Tempe, AZ, USA Status: offline
quote:
You have a beautiful model with great attention to detail. Don't sell yourself short on the bling. That polished landing gear did not go unnoticed!
Thanks. Though the scheme I ended up doing is very conservative compared to many planes anymore, I like how it turned out. One time my wife said my design seems a little dull. I told her I like to think of it as "classic."
Polishing the landing gear did take a while. Started out with a couple different courseness levels of steel wool and then finished it with a couple different grits of wet/dry sandpaper. Prior to the maiden flight, I ended up swapping the original gear with the gear from a Carden 35% Edge, so I "got to" polish a second set. Cleaning it up now-and-then with aluminum polish keeps it shining.
quote:
I was considering modifying my overflow vents for the fuel and smoke tank to exactly the hardware you are using. This is much cleaner than my current hole in the bottom with fuel line sticking out. I didn't think about the ability to plug the line to keep the gas smell out of mama's minivan!
If you end up sticking with the fuel line hanging out the bottom, you can always just use a nail or screw to plug the vent line after flying. Also, Great Planes makes aluminum plugs for glow fuel line, though I'm not sure if they're big enough for whatever fuel line you're using.
quote:
I have been using a Spektrum DX7 since they came out on my helicopters. The system works flawlessly. It is liberating if you go to contests. Get one, you will love it.
I'm definitely going to go the 2.4GHz route at some point. There have been days at my field where 5 of us are on the same frequency. You do a lot of sitting around waiting for your turn.
quote:
Are you using the RC56 between the lexan and the ultracote or are you cutting the covering away at the glue joint??
I use it between the canopy and ultracote. I just make sure the covering is ironed down really well. In the event I need to remove the canopy for some reason, it'll take the covering with the canopy but the balsa beneath will still be in good shape. Cutting away the covering may provide a stronger bond, but you'll likely take off pieces of balsa with the canopy should you have to remove the canopy.
Posts: 11537
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
It takes forever to upload a picture from where I'm at. Take a look at the 35% Sukhoi and 28% Sukhette build threads. There's a bunch of high resolution pictures in both. Also look in the Edge v-2 thread for some that will suit your plane.
_____________________________
If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Posts: 17
Joined: 8/8/2007 From: Edwardsville,
IL, USA Status: offline
Great pictures guys. That 41% Extra is clean!
Henna, I see you are using Thunder Power Lipo power. Is that for the ignition, the radio or both? Also under what load, if any are you checking your batteries at the field. What is your "stop fly" voltage?
Does anyone run one battery pack for both the radio and the ignition or is the standard two?
Posts: 384
Joined: 11/30/2003 From: Tempe, AZ, USA Status: offline
quote:
Whats the purpose of looping the fuel line around the tank? It looks like the tank vent.
Yes, it's the vent line. It's so fuel doesn't run out the vent line when you stand the plane on its nose or when doing downlines in flight. On my plane, I don't get any fuel out the vent line if doing IMAC manuevers. If doing something a little more violent like Lomcevaks, I'll get some dribble down the bottom of the plane from the vent.
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Post pics of your inside layout - 
