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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pylon Universe - RC Pylon Racing >> QM-40 Racing >> Miss candace recommendations
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Miss candace recommendations - 10/8/2007 10:40:02 PM   
ecoliburger


 

Posts: 180
Joined: 7/11/2002
From: Fairfield, CA, USA
Status: offline 		So I bought the miss candace off fleabay, paid 450 think I got a decent deal. What would you guys recommend for servos and battery and anything else that would be helpful. I already have a Nelson q40, would a small 750mah battery be ok? What size push rods for the tail? Tank size? Control throws? CG? Can I run the nelson rich on the first flight to slow it down a little?
Thanks
I will post some pictures when I get it.
       Post #: 1

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/9/2007 12:50:29 AM   
Ed Smith


 

Posts: 2834
Joined: 12/29/2001
From: Brantford, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Is this the kit or already built? Have you built a Q40 before? There is a procedure for buildng the Candace which, if followed, makes it reasonably easy.

I ask these questions before we have to embark on lengthy explanations.

Ed S

(in reply to ecoliburger)
       Post #: 2

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/9/2007 2:34:40 AM   
ecoliburger


 

Posts: 180
Joined: 7/11/2002
From: Fairfield, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Already built, never built or flown an q40. Motor mount is already installed.
heres a picture.



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       Post #: 3

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/9/2007 12:22:29 PM   
Super Splatter



Posts: 395
Joined: 3/21/2006
From: , MN, USA
Status: offline 		mmm... yummie

I use 3121 JR's and the digital 3421 on the eleavator. I use a 225 hitec on the throttle cutoff.

I use .125 carbon fiber tube and 2/56 rod inserted inside with CA for the rods running to the back. I support the rods half way back with a bracket of some sort.

But I'm sure other opinions will follow ..

yes you can run the engine a little rich for your first flights to slow it down, not too much, but it will help.

Isn't that a candace in your avator Daven?

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       Post #: 4

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/9/2007 5:59:42 PM   
Ed Smith


 

Posts: 2834
Joined: 12/29/2001
From: Brantford, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		If this is an unmodified Candace then the elevator horn is internal. There is a possibility you will have to cut into the rear end of the fuselage to install the pushrod, if not already installed.

From the picture it looks as if the rudder horn is on the left side of the rudder. This is a bad position. The rudder horn is best placed on the right side. The vertical stab is molded with the fuselage. The rudder hinge is the fuselage skin. The left side of the rudder skin is cut. This makes the rudder skin/hinge very stiff. Left rudder is hardly ever needed. It is much easier if the rudder push rod can pull on the rudder than push it. If it is a push situation the push rod may bend with very little rudder movement.

For a full installation desription go here:-

www.rcpro.org

Scroll to "Forums, then "Building" then "Q-40 servo tray installation"

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       Post #: 5

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/9/2007 6:16:55 PM   
garys


 

Posts: 755
Joined: 1/31/2002
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I've been flying a Candace since Phoenix in Feb and really like it. Not sure what brand radio equipment you use, but I'd use digitals on elevator and ailerons. I use Futaba 9650's for primary controls on most of my racers, with Futaba 3102's on rudder and throttle. I don't worry about "pushing" for right rudder, after all we "push" for up elevator, don't we? But I don't tend to use the small pushrods either, and never use them on a Q40 elevator. I usually use 3/16" carbon rods on Q40's, although my current Candace does have 1/8" on the rudder, and I haven't had any issues, even when giving full right rudder to help save it from bad air in a heat. Just make sure your pushrods don't have any kinks or bends in them and you should be fine with the rudder horn on the left side.

_____________________________

GS

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       Post #: 6

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/9/2007 9:13:42 PM   
ecoliburger


 

Posts: 180
Joined: 7/11/2002
From: Fairfield, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the replies so far. I am using Dx7 but will use fut servos. What about battery size?

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       Post #: 7

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/9/2007 9:44:52 PM   
garys


 

Posts: 755
Joined: 1/31/2002
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I've usually been using four cell 720mah NiMH's, although I've also used five cell 720 packs as well. Either will work, and you should be really close to minimum weight.

_____________________________

GS

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       Post #: 8

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/13/2007 11:23:28 PM   
ecoliburger


 

Posts: 180
Joined: 7/11/2002
From: Fairfield, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Got it today looks great! The hinges are really stiff, what do you do to loosen them up? Really appreciate it if someone will post or send me pictures of how you mounted the ail servo and the servos in the fuse oh and the fuel cut off used.
Thanks




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       Post #: 9

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/14/2007 12:42:31 PM   
Ed Smith


 

Posts: 2834
Joined: 12/29/2001
From: Brantford, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		From my previous post.

For a full installation desription go here:-

www.rcpro.org

Scroll to "Forums, then "Building" then "Q-40 servo tray installation"

Ed S

(in reply to ecoliburger)
       Post #: 10

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/14/2007 12:54:00 PM   
Ed Smith


 

Posts: 2834
Joined: 12/29/2001
From: Brantford, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		With the tank on the CG run the feed line through a tube glued to the fuselage. A short wire from the servo pulls the line into the tube and suts off the fuel. This saves the long wire into the fireweall, and the fuel line winding in and out of the engine compartment. See picture. Ignore the tank position, old technology.

The wing servo picture speaks for itself.

Ed S

Attachments
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< Message edited by Ed Smith -- 10/14/2007 12:59:16 PM >

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       Post #: 11

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/14/2007 1:52:15 PM   
Ed Smith


 

Posts: 2834
Joined: 12/29/2001
From: Brantford, ON, CANADA
Status: offline
quote:

Really appreciate it if someone will post or send me pictures of how you mounted the ail servo


Here is the full article for mounting the aileron servo.


With Q40 airplanes Certain things are desirable, stiff control surfaces, to a point, being one of them. The last thing we want is flutter which will pull an airplane apart in no time. Hence the stiff hinges you are now experiencing. There are two things that create stiff control surfaces. The hinge is the skin of the layup. The pivot point of the surface is actually on the top of the skin. This means that the torque rod has to swing around that point. So with a 1/8 dia torque rod it is approximately 3/32 off centre of the actual pivot point of the control surface. Therefore only a small movement is possible before it binds. This is OK for Q40 as we do not need a lot of movement.

The picture shows my servo installation. The servo is a JR 9011 with 60 oz/in of torque. The NMPRA requires 40 oz/in of torque as a minimum. This is OK to move the control surfaces but maybe not enough to allow the servo to centre. We do not use "Standard" servos. We use small, powerful (expensive) servos. Because I build my own wings there is enough material to support/install a servo mounting plate flush with the top of the wing. With a composite wing however there is no material in the centre section. So a mounting plate of at least 1/8 ply will have to be mounted on top of the skin. Or as Duane described, lay the servos on their sides. I cannot offer pictures of this installation as I do not use it.The clevises in the picture are approximately 3/4" above the top of the skin. If you have to cut through the bottom skin be carerful, the belly pan is not very deep. The topmost part of the servos in the fuselage will have to be at least 1" below the saddle at the same point as the aileron horns to ensure clearance. In my servo tray installation article I showed three servos in a line. Again, small (expensive) servos. If you are using standard servos maybe two in a line and one across (shutoff) will get the tray down deeper in the fuselage.

The Miss Candace is designed and produced specifically for Q40 racing. We do not want huge gaps at the hinge line. The hinge line is cut at an angle to allow the bottom of the control surface to slide under the wing skin in down movement and to not leave a big gap in the up position. If you are intending to paint the airplane be careful you do not stick the whole lot together.

Whatever servo installation you use I would suggest you do it before the firewall installation so you can look through the nose and see what is happening.

Ed S



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       Post #: 12

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/14/2007 4:06:48 PM   
ecoliburger


 

Posts: 180
Joined: 7/11/2002
From: Fairfield, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for some reason I couldnt get the link to the ail article to work.

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       Post #: 13

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/14/2007 5:33:51 PM   
js3



Posts: 1142
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: Arvada, CO, USA
Status: offline 		Ecoliburger,

I'm relieved it got there ok. I was worried about damage. Would you say the way I boxed everything up was adequate or overkill?

Thanks, and I hope you enjoy it!

_____________________________

John
I feel a lot more like I do now than I did earlier!

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       Post #: 14

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/15/2007 4:08:32 AM   
Randy Smith


 

Posts: 133
Joined: 1/3/2002
From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
Status: offline 		In case you are wondering, balance your finished Candace at 3.5 inches back from the leading edge measured at the center of the wing. Note, with a swept back leading edge, the c of g measurement will be different if you measure 3.5 inches somewhere along the span.

Randy

(in reply to js3)
       Post #: 15

RE: Miss candace recommendations - 10/15/2007 6:00:02 PM   
ecoliburger